On 6/15/2016 at 2:30 PM, technic_addict said:

I agree, great job Didumos. Would be really nice if at some point clear instructions of these changes were made.

Maybe when the next shipment of the sets occurs, and more have access to it. Would really love to see the changes in instruction form for box 1, so we can figure out which pieces are needed and where.

Thanks!

The least I will do is deliver an LXF-file of Box 1 showing all the differences, but that will be after I finish buidling. I'm also rearranging most axle connections to reduce friction.

Edited June 16, 20168 yr by Didumos69

  On 6/12/2016 at 11:02 AM, CopMike said:

I'll just join the choir of praise for your knowledge and work here guys with the modifications! I'm off to Brickworld Chicago now and hope to pick up a copy of the Porsche. Then I'll have to learn to read & speak "Technic" and go through this awesome thread (and order parts because my Technic collection sucks ;-)!)!

Welcome in the Technic world Mike

  On 6/15/2016 at 7:28 AM, Didumos69 said:

It's a bit of a one-man-show in this thread lately. So I'm sorry to bother you again, but I'm utterly excited about how I got the gearbox to work properly. It operates smooth (backlash proof), more pleasant (no upper silicon bands), much lighter (less friction) and you don't need to pull the paddles to the extreme :sweet: .

No need to apologize, we love one-man-shows

Seriously, keep the mods coming. I need to read this entire forum and implement the mods.

Adjustable front ride height is something I which can be added pretty easily I think.

This evening I made an LDD-file and some renders showing the changes I made to the drive train axle scheme to reduce friction.

  On 6/11/2016 at 3:01 PM, nerdsforprez said:

..... I see a couple things that can add very minute, but still important, unnecessary places of friction......

I followed nerdsforprez' pointers and used a different axle and axle connector scheme right from the start. Up until now my drivetrain operates without problems. Of course there is friction, but nothing drastic. I have put the wheels on the chassis (finished Box 1) and have been able to push the car in all gears without any problems. I even thought of gearing up the engine, but let's not get too enthousiastic yet.

  On 6/11/2016 at 3:01 PM, nerdsforprez said:

Why not change the axles from 4L (w/pin), 3L, 4L (with pin) to 5L (w/pin), 4L, 5L (w/pin) respectively followed by a 2L connector (they would not touch the 13L gray liftarms.

I decided to leave the connectors behind the diff completely out. Even when using 2L connectors, the gears at the back - the ones that needed to be swapped to get the 1-2-3-4 sequence right - might get squeezed against the 11L liftarms they're sitting next to.

EDIT (2016/06/26): I also removed the 2L connector inside the gearbox and thus dropped the 5.5L axle connected to it. Now the gearbox - engine axle is completely place on a half stud offset, but this works out fine; the axle is still supported by half a stud at the rear of the engine. I updated the images and LXF-file acoordingly.

EDIT (2016/07/06): Based on a review by Blakbird of the Minimally playable Porsche, I minimized these changes a liitle bit further. I dropped the extra support of the toggle joint in the D+N+R gearbox. It didn't seem be really necessary and it did require the replacement of a 13L liftarm with an 11L liftarm, so it was relatively expensive. And instead of using a 5x7 frame, I now use a simple support for the axle running form D+N+R gearbox to the differential. The 4th-to-1st gear block is now integrated in this support.

Here you see the original axle scheme in the back and my axle scheme in fornt. First of all I made sure all axles running through an open space never have an axle connector on each end of that space. I also better secured the toggle joint, replaced the pin with pin hole under the dashboard and added extra support for the 15L bridge from D+N+R-console to differential casing. Finally I replaced the 24t clutch gear and auxiliary gears with a gearless friction clutch, which doesn't cause any friction when it's not slipping.

Here you see the added parts (transparent green), the reused parts (original color) and the dropped parts (transparent red).

It should be easy to locate these axles in your build by viewing this in 3D. The LXF-file can be found here. I defined two groups, one with the original scheme and one with the one I used.

Edited July 6, 20168 yr by Didumos69

Thanks for all those upgrades! I did a little one I find rather cool. It's doesn't really help the transmission to work better but it enhances the realism of the Porsche: working doorlocks!

It was a bit hard to build because the space between the door panels and the seats is very small. But hey here it is:

Edited June 17, 20168 yr by Jim
Embedded video

Nice solution with door lock... ;)

Max

  On 6/17/2016 at 7:14 AM, el Squatter said:

Thanks for all those upgrades! I did a little one I find rather cool. It's doesn't really help the transmission to work better but it enhances the realism of the Porsche: working doorlocks!

It was a bit hard to build because the space between the door panels and the seats is very small. But hey here it is

That's a very nice solution indeed! And welcome to EB

Hello,

I invite you to check on this page of Techlug (France)

http://www.techlug.f...c10763-135.html

A person named Ian has made 2 nice improvements:

- A counter to display which gear is on,

- Functionning handles for the doors.

(And at the same time you will improve your french ;)

EDIT: Oups I just read the previous comments :

Edited June 17, 20168 yr by wissamms

A person....is probably el Squatter, from the previous post

The gear display sounds interesting!

Yes Ian and I are the same person :P

I can show you more later on when I'm home again. As you'll see, the gear display is nothing complicated.

Probably something attached to an axle, with four sides (and thus four numbers). Which works when you've applied the gearbox fix.

Hmm that selected gear display looks very interesting and really piece of cake. I will probably integrate it in my Porsche but in other place. Thanx for hint...

Max

Edited June 17, 20168 yr by MaxSupercars

It's indeed very easy to build. At first I wanted the numbers to appear somewhere on the dashboard but it's really hard to pass through the glove compartment and near the front wheels, even more if you added a HOG. If you find a way, I'd be very interested to see it.

  On 6/17/2016 at 7:14 AM, el Squatter said:

Thanks for all those upgrades! I did a little one I find rather cool. It's doesn't really help the transmission to work better but it enhances the realism of the Porsche: working doorlocks!

It was a bit hard to build because the space between the door panels and the seats is very small. But hey here it is:

(video of door lock MOD)

Love how you hid this, very clean.

Good work on the speed indicator as well, I'd also like to see a different location for it though.

Edited June 17, 20168 yr by Appie

Okay, it has gotten late, but I got what I wanted: "HoG shifting:"

Now that the gearbox has its own indexer and the selecter axle rotates with little friction, the road has been paved for something new. Add to that the fact that the Porsche is actually a gearbox on wheels, so why not make shifting gears easy. I decided to go for playability rather than authenticity with my MOD, so I opted to sacrifice MaxSupercars' reverse gear blocking MOD and go for HoG shifting instead. However, I did hold on to supertechnicmans 4th->1st gear block. The HoG will stick out of one of the big panels that is beneath the rear window.

Edited June 18, 20168 yr by Didumos69

I have some idea to put a gear indicator near the steering wheel. In the building instruction:

- Step 137: Replace the 4L axle with a 8L axle or longer.

- Step 159: Turn the orange connector with axle hole up.

- Step 162: Replace the 12L axle with a 10L axle, or just don't push the 12L axle past the 12-tooth black bevel gear.

Now the gear changing axle is extended on top of the steering wheel. Now the speedometers have to be compromised in some ways, which I haven't figured out yet. I'd like to see someone develop more from this.

Edited June 18, 20168 yr by nguyengiangoc

Yes, in that way I'm thinking too. It's the simplest solution.

Max

  On 6/18/2016 at 1:44 AM, nguyengiangoc said:

I have some idea to put a gear indicator near the steering wheel. In the building instruction:

- Step 137: Replace the 4L axle with a 8L axle or longer.

- Step 159: Turn the orange connector with axle hole up.

- Step 162: Replace the 12L axle with a 10L axle, or just don't push the 12L axle past the 12-tooth black bevel gear.

Now the gear changing axle is extended on top of the steering wheel. Now the speedometers have to be compromised in some ways, which I haven't figured out yet. I'd like to see someone develop more from this.

Nice idea! I think the silicon bands and ball joints can move to the inside of the shifter unit, there should be space for those somewhere in the lower part. This gives one stud of space to use between the unit and the speedometers.

  On 6/18/2016 at 1:34 AM, Didumos69 said:

Okay, it has gotten late, but I got what I wanted: "HoG shifting:"

Now that the gearbox has its own indexer and the selecter axle rotates with little friction, the road has been paved for something new. Add to that the fact that the Porsche is actually a gearbox on wheels, so why not make shifting gears easy. I decided to go for playability rather than authenticity with my MOD, so I opted to sacrifice MaxSupercars' reverse gear blocking MOD and go for HoG shifting instead. However, I did hold on to supertechnicmans 4th->1st gear block. The HoG will stick out of one of the big panels that is beneath the rear window.

I made a daylight video:

Edited June 18, 20168 yr by Didumos69

  On 6/18/2016 at 1:44 AM, nguyengiangoc said:

- Step 137: Replace the 4L axle with a 8L axle or longer.

- Step 159: Turn the orange connector with axle hole up.

- Step 162: Replace the 12L axle with a 10L axle, or just don't push the 12L axle past the 12-tooth black bevel gear.

Now the gear changing axle is extended on top of the steering wheel.

So I have checked it and the 8L axle from step 137 goes 1 stud back and collides with gear from the steering wheel.

Max

  On 6/18/2016 at 8:42 AM, MaxSupercars said:

So I have checked it and the 8L axle from step 137 goes 1 stud back and collides with gear from the steering wheel.

Max

My bad, you are right. Then perhaps we can get rid of the two black 2L connectors and bring the whole sub-assembly in step 165 one stud forward?

can please someone who owns the porsche test this headlight mod?

http://www.doktor-brick.de/index.php/Attachment/15592-porsche-911-gt3-rs-superleggera-2-lxf/

So, what do you do while watching Le Mans 24 hours?

You start building some racing stuff.

I downloaded the porsche instructions and build the gearswitch part at the steering wheel.

I can't get it to work for the life of me.

Can someone confirm that the axle coming out underneath should rotate 90 degrees with each gearswitch?

I tried some adjustments mentioned in the first post, but dont know what goes wrong.

It just doesnt switch the middleaxle correct.

  On 6/19/2016 at 7:05 AM, captainmib said:

So, what do you do while watching Le Mans 24 hours?

You start building some racing stuff.

I downloaded the porsche instructions and build the gearswitch part at the steering wheel.

I can't get it to work for the life of me.

Can someone confirm that the axle coming out underneath should rotate 90 degrees with each gearswitch?

I tried some adjustments mentioned in the first post, but dont know what goes wrong.

It just doesnt switch the middleaxle correct.

Without pictures it's hard for us to tell. The output axle underneath should indeed be rotating 90 degrees with each switch and should have a 45 degree offset.

Btw, the whole paddle shifter unit only operates well when there is some kind of resistance on the output axle. Out of the box the two 8T gears down the line (one on a pin with friction) are used for friction. When following my 5-step procedure the 90 degree indexer takes over this role.

Edited June 19, 20168 yr by Didumos69

I noticed the two outer yellow gearknobs, should be hold back by the red changeover catch while shifting.

they should be in a 45 degree position to make a proper shift.

They are not always hold back, but slip along the changeover catch, not creating enough movement to gear up or down.

somehow they are not always returned to a 45 degree position after a shift...

hope i am clear enough?

  On 6/19/2016 at 8:01 AM, captainmib said:

hope i am clear enough?

I understand, but without any images showing the details it's hard to help diagnose what the problem is.

  On 6/3/2016 at 2:01 PM, supertechnicman said:

I think I found a way to fix the infinite shifting issue. I added the dark grey beam below and to the left of the orange shifting arm. I don't know if this will still work when the body is added, but hopefully it will.

This could be an alternative spot for supertechnicman's 4th to 1st gear block. I needed this to combine this feature with HoG shifting.

Edited June 19, 20168 yr by Didumos69