[MOD] 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS - Community-driven Errata

[ddeklerk]

Perhaps the shifting is reversed for me because I screwed something up when making the paddle assembly. I did completely rebuild box 1 after all. But I can't imagine something like that happening so easily. But just to be sure, maybe someone could verify this for me. When I pull the right paddle, the output of the paddle assembly goes clockwise. And it goes anti-clockwise when the left one is pulled.

I also triple checked that I had the shifting block in the correct orientation. So unless the errata is wrong or I am overlooking something, I don't think that is where the problem comes from. The 2l liftarm within the h-frame that is blocked is oriented in the same way that the same piece in orange (what the link is connected to) on the left of the car is, right?

In any case. Tomorrow I will look at it all again to see if I can find the cause of the problem.

EDIT

I found the problem. It was indeed something that I overlooked. I placed the 2l liftarm with the link on the right side of the car upside down. Correcting that fixed my shifting issue.

Edited July 29, 2016 by ddeklerk

[Didumos69]

Reasoning from the 3D-model in my head:

-The shifting block should indeed have the same orientation as the same orange piece at the left side of the gearbox.

-The right PDK-paddle is for shifting up (1-2-3-4) and the left paddle for shifting down (4-3-2-1). When shifting up, the PDK-output-axle rotates clockwise when looking at it from the driver's position.

EDIT: Corrected the above text. Should be clockwise.

Are you sure you reassembled the gearbox correctly? It's easy to switch some gears mistakenly.

Edited July 29, 2016 by Didumos69

[smitt]

Thanks!

I would appreciate it if you report on your experience with these errata after finishing your build. Good luck!

I'm a complete newb on the Technics front, but the Lego GT3RS was a must have for me. I did a lot of Googling while waiting for my set to arrive, and found your errata/instructions and ordered the necessary parts to follow your build!

All in all, I feel like it worked very well (I have no experience with the original instructions/build, just with these changes) but I have a few questions after completing my build:

1) I feel like the shifting is backwards. From what I would guess is first gear, I have to use the left paddle to shift to 2-3-4. I'm not sure if that's right or not, but it feels backwards. Can this be fixed?

2) The drivetrain seems to slip? From first gear, if I move the wheels the whole drivetrain/transmission moves. 2nd Gear seems to work okay too. But in 3rd and 4th, moving the wheels, it seems to "try" to move the transmission gears but can't, slips and the wheels move but the whole transmission doesn't. Can this be fixed?

I don't know if I've explained this well or not, but either way I'm very pleased with the whole thing! Thanks for the effort that went into the instructions and changes from everyone who contributed.

Thanks,

Smitt

Edited September 5, 2016 by smitt

[Didumos69]

I'm a complete newb on the Technics front, but the Lego GT3RS was a must have for me. I did a lot of Googling while waiting for my set to arrive, and found your errata/instructions and ordered the necessary parts to follow your build!

All in all, I feel like it worked very well (I have no experience with the original instructions/build, just with these changes) but I have a few questions after completing my build:

1) I feel like the shifting is backwards. From what I would guess is first gear, I have to use the left paddle to shift to 2-3-4. I'm not sure if that's right or not, but it feels backwards. Can this be fixed?

2) The drivetrain seems to slip? From first gear, if I move the wheels the whole drivetrain/transmission moves. 2nd Gear seems to work okay too. But in 3rd and 4th, moving the wheels, it seems to "try" to move the transmission gears but can't, slips and the wheels move but the whole transmission doesn't. Can this be fixed?

I don't know if I've explained this well or not, but either way I'm very pleased with the whole thing! Thanks for the effort that went into the instructions and changes from everyone who contributed.

Thanks,

Smitt

Thanks for your report!

About issue 1). I'm on vacation right now so I can't check what the right shifting directions are, but the errata should not change anything about them. Maybe someone can check what the shifting directions are supposed to be in a real life build?

About issue 2). This sounds like a friction problem. You have to make sure all individual axles that are part of the drive train have some play in all 4 gears. Also make sure there are no gears rubbing against adjacent liftarms. Especially the red cluth gears need substantial play. Even though the severe friction problems have been solved by the errata, this finetuning will remain to be a hassle, but it can certainly be done and is typical to the more complex drive trains with gearboxes etc.

Edited September 7, 2016 by Didumos69

[Didumos69]

Thanks to some feedback I received from @t12ung I have been able to improve the errata. No real corrections, but two additions that should reduce the chances on misinterpretation:

1. The blue 3L pins inserted in step 74 of the original building instructions have mistakenly been forgotten in step 75 and further of the errata. Step 74 of the original building instructions should not be omitted. I made a note on this in the errata.

2. When the orange (+0)-liftarms are put into place in step 100 of the errata, it's important to make sure the one to the left side of the gearbox aligns with the (+0)-liftarm inside the 5x11 H-frame. I incorporated the importance of this in step 100 of the errata.

The corrected PDF with errata is available via Rebrickable.

Edited October 15, 2016 by Didumos69

[oz the malefic]

Thanks very much for the file, my build went perfectly and have not had a single gearbox issue.

[Didumos69]

On 16-11-2016 at 2:05 PM, oz the malefic said:

Thanks very much for the file, my build went perfectly and have not had a single gearbox issue.

Good to know! And thanks for saying thanks! (On behalf of everybody who contributed.)

[charlesw]

I've build the Porsche 4 times :

• 1 using the community driven errata...
• ...later rebuild as the ultimate version (late august version)
• 1 using the standard lego instructions + step 5 fix for one of my colleague who likes the Porsche but wasn't  patient enough to build it
• 1 using the standard lego instructions + step 5 fix for a toy store in my area

 

I found out that :

• the community driven errata works well, the shiter improvements are nothing short of amazing
• the ultimate version is absolutely amazing, but I need to update it a little to keep up with Didumos' pace :-)
• the standard version + step 5 fix works great with some caveats I'll explain below

 

Regarding the standard version, and as not everyone is willing to open a BrickLink account to buy extra parts :

• you should pay extra attention to the engine block, it should run absolutely freely, and you may have to space out a little the crankshaft, if it is too tight, the engine won't run smoothly on its own, therefore creating extra unwanted friction
• on the shifting unit, changing the orientation of the two change-over-catch do not help that much...to me, doing so increases the risk of double engagement, thus locking the gearbox completely...
• regarding gear ordering, you can do what you want...since having 4 gears forward / 4 gears backward is completely unrealistic...actually, it might be on par with the gear ordering of some early cars xD
• regarding the gear lever / direction selector (the first thing build), everything should run absolutely smoothly, with almost no friction
• on the gearbox, it is really important to check that the red gears have some space to rotate freely, as they are quite a bit larger than the older grey ones
• on the rear axle, you should pay extra care on the differential, give each and every gear some space to move, and everything should rotate freely until you set up the shocks absorbers.

 

On a side note, I found way more enjoyable to build the Porsche's box 1 as separate modules (the front axle, the rear axle, the engine, the "engine decorations", ...) as this speed up considerably the assembly of the chassis (instead of having to put it aside to build everything in order)

Edited November 23, 2016 by charlesw

[polda]

Hi, so I built box1 using the PDF instructions. I really really thank you for such comfortable manual. I am not a typical Lego Technic geek so I was  a little afraid at first.. seeing all the mods but with your manual, ti was easy to follow :-)

Currently I have an issue with the friction clutch - I used some stuff to make the friction higher because as it was.. the engine did not revolve when turning the wheels. Now it is better but it seems I will have to rebuild the box1 and start from scratch.. which really does not bother me :-D Anyway.. so the friction clutch should work by itself? It is hard to describe what amount of friction is normal and when it starts to be too high..

Thanks...

 

[Didumos69]

@charlesw, thanks for your report! You must be able to build the Porsche out of your head by now .

It has also been reported that correcting the gear sequence only introduces more friction. Can you confirm that from your experience?

@polda, the friction clutch should actually never slip, its only purpose is to protect all gears when the gearbox halts, something that should only occasionally occur during shifts. So you have to make sure everything runs smoothly. It's hard to tell when you're at the right friction level, but you should be able to hear the difference between happily rattling gears and gears that are having trouble rotating.

[legolijntje]

I'll receive my Porsche next week (finally found a deal I was satisfied with, although I still think that even the sale price is still ridiculous) and I'm definitely going to build it with this errata by my side. But, I want to thank you already for your great work, Didumos  

Btw, are there any mods that are nice to have (in your opinion) that aren't in the errata which are best to include while building the set (instead of adding them afterwards)?

[dpkong]

Just completed the build and it's great. Thanks for the errata. Very easy to follow.

[Didumos69]

On 11/26/2016 at 11:56 AM, legolijntje said:

I'll receive my Porsche next week (finally found a deal I was satisfied with, although I still think that even the sale price is still ridiculous) and I'm definitely going to build it with this errata by my side. But, I want to thank you already for your great work, Didumos  

Btw, are there any mods that are nice to have (in your opinion) that aren't in the errata which are best to include while building the set (instead of adding them afterwards)?

 

2 hours ago, dpkong said:

Just completed the build and it's great. Thanks for the errata. Very easy to follow.

Thanks!

@legolijntje, yes there are two easy mods that I would incorporate immediately while building: HoG steering, which is included in the LDD-file mentioned in the OP of this thread. And the hispabrick removable body mod. I don't have the link at hand, but the video should be easy to find on YouTube. Both mods add a lot to (dis)playability. The latter mod can also be done afterwards.

Edited November 27, 2016 by Didumos69

[charlesw]

@Didumos69 as I've got yet another Porsche to build, I will try to apply Paul's gear sequence fix as well as the step 5 modification...and no I'm not yet able to build the Porsche using my memory alone 

[Didumos69]

3 hours ago, charlesw said:

@Didumos69 as I've got yet another Porsche to build, I will try to apply Paul's gear sequence fix as well as the step 5 modification...and no I'm not yet able to build the Porsche using my memory alone 

Great! Keep us posted !

[charlesw]

This will by my last Porsche GT3 RS for a while

[charlesw]

On 26/11/2016 at 10:28 AM, Didumos69 said:

@charlesw, thanks for your report! You must be able to build the Porsche out of your head by now .

It has also been reported that correcting the gear sequence only introduces more friction. Can you confirm that from your experience?

I've just finished box 1 & 2 and indeed, if you apply the gear sequence fix, you get a heck of a lot more of friction, the gearbox stalls on some gears.

[Didumos69]

13 hours ago, charlesw said:

I've just finished box 1 & 2 and indeed, if you apply the gear sequence fix, you get a heck of a lot more of friction, the gearbox stalls on some gears.

Thanks for coming back on this. This once more confirms the friction that is generated when clutch gears transfer drive on axles rotating at different speed. This is also why I set myself the target to avoid this in my AWD chassis FST NML.

There's a known issue with the red clutch gears that are not actually involved in one of the two clutches - the ones lined up between the normal 16t gears just in front of the actual gearbox. There is always one of them involved in transferring drive, which gives problems when its axle is forced into a very different rotation speed. This issue has been fixed in the errata.

Reasoning from the gear ratios in the gearbox I arrived at the following conclusions with respect to the RPM ratios between the mentioned red clutch gears and their axles for the situation with Boratko's fix:

• 1st gear, right clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 1:1
• 2nd gear, left clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 1:3
• 3rd gear, right clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 25:9
• 4th gear, left clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 1:1

So in 2nd and 3rd gear the axle of the involved red clutch gear rotates almost 300% faster or slower than the gear itself, Taking into account that the clutch gear will be pushed against its axle as it transfers drive, it's not strange that this causes severe friction. Especially in 2nd gear when the engine needs to rotate faster than in 3rd gear. Now let's see what the ratios are when we don't apply Boratko's fix:

• 1st gear, right clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 1:1
• 3rd gear, left clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 5:9
• 2nd gear, right clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 5:3
• 4th gear, left clutch gear involved, gear / axle RPM ratio is 1:1

These ratios are much better compared to the situation with Boratko's sequence fix. Especially 2nd gear, which has to work harder than 3rd gear, has a much better ratio. I think this explains the difference you and others are experiencing.

Actually, this would make the explanation given by TLG for having the 1-3-2-4 sequence partly correct. They said: "Too many gears are engaged at the same time and smooth running with all those tolerances is just not possible." Indeed, the 1-3-2-4 sequence allows for a more smooth running of the whole drive train. However the first part of the statement remains to be untrue, because in each gear all axles rotate and in each gear the same number of gears is involved in transferring drive from input to output.

Edited December 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[charlesw]

Regarding the ratios, this doesn't explain why many people couldn't get the gearbox to work properly even when using the official gear sequence...I cannot understand why seasoned technic builders cannot make it work properly. As you once stated, in this model you really need to give each and every gear a little room to move freely...if you don't the gearbox will not work properly.

Furthermore, TLG explaination makes sense, 42056 is marketted toward car enthousiasts that are not necessarily technic fans...part of the reason of why I did put together so many Porsche is because most potential buyers didn't care that much about the internals of this model and just want to build it (or pay someone to build it for them) in order for them to display this set on their desks at work to impress their co-workers...

In fact, having myself a Porsche on display at work alongwith PvDB's Koenigsegg One:1, Nathanael Kuipers Predator (and TLG's Catheram), I'm always getting questions about the Porsche...while the other two supercars didn't get that much attention despite them being a few orders of magnitude more interesting to build (and in my opinion PvDB's Koenigsegg is way better looking)...size & being orange seems to matter more to most people

[Tedd]

Quick question.  New to Technics as I imagine a lot of people are with this model.

I've built box 1 twice now and both times I have had some left over pieces.

The first time I was concerned, did some googling, and found this errata.  

So I took everything apart, ordered the pieces required for the MOC by Didumos, and rebuilt box 1 following the pdf. (great work btw!)

Again though I have some left over pieces, aside from the 24 that are listed as no longer used.  (btw only 23 of the 24 not used match)

Is this normal or should these pieces actually be on the car somewhere and I've missed it?  Would they be used in building the other boxes?

I almost want to just count out all the pieces I have and compare it to some sort of official parts list for the set.

[charlesw]

Hi it depends on what are your leftover pieces, but as a general rule, Lego includes quite a few spares within each set and those spares do vary from one box to another and do not appear on the piece inventory

Edited December 25, 2016 by charlesw

[ifilin]

Yesterday before NY my son with my help has built Porshe with all fixes from this errata.

And I must say, all works very well, even on 1st gear Porsche can be easy moved, without saying about 4th gear. :)

Thank You very much, Didumos.

Edited January 1, 2017 by ifilin

[Didumos69]

43 minutes ago, ifilin said:

Yesterday before NY my son with my help has built Porshe with all fixes from this errata.

And I must say, all works very well, even on 1st gear Porsche can be easy moved, without saying about 4th gear. :)

Thank You very much, Didumos.

Good to know! Have fun, both of you!

[tokenize]

Hello Didumos69. First, let me thank you for this community errata. It is an outstanding work. I was really impressed.

I first built box 1 with the original instructions, and despite the fact that I did not suffer from any gearbox friction issues, I was really annoyed by the gear shifting mechanism. It took too much force to move the shifter levers in my opinion and if you didn't pull the paddle to its full course, the shifting mechanism would become out of sync because the orange pieces would not rotate 90º. It was really annoying and a bad move from Lego on a 300€ set.

I rebuilt box 1 from scratch using your instructions and it was amazing! The way with which you guarantee that the levers always make the mechanism turn 90º degrees and the gear sequence limiter is nothing short of amazing. Really good work. The gearbox is also really smooth now, but to be honest, for me at least, it already was with the original build. Nonetheless, really good work. Lego should hire you :)

Now, just a quick question regarding the left over parts. After completing all the steps, I was left with a yellow cross axle extension, element id 4519010, which you do not mention in the left over part list:

There are 8 of these in total and all are used in the original instructions. However, using your errata, I count only 7, leaving one out.

This piece is used in the following steps:

Original: 19, 64, 65, 92, 124, 158, 238 and 274

Errata: 19, 27, 65, 92, 103, 124 and 158

I'm I missing something? I'm afraid I missed something.

Best regards

Edited May 6, 2017 by tokenize

[Woodstock89]

I need to chime in! After leaving my dark ages behind be last year, I discovered this community and the stunning work you guys accomplish!

Especially the threads regarding the 42056 Porsche and the enhancements made by Didumos69 and others are amazing!

Firstly, I built the model according to the original instructions, disassembled it and applied all the modifications from the Unofficial Errata. The improvements are awesome. The next project will be to disassemble it again and make it 'Ultimate Playable'. Since I have never worked with LDD, this will be a new learning exercise.

 

Back to topic: tokenize, I ended up with the same finding as you, I was left with one of these elements as well. Unless the both of us made the same mistake, I think this is an oversight in the Unofficial Errata. I believe, the connector in question is the one marked in the attached picture.