nerdsforprez Posted August 2, 2016 Posted August 2, 2016 I probably will have several observations as I complete this project..... likely not unlike what others have mentioned so forgive if it is redundant. Not to beat a dead horse, I actually really like this set and try not to be too outspoken on its downfalls, but...why? The colors on the identified pieces don't match those that are adjacent to them. Its not like these pieces were not already made in orange... if not perhaps I could understand. But they are elsewhere in the model (even in the chassis) orange.... it would have been too easy to make them orange. Working on the rear lights and I really did not like the gap here: The fix was too easy..... I didn't like the bag plus I will be using that space so I get to use the parts from the bag for other things. Lego doesn't make a 1x1 liftarm (or more commonly known as connector) in orange so I used the 1x2 liftarm in orange from the bag... worked fine End result looks much better.... with the LED not exposing the bulb but shining through the bionicle piece. Upper back lights are also done. Four LEDs in the upper back lights.... Quote
DayWalker Posted August 2, 2016 Posted August 2, 2016 The colors on the identified pieces don't match those that are adjacent to them. Its not like these pieces were not already made in orange... if not perhaps I could understand. But they are elsewhere in the model (even in the chassis) orange.... it would have been too easy to make them orange. On the original Porsche GT3 RS, all these elements are black, but they are also thiner... Quote
sten Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 I have managed to create a front suspension that has Akerman, 18.4 deg of Kingpin inclination, and 9.5 deg of caster. I have not yet build the body around it, but I think it will be OK since it is more compact than the original one. It works quite well and is very sturdy for the most part, but it has some downsides: steering angle is the same as the original set (AKA not good, but any more and things would start rubbing), if you were to drop the front from several inches the hubs would pop off the towballs (pushing by hand to compress the suspension it is fine), it is not McPherson like the real 911, and finally the brake calipers only fit on the front. Here is my Brickshelf with some more and higher res photos. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=565463 Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Apart from the drawbacks you mention yourself this looks quite interesting. I'm very curious how this will fit the body. The inclined kingpin will cause the wheels to take more space when rotating around the steering axis, which may cause the wheels to collide with the body in turns. Edited August 4, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
DayWalker Posted August 7, 2016 Posted August 7, 2016 (edited) Hi Guys ! Here is another mod for the Porsche : I propose lockable doors, with inside and outside handles. Here is the LXF file to ease the building (I miss one flat pannel since I have not found it in LDD... and in fact it is my first LDD project...). Basically, it uses a 9L arm connected on two balls (the same one used to control the gears) and an elastic so that the door keeps lock by default. The fixation of the mirror is also changed. Here are two photos (without this 9L arm, since... I have to buy new ones...) and details to fix the elastic (it was not present on the first photo since I also need to buy one) and there is no issue with the steering wheel ^ ^ NB : to fix the elastic, we need a lego city screwdriver, fixed inside a small connector Edited August 7, 2016 by DayWalker Quote
FireAnt Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Hi All, Don't post often (ever), but I just got to the infamous steps 267 - 269 on my Porsche GT3R and found something very interesting. Bit of background; I'm from South Africa and we only received our stock of the Porsche GT3R in the last 4 days or so, meaning we've most likely received the last version IF TLG made any changes to the build. (As a side note, TLG seriously underestimated the interest and stock levels for SA. I spoke to several specialist and mono brand stores about 6 ago and all had already sold out on pre-order. They tell me that TLG had only assigned a case or two per chain. I eventually did find a national chain that had "1" left yesterday. They received 3 sets in total across their entire chain, and other general toy store chains I spoke to are only getting max 2 per store on request only. There will be no more stock coming into the country after September of the GT3R. TLG really need to get their act together, same thing happened with Ghostbusters Firehouse here in SA) Back to the gear box story; I just finished building the gear box about 15 minutes ago, making the changes that have been recommended on various blogs and forums to get the gear selection into the right order. I though I'll test out the drive speeds on all 4 positions using a PF motor attached to the drivetrain. Lo-and-behold, the gears went 1st-3rd-2nd-4th with the correction! I double checked this a few times, then decided to put the gears in steps 267 - 269 back in the right order and re-tested with the motor. The gear change occurred perfectly and in the correct order! Obviously the change TLG has made is in the gear box in undercarriage of the car and not the transmitting gears in steps 267 - 269. Looking forward to hearing if anyone else has seen this on GT3R's purchased recently? Quote
Jim Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Can you post a picture of the pages in the instruction manual? Several of the undercarriage and 267-269? I will be merging this with the other Porsche topic soon. Quote
nerdsforprez Posted August 12, 2016 Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Finished my modification of adding lights to this set. Pleased with the outcome. Not a huge project.... but while I am away from my collection it was quite a bit of fun and great way to relax. More pics and full write-up at http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/431720 Edited August 12, 2016 by nerdsforprez Quote
technic_addict Posted August 12, 2016 Posted August 12, 2016 Finished my modification of adding lights to this set. Pleased with the outcome. Not a huge project.... but while I am away from my collection it was quite a bit of fun and great way to relax. What method did you use to cover up the front hole under the light? Did you consider closing the large hole in the back with the method someone posted here? I found it looked much better. Quote
nerdsforprez Posted August 12, 2016 Posted August 12, 2016 This method: Pretty much the same method used by others here in this thread. I used different pieces just because I am away from my collection and have a limited amount right now. I don't think closing the gap that I did had been proposed yet. But this thread is so long; I haven't read the whole thing or followed it the whole time. I would not be surprised if someone else had proposed it. But I have not seen it. Quote
technic_addict Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 This method: Pretty much the same method used by others here in this thread. I used different pieces just because I am away from my collection and have a limited amount right now. I don't think closing the gap that I did had been proposed yet. But this thread is so long; I haven't read the whole thing or followed it the whole time. I would not be surprised if someone else had proposed it. But I have not seen it. I don't recall seeing a fix for the front headlight with only three pieces added. I had a a solution with five pieces but it is slightly more vertical. I think I like your solution better. Here is what I did. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=133743&st=450#entry2617857 I did a slightly different version of this for the rear end. Looks much much better IMO. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=133743&st=325#entry2596596 Quote
nerdsforprez Posted August 14, 2016 Posted August 14, 2016 THis thread is so long....hard to follow correctly... but the link you provide for the back end takes me to what looks like Efferman's mod of the backend. Sorry if I am reading it wrong. Also, as mentioned in the write-up, I did not try to re-do the whole back end. I am away from my collection and anything I build right now has to come from the 42056 set. Unless of course I make BL orders. But all I did was add a covering to a gap with the already existing pieces of the set. Just enough to cover the LED I installed. So.... comparing a one-stud fix to a whole re-do of the back end is a kinda apples and oranges IMO. I agree though, it does look much better. However, really all I see is mostly just changes to the little back fin, right under the rear spoiler. Quote
aefferen Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) I finally managed to get the rear axle steering working. It fits with the MODs for rear end HOG provided by didumos69. It took me a while luckily :0. A lot of play fun. I had to sacrify a bit of the engine compartment. However that end was under developed anyway. If I had a choice I introduced trans-clear 5x11 panels to fully show the engine compartment. So I needed the space to get the necessary reduction in. When I was finished I realized I might need less room with a worm-wheel so that will become round number .... next. I had countess tries to get it fit in the model and to keep the sturdiness of the model in. I also first applied the gear shift parts but those give way to much free room while changing directions of turning so not working. I had to turn to old fashioned gear shifting like first applied in models 853 or 8860 from the late 70-ties early 80-ties. This to change between counter steering and way steering like the original has. Next project is the front lift. photo1 photo2 photo3 photo4 Currently finishing the building instructions in MLCad. Edited August 15, 2016 by aefferen Quote
imadcobra Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 Wow, great job aefferen, I've just bought all the parts for didumos69's Ultimate upgrade but I can see I might need some more parts now for rear steering too. Looking forward to your instructions Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) I finally managed to get the rear axle steering working. It fits with the MODs for rear end HOG provided by didumos69. It took me a while luckily :0. A lot of play fun. I had to sacrify a bit of the engine compartment. However that end was under developed anyway. If I had a choice I introduced trans-clear 5x11 panels to fully show the engine compartment. So I needed the space to get the necessary reduction in. When I was finished I realized I might need less room with a worm-wheel so that will become round number .... next. I had countess tries to get it fit in the model and to keep the sturdiness of the model in. I also first applied the gear shift parts but those give way to much free room while changing directions of turning so not working. I had to turn to old fashioned gear shifting like first applied in models 853 or 8860 from the late 70-ties early 80-ties. This to change between counter steering and way steering like the original has. Next project is the front lift. Currently finishing the building instructions in MLCad. This looks really cool, although I still don't fully understand it's operation yet. Does it switch from opposite-direction-steering to same-direction-steering at a certain point? I see you don't have any vertical arms tying the upper and lower suspension arms together. Aren't you affraid the shocks will push the lower suspension arms out of the lower ball joint after stressing the suspension a few times? Anyway, this works deserves some embedded images, would be nice if you could embed them. EDIT: For my ultimate version I eventually moved the HoGs to the front holes of the same panel so they directly mesh with the 20t bevel gears at the front side of the rear suspension module. This made the HoGs better reachable and more simple, but it required a minor change to box 2 as well: The vertically placed panel in front of the rear suspension module needed to be fixed better so it would better lock-up the 20t bevel gears to avoid the HoGs from slipping. See this post: http://www.eurobrick...5#entry2600883. If you would use the same HoG setup you would have even more space for you're rear wheel steering. Edited August 15, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
charlesw Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) Hi All, Don't post often (ever), but I just got to the infamous steps 267 - 269 on my Porsche GT3R and found something very interesting. Bit of background; I'm from South Africa and we only received our stock of the Porsche GT3R in the last 4 days or so, meaning we've most likely received the last version IF TLG made any changes to the build. (As a side note, TLG seriously underestimated the interest and stock levels for SA. I spoke to several specialist and mono brand stores about 6 ago and all had already sold out on pre-order. They tell me that TLG had only assigned a case or two per chain. I eventually did find a national chain that had "1" left yesterday. They received 3 sets in total across their entire chain, and other general toy store chains I spoke to are only getting max 2 per store on request only. There will be no more stock coming into the country after September of the GT3R. TLG really need to get their act together, same thing happened with Ghostbusters Firehouse here in SA) Back to the gear box story; I just finished building the gear box about 15 minutes ago, making the changes that have been recommended on various blogs and forums to get the gear selection into the right order. I though I'll test out the drive speeds on all 4 positions using a PF motor attached to the drivetrain. Lo-and-behold, the gears went 1st-3rd-2nd-4th with the correction! I double checked this a few times, then decided to put the gears in steps 267 - 269 back in the right order and re-tested with the motor. The gear change occurred perfectly and in the correct order! Obviously the change TLG has made is in the gear box in undercarriage of the car and not the transmitting gears in steps 267 - 269. Looking forward to hearing if anyone else has seen this on GT3R's purchased recently? Got mine saturday, and I didn't noticed that. I've just checked the instruction and they do look exactly the same as thoses released initially. Edited August 15, 2016 by charlesw Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) Got mine saturday, and I didn't noticed that. I've just checked the instruction and they do look exactly the same as thoses released initially. Maybe the difference was caused by The Coriolis Force, which operates in opposite direction in the Southern Hemisphere . More seriously, maybe FireAnt didn't notice steps 267 and 269 show the bottom side of the chassis... Edited August 15, 2016 by Didumos69 Quote
charlesw Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 Or maybe I got one of the last bug'ed version...but I couldn't care less, as we all known that a Porsche is nothing more than a squished beetle Furthermore, on the later boxes, the layout of the box is quite different than the orginal and we got a nice reinforcement beam...and when ordered directly from S@H, they've got completely mad with their boxes...I got a 610x420x250mm box containing the box containing the box of the Porsche...itself being full of boxes... Quote
aefferen Posted August 15, 2016 Posted August 15, 2016 This looks really cool, although I still don't fully understand it's operation yet. Does it switch from opposite-direction-steering to same-direction-steering at a certain point? The yellow handle is to move between opposite and same direction steering. I am did not find yet a way to have this based on speed like the real one.I see you don't have any vertical arms tying the upper and lower suspension arms together. Aren't you affraid the shocks will push the lower suspension arms out of the lower ball joint after stressing the suspension a few times? Yes that is correct, I found out later so in the instructions I added this fix between the two arms. EDIT: For my ultimate version I eventually moved the HoGs to the front holes of the same panel so they directly mesh with the 20t bevel gears at the front side of the rear suspension module. This made the HoGs better reachable and more simple, but it required a minor change to box 2 as well: The vertically placed panel in front of the rear suspension module needed to be fixed better so it would better lock-up the 20t bevel gears to avoid the HoGs from slipping. See this post: http://www.eurobrick...5#entry2600883. If you would use the same HoG setup you would have even more space for you're rear wheel steering. Ok thanks for the hint I will check if that will bring necessary space to make it even more compact. Quote
nerdsforprez Posted August 18, 2016 Posted August 18, 2016 Forgive me if this has already been posted, but I don't remember seeing it. Or if the creator of the video/Porsche mod is a member here and didn't want things posted.... but I found this fairly mesmerizing..... Quote
aefferen Posted August 20, 2016 Posted August 20, 2016 Although not finished yet I wanted to share release one of my Porsche enhancement magazine. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AAHsqH4f-2LZmQ8 Quote
DayWalker Posted August 20, 2016 Posted August 20, 2016 Hi Guys ! Here is another mod for the Porsche : I propose lockable doors, with inside and outside handles. Here is the LXF file to ease the building (I miss one flat pannel since I have not found it in LDD... and in fact it is my first LDD project...). Basically, it uses a 9L arm connected on two balls (the same one used to control the gears) and an elastic so that the door keeps lock by default. The fixation of the mirror is also changed. Here are two photos (without this 9L arm, since... I have to buy new ones...) and details to fix the elastic (it was not present on the first photo since I also need to buy one) and there is no issue with the steering wheel ^ ^ NB : to fix the elastic, we need a lego city screwdriver, fixed inside a small connector Nobody tried this mod ? Quote
Didumos69 Posted August 20, 2016 Posted August 20, 2016 Nobody tried this mod ? Not yet, but I will . Quote
imadcobra Posted August 22, 2016 Posted August 22, 2016 Great instructions aefferen, really great pictures with explaining each step, makes it simple to follow. Do you have a list of the parts to make the rear steering upgrade. Also love the detail of the older Lego Technic car sets. I'm in the process of trying to buy them all now at reasonable prices, unfortunately my dark ages began after the very first 3 technic sets and ended due to the porsche so I have a lot of catching up to do. This is a great site to do so. Appreciate the time you guys put in. Quote
aefferen Posted August 22, 2016 Posted August 22, 2016 (edited) Great instructions aefferen, really great pictures with explaining each step, makes it simple to follow. Do you have a list of the parts to make the rear steering upgrade. Also love the detail of the older Lego Technic car sets. I'm in the process of trying to buy them all now at reasonable prices, unfortunately my dark ages began after the very first 3 technic sets and ended due to the porsche so I have a lot of catching up to do. This is a great site to do so. Appreciate the time you guys put in. Parts list in one of the next releases.The first version of the rear axle steering is a bit clumsy and does sacrificies a great part of the engine. Than I read the article from TG about the Porsche where they said that TLG had a solution for rear axle steering which was not approved by Porsche itself. What I did is I took the rear axle steering of the original Porsche and tried to mimic that one as close as possible. This brought me version 2. This one is working greatly but does not function wel with the turning ration of this car so I need to improve it, but can't find a solution yet. However I wanted to share it anyway for now. Edited August 22, 2016 by aefferen Quote
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