Lego2016Lego Posted March 16, 2017 Author Posted March 16, 2017 (edited) Is this better? It has two differentials, is 4X4. and is more realistic. Edited March 16, 2017 by Lego2016Lego Quote
Myers Lego Technic Posted March 16, 2017 Posted March 16, 2017 (edited) That looks good! does the front axle collide with the servo when the suspension is depressed? I would also try to support the differential outputs on the rear axle a bit more. Myers Edited March 16, 2017 by Myers Lego Technic Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 16, 2017 Author Posted March 16, 2017 2 hours ago, Myers Lego Technic said: That looks good! does the front axle collide with the servo when the suspension is depressed? I would also try to support the differential outputs on the rear axle a bit more. Myers No and I will do that. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 29, 2017 Author Posted March 29, 2017 I am trying to make Crossover steering drag link to the opposite knuckle http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Steering-Systems.htm I have it mostly made it but it steers good one way but not at all the other way. How do I fix that? Quote
JJ2 Posted March 29, 2017 Posted March 29, 2017 Can you post a picture? I'm guessing that the drag link has too much of a vertical angle, you want it too be at horizontal as possible to minimize bump steer. Quote
BusterHaus Posted March 29, 2017 Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) On 2017-03-16 at 9:23 AM, Lego2016Lego said: Is this better? It has two differentials, is 4X4. and is more realistic. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the rear suspension is far from functional. I will list the issues, the solution is to redesign it: The ball joint can move up and down, which is what you want. It can also move sideways, so you need stabilizer links, just like in the front. Shock #1: the stabilizer links will limit the sideways travel, but it will still exist. Your shock absorbers can rotate sideways, they also need to rotate parallel to the car frame. Many builds use this piece on each end of the shock absorber: Shocks #2: the sideways movement will put stress on one of the shock absorbers. Leave at least 1 stud between the ball joint section and the shock absorber. Shocks #3: as you compress the spring, the black bracket to which the bottom of the shock absorber is attached will want to separate from the frame. It should sit on top of the frame, or be attached on the side. The wheel supports should be beefed up. They are held by a single axle and will flex (and eventually come apart) quite a bit. I suggest downloading the instructions for the 9398 chassis - they show how to build strong pendular suspensions. Yours will be much simpler, but the same principles will still apply. Good luck. EDIT: 42005 will probably show you just as much, and it's much simpler. Edited March 29, 2017 by BusterHaus Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 21 hours ago, JJ2 said: Can you post a picture? I'm guessing that the drag link has too much of a vertical angle, you want it too be at horizontal as possible to minimize bump steer. here is pic 20 hours ago, BusterHaus said: Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the rear suspension is far from functional. I will list the issues, the solution is to redesign it: The ball joint can move up and down, which is what you want. It can also move sideways, so you need stabilizer links, just like in the front. Shock #1: the stabilizer links will limit the sideways travel, but it will still exist. Your shock absorbers can rotate sideways, they also need to rotate parallel to the car frame. Many builds use this piece on each end of the shock absorber: Shocks #2: the sideways movement will put stress on one of the shock absorbers. Leave at least 1 stud between the ball joint section and the shock absorber. Shocks #3: as you compress the spring, the black bracket to which the bottom of the shock absorber is attached will want to separate from the frame. It should sit on top of the frame, or be attached on the side. The wheel supports should be beefed up. They are held by a single axle and will flex (and eventually come apart) quite a bit. I suggest downloading the instructions for the 9398 chassis - they show how to build strong pendular suspensions. Yours will be much simpler, but the same principles will still apply. Good luck. EDIT: 42005 will probably show you just as much, and it's much simpler. Thank you and will do. Quote
JJ2 Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 2 hours ago, Lego2016Lego said: here is pic Your Pitman arm is not long enough, make it a 3L or 2.5L using cams. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 27 minutes ago, JJ2 said: Your Pitman arm is not long enough, make it a 3L or 2.5L using cams. Will do. Quote
TechnicRCRacer Posted March 31, 2017 Posted March 31, 2017 Amazing! It is so small, yet realistic! I hope that there will possibly be instructions! Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 31, 2017 Author Posted March 31, 2017 10 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said: Amazing! It is so small, yet realistic! I hope that there will possibly be instructions! I don't do that, but when I take it apart I will take some pics so you can reverse engineer it. If you wanted to know, it is going to be a Jeep JKA Independence. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted March 31, 2017 Author Posted March 31, 2017 14 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said: Amazing! It is so small, yet realistic! I hope that there will possibly be instructions! And thanks. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted April 12, 2017 Author Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) I am going to stop working on the jeep jk8 right now and make a new MOC. Probably a big slammed truck like this: Edited April 12, 2017 by Lego2016Lego Quote
Myers Lego Technic Posted April 12, 2017 Posted April 12, 2017 To bad! I look forward to the new Moc! Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted April 14, 2017 Author Posted April 14, 2017 Here is the chassis for the slammed truck I am making. It has a dif, 2 wheel drive, 2 L motors, a servo motor and is going to have lights. Please comment. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted April 18, 2017 Author Posted April 18, 2017 How do I make it so that the wheel doesn't hit the frame? Quote
syclone Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 (edited) You could try using a Virtual Steering Point system , examples below: This model by ZBLJ uses that system: @ 1m 54sec Nico71 has instructions for his one used in the sedan car: http://www.nico71.fr/small-black-motorized-sedan-car/ Edited April 18, 2017 by LXF Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted June 20, 2017 Author Posted June 20, 2017 Small update, I may be making some C-models for the mini dump truck. Note, today I became an Eagle Scout. Quote
aminnich Posted June 20, 2017 Posted June 20, 2017 I thought you were done with LEGO and moving onto RC cars? Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted June 20, 2017 Author Posted June 20, 2017 I am mostly done, but I have that one set so I may still make a little. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted July 14, 2017 Author Posted July 14, 2017 (edited) Here is a C model for the Lego dump truck. It is a monster Hummer. I just have the one dump truck for Legos parts, as I sold the rest. Edited July 14, 2017 by Lego2016Lego Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 On the Monster Hummer I added HoG, if you are interested I will post pics if you are not I will not post any. Quote
Lego2016Lego Posted January 7, 2019 Author Posted January 7, 2019 Hi guys, long time no see! As some of you may know I sold my Lego's over a year ago. I have just got back into it and have been working on a mini crawler. My part supply is limited so apology's in advance if something seems like it is built weird, it may be because I don't have the parts I need to build it properly. Ok, now that we got all of that out of the way I need some help on this build. if you guys can point me in the right direction to make a small front axle for this that would be great. I don't have any PF but I am trying to make it so if I get some it will be easy in incorporate. My max size for uploading is 0.1MB so I can not upload photos. Quote
AndyCW Posted January 7, 2019 Posted January 7, 2019 Welcome back. The axle collection thread might be of some use. Quote
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