Jump to content
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Isn't too wide?

Models this scale have usually at about 31 studs wide..

When I build own such scaled truck I built firstly three smaller trucks: from tiny to the 62's wheels scale one.

Have to rebuild some places many times to get the well enough result at finish!

Anyway I wish you good luck and will look after this topic!

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)

Last picture...not good. You need to use the bracket for LA, in order to line up its rotating point with universal joint's central point.

In your setup, the whole lifting mechanism shakes at the most lifted position, and could damage the parts.

Edited by Milan
Posted

Last picture...not good. You need to use the bracket for LA, in order to line up its rotating point with universal joint's central point.

In your setup, the whole lifting mechanism shakes at the most lifted position, and could damage the parts.

Will do.

It is cool to see that you added some color to it! Nice... :-)

I am running out of parts :angry:

Last picture...not good. You need to use the bracket for LA, in order to line up its rotating point with universal joint's central point.

In your setup, the whole lifting mechanism shakes at the most lifted position, and could damage the parts.

Fixed it and thank you for telling me I was wondering how to do it :blush:
Posted (edited)

looks good! just a few questions, how wide is the bed in relation to the axles with all the double wheels on? and how is the steering working? I would think with the larger gear it might pull on the hubs too much, do you have any problems with it?

Edited by MRP_
Posted

looks good! just a few questions, how wide is the bed in relation to the axles with all the double wheels on? and how is the steering working? I would think with the larger gear it might pull on the hubs too much, do you have any problems with it?

As wide as it should and no.
Posted

I would fear that the weight of the beams alone, which make up the dump bed, have reduced the load that the actuators can tip. Also why do you have the two raised sections in the floor of the bed. Is that to make room for your L Motors powering the dump bed? If so, I would have repositioned the motors, and had a flat bed, and reused the panels (much lighter) on the sides of the dump bed.

Posted (edited)

The beams has reduced the load weight so much that the actuators can not even lift the bucket.

I am going to need redo everything :cry_sad:

Don't be discouraged, I've had days of progress that have needed to be rebuilt. Heck, I have rebuilt a Moc, and I am still not satisfied, I want to rebuild it. Try to take everyone's suggestions into the new rebuild. Maybe try to build in modules? Take the bucket and LA's and try to test it before you put it into the MOC. I've done this plenty of times and this seems to help me. Good Luck with your rebuild!

Edited by Buddy010702
Posted

If you could lower your pivot point slighly at the rear of the dump bed, this way the actuators would be pushing back as well as up. This does help in the initial start up of the lift. As presently the actuators are trying to push up from a near horizontal position.

Posted

Don't be discouraged, I've had days of progress that have needed to be rebuilt. Heck, I have rebuilt a Moc, and I am still not satisfied, I want to rebuild it. Try to take everyone's suggestions into the new rebuild. Maybe try to build in modules? Take the bucket and LA's and try to test it before you put it into the MOC. I've done this plenty of times and this seems to help me. Good Luck with your rebuild!

Thank you

haha :laugh:

DON'T GIVE UP !!! Love this thread :wink:

thank you

If you could lower your pivot point slighly at the rear of the dump bed, this way the actuators would be pushing back as well as up. This does help in the initial start up of the lift. As presently the actuators are trying to push up from a near horizontal position.

can you show me I don't get it.
Posted (edited)

That's great sketch :D

Anyway LegoLego, I have noticed that you constantly use one-sided connections. Your suspension springs for example. Or the linear actuators. Or nearly everywhere in the chassis construction. And worse, you use these blue axle pins for it. That makes for very weak connection. Not only it's easy to bend under any side torque, but the axle side of the pin (well and technically also the other side) tend to work it's way loose out of the axle hole.

In tecnic constructions, it's best to use the sandwich method, that you hold something in between two other parts - lets say shock absorber between two beams - so the fastener (doesn't matter whether it's 3L pin or some axle) is fixed on BOTH sides of the thing that you need to fix. That prevent it from falling off and heavily increases the lateral stiffness.

Of course, this is not 100% rule. Often you have to only use one sided connection, sometimes it's necessary due to the lack of space in small models. Well this is not small model. You have a ton of space everywhere and you desperately need stiffness in such heavy duty truck.

By the way the bucket looks weird in proportion. It's really wide for it's length. Also as mentioned by others, you NEED to get more panels :) Building this from beams is murder on these linear actuators.

I still wish you good luck with the porject but unlike others I can't let myself to fool you with naive positivity. As for now, your build has some critical flaws (main body stiffness, front suspension and steering, motor mounting, gear ratios) and taking this further without adressing them now will guide you into big issues.

Knowing that I'll get beaten for being discouraging and negative and also that I probably won't change your mind anyway, I say that you would do better starting over with some smaller model :)

Edited by krisandkris12
Posted

That's great sketch :D

Anyway LegoLego, I have noticed that you constantly use one-sided connections. Your suspension springs for example. Or the linear actuators. Or nearly everywhere in the chassis construction. And worse, you use these blue axle pins for it. That makes for very weak connection. Not only it's easy to bend under any side torque, but the axle side of the pin (well and technically also the other side) tend to work it's way loose out of the axle hole.

In tecnic constructions, it's best to use the sandwich method, that you hold something in between two other parts - lets say shock absorber between two beams - so the fastener (doesn't matter whether it's 3L pin or some axle) is fixed on BOTH sides of the thing that you need to fix. That prevent it from falling off and heavily increases the lateral stiffness.

Of course, this is not 100% rule. Often you have to only use one sided connection, sometimes it's necessary due to the lack of space in small models. Well this is not small model. You have a ton of space everywhere and you desperately need stiffness in such heavy duty truck.

By the way the bucket looks weird in proportion. It's really wide for it's length. Also as mentioned by others, you NEED to get more panels :) Building this from beams is murder on these linear actuators.

I still wish you good luck with the porject but unlike others I can't let myself to fool you with naive positivity. As for now, your build has some critical flaws (main body stiffness, front suspension and steering, motor mounting, gear ratios) and taking this further without adressing them now will guide you into big issues.

Knowing that I'll get beaten for being discouraging and negative and also that I probably won't change your mind anyway, I say that you would do better starting over with some smaller model :)

I am redoing it but it will be the same size.

I hope that this helpslego001_zpsgkxme2jk.jpg

thank you it is helpful!
Posted

You started an ambitious project, this does not mean it's impossible, just get ready to rebuild many times. If you have the patience to do it, you will gain in experience to complete this MOC and to make more and more better MOCs in the future.

Now, I don't want to discourage you, but you still have a bit of step to do, but you are young so you have planty of time!

What follows are my tips, but I think the best thing is that you do your mistakes and learn from them.

The overall width is excessive. I didn't research info about the specific model, but the width of the truck should be around 2500mm, in "Unimog Wheels scale", it may not exceed 31 studs, if the model is a road truck, and 29 if it is an off-road truck (and these are excess approximate widths).

You should try to build the 1st axle using the portal hubs, take inspiration from the Unimog or the Crawler. It must be very robust. Try to rotate the servo motor 90 ° along the longitudinal axis, so you may gain some space for the frame.

2 XL motors, if properly geared down, can work, but I think, given the probable weight, 4 of them would be a better choice.

The chassis itself must be strongly reinforced at every point, you have to consider a thickness of at least 5 beams where posssibile. It 'true that in real life the chassis works in torsion, but leaves a little of the work to the suspensions.:-)

The scheme suggested for the pivot point of the bed is the same that I used for my dump truck and it works, the panels help to reduce the weight of the structure, but it still remains very heavy, so you should consider to use a leverage system proposed some posts ago.

This is what I can suggest from my experience, but I think it's better if you make your own through the mistakes you will make.

Posted

Would 5x11 panels be lighter than 5 beams for sides of bucket?

Definitely, and it would look much better!

You could consider buying the 42043 set - that's got 13 light grey 5x11 panels, plus a load of other parts that you'll find useful.

Posted

sorry to come back to this, but I really wanted to give some input to this topic.

honestly, I don't know why this whole age thing is even starting any discussion. this is the internet, it's rare to find someone telling the truth about their age, it's just normal to lie about that stuff. for the most part, I think age restrictions like this, or age suggestions I guess, are kind of arbitrary. I think as long as you are mature enough to know what you're getting into, and are willing to deal with possibly inappropriate or just more mature topics, age doesn't really matter.

now back to the truck. sorry for going off topic again. good luck on your build, can't wait to see what you come up with!

Please use the report button next time. Stating that you are sorry about coming back to it, yet still making a post about it is not the way to go.

I have sent PM to both guys and let's end it with that :thumbup:

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

×
×
  • Create New...