[MOC] The X-Wing Strikes Back

[Sucram]

ur x wing looks awesome

[TWP]

Looks great! I think I'll implement some of the things you've done in my Inthert's X-wings (if that's okay haha). Thanks for sharing your model

I'm looking forward to your snowspeeder as well

[cehnot]

55 minutes ago, TWP said:

Looks great! I think I'll implement some of the things you've done in my Inthert's X-wings (if that's okay haha). Thanks for sharing your model

I'm looking forward to your snowspeeder as well

I never built one before and since there are so many wonderful designs I may try my two favorite designs and recreate them to see how they match up to my x-wing. I saw a few new elements come out in 2017 and 2018 sets that are now available on brick link. I am particularly fond of Part 32828. I bought a dozen of these and already came up with a great solution for another LEGO creation I will share soon. This part could be great as legs, joints or even landing gear. This might be a helpful solution to the harpoon gun or some other internal part. I know I plan on doing speeder bikes and may use this part there. 

On January 15, 2018 at 8:17 PM, LEGODrongo01 said:

ur x wing looks awesome

Thank you.

I absolutely do not feel offended!
Sorry if you thought so.

I just mentioned this particular MOC is a little too far in modifying pieces to my liking, but this does not mean I am offended or anything. 

I am glad. This was more of a love of mine and this ship is particularly a favorite to design. I crafted the ship the way I wanted to, and offered a nice solution for purists. If LEGO developed a part I feel is good enough for the cannons I will use that in the future. For now, I have not figured out how or what I want to do with the "painted" blue stripes on Luke's X-wing cannons. Some people used technic connectors, dmaclego simplified the 4mm hose by cutting a gray and light bluish gray hose up and sliding them on next to each other. I love this idea, and understand why he chose not to use the bright blue since we really need a sand blue hose for it. 

[Darth Hammy]

That is a nice moc! If U put with an Interceptor, I bet it'll look good!

 

Edited January 23, 2018 by Darth Hammy

[sander1992]

I have never seen that many elastics in one build.

Great job on the shaping of the X-Wing.

 

[JangoFett140]

I tried downloading the LDD files but the link isn't working for me. Do I need  bricksafe account?

Edited January 24, 2018 by JangoFett140

[belkor]

Lovely build - thanks for sharing this ?

[cehnot]

13 hours ago, JangoFett140 said:

I tried downloading the LDD files but the link isn't working for me. Do I need  bricksafe account?

I am sorry I fixed the link today, 
You can also click the link below. I moved the file into a new folder. 
T-65 X-Wing Download Link, Updated January 10, 2018 LDD File for Version 4.3.11

[JangoFett140]

4 hours ago, cehnot said:

I am sorry I fixed the link today, 
You can also click the link below. I moved the file into a new folder. 
T-65 X-Wing Download Link, Updated January 10, 2018 LDD File for Version 4.3.11

Thanks! This build is so fantastic thanks for sharing

[Glassjaw]

The level of detail down to the cross section is just, like, +slow clap+ brilliant

[rudinator26]

On 10/12/2016 at 8:19 PM, cehnot said:

UPDATE: January 24, 2018

Final LDD File. 
T-65 X-Wing Final LDD File Download Link Dated 01/10/2018

For More photos, please visit page 4.
Click to go to Page 4
 

20180111_152233r

 

 

 

UPDATE: December 14, 2016

New fuselage back per request. I had a discussion in the PM about changing the back a bit to accommodate the lack of bottom 1x2 cheese slopes as in the original model. I pulled the bottom out and reworked the entire back to get it more accurate. 
As you can see I extended the "box" behind the round tile/plate area. I used the slope for the non gear and the gold nugget shape for the gears. 


UPDATE: December 12, 2016
As per request I modified the LDD file to include alternative wings without gear system, and the Gray Mouser conversion for the canopy. 

Easy to  Drag and Drop into the main fuselage.
Here is what is included in the new LDD:
1 set of Wings with gears to open and close the wings
1 set of wings without gears and a fake center gear that rotates as you manually open the wings. Basically the Gray Mouser wings upgrade I showed on his forum thread.
1 set of Gray Mouser canopy mod
1 set of my canopy mod. This uses the official Lego part seen in Poe's X-Wing
1 set of play mode Astromech holder and top angles. This allows you to pull out the astromech for play
1 set of display mode astromech holder. This has fake arms to make use the the streamlined angle slopes.
1 set of landing gear. Easy to place on the X-Wing once the wings are closed. 


 

 

 

 

With all the beautiful X-Wings out there how could I even begin to consider putting up another one? I gathered Gray Mouser, Inthert, Psiaki, and dmaclego ideas and fortunately Gray, Psaiki and Inthert had instructions on how they mastered their structures. My adventurer began as I saw Gray mold his own version out of Inthert's beautiful design. The largest question in my mind was how could I modify Mouser's design to fit the correct height and shape of the Fuselage and cockpit to ILM's officially licensed EFX model. I then got specs from Nexus Models on how he was able to grab the original parts from various out of production models in which ILM originally kit bashed into making their X-Wings for A New Hope.

The goal was simple, modify Mouser's design into a nice profile shot for the main fuselage body. 

In an ideal setting this curved wedge part would need a 2 brick notch. This would be the closest to actual design possible. 

The hardship and difficulty in doing so made me rethink how the nose and body held together with LEGO bricks. After 50 hours or so I ended up with a gutted shell and parts that I scrapped entirely. I decided to keep a nod to all that was before me and build my version with the intention that the shape had to represent the ILM model. 

 

Nose:
The nose is quite similar to those before, but modified inside to attach to the body so it no longer hangs. 

Tube: 
The tube going to the cockpit had to be strong enough and able to withstand the attached sides that make up the outer skin.

Cockpit: Bring back some of the angles from the model. I wish LEGO made a canopy that actually curved the correct way. We all do. I am planning on making my own by fusing canopy pieces together and using my old modeling tools. For the time being, the slope in the back (45 degree) angle will work for now, but I want it to come forward 1 peg to where his helmet is. I also want to stretch out the canopy 1 peg towards the front, making it 8 bricks long. Right now, I built my model to fit both. 

Astromech:
Technicaly R2 should be half a brick back, but that minor detail would screw a ton of other stuff up. 

I included 2 tops for the fuselage. One more for display, the other with the ability to hold an entire astromech droid with its legs.

 

Motor/Crank
Wing attachments: Everybody used a 6 or 7 brick long gap to hold the wings in the fuselage body. The model cutout called for a 8 brick long gap. This worked out better since I needed the space to house my gears. I decided to run the gear towards the back since the actual model and cross section models all claim that is where the main X-wing motor is. Makes sense. I decided to use the same. 

Wings: The engines needed to be 1 plate longer in the front and this gave me more space to fix some internal strength issues.

Landing Gear: 
Included in the LDD. If you wan to gut out the bottom inside the engine you could actually house the landing gear in it. I did it but didn't like it. 
You can also gut out the front where the landing gear goes behind the nose. I tried it with a simple few minutes and it works, but be warned. This compromises the structure holding the nose. 

Belly:
I hate that there isn't enough angle, pieces. The curved bottom should be straight and I think LEGO needs a 2 plate height line of slopes. From 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, etc. 

Cargo Bay: I made it able to hold a few brick boxes. The Hasbro toy and may lego toys place a small cargo hold behind the chair. My thought is, they didn't want to gut out the bottom to place the cargo bay where its suppose to be, where the slope is under R2. I decided to make the cross section accurate and keep the cockpit with the life support in-between the pilot and R2. 

Cross Section Details:
I loved Inthert's concept of showing internal components. Having the cross section model in front of me I decided to do the same, but this time making it closer to Lucasfilm's version. I decided to take out stuff that didn't affect the strength of it and make cross section parts. The nose has some details as seen in the official Star Wars X-Wing Cross Section, the tube and cockpit has approximately the same sorta internal components. I also added details in the laser tubes, wing engines and such to make sure the cross section was accurate to my model's ability. 

Colors:
I love buying new parts, but this projects begs for used and old parts. The more weathered the better. I also indicated in several of my LDD model old gray and old dark gray to add to the texture. I think the yellowed and random off white shades mixed with the light bluish gray, dark bluish gray, gray and dark gray will really enhance the piece. 

Printed parts and stickers:
I may cover some of the stripes area up with white sticker sheet extras to make the striped thinner and more accurate. I plan on decorating the cockpit out with LEGO star war stickers from other kits. I found some cool button patterns i can cut into shapes for the cockpit. We have more than a decade of Star Wars LEGO sets to choose from. so many options for buttons! 

Strings and Bands:
Just like Inthert, I love the idea of adding extra depth to the piece. I want to try his idea of bands and string to get wires and tubes in there.

Baseplate: Since the ship is about 49-50 bricks long I think I will create a small diorama hanger on a 32x32 or 48x48 baseplate. Have not decided whether I want to do a hanger or prop it up and have it fly over the Death Star trench. I want to build one of the great Tie-Fighters I see on here and definitely plan on doing a Trench for that. 

does anyone have any problems opening this ldd file? when i did, 26 parts couldnt be loadad and was removed. please help

[cehnot]

2 hours ago, rudinator26 said:

does anyone have any problems opening this ldd file? when i did, 26 parts couldnt be loadad and was removed. please help

The LDD version you need is Version 4.3.11 (released in December 2017). This contains 26 parts from 2017. I upgraded to that LDD because there were parts in my final design that was not available in 2016. These parts should include corner wedge plates, tiles and a few other parts.

Edited January 27, 2018 by cehnot

[rudinator26]

seems like i cant upload this to bricklink to get the parts.. such a shame...

[supertruper1988]

14 minutes ago, rudinator26 said:

seems like i cant upload this to bricklink to get the parts.. such a shame...

That is a common problem to have. I usually find that using Rebrickable is a better way to get the parts list. 

You find a guide I created here:
https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/159619-guide-using-rebrickable-to-retrieve-parts-list-from-ldd/

[cehnot]

You beat me to it. I use that guide each time I upload. Some people uploaded the file to studio and was able to download a list. Not sure if studio has all the current parts, but it is also worth a shot. 

[sovietxrobot]

I've been working on building this for a while now. The design is fantastic, no other model comes close to having the correct shape and proportions, not even the UCS Red 5. There is some brilliant lego engineering here, really impressive.

However I found this model very difficult to build. Building the gear box and S-Foils from the LDD was a real challenge, and I can't figure out if I got it all right. I'm not sure if its fitting into the main body correctly- I noticed some sections (like the nose) have a <1 tile gap that is intentional, its difficult to tell from the LDD if this is also the case with the gears. Also, I appreciate all the effort you took to make the model sturdy, but I will almost certainly need to use some glue to finish this.

[cehnot]

The gears offer 2 ways to make the thing work. I designed it to be one or the other. 

1 way is to have the gear go to the back of the x wing and use the 2x2 round plate to open the wings. I also made the gear have the ability to switch to a vertical option where you can make it work with a stand or have the gear go to the top and turn from there. 

The gear box and s foils have to be put together at the same time. I used my lap to hold the wings together while placing the gears in correctly so that the lego parts line up correctly so the wings open properly. This too a few times to get right because the wings require both the top and bottom gear to line up perfectly. 

I am not sure what parts you need to glue. 

I can take a few photos of the middle to help you out. 

[cehnot]

11 hours ago, sovietxrobot said:

I've been working on building this for a while now. The design is fantastic, no other model comes close to having the correct shape and proportions, not even the UCS Red 5. There is some brilliant lego engineering here, really impressive.

However I found this model very difficult to build. Building the gear box and S-Foils from the LDD was a real challenge, and I can't figure out if I got it all right. I'm not sure if its fitting into the main body correctly- I noticed some sections (like the nose) have a <1 tile gap that is intentional, its difficult to tell from the LDD if this is also the case with the gears. Also, I appreciate all the effort you took to make the model sturdy, but I will almost certainly need to use some glue to finish this.

Hope this helps...

 

The nose, in question. I cut down a hinge to make the space filled. Same technique as what I did in the wings. 

 

Gears:

I forgot to mention since my last update I did the following mod to the gears to make it work better:

the 2 stud axle concept works if you take out the longer axle from image 2 and replace it with a shorter one. 

You need to use a shorter axle so the one on the right doesn't stick out so far. This will allow you to keep the original black 2 stud axle without cutting it. 

 

Th

This is a cut down axle, you do not need to do this in my design. I did it as a placeholder for me when I decide to build a stand. 

[sovietxrobot]

thanks so much for the pictures, I finally got the gear box and wings working. I completely missed the cut hinge the first time around. I wound up having to glue the 2x2 hinges in the nose, I couldn't get it to stay on while attempt to attach the side panels.

this really is a fantastic model, and the building techniques are fascinating. I would love to see more of your models.

[sovietxrobot]

I am about 95% finished building this excellent model, really challenging and interesting build. I had two questions-

1. where do I attach the landing gears? it wasn't obvious to me from the LDD, I tried to drag and drop the individual sections together but I couldn't figure out how to do it (I have never used LDD before).

2. theres a gap between the side and top panels on the nose- its actually a little worse than what the picture shows. did I make a mistake? is there anyway to address this?

 

Edited May 5, 2019 by sovietxrobot

[Bonaparte]

Amazing work, thanks for sharing.

[cehnot]

On 6/14/2018 at 3:47 AM, sovietxrobot said:

I am about 95% finished building this excellent model, really challenging and interesting build. I had two questions-

1. where do I attach the landing gears? it wasn't obvious to me from the LDD, I tried to drag and drop the individual sections together but I couldn't figure out how to do it (I have never used LDD before).

2. theres a gap between the side and top panels on the nose- its actually a little worse than what the picture shows. did I make a mistake? is there anyway to address this?

<snip>

I pushed down the 2x2 gray plate away from front nose since it holds up, it gives it a bit of a gap, but the top aligns with the side better. 

The landing gear on the front just attaches to the white bottom plate. 
The back landing gear fits inside the engines. 
I would take the 1x1 gray cheese wedge out. You can make a 1x4 red tile fit there and it sorta keeps the sides on.

Bottom Gear: Take off the half cylinder and attach the gear as follows. Should work just fine.

Front landing gear is attached only using the hinges and white plate. I didn't put a lot of effort into placing the landing gear inside since it was for display only. The side 1x6 tiles are attached with a round hinge top. 

The side 1x4 tiles. I chose to change them in order to make it Red 5 style. I took the 1x6 red tile out and made it 2 1x4 tiles. 
What I may do about that gap on the nose you asked about, I may use the new 2x2 lego part 33909 plate 2x2 with reduced knobs, then use a cut down hinge to fill the gap. 

Edited June 20, 2018 by BEAVeR
Please don't quote images

[sovietxrobot]

I am all finished, except for a few minor details. It looks fantastic. Thanks for all your help and this excellent model. The design and building techniques were very interesting.

[NeoSephiroth]

Hi everyone.

First of all, I have to say thank you to cehnot for sharing the .ldd-file for this awesome model.

I tried to build it for myself and with a few modifications I succeeded.
As you can see, I've decided to have round canon bases. Think it looks much cooler than the ones in the .ldd-file. The canons also have the blue stripes like the original Red 5 X-Wing.
Also I reworked the side panels in front of the nose a bit so they don't need to be bend as much as in the original design.
The slopes on the wings are from the 75003 A-Wing and the engine covers are from 7468 - Saturn V Moon Mission.

Hope you like my version. Thanks again.^^

Edited June 19, 2018 by NeoSephiroth

[wookieejedi]

Looks good!