Since TLG has started building ferrari's in technic lego I couldn't keep stopping thinking of the ferrari gto 250 in lego.

Now I'm kinda struggling to start with the MOC, it starts of course with a chassis. This is where my problem starts..do you guys know the best way to start with a MOC?

I'm trying to build it in 1/10 scale and using the 68.8x36ZR wheels.

could someone help me to start with my build? many thanks for reading anyways..

ps. Updates will follow when I got started.

Greetz,

Mzzl88

I start with the front suspension cus it is the hardest then I do the back suspension then I connect the front and back then I do the body.

Edited August 25, 20168 yr by Lego2016Lego

Advice number 1. When you are done, do not sell instructions. Some companies are more lethargic then others about protecting their IP. Ferrari is not one of them. They protect their image and keep total control about where and how their brand is used. (Or get a proper licence).

(I design toys for a living, I also work on projects under car manufacturers licences. trust me )

I start with the front suspension cus it is the hardest then I do the back suspension then I connect the front and back then I do the body.

here Is one in lego http://netdna.walyou.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads//2009/05/ferrari-250-gto-lego-2.jpg

You´re welcome, can´t wait to see it ! What are you struggling with? What parts stock do you own / do you have to rip apart your other Ferraris? Is it a pure manual chassis or do you plan to put in some RC / PF? Gearbox? Do you want to use the Fiorano wheelcaps or consider 3d party covers? Did you scale the model already, at least its wheelbase?

All depends on your experience and how your ambitions are. If you want to do a manual car, look at Lipko´s various chassis. If you prefer to do something remote, check out Madoca´s latest creations.

EDIT: Sorry, it has a front motor, so you will have to check out some more examples out there - Crowkillers e.g. ...

Advice number 1. When you are done, do not sell instructions. Some companies are more lethargic then others about protecting their IP. Ferrari is not one of them. They protect their image and keep total control about where and how their brand is used. (Or get a proper licence).

(I design toys for a living, I also work on projects under car manufacturers licences. trust me )

Who is talking about selling instructions? Is it true they will sue him? Please tell something from your vast experience regarding Ferrari license issues! Examples from court apreciated. And how can I get a "proper" licence?

Edited August 25, 20168 yr by brunojj1

Who is talking about selling instructions? Is it true they will sue him? Please tell something from your vast experience regarding Ferrari license issues! Examples from court apreciated. And how can I get a "proper" licence?

I meant it as light-hearted advice related to topic that was discussed quite in detail recently on EB.

I have zero court experience, I only ever worked on projects under "proper" licences from car manufacturers (Mercedes in my case).

It works like this in short: "toy manufacturer approaches car manufacturer, presents its credentials, experience, references, records, intentions,

if car manufacturer is interested, toy manufacturer gets the licence, toy manufacturer designs the toy, car manufacturer approves it, toy manufacturer produces the toy,

toy manufacturer pays for licence"

That is about it.

Giving the scope of "instruction business" I thought "getting a proper licence" was obvious sarcasms (joke).

But advice about not making money on someone else's IP is not a joke. One should not do it. Not because or risk of legal consequences (might or might not happen) but because it is simply not right. But logic (as presented previously on EB), that if you make only a little money, it does not matter, is very wrong - it is about if IP owner feels: "this is hurting us"

But IP is my "job" so maybe I am biased.

Sorry for spoiling this topic with this "off-topic".

If any admin is here, feel free to delete it. Sorry.

Edited August 25, 20168 yr by J_C

thanks for the help so far everybody, for the instruction part..I won't produce any, this build is just pure for fun on my side.

I currently own the ferrari enzo, got a lot of red parts with the build of the T1 van and the VW designed by Sheepo.

the model will be manual, so no RC and if its possible a gearbox should be nice.

here Is one in lego http://netdna.walyou...-gto-lego-2.jpg

If seen this model, looks very cool however I hope to do it with parts instead of the tubing for the bodywork.

Sorry for spoiling this topic with this "off-topic".

If any admin is here, feel free to delete it. Sorry.

Thanks for reporting yourself. That shows character

We'll continue witht the topic at hand

GTO is very similar to a corvette; Corvette in black. GTO in white

corvette GTO overlay by James Tillson, on Flickr

You could copy my corvette and tweek the proportions a bit. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=134385

GTO is very similar to a corvette; Corvette in black. GTO in white

corvette GTO overlay by James Tillson, on Flickr

You could copy my corvette and tweek the proportions a bit. http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134385

I'm honored that you are letting me use your corvette as a base for my 250 gto, I couldn't find you how to video on Youtube..(Edit, found out why.. )

EDIT: just looked at the front suspension, I have the wishbones in a size bigger from my ferrari Enzo. The scale of my project should be a lit bigger than your corvette

Edited August 25, 20168 yr by mzzl88

I use the exact same scale and wheel combination for my cars, so I can give a few tips:

Unfortunately, the width of the 250 GTO is 1600mm. That's only 20 studs, and a full independent suspension with a differential and those wheels is a minimum of 25 studs (the limiting factor is the length of the joints). When I make models, if the width should be 23 or 24 studs then I'm willing to fudge it and build the car a tiny bit larger than 1:10 in order to get the suspension, but 20 is too narrow. Since the real car is 2WD, independent front suspension is fine, but you'll have to do something different on the rear (either swing-arm, live axle or some highly unconventional independent variant without joints).

I suggest that you start with the front and rear axles, then make a chassis with the correct wheelbase. Then add the piston engine and gearbox (if you're using one). While doing this, make SURE you don't use any red (or whatever colour the body will be) beams in the structure. You'll need to save red parts for the body. I usually build the internal workings in black.

Hard challange You have chosen, espeacially, if You rea not using soft axles, only panels and liftarms.

Always good to have enough red parts, especially all sorts of panels, of which diversity is the best in this color. Shaping the 250 GTO´s body will be a really ambitious, tough challenge indeed, even more if you decided to go “gapless” instead of flex axle frames. Nothing is impossible – e.g. look at Madoca´s Corvette Stingray!

Don´t overload your mind with the bodywork, first you´ll need some discipline for the chassis which is the true functional “Technic” core of the final result. The right scaling (not 1/10,5 or 1/11) is crucial for the final look. The old long suspension arms from the Enzo will add unnecessarily to the total width of the car. Like Mindgarage said, the usual width about 25 studs with “normal” steering arms #57515 is too much for most 1/10 scaled replicas. Crowkillers has made a floating axle 23 studs wide, maybe it can be suitable for your purpose: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92099&st=125#entry2347452

You should start with axles, then put the gearbox on priority and design everything else around it. Try to build it as compact and as low as you can, keep in mind to reserve the right height for the piston engine and enough space for the passengers ;-).

Get inspired by others, but don´t copy them because it´s Your dream car! Have fun!

Also, when you have some progress, don't be afraid of showing it here on the forums for feedback. That way you can get feedback specific to your build.

Thanks everybody for all the good advice, the build Will start next weekend. Any progress will be shown in this thread

May want to consider the 365gtb Daytona as it would be an even more Lego friendly shape for a classic front engine Ferrari. Early versions had a clear acrylic band on the nose before later models got pop up headlights,could make a neat detail doable in lego.

Edited August 27, 20168 yr by kevinb120

So the start has begun, first up was the front axle. This worked uit perfectly( with some help of the crowkillers page) in my opinion.

After that the rear was designed, not quite happy with that but it is a start.

The scale of the model will be 1:7.7 than I can build a nice gearbox in and the size should be cool ether.

Thanks to Sariel scale converter these are the measurement I have to stick to:

- Length 71 studs

- Width 27 studs

- Height 20 studs

- Wheelbase 37 Studs

Any help and suggestions are welcome.

Edited August 28, 20168 yr by mzzl88

Good start - any close-ups of the suspension?

Nice start!

But if you are building in that scale, it will most likely be very heavy, so try using two suspension springs.

Not sure if two springs will be needed. I tend to build cars slightly smaller than that (56x25x15 studs is typical), but my cars are built very densely and stuffed with MINDSTORMS. And I only use one spring.

It seems you know what you´re doing and don´t waste time and parts ! I like the unconventional but realistic rear axle, even it´s not rigid at this stage. Stiffness can always be added later by horizontal beams underneath or above. 1 shock absorber per side can be sufficient even for a bigger car (e.g. compared to Nick Barett´s heavy studded 250 GTO version!), it depends on the incline degree, parallelity and travel distance.

Now after your decision about going bigger - which wheels will you put on? Do you maybe think it would be better move the engine a bit backwards / transmission forwards? Or did you place the gearbox already where the gear lever is supposed to be? Using U-joints sometimes is not the ideal way to overcome inconvenient distances e.g. transfer by 1 “floor” up or down (friction, backlash, cracking parts), rather use T8 gears or a simpler odd 1 – 3 – 5 - … floor scheme for input/output connections. Of course at the rear axle you have to use at least one (if not the ball rack #92910/92911).

Edited August 29, 20168 yr by brunojj1

It seems you know what you´re doing and don´t waste time and parts ! I like the unconventional but realistic rear axle, even it´s not rigid at this stage. Stiffness can always be added later by horizontal beams underneath or above. 1 shock absorber per side can be sufficient even for a bigger car (e.g. compared to Nick Barett´s heavy studded 250 GTO version!), it depends on the incline degree, parallelity and travel distance.

Now after your decision about going bigger - which wheels will you put on? Do you maybe think it would be better move the engine a bit backwards / transmission forwards? Or did you place the gearbox already where the gear lever is supposed to be? Using U-joints sometimes is not the ideal way to overcome inconvenient distances e.g. transfer by 1 “floor” up or down (friction, backlash, cracking parts), rather use T8 gears or a simpler odd 1 – 3 – 5 - … floor scheme for input/output connections. Of course at the rear axle you have to use at least one (if not the ball rack #92910/92911).

At this moment the gearbox isn't yet in place, just a position to look if it will fit in the model. I'm not quite happy with it at this moment, just looking for a smaller gearbox without losing the 5 gears. Unfortunately I do not own a 8110 so the ball rack is not in my collection (yet).

Thank you for your vision on the chassis at this moment, I couldn't keep my eyes of your Laferrari....(wow wow wow, how cool)

Good start - any close-ups of the suspension?

Not sure if two springs will be needed. I tend to build cars slightly smaller than that (56x25x15 studs is typical), but my cars are built very densely and stuffed with MINDSTORMS. And I only use one spring.

At the moment I don't have close ups of the suspension, just because it is a WIP (to the moderators, I will change the topic in to WIP) and under construction. When finished (to my satisfying opinion) i will put some details up.

Everybody thanks for the help and feedback, the topic will change into WIP and I could still use the help during the build. (updates will follow of course)

EDIT: euh, moderators could you please be so kind to change the topic in to a WIP?

Edited August 29, 20168 yr by mzzl88

So the build starts to grow, now the gearbox has found a place on the chassis and is connected to the rear axle/engine.

Thanks brunojj1 for the tips about the T8 gears, used that to connect the gearbox with the engine.

For the wheels I'm looking to use the 81.6x36R, the scale is that big I think it will look good on the chassis

The rear axle has been connected and supported via various axles through the chassis, the leaf spring is just a feature and works well with the axle.

At this stage I'm trying to build the exhaust systeem from the engine all the way back, when finished I will upload more pictures.

Thank you for reading and please speak up your minds for tips and tricks.

Edited September 2, 20168 yr by mzzl88

Chassis weight is low now. Would soft axles still hold well once you build the body?

I'm not sure at this moment, therefore the springs in the rear axle should support the axle itself. If that doesn't works a second spring will be added

I love the Ferrari 250 GTO and I'm amazed by the progress you made till here. Have you finished it?