DayWalker Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 @Marinho and @Ivorrr : JB70 made the parts difference in the Bricksafe comments of the Pimp Up My Porsche : https://bricksafe.com/files/jb70/42056-pimp-up-my-porsche/history/v1.3/Parts-diff-v1.3-v1.4.jpg Quote
jb70 Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 I have uploaded additional part lists with the different parts between Pimp-up-my-Porsche v1.3 and v1.4: - If you already have build v1.3, here you will find the different parts and a rebrickable part list or bricklink part list with the additional parts you need to build v1.4. These part lists can be imported on rebrickable or bricklink. Have fun to pimp up your Porsche! Quote
grum64 Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 I so much want my GT3 to be the best it can be but the thought of getting much of what I’ve already built disassembled... Quote
adultlegouser Posted January 31, 2019 Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) I exported the V1.4 parts list to my a new wanted list. Then i use the Apply feature to apply my 2 previous orders of V1.3 to it. Then just bought the remaining pieces left. (Of course, i was starting with the Lego 42056 kit, so I had to use Compare Sets with the V1.3 set (or V1.4 the second time) initially to just order the remaining few parts i needed.) Edited January 31, 2019 by adultlegouser Quote
Marinho Posted January 31, 2019 Posted January 31, 2019 You guys are the best!! I will order the missing parts, and go on to build the 1.4 version. Then, I will continue to struggle in order to come up with a stand for it, that can fit my cabinet... Quote
adultlegouser Posted February 6, 2019 Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) On 1/25/2019 at 5:58 PM, jb70 said: I have integrated the new front and rear axles into Pimp up my Porsche v1.4 with new part list and building instructions. I just finished building the chassis last night and think i may have found a small error in the newly modified V1.4 instructions. Not a huge deal. See below image. it seems 2 black pins are put in twice (4 total). They get put in the chassis early in step 50. Then in the front suspension later. At step 68, you cannot marry the pieces without removing 2 of the pins from one side. Just requires picking which step to install just the 2. Edited February 6, 2019 by adultlegouser Quote
jb70 Posted February 6, 2019 Posted February 6, 2019 18 hours ago, adultlegouser said: See below image. it seems 2 black pins are put in twice (4 total). They get put in the chassis early in step 50. Then in the front suspension later. At step 68, you cannot marry the pieces without removing 2 of the pins from one side. Just requires picking which step to install just the 2. @adultlegouser, Thanks for your review! I have updated part list and building instructions as you suggested. Quote
boochydog Posted February 6, 2019 Posted February 6, 2019 thanks for this update. i have just finished the steering assembly and installed it in the frame, so i am about to this step. i am amazed how well this has gone together and how smooth everything seems to operate. i especially like the pointer that indicates which gear (1-4) it is in from the dashboard. Quote
adultlegouser Posted February 7, 2019 Posted February 7, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, boochydog said: thanks for this update. i have just finished the steering assembly and installed it in the frame, so i am about to this step. i am amazed how well this has gone together and how smooth everything seems to operate. i especially like the pointer that indicates which gear (1-4) it is in from the dashboard. So I haven't started the body build portion just yet. I cant' seem to quit playing with the rolling chassis. This thing is so cool and so large! I just want to confirm a few things: -When shifting through gears, the count on the shift pointer is from far right (1st) to far left (4th) - correct? Feels like mine goes (4,3,1,2) from L to R. -When rolling it in gear, it seems to roll easily for a second before the red diffs catch and fully engage... and then it rolls at a rate/resistance to the gearing that is selected. - is this normal? (I assume this is just how the mechanism works... takes a second to fully engage.) -When shifted in reverse, it can still shift through gears and roll forward as well, but looks to act the same as when in neutral - with no gears engaged. is this normal? Otherwise, everything seems to test fine. This is definitely a challenging build. A couple times I had to go back a step or 2 and flip something. You really have to pay close attention without the fly-in or highlighted graphics (like Lego instructions) - but that makes it that much more fun. And I don't know about everyone else, but the slower the build the more fun for me. Once it's built... it is all but over. Oh... I also broke down and ordered the custom Sticker set for the side doors and spoiler! This kit is costing me so much money... its hard to imagine owning a real Porsche. Edited February 7, 2019 by adultlegouser Quote
grum64 Posted February 7, 2019 Posted February 7, 2019 8 hours ago, adultlegouser said: ...the slower the build the more fun... Amen to that Quote
drodg Posted February 7, 2019 Posted February 7, 2019 As I finish mine I wanted to change the wheels to the alloy/gray color that you see on some GT3's. Anyhow here is how my wheels turned out. Quote
jb70 Posted February 7, 2019 Posted February 7, 2019 22 hours ago, adultlegouser said: -When shifting through gears, the count on the shift pointer is from far right (1st) to far left (4th) - correct? Feels like mine goes (4,3,1,2) from L to R. No, the gear indicator should go from far left (1st gear: means fast engine at low vehicle speed) to far right (4th gear: means slow engine at fast vehicle speed). If your engine doesn't move in that gear sequence, you should verify your gearbox. Please check the correct 90° position of the orange 2L beams on step 41 page 30. They should align with the dark gray driving rings exactly, as shown in the instructions: Left driving ring is engaged to the front red gear. Right driving ring is idle in the middle position. And while mounting these orange 2L beams, take care to keep the position of the gear indicator as shown on step 30 page 17. This will indicate 4th gear. 22 hours ago, adultlegouser said: -When rolling it in gear, it seems to roll easily for a second before the red diffs catch and fully engage... and then it rolls at a rate/resistance to the gearing that is selected. - is this normal? (I assume this is just how the mechanism works... takes a second to fully engage.) Yes, this is normal. There is some backlash in the gearbox. Each gear pair causes a little bit of backlash. There are many gear pairs between rear axle and engine, so it sums up to a few centimeters of moving the car, until you notice the engine to move. 22 hours ago, adultlegouser said: -When shifted in reverse, it can still shift through gears and roll forward as well, but looks to act the same as when in neutral - with no gears engaged. is this normal? Yes, this is normal, too. You may always shift all 4 gears in any state of the DNR switch. The DNR switch only switches the direction of the engine between (D)rive forward, (N)eutral and (R)everse. Quote
boochydog Posted February 8, 2019 Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) @jb70 , thanks! this helped me out. i knew all my gears were smooth and working properly, but could not confirm that each gear position was correct. i did build it exactly like the instructions stated (with the orange 2L beam pointing back on the left side and down on the right side), so the grey driving rings were engaged with the red gears as you stated above on the left and right. what i did not know was that the gear indicator shown in step 30 was 4th gear, so now it makes sense that the indicator at the far left is 1st gear and it moves to 4th gear at the far right (which is what is pictured in Step 30). So far, so good!!! Thanks!! Edited February 8, 2019 by boochydog Quote
adultlegouser Posted February 8, 2019 Posted February 8, 2019 4 hours ago, jb70 said: No, the gear indicator should go from far left (1st gear: means fast engine at low vehicle speed) to far right (4th gear: means slow engine at fast vehicle speed). If your engine doesn't move in that gear sequence, you should verify your gearbox. Please check the correct 90° position of the orange 2L beams on step 41 page 30. They should align with the dark gray driving rings exactly, as shown in the instructions: Left driving ring is engaged to the front red gear. Right driving ring is idle in the middle position. And while mounting these orange 2L beams, take care to keep the position of the gear indicator as shown on step 30 page 17. This will indicate 4th gear. Oh wow, thanks so much. That small detail is hard to pick up on. An easy fix though. Just shifted into 4th, put it in N, pulled the (2) orange 2L pieces and rotated them correctly as shown. Makes much more sense shifting in order from left to right, 1 to 4 now! Thanks so much for the quick help! Quote
adultlegouser Posted February 8, 2019 Posted February 8, 2019 4 hours ago, jb70 said: Yes, this is normal, too. You may always shift all 4 gears in any state of the DNR switch. The DNR switch only switches the direction of the engine between (D)rive forward, (N)eutral and (R)everse. Forgot to follow up on this, My engine nor gears turn in Reverse. ...after investigating, it looks like I omitted the grey gear way back in step 6. No wonder nothing is spinning!!!! So I have that to fix. 10 hours ago, drodg said: As I finish mine I wanted to change the wheels to the alloy/gray color that you see on some GT3's. Anyhow here is how my wheels turned out. I am interested to see them mounted on the vehicle and a closer up shot as well. Did you use hardware store paint or hobby paint? Sanding/priming? Quote
Marinho Posted February 8, 2019 Posted February 8, 2019 7 hours ago, adultlegouser said: I am interested to see them mounted on the vehicle and a closer up shot as well. Did you use hardware store paint or hobby paint? Sanding/priming? A good option to paint this kind of stuff is Plasti Dip! If you latter want to remove the paint, just need to pull it off. Quote
drodg Posted February 8, 2019 Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) I build plastic and resin model cars as a hobby also. I should say I buy lately not so much build. I had a can of paint that is actually a FCA paint (Jeep/Chrysler) that I have no idea why had bought it but thought it looked like a good shade of silver. I didn't prime the wheels because I plan on building and just displaying it. I will maybe clear them with a Tamiya clear. They look great and I will post some pictures here as I finish up the rest of the car. I love this Lego btw. Edited February 8, 2019 by drodg wrong wording Quote
adultlegouser Posted February 17, 2019 Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) Finally got the stickers in and on. Ended up getting both sets so I could get the Spoiler sticker. Word to the wise, the spoiler sticker rides right down the inset in the middle making it hard to seat. Use something soft (not finger nails) to work it down. I ended up slightly rubbing off a line with my nails... then started using the end of my T-shirt. I took the doors off to place the long one. Put them back on and then placed the small ones with the doors lined up. Even came with a rear plate. Used an Exacto blade to cut the pieces separate once applied. Overall sticker quality - 6 out of 10. Overall design - 10 out of 10. They really pop the model out! Only thing I would like to do is fill in the gaps at the headlights somehow. Edited February 17, 2019 by adultlegouser Quote
dwalker Posted February 18, 2019 Posted February 18, 2019 Has anyone tried modifying the dashboard to make it look more like the real thing yet? Worst offender is the glovebox that sticks out way further than the rest of the dash. Thanks Quote
drodg Posted February 18, 2019 Posted February 18, 2019 On 2/17/2019 at 1:12 PM, adultlegouser said: Finally got the stickers in and on. Ended up getting both sets so I could get the Spoiler sticker. Word to the wise, the spoiler sticker rides right down the inset in the middle making it hard to seat. Use something soft (not finger nails) to work it down. I ended up slightly rubbing off a line with my nails... then started using the end of my T-shirt. I took the doors off to place the long one. Put them back on and then placed the small ones with the doors lined up. Even came with a rear plate. Used an Exacto blade to cut the pieces separate once applied. Overall sticker quality - 6 out of 10. Overall design - 10 out of 10. They really pop the model out! Only thing I would like to do is fill in the gaps at the headlights somehow. Stickers look good and if you do digging around here you will see ads you can do to modify the gaps around the headlights. Quote
grum64 Posted February 18, 2019 Posted February 18, 2019 (edited) You could try this solution from technic_addict to the gap under the headlights. Edited February 18, 2019 by grum64 Typo Quote
grum64 Posted February 18, 2019 Posted February 18, 2019 2 minutes ago, drodg said: Thanks grum64 for those pictures. You’re welcome. Quote
superdog Posted February 19, 2019 Posted February 19, 2019 WOW, great works， I thought i must rebuild 42056 with latest version in this post. Quote
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