[MOD] 42056 - Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS

[Didumos69]

@brickhank, thanks for your update! Finding the right sequence is indeed quite a challenge. It can be done without bending parts, but sometimes that means you need to take the whole thing apart again. Personally, I tend to enjoy those kind of exercises .

The gears in the shift train indeed need to be aligned properly to get the mechanism working. I thought I made a note on that in the OP.  Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build.

Edited January 3, 2017 by Didumos69

[RISCy]

After about 10 years of abstinence, I bought the third technics set in my life (guess which one ;-)). Sadly it took me only a few days to build and only when I finished it, I had the idea of searching for fixes for the gearbox issue. When I found this thread, I almost instantly made accounts on rebrickable, bricklink and here, downloaded the parts list for the ultimately playable version of the Porsche and ordered the parts. Since I am new to LDD, could anyone give me a few tipps how to use the LDD-Model Didumos69 supplied to get the modifications started? Is there a way to create building instructions from it or a recommended order in which to apply the changes to the model?

I already made the mini mod from the Hispabrick Video to make the body removable and also ordered the parts to make the doors closeable, but other than that anything is still build as to the manual.

btw... I am just stunned about how sophisticated the lego community and the infrastructure for MOCs is. Special thanks to you didumos69 for doing all the work and supplying your changes to the porsche for free. I can only imagine how much thought and experimenting went into creating all these changes.

Edited January 5, 2017 by RISCy

[goldstripes]

On 12/5/2016 at 10:54 PM, Didumos69 said:

You are mixing up the minimal and the ultimate version. For the minimal version the pdf and (short) parts list can be found on Rebrickable. This version only applies the modifications needed to get the shifting mechanism working and to eliminate the most severe friction in the drivetrain. The ultimate version is only available as LDD-file and there won't be an instructions-pdf for that version soon. The OP of this thread provides more info.

sir, does it mean that the 403 parts for ultimate version are entirely separate from the 30 parts for minimal version? will probably purchase the parts for ultimate version and just wait for the instructions/pdf format as I am having issues opening the lxf file. :( looking forward for more of your improvements...absolutely amazing work :) :) :) 

[Seasider]

Finally got my Porsche and I have the 30bits for the minimal mod in this link.

 

the question is to sticker or not ? My model will be built, displayed for a while (couple of months I guess) and then it'll get packed away in its box until I decide to build it again. So should I apply the stickers or not ?

thoughts?

[Tecon]

@Seasider - you can safely apply the stickers, none of them is on more that 1 part, and it looks better. Details.

There is also no problem building it again with stickers - they all are shown in instruction quite fast after the part you should put them on.

[brickhank]

Talking about stickers: found additional stickers on the internet especially made and pre-cut for this model. See the pictures below of my finished build of Didumos69 ultimate playable version. This build is amazing !

I think the extra stickers really complete it

After nearly 30 years of not touching LEGO, I think this build really got me into it again. I am already considering ordering the missing part to build this MOC: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/crowkillers/scorpion-ck-r-supercar, although that means I have to disassemble the mighty Porsche. But hey: than I can re-assemble it again after I get tired of the mentioned MOC...

[Didumos69]

On 20-1-2017 at 5:57 PM, Seasider said:

Finally got my Porsche and I have the 30bits for the minimal mod in this link.

 

the question is to sticker or not ? My model will be built, displayed for a while (couple of months I guess) and then it'll get packed away in its box until I decide to build it again. So should I apply the stickers or not ?

thoughts?

On 20-1-2017 at 11:23 PM, Tecon said:

@Seasider - you can safely apply the stickers, none of them is on more that 1 part, and it looks better. Details.

There is also no problem building it again with stickers - they all are shown in instruction quite fast after the part you should put them on.

9 hours ago, brickhank said:

Talking about stickers: found additional stickers on the internet especially made and pre-cut for this model. See the pictures below of my finished build of Didumos69 ultimate playable version. This build is amazing !

I think the extra stickers really complete it

 

After nearly 30 years of not touching LEGO, I think this build really got me into it again. I am already considering ordering the missing part to build this MOC: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/crowkillers/scorpion-ck-r-supercar, although that means I have to disassemble the mighty Porsche. But hey: than I can re-assemble it again after I get tired of the mentioned MOC...

Given the level of detail of this model, I can imagine that applyinmg stickers - even the third-party ones - actually add something. I never apply stickers myself, but that's not important.

@brickhank, good to know that you actually finished this MOD. Building Paul Boratko's Scorpion as a next step seems like a good choice to me! And after that of course my Rugged Supercar .

Edited January 21, 2017 by Didumos69

[Seasider]

Think I'll keep mine "pure" with out trying to find those extra side stickers. They do look good but all the promo shots of the real car I find are without them, I assume they're an option like most things on a Porsche!

 

but my main question about the stickers was how robust are they. Do they stick really well and last a long time and if I box it away survive contact with other bricks ?

[brickhank]

15 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Given the level of detail of this model, I can imagine that applyinmg stickers - even the third-party ones - actually add something. I never apply stickers myself, but that's not important.

@brickhank, good to know that you actually finished this MOD. Building Paul Boratko's Scorpion as a next step seems like a good choice to me! And after that of course my Rugged Supercar .

@Didumos69: Hmmm, I think I might have a new problem now: finding enough time (and not to forget money to acquire all missing parts...) for all these great MOC's...

I will first concentrate on @Paul Boratko's Scorpion, but will definitely monitor your Rugged Supercar build; this also looks very COOL and hard to resist to get into...!

[RISCy]

Finally I received all parts to build the ultimate version... I started yesterday and ended up disassembling everything but the body and the motor. While it does somewhat work, using the LDD to create the building steps is really a pain, since the order in which the automatic building manual function arranges the steps does not work most of the time. I already tried exporting the Ultimate version to Ldraw (using the latest ldraw.xml found here) but since there is no stepping and even the subgroups don't translate to the ldr-file, I can't make a building manual any other way.

Using the LDD manual I already build the steering / shifting unit, parts of the underlying frame and the beginning of the front axle.

Is there a possibility to create (better) working instructions or has anybody, that already build the ultimate version, a few tips on how to approach the build?

[Tecon]

Same question, 

I'm still waiting for few parts for the Ultimate version, 

but @Didumos69, when do you see the last change (doors) so the MOD is finished, and we can start to expect some kind of instruction? 

For now my plan is to build directly from LDD, but its pain

[brickhank]

@RISCy: I understand what you mean, but it is possible to build it based on the LDD model, without additional building steps. Make use of the groups and select multiple parts of the model and by inverse selection (temporarily) delete the parts around it that you're not interested in at that moment. Don't forget to undo after completing the specific part and don't save the model with the deleted parts of course.

It takes patience, but it's part of the fun in my opinion and get's you really into the design of the model. See my post of January 1st above for some of my lessons learned.

Good luck !

[RISCy]

@Tecon Since I also wanted to implement the "closing doors mod" I made a bricklink parts list from this video that was posted in this thread. The video is quite easy to follow to get the instructions on how to build the mechanism.

If you like, I can send you the list

@brickhankThank you for the quick reply! So far I had the model open not only in LDD but also in LDCad to find out which parts are missing when there is a gap left in the instructions generated by LDD. This way I was at least able to build as far as decribed above. Your approach seems a lot more reasonable. If I find the time, I'll try it this way this evening...

Edited January 23, 2017 by RISCy

[Didumos69]

On 9-1-2017 at 3:28 AM, goldstripes said:

sir, does it mean that the 403 parts for ultimate version are entirely separate from the 30 parts for minimal version? will probably purchase the parts for ultimate version and just wait for the instructions/pdf format as I am having issues opening the lxf file. :( looking forward for more of your improvements...absolutely amazing work :) :) :) 

Yes they are entirely separate. You only need the 403 parts for the ultimate version. For the minimal version you only need the 30 parts.

@RISCy, @Tecon, sorry for this late response. To be honest, I have moved on to my next project, so I'm afraid the lockable doors will not be implemented any time soon. There are by the way two lockable door versions that I know of and the one that I had in mind was in fact @DayWalker's version. In my opinion the one that can be found on youtube comes too close to the left paddle shifter. The one shared by DayWalker uses silicon bands.

But the main reason to not include the lockable doors is that I simply don't get to it. You could of course always apply one of the versions yourself.

 

As for the instructions: I do not plan for full-blown instructions. I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version.

If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers:

• You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction.
• Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play.
• When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference.
• Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion.
• Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs.
• Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4 which are needed to make the body removable.

Edited January 24, 2017 by Didumos69

[aefferen]

3 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Yes they are entirely separate. You only need the 403 parts for the ultimate version. For the minimal version you only need the 30 parts.

@RISCy, @Tecon, sorry for this late response. To be honest, I have moved on to my next project, so I'm afraid the lockable doors will not be implemented any time soon. There are by the way two lockable door versions that I know of and the one that I had in mind was in fact @DayWalker's version. In my opinion the one that can be found on youtube comes too close to the left paddle shifter. The one shared by DayWalker uses silicon bands.

But the main reason to not include the lockable doors is that I simply don't get to it. You could of course always apply one of the versions yourself.

 

As for the instructions: I do not plan for full-blown instructions. I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version.

If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers:

• You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction.
• Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play.
• When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference.
• Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion.
• Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs.
• Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4 which are needed to make the body removable.

If you search for aefferen you find my building instructions where the cideo one for lockable doors is included

[RISCy]

@aefferen: Thanks a lot... I already had a look at your manual. Nice work! Hopefully I can continue building this weekend and then I see the lockable doors solution that you included.

[goldstripes]

On 1/25/2017 at 6:43 PM, RISCy said:

@aefferen: Thanks a lot... I already had a look at your manual. Nice work! Hopefully I can continue building this weekend and then I see the lockable doors solution that you included.

would you happen to have the link to that PDF file? tried searching for it but did not have any luck finding it..thanks

On 1/24/2017 at 6:13 PM, Didumos69 said:

Yes they are entirely separate. You only need the 403 parts for the ultimate version. For the minimal version you only need the 30 parts.

thanks @Didumos69 i actually purchased both sets (403 and 30) as i was unsure in the beginning if they are separate or not..will just keep the extra parts for future use :)

On 1/21/2017 at 9:47 PM, brickhank said:

Talking about stickers: found additional stickers on the internet especially made and pre-cut for this model. See the pictures below of my finished build of Didumos69 ultimate playable version. This build is amazing !

I think the extra stickers really complete it

After nearly 30 years of not touching LEGO, I think this build really got me into it again. I am already considering ordering the missing part to build this MOC: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/crowkillers/scorpion-ck-r-supercar, although that means I have to disassemble the mighty Porsche. But hey: than I can re-assemble it again after I get tired of the mentioned MOC...

WOW! that definitely looked way better than the plain doors :) BTW would you happen to have the list of extra parts needed for the Scorpion MOC? thanks 

[Tecon]

48 minutes ago, goldstripes said:

BTW would you happen to have the list of extra parts needed for the Scorpion MOC? thanks 

just compare it with Porsche on Rebrickable. 

https://rebrickable.com/build_set?s=MOC-6214&setlist=1&partlist=1&s1=42056-1

over 700 parts missing 

[RISCy]

4 hours ago, goldstripes said:

would you happen to have the link to that PDF file? tried searching for it but did not have any luck finding it..thanks

There you go (from the original post of @aefferen): 

Although not finished yet I wanted to share release one of my Porsche enhancement magazine. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AAHsqH4f-2LZmQ8

[goldstripes]

thanks @Tecon i guess there's no other way but to compare manually . 700 additional parts seem to be a bit discouraging though..

 

thanks @RISCy. can't wait for my parts to arrive so i can begin building @Didumos69's ultimate version mod 

[brickhank]

51 minutes ago, goldstripes said:

thanks @Tecon i guess there's no other way but to compare manually . 700 additional parts seem to be a bit discouraging though..

 

thanks @RISCy. can't wait for my parts to arrive so i can begin building @Didumos69's ultimate version mod 

Hi @goldstripes, manual comparison is not needed. If you make a rebrickable acoount and add the Porsche to your set list and the additional parts for @Didumos69 "ultimate playable" version to your parts list in your account, you can just hit the "Build this MOC !" button for the Scorpion MOC and it automatically generates the missing parts list for you. Which can be exported to e.g. Bricklink for purchasing parts, etc...

(found all of this out in the last few weeks myself... )

[goldstripes]

4 hours ago, brickhank said:

Hi @goldstripes, manual comparison is not needed. If you make a rebrickable acoount and add the Porsche to your set list and the additional parts for @Didumos69 "ultimate playable" version to your parts list in your account, you can just hit the "Build this MOC !" button for the Scorpion MOC and it automatically generates the missing parts list for you. Which can be exported to e.g. Bricklink for purchasing parts, etc...

(found all of this out in the last few weeks myself... )

thanks @brickhank i'll give that a try :-)

[RISCy]

@Didumos69& @Tecon: finally I finished the build... I used only Ldd. Sadly there is still too much friction in gearbox somewhere or the 2 blue pins in the sleeve so not create enough friction to lock the rear axle to the gearbox. I triple checked all the gears, but still no luck. Any ideas? Would locking up the axle with 2 axles instead of the pins cause any harm? 

The paddle shifter unit and the steering hog work fine. Also the shifting hog works most of the time (I didn't make the change to the vertical panel though) 

[Didumos69]

2 hours ago, RISCy said:

@Didumos69& @Tecon: finally I finished the build... I used only Ldd. Sadly there is still too much friction in gearbox somewhere or the 2 blue pins in the sleeve so not create enough friction to lock the rear axle to the gearbox. I triple checked all the gears, but still no luck. Any ideas? Would locking up the axle with 2 axles instead of the pins cause any harm? 

The paddle shifter unit and the steering hog work fine. Also the shifting hog works most of the time (I didn't make the change to the vertical panel though) 

Locking up the axle won't do any harm I think. The linear clutch is there to protect your gears when the gearbox halts while you push your model along. But the chance of a halting gearbox is reduced to almost zero by the 90 degree limiter and the extended change-over catches. However, you should get it working with the linear clutch.

The drive train is somewhat complex and makes getting all gears to rotate freely quite a hassle. This is why I have chosen for a far more simple drive train in the Rugged Supercar I'm working on. To locate friction I always start with removing the wheels. Then I rotate the drivetrain by hand. To feel what's going on in the gearbox I usually set the DNR-gearbox in neutral and push the 20t thin gears in the H-frame by hand. I push those gears until I feel the friction. Then I keep on pushing, but just not enough to set the gears in motion. At this point I check all gears with my other hand. You can feel it when one is troubled by friction. Hope this helps.

To avoid the shifting HoG from slipping you really need to make those changes to the vertical panel.

 

Edited January 28, 2017 by Didumos69

[RISCy]

@Didumos69: thank you very much for your detailed answer! I will try locating the gears(s) putting the friction in the system. 

Building your version with all the modifications really gives a better understanding of all the workings of the model. The shifter unit and the 90° lock is really ingenious. Thanks again for your work! I will post how it went.