[MOD] 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS - Community-driven Errata

[Didumos69]

The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF.

The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism:

• I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review.
• I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika).
• I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands.
• I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead.
• I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once.
• I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here).

The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train:

• I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report.
• I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox.
• I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme.
• I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme.
• I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement.
• Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox.

The errata include a 4^th-to-1^st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain.

For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.

If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct.

Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements!

Edited November 8, 2016 by Didumos69

[Rainbow]

Thanks for such a detailed errata. Great work of all who participated in it.

[ddeklerk]

I quickly scanned over the pdf file, and I plan to rebuild box 1 with all these changes sometime soon™, but what are the steps without any additional parts about? Do they replace steps from the original instructions where parts were added that are now omitted?

Oh, and I should have said this sooner, but adding the thin 2l liftarms in step 105 was not necessary for me. In fact, without the offset, the driving rings would be perfectly centered between the red gears when they are not engaged. Maybe this is because I did not apply all the changes yet, though.

In any case, your work is greatly appreciated. It is insane how much time you put into improving this set.

[Didumos69]

I quickly scanned over the pdf file, and I plan to rebuild box 1 with all these changes sometime soon™, but what are the steps without any additional parts about? Do they replace steps from the original instructions where parts were added that are now omitted?

Oh, and I should have said this sooner, but adding the thin 2l liftarms in step 105 was not necessary for me. In fact, without the offset, the driving rings would be perfectly centered between the red gears when they are not engaged. Maybe this is because I did not apply all the changes yet, though.

In any case, your work is greatly appreciated. It is insane how much time you put into improving this set.

Thanks!

The steps that do not add any parts do indeed replace steps that can actually be ommitted. I included them just to show what your build should look like at that stage. I explain that in the document itself too.

After implementing the 90 degree limiter, the positions of the driving rings are indeed perfect when they are centered. However, when they engage the rear clutch gear, they squeeze that gear against the liftarm behind it. This causes friction. After inserting the 2L thin levers the driving rings are maybe no longer perfectly centered, but this does not cause any gear to be engaged unintendedly and the friction is gone.

Edited July 15, 2016 by Didumos69

[ddeklerk]

I explain that in the document itself too.

I figured as much. Perhaps I should not take a peek when I am at work when I do not have the time to read through the whole thing. But it is just so exciting

After implementing the 90 degree limiter, the positions of the driving rings are indeed perfect when they are centered. However, when they engage the rear clutch gear, they squeeze that gear against the liftarm behind it. This causes friction. After inserting the 2L thin levers the driving rings are maybe no longer perfectly centered, but this does not cause any gear to be engaged unintendedly and the friction is gone.

Goes to show how many improvements you made to the set. I like to think that I followed the development of these mods pretty closely, but I guess I missed the part about the driving rings causing friction.

[technic_addict]

I would like to thank everyone who has participated and especially Didumos69 who took the lead with the vast majority of mods and improvements. Also a big thank-you for putting into one document with easy to follow instructions for us lazy folk!

I now have a reason to bust open the box and build it!

[Didumos69]

I would like to thank everyone who has participated and especially Didumos69 who took the lead with the vast majority of mods and improvements. Also a big thank-you for putting into one document with easy to follow instructions for us lazy folk!

I now have a reason to bust open the box and build it!

Thanks!

I would appreciate it if you report on your experience with these errata after finishing your build. Good luck!

[technic_addict]

Thanks!

I would appreciate it if you report on your experience with these errata after finishing your build. Good luck!

Will do. I have had a look at the pdf and it looks quite straight forward and clear. Out of curiosity, why didn't you include the body removal mod?

[Didumos69]

Will do. I have had a look at the pdf and it looks quite straight forward and clear. Out of curiosity, why didn't you include the body removal mod?

I didn't want to go further than what I think can be regarded as true errata. This is how the set should have been released in my opinion. And as it would be hard to implement these mission-critical modifications after finishing the model, it seemed appropriate to present them in terms of BI-corrections. This is where I have drawn the line, also to make it a clear message to TLG.

Imo making the body removable is an add-on feature rather than a fix. It can also be applied fairly easily afterwards. The same for HoG steering.

Edited July 16, 2016 by Didumos69

[WvG_853]

Thanks for this great initiative! After the summer holidays I will order this set and start building making use of your errata list.

[Didumos69]

Thanks for this great initiative! After the summer holidays I will order this set and start building making use of your errata list.

You're welcome!

[Didumos69]

Also on rebrickable now: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Didumos/42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-unofficial-errata

[technic_addict]

I finished box 1 last night and 4th gear is not smooth and there is friction somewhere. The other three gears are flawless without much friction. The switching mechanism works flawlessly. I had a look to try and correct 4th gear but all gears seem to be loose so I gave up.

I also applied the removable HOG on the dash which was a bit of work because I don't have software to load the file your provided.

Thanks again for all the work done!

[charlesw]

The software is pretty easy to find : http://ldd.lego.com ;)

[technic_addict]

The software is pretty easy to find : http://ldd.lego.com ;)

No doubt, but I have no interest in downloading or learning it. I just want to mindlessly build ;)

[Didumos69]

I finished box 1 last night and 4th gear is not smooth and there is friction somewhere. The other three gears are flawless without much friction. The switching mechanism works flawlessly. I had a look to try and correct 4th gear but all gears seem to be loose so I gave up.

I also applied the removable HOG on the dash which was a bit of work because I don't have software to load the file your provided.

Thanks again for all the work done!

Getting all gears and axles to rotate without friction remains to be a hassle, I can't take that away.

Having trouble with 4th gear only is a bit odd. The problem should be somewhere inside the gearbox, which includes the area underneath the differential. 4th gear puts the least stress on the engine part of the drive train.

Pay special attention to the red clutch gears, they need not sit tight, whether engaged or not.

Edited July 19, 2016 by Didumos69

[nerdsforprez]

@didumos69 - I received my set a while back and more or less it is built. I have included all the changes above and will be implementing several of my own. Hopefully I can post them.... but as I am away for a business job I may not be able to for a while. Thank you for your hard work on this. I know it is kinda fun to get feedback regarding your efforts.... so consider yourself informed The friction reducing changes and other changes discussed above to the gear box work like a charm. Shifting on the set is flawless right now.

-- To all others... Thanks for the recommendations. Community-like projects such as this one are incredibly fun and informative.

[Ambroise]

Thank you for the initiative and for the hard work.

I appreciate having all the modifications in a single and clear pdf.

[Didumos69]

@didumos69 - I received my set a while back and more or less it is built. I have included all the changes above and will be implementing several of my own. Hopefully I can post them.... but as I am away for a business job I may not be able to for a while. Thank you for your hard work on this. I know it is kinda fun to get feedback regarding your efforts.... so consider yourself informed The friction reducing changes and other changes discussed above to the gear box work like a charm. Shifting on the set is flawless right now.

-- To all others... Thanks for the recommendations. Community-like projects such as this one are incredibly fun and informative.

Good to know everything works okay in your build after applying these mods. Indeed good to get some feedback!

Thank you for the initiative and for the hard work.

I appreciate having all the modifications in a single and clear pdf.

You're welcome!

[Borg561]

Just got my set today (ordered online June 1st) and I can't wait to start building. Awesome job on the errata, looking forward to including the changes as I build my car. However, I had a few questions.

First, as I don't really have any excess LEGO pieces laying around, I'm looking to buy the additional needed parts. Everything showed up in the online shop except #3713 LBG Technic Bush. I did find what I believe is the same piece in the set, Element 4211622 (Design #6590). Is this the correct piece?

Second, scanning the PDF, I see these errata include functionality to block 4 -> 1 shifts, but can't tell if it also blocks 1 -> 4 shifts.

Finally, does it fix the 4R problem that MaxSupercars detailed and fixed here and here? If not, any chance of adding that and updating the list of extra pieces needed? I'm wanting to buy and receive all the extra pieces needed before I start building.

Thanks!

Justin

[technic_addict]

Just got my set today (ordered online June 1st) and I can't wait to start building. Awesome job on the errata, looking forward to including the changes as I build my car. However, I had a few questions.

First, as I don't really have any excess LEGO pieces laying around, I'm looking to buy the additional needed parts. Everything showed up in the online shop except #3713 LBG Technic Bush. I did find what I believe is the same piece in the set, Element 4211622 (Design #6590). Is this the correct piece?

Yes.

Second, scanning the PDF, I see these errata include functionality to block 4 -> 1 shifts, but can't tell if it also blocks 1 -> 4 shifts.

You can only shift 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 3 > 2 > 1

Finally, does it fix the 4R problem that MaxSupercars detailed and fixed here and here? If not, any chance of adding that and updating the list of extra pieces needed? I'm wanting to buy and receive all the extra pieces needed before I start building.

No it does not include the 4R fix.

[Didumos69]

No it does not include the 4R fix.

I deliberately left out the reverse gear shifting block because it takes up a lot of space and still allows to shift from 4th gear to neutral and back. Besides that it weakens the way the gear stick is mounted. I think it's a work arround rather than a fix.

I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.

Edited July 26, 2016 by Didumos69

[Borg561]

I deliberately left out the reverse gear shifting block because it takes up a lot of space and still allows to shift from 4th gear to neutral and back. Besides that it weakens the way the gear stick is mounted. I think it's a work arround rather than a fix.

Thank you both. Reasoning behind leaving out the 4R fix makes sense. Ordered the needed parts, hoping to have them sooner rather than later.

[ddeklerk]

So I finally got the parts to implement all these changes and I now had the time to actually do it. The gears seem to have very little friction, and when I attach an M motor to test the gearbox, the gearbox turns smoothly. There is one problem though. The shifting order now is 3, 2, 1, 4. And the stop is between gears 1 and 4. But even without the stop, the swifting would be backwards. The right paddle should shift up, right?

[Didumos69]

Which paddle is for shifting up and which for shifting down is not affected by the errata, so I don.t know what could be wrong in your case. I don't have the model at hand.

The block should be between 1st and 4th gear. If not, the extra flap inside the H-frame is not placed correctly.

Edited July 28, 2016 by Didumos69