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Posted

I think this is the same gearbox as the Mercedes Gullwing which is supposed to be more reliable. I am also curious about how reliable it is, the success rate. And how it performs when driving. The video doesn't seem to do the justice.

Posted (edited)

Is the new gearbox more reliable than Mustang one? Could you tell how big approximately in studs is the gearbox alone?

Yes, it is more reliable, but you need to stop the gearbox motor by yourself instead of the autostop mechanism like the Mustang, it is less confortable but much more reliable.

I hope this image can answer your question about the size ;)

2016-04-20%2B18.19.47.jpg

I think this is the same gearbox as the Mercedes Gullwing which is supposed to be more reliable. I am also curious about how reliable it is, the success rate. And how it performs when driving. The video doesn't seem to do the justice.

The gearbox is not the same as the MB, but is based on it. It works better than any other 5+R gearbox I have ever built.

Edit:

The part list are now available in rebrickable

Edited by Sheepo
Posted

As I see it is 6 or 7 studs tall from the bottom to the top where liftarms next to changeover catches are placed. Can you confirm that?

Is the yellow shock absorber part of gear changing mechanism?

Posted

I bought the instructions to this model mostly for the learning experience. I started with the drivetrain - I'm about two-thirds of the way through the section and I've already got far more than my money's worth. The sheer complexity and solidity (despite the half-stud fest) of this build are mind-boggling.

Posted (edited)

Rebrickable says I have 85.7% of the pieces for this. Looks like I have most everything in a different color to build, but I'm wondering about the 16L axle.

Is it needed or could I join a bunch of axles together?

EDIT:

Just Bought the instructions for 17.~~ US Dollar, and the $120 worth of missing parts. So, forget my question above.

(I have a big red jeep just like this so I couldn't resist.)

@Sheepo, You say its not trial worthy, will it atleast drive around my yard through grass and such?

Edited by sdotcarter
Posted

I will respond your first question anyway: you can not use 2 axles intead of 16L axle.

And about the jard, it is hard to say, but with trial axles you shouldn't have problems, but driving very slow, with standar axles I don't know if you will can honestly.

Posted (edited)

Well just bought the instructions and because "red is red" and "white is the new red", I ordered the parts for the bodywork to make it in blue :sweet: Little problem with this part not existing in blue, but it seems doable to replace these for different parts in blue. Hope the parts come within the next month so I can start building. Thanks Sheepo for yet another awesome model and once again making instructions for them.

Edited by Appie
Posted (edited)

It is in the same scale as the 300SL(well, almost, 1/10.5 vs 1/10). It is only 23 studs wide. The 300SL is 21-wide, and my old big Land-Rover 28-wide to compare...

Edited by Sheepo
Posted

@Sheepo: I'm planning on running this with a custom 12v battery box. Since I have not been able to build it yet; do you think there are any weaknesses in the drivetrain that 12v xl motors may break?

Posted

Fantastic MOC! I don't often delve into the Technic forum, but I know enough to say that this is really good. :thumbup: One small issue I noticed... you're missing the Jurassic Park logos! :laugh:

that is so true ^^^^^^^^^

Posted (edited)

EDIT: Fixed it I'd misplaced something and rechecked instructions.

EDIT2: Is Page 82 Step 19 correct where one of the u-joints can freewheel?

Edited by sdotcarter
Posted

I'm at page 180 and am hopefully almost done the transmission.

I'd do a WIP but I may be too far ahead. Sheepo, this is a complex mechanism you've made, How do you create such things?

For anyone like me , who uses lego as a brain workout, this jeep is a must build. I almost bought more parts so I could display the transmission separate.

I'm used to regular Lego building and Sheepo's halfstud build is mind blowing. Id say a 21+ set if Lego were to release it.

I'm at day 5 at about 30 hours and the horizion is not yet seen. (Although I'm sorting while building).

Please guys buy the instructions sheepo's crazy.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well after numerous hours and days I got the MOC done as a rolling chassis. Was driving it around playing with the controller and it started grinding and stopped when a 16t gear fell out on the floor. I looked at the transmission assembly and the two center 8t gears Pictured on page 73 step 6 rode off their 2l red axles and are now crooked.

Looks like Ill have to disassmble the whole transmission and rebuild.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well after waiting a bit on BL orders (and forgetting a few minor parts, which had to be ordered also), here is Sheepo's Rubicon in blue:

fbb8ece91c27b709a6b6345cd6a09052.jpg

84e25acd40e03d473c34b78b79034cfc.jpg

Also decided to put some blue in the engine:

654c369d568397b4a715f15fc6151812.jpg

You can also see one of the adjustments I had to make to the hood for this part, because it doesn't exist in blue. For the rims I decided to use yellow because I had a couple left from a Volvo loader. Decided to touch up the interior as well with yellow seats and the search lights on top of the window as well with a touch of yellow (yellow 2x2 round plate instead of LBG). I like how it turned out.

I heard people in this topic claiming it looks huge and doubt its 1:10 scale, so I decided to grab my 1:8 Sheepo Mustang for a comparison shot:

b013dc692fa63da4f18ed50e31f04e78.jpg

Despite using the same size wheels the Mustang is alot longer.

The model is great and works pretty well. I love the use of the bush for a 2WD>4WD switch. I haven't seen the good old bush used for a long time to get a technical advantage in a model, very cool. I love the whole mechanism to switch from low and high gearing and to lock the diff or not as well, works really well. I can only hope and dream to achieve this kind of Lego engineering one day, but during the build I did wonder a few things, mainly the use of 4 8T gears in a row in the gearbox. I can feel the model struggle with this in reverse, 2nd and especially in 4th. Gears 1, 3 and 5 work perfectly and even reverse and 2nd work very well, so it doesn't look to be like a friction issue in the gearbox in general. But in 4th, it's actually slower than in 3rd. I think alot of energyy is lost in this 4x 8T gear setup and really shows in 4th. "In front" of the gearbox there is room to use 2x 24T gears instead (though this would require an adjustment to gears of the XLs drivetrain to the gearbox) and I wonder why this choice was made for the 8T gears. I haven't tested the 2x 24T gear configuration, because it means I would have to tear down the whole drivetrain to adjust this and since the other gears work smooth I decided to just "skip" 4th. Of course it is entirely possible I made an error somewhere and 4th is supposed to be the smoothest of them all or just as smooth as the others, in that case I apologize and you can ignore this remark.

Have another image of the Sheepo "buddies"

e684207b9ac57240612c9a066df85265.jpg

Looking forward to your next model Sheepo!

Edited by Appie

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