42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

[Attika]

I tore my Porsche apart (was ready to start box 4) and applied your fix Attika. It def keeps the shift mechanism at 90 degrees, but you still have to pull the paddles all the way back on each shift or their will be some occasional grinding. Good fix! If anyone is going to motorise the car I think they'll need to put a white clutch gear between the engine and transmission to avoid gear grinding during the occasional bad shift.

As I see, pulling the paddles to the end is a basic requirement of the design, as that much movement is necessary to make the 90 degree turn on the end of the system. Locking on exact position is a fairly different story. I am curious however what would be the TLG's official statement about this...

And for all of those, who would like a HOG, I have a concept in my head. If the stars are alligned I can post the mod sometime this evening (late).

[supertechnicman]

As I see, pulling the paddles to the end is a basic requirement of the design, as that much movement is necessary to make the 90 degree turn on the end of the system. Locking on exact position is a fairly different story. I am curious however what would be the TLG's official statement about this...

Yes, I wish TLG could have come up with a way to make the paddle movement less exaggerated. It would be nice if the paddles only required a small tap, like in the real car, to trigger a gear change in the transmission. I guess that would require a separate system to generate and store mechanical energy for the operation though.

[Tommy Styrvoky]

Where is the LDD file that has been mentioned? As I want to take a look at the paddle shifting/ front suspension, and see if there is a way to compact, make more accurate version for the model.

[Appie]

As I see, pulling the paddles to the end is a basic requirement of the design, as that much movement is necessary to make the 90 degree turn on the end of the system. Locking on exact position is a fairly different story. I am curious however what would be the TLG's official statement about this...

And for all of those, who would like a HOG, I have a concept in my head. If the stars are alligned I can post the mod sometime this evening (late).

Currently working on a HOG as well, I am trying to put the HOG in the rear above the rear wheels on the black panels and functional with Jetro's body removal mod. The LDD I have from JunkystyleGio is only of the chassis so seeing where "the marriage" puts some stuff is kind of hard to see. Getting it beyond the midconsole was super easy, just that rear part, I am curious to see your idea.

[Attika]

Currently working on a HOG as well, I am trying to put the HOG in the rear above the rear wheels on the black panels and functional with Jetro's body removal mod. The LDD I have from JunkystyleGio is only of the chassis so seeing where "the marriage" puts some stuff is kind of hard to see. Getting it beyond the midconsole was super easy, just that rear part, I am curious to see your idea.

There is a hole between the two 9L beams on the dashboard, that is where I'll bring it out. Using a black 20 gear as hog it wont mess up the aesthetics too much. (not more then if it is anywhere else) As a side effect I'm expecting that it gives the steering wheel a more realistic ratio. Still I couldn't get around it yet, so don't take it as a promise. I've been using this method in earlier MOC's with quite convincing results. Sorry I can't make it now. This afternoon turn out to be busy.

[Appie]

Yeah, I am afraid it will have to come on the dash (not my preference, I don't want to see it at all at first glance), but the rear is so full of gear or not so handy placed panels to route HOG axles through that the dash might be the only solution.

Edit: hmm one method that could also work is making one of the rear exhausts a HOG. Ultimately hidden, but not so easy to use, then again, anything better than the wheel at the driver's seat?

In fact that lack of control on the wheel is the only reason I am looking into a HOG, I would have been fine without it. In the 8865 and even in the HOG equipped 8880 the steering wheel was easy to reach.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Appie

[__________________________]

Based on the rate of updates, we will have an Ultimate Version of this set within a week :grin:

[MaxSupercars]

Yes, why? Because of the posts above (yours on the previous page ).

More interested in what people think of the adjustment I made to MaxSupercars' mod.

Appie it looks good. I must test it... :)

I don't know if it will be hidden better. Because the front linkage will be seen unenclosed in front of the right seat. But I know... it's R-N-D solution.

Max

Edited June 6, 2016 by MaxSupercars

[aol000xw]

Based on the rate of updates, we will have an Ultimate Version of this set within a week :grin:

According to TLG it was Ultimate already. Oh, the Irony

[Appie]

Appie it looks good. I must test it... :)

I don't know if it will be hidden better. Because the front linkage will be seen unenclosed in front of the right seat. But I know... it's R-N-D solution.

Max

Cool, I look forward to your test! And yeah, it shows a little below the seat, but it's black so at least it blends with the floor?

edit: Think I found a new place for HOG that can continue from my HOG alongside the midconsole (it's routing is on the other side of the gearlock mod), the marriage grants me 1 stud of space. Let's hope it's all I need.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Appie

[Didumos69]

EDIT: I took the LXF-file of Box 1 (from Tommy Styrkovy's McPherson post, great thanks to the original designer!) to verify whether all will fit and it does. I updated my LXF-file to contain the steering train with and without dashboard HoG.

So to wrap things up: This is a simple dashboard HoG, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the added parts (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and the dropped parts (transparent red). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. I also reused the 5L yellow axle and several other parts. The last image shows the extra parts needed.

EDIT:

- Updated the LXF-file with the 3x3 liftarm to keep the gear rack in place as was suggested by Blakbird.

- Added a variation with removable HoG to the LXF-file (see third image), an idea from Attika.

- Added a variation prepared for placing the gear rack at the back of the front suspension (might be needed for Ackermann steering).

With and without standard HoG:

What has been added (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and what has been dropped (transparent red)?

Variations for Ackermann steering and with removable HoG

Parts needed for standard HoG:

LXF-file here.

Edited June 8, 2016 by Didumos69

[tomek9210]

Will someone try and modify axles and add ackermann steering, proper geometry and rear steering :)?

[Jeroen Ottens]

Would this be an option for HoG-steering on the dashboard?

- I switched the thin 12 tooth bevel gear in the toggle joint from left to right.

- I removed the gearing above the gear rack, otherwise the HoG and steering wheel would rotate in the wrong direction.

- I replaced the CV-joint with a U-joint, because a CV-joint won't make the angle (not in LDD that is).

- The 9L axle inserted in the U-joint sits very tight in the LXF-file, but my experience is that a real-life U-joint gives a little more space.

I checked but I'm not completely sure whether all fits beneath the dashboard. Maybe someones can check.

LXF-file here.

Doesn't the steeringwheel now turn the other way?

[Rishab N]

Would this be an option for HoG-steering on the dashboard?

- I switched the thin 12 tooth bevel gear in the toggle joint from left to right.

- I removed the gearing above the gear rack, otherwise the HoG and steering wheel would rotate in the wrong direction.

- I replaced the CV-joint with a U-joint, because a CV-joint won't make the angle (not in LDD that is).

- The 9L axle inserted in the U-joint sits very tight in the LXF-file, but my experience is that a real-life U-joint gives a little more space.

I checked but I'm not completely sure whether all fits beneath the dashboard. Maybe someones can check.

LXF-file here.

I think the HOG gear would need a little more bracing than that. Aside from that it looks good.

On another note, I have to say that the small modifications have made this model seem desirable again

[Attika]

Would this be an option for HoG-steering on the dashboard?

- I switched the thin 12 tooth bevel gear in the toggle joint from left to right.

- I removed the gearing above the gear rack, otherwise the HoG and steering wheel would rotate in the wrong direction.

- The 9L axle inserted in the U-joint sits very tight in the LXF-file, but my experience is that a real-life U-joint gives a little more space.

I checked but I'm not completely sure whether all fits beneath the dashboard. Maybe someones can check.

LXF-file here.

Looks nice and simple solution, (in a good way). Let me ask that the pin with the pinhole holds strong enough? For me it seems likely that it will jump under tork... Sorry, as a new member I should be more modest. Don't take it as an offense.

[Didumos69]

Doesn't the steeringwheel now turn the other way?

Steering wheel and HoG turn in the same direction. Imagine the steering wheel rotating to the right in the image, the axle runing sideways also rotates to the right and the HoG too. The axle inserted in the U-joint rotates in opposite direction compared to the unmodified situation. That's why I removed the gearing above the gear rack.

I think the HOG gear would need a little more bracing than that.

I agree. I'm working on that.

Looks nice and simple solution, (in a good way). Let me ask that the pin with the pinhole holds strong enough? For me it seems likely that it will jump under tork... Sorry, as a new member I should be more modest. Don't take it as an offense.

I'm working on replacing the pin with pin hole with a 3L pin-axle connector. Whether it will slip under torque depends on how rigid the upper black part of the dashboard is compared to the parts securing the other gears.

Sorry, as a new member I should be more modest. Don't take it as an offense.

No problem.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[Jeroen Ottens]

Steering wheel and HoG turn in the same direction. Imagine the steering wheel rotating to the right in the image, the axle runing sideways also rotates to the right and the HoG too. The axle inserted in the U-joint rotates in opposite direction compared to the unmodified situation. That's why I removed the gearing above the gear rack.

Ah, I missed that part. Than it makes sense. But you lost the 3:5 gear reduction as well now, or did I overlook something more?

[Didumos69]

Ah, I missed that part. Than it makes sense. But you lost the 3:5 gear reduction as well now, or did I overlook something more?

You're right. However, I see that as an advantage, especially for the HoG. I expect the feel to be less sloppy.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[MaxSupercars]

Cool, I look forward to your test! And yeah, it shows a little below the seat, but it's black so at least it blends with the floor?

Hmm, so I've tested it and it looks to work, but the biggest problem is that longer vertical arm which bends. Second thing is that changeover catch makes circular movement which does not correspond with linear movement and it raises the lower horizontal arm... I think that better is my solution, where the vertical arm is 2 studs shorter and the whole mechanism 2 studs higher... I'll make video of this solution for inverted R-N-D gear sequence.

BTW the solution from Attika with inverted changeover catches under paddles works great and adds great reliability to paddle shifting!

Here my test video:

Max

Edited June 6, 2016 by MaxSupercars

[Didumos69]

I did some extra plumbing to get better grip on the HoG and attached bevel gear to avoid slipping. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes.

Edited June 7, 2016 by Didumos69

[Appie]

Hmm, so I've tested it and it looks to work, but the biggest problem is that longer vertical arm which bends. Second thing is that changeover catch makes circular movement which does not correspond with linear movement and it raises the lower horizontal arm... I think that better is my solution, where the vertical arm is 2 studs shorter and the whole mechanism 2 studs higher... I'll make video of this solution for inverted R-N-D gear sequence.

BTW the solution from Attika with inverted changeover catches under paddles works great and adds great reliability to paddle shifting!

Here my test video:

Max

This isn't the mod I made, it has all the wrong parts, which causes the bending. Also, the mechanism I made follows the sticker D>N>R like the normal model. That took the most time, hence why I said I wish it was like a real car. Let me make some images, 1 sec.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Appie

[MaxSupercars]

I had to modify your solution because otherwise it would screw everything... You have to use the axle connectors... And the long lower arm should be made from beams not axles...

Max

Edited June 6, 2016 by MaxSupercars

[Appie]

Axle connectors don't turn, which was the whole point of my mechanism to work with the D>N>R sticker. I know the pin with pinhole aren't a prefered alternative due to friction, but it's better than no movement at all from axle connectors. I made 2 pictures to illustrate which parts were used.

(Yes I am aware there's a 7L grey axle in this colour coding)

Also the axle or liftarm shouldn't matter on the bottom, it's only function is blocking a 2L thin liftarm, it will manage. Can somebody please test the mod with the same parts that I used?

[MaxSupercars]

Here my possible solution for inverted R-N-D gear sequence:

Max

Edited June 6, 2016 by MaxSupercars

[Appie]

You're aware that will clash with the chair in that spot? Your solution at the rear was better.

And seems my previous post is drowned on the previous page. Again...

Still hoping somebody wants to test with the actual parts I used.