Appie Posted August 6, 2016 Posted August 6, 2016 That was one of the reasons I wanted to build it in blue. JamesJT already ran with the colour though I like how it pops, feels like a summer Jeep. Jeep does make them in blue though, this was one of the first images that popped when I searched on google for "Jeep Wrangler Rubicon" before I ordered the parts, because I didn't want to make it in a colour that wasn't even one of Jeep's choices for the car: I didn't even consider gray or tan (the latter is hardly possible I think with Technic parts). I wanted something that popped and like you said something you don't see often. Quote
sdotcarter Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 I'm Having trouble with my gearbox working correctly. Seems there is alot of grinding switching gears and no power. Yes I've changed battery boxes and have fresh batteries. @ 1:53 in your video you show the gear shifting mechanism. And I noticed there are some differences between your video and my instructions. Can you check page 96 and tell me if im missing something? Quote
Askan Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 Appie, the blue version of this car looks fantastic. Really really beautiful. Sheepo, you really never stops to amaze. Great work! Quote
Appie Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 I'm Having trouble with my gearbox working correctly. Seems there is alot of grinding switching gears and no power. Yes I've changed battery boxes and have fresh batteries. @ 1:53 in your video you show the gear shifting mechanism. And I noticed there are some differences between your video and my instructions. Can you check page 96 and tell me if im missing something? So there's a grind when switching? Not when drving? For a grind while shifting make sure those 3 brackets (the things from page 86-88) with the ball joints move freely for the camshafts (the thing you build on page 97) to cycle through them. I had a little hickup there at first as well. If the grind is from the diff lock, 2WD>4WD, High/Low gearbox make sure all the 2L liftarms with axle and pinhole are positioned correctly (correct sequence in BI) and also for the thin 2L liftarms with axle holes. I followed the same BI and it works, so hope you can work it out. Appie, the blue version of this car looks fantastic. Really really beautiful. Thanks Quote
sdotcarter Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 grinding while driving. Switching gears seams to work fine but it just doesnt drive well. Quote
Appie Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 Besides making sure everything runs freely (which can be quite a task in this gearbox), make sure the driving rings are fully engaged and check if they don't disengage while the car is moving, this causes alot of gear grind in my experience. Another experience I had with grinding was where one of the 6L axles (Page 72, step 3) moved and wasn't secured on 1 end by the half liftarm anymore. To prevent this from happening again, I replaced it with a 7L axle and replaced the bush on that axle with 2 half bushes (page 73, step 6). Didn't have to take the gearbox apart for this fix, I just slided it in from the rear and used some small pliers to get the half bushes in place on the axle Quote
KikoTube Posted August 12, 2016 Posted August 12, 2016 Hey Sheepo, could you please send us a Picture of the Bottom? KikoTube Quote
Blakbird Posted August 24, 2016 Posted August 24, 2016 Just finished building this last weekend. I wanted it to look like a totally scale model, so I bought some aftermarket R/C tires with a scale BF Goodrich pattern. They are pretty large so I needed to build with the portal axle option for extra suspension height. After several hours with a paint pen, I was able to give the tires raised white letters. I love the result. Quote
Superfield Posted August 24, 2016 Posted August 24, 2016 Just finished building this last weekend. I wanted it to look like a totally scale model, so I bought some aftermarket R/C tires with a scale BF Goodrich pattern. They are pretty large so I needed to build with the portal axle option for extra suspension height. After several hours with a paint pen, I was able to give the tires raised white letters. I love the result. How do you like its functions? Based on others reviews I have a feeling that the mechanism may be too complicated to the point that it is not reliable or performant. Quote
2LegoOrNot2Lego... Posted August 24, 2016 Posted August 24, 2016 This is awesome, ends up very realistic with these tires!!! :wub: Quote
Blakbird Posted August 24, 2016 Posted August 24, 2016 How do you like its functions? Based on others reviews I have a feeling that the mechanism may be too complicated to the point that it is not reliable or performant. I suppose that depends on your expectations. There's a reason that real electric vehicles do not have gearboxes. In a LEGO model like this, it is really a demonstration of the mechanical principles involved rather than a way to drive faster or with more torque. In that I think it succeeds admirably. The transfer case is really cool. It has four modes: RWD, 4HI, 4LO, and 4LOCK. You can surely see the difference when you have the vehicle elevated and watch the tires. The locking diffs are a really good trick. The main gearbox with 5 speeds and reverse works fine, but you won't see a huge difference in actual driving speed because you are limited by the power of the battery box. You can see the difference better with the tires off the ground. It is not 100% reliable. Sometimes multiple driving rings engage at the same time. But I found the whole build experience very fun and educational. Many times I thought, "what is this part supposed to do?" only to figure it out 30 steps later when the final detail was installed. Quote
Superfield Posted August 24, 2016 Posted August 24, 2016 I suppose that depends on your expectations. There's a reason that real electric vehicles do not have gearboxes. In a LEGO model like this, it is really a demonstration of the mechanical principles involved rather than a way to drive faster or with more torque. In that I think it succeeds admirably. The transfer case is really cool. It has four modes: RWD, 4HI, 4LO, and 4LOCK. You can surely see the difference when you have the vehicle elevated and watch the tires. The locking diffs are a really good trick. The main gearbox with 5 speeds and reverse works fine, but you won't see a huge difference in actual driving speed because you are limited by the power of the battery box. You can see the difference better with the tires off the ground. It is not 100% reliable. Sometimes multiple driving rings engage at the same time. But I found the whole build experience very fun and educational. Many times I thought, "what is this part supposed to do?" only to figure it out 30 steps later when the final detail was installed. Very fair. It is always very helpful to read the comments about a model from an experienced builder like you :) Quote
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