[MOC] Yet Another Supercar

[PorkyMonster]

Inspired by Lego's Ferrari 599 and Enzo models, I've created something 'beefier' .

Main characteristics:

• Measurements - 50 cm (L), 25 cm (W) and 15 cm (H). Weighs 2.5 kg.
• All wheel drive (AWD) with 3 open differentials.
• Full independent suspension.
• Steering - KPI, Caster, Progressive Camber, sharp steering up to 40 degrees. Towerpro MG995 Servo.
• Powered by a brushless 4370KV motor at 9 volts .

 

For fun and laughter .

 

Edited January 25, 2017 by PorkyMonster
Updated pictures.

[JJ2]

It looks really nice, the chassis looks really rigid, what did you use to mount the servo? 3D printed parts?

Are you sure the Lego universal joints will hold up, they can break under the load of a XL motor.

I am currently making a car a little smaller then yours, I have a feeling yours will look a lot better.

[PorkyMonster]

13 hours ago, JJ2 said:

It looks really nice, the chassis looks really rigid, what did you use to mount the servo? 3D printed parts?

Are you sure the Lego universal joints will hold up, they can break under the load of a XL motor.

I am currently making a car a little smaller then yours, I have a feeling yours will look a lot better.

Thanks . I made sure that when i lift up the model mid-section, its front and rear won't sag... otherwise handling might suffer.

You're right, I 3D printed and mount my servo like this .

For the U-joint, I used to think that they are weak too... but now I realized that the key is proper bracing to prevent side-way movements due to vibration. So I made use of this structure to hold it securely in place (note that this structure also prevents the CV joint from falling out of the differential).

(replace the red part with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15100#T=S&O={} as I couldn't find that in LDD...)

I always end up building huge models after factoring in all the steering geometries. Ok, I admit that I 'wasted' 1 extra stud each side... haha, but will be interesting to see if there is a way to factor in all such geometries within a smaller model .  As to look, I think beauty is in the eye of the beholder... and I'll still be tweaking its 'skin' here and there over time to either make it more rigid and/or more aesthetically pleasing...

Edited December 16, 2016 by PorkyMonster

[PorkyMonster]

Two more photos:

and

[Didumos69]

I like your search for a properly angled steering geometry.

Nice to see some details. Very clever how you secured the CV-joint. Given your geometry, I guess this was needed because the axle inserted into the U-joint will slide in and out of the CV-joint. The 3L thin lever could still slide over the 3L axles with knob, but I guess that won't happen.

I would also very much like to see your custom wheel hubs.

[Richard Dower]

On 12/15/2016 at 4:57 AM, PorkyMonster said:

Inspired by Lego's Ferrari 599 and Enzo models, I've created something 'beefier' .

Main characteristics:

• Measurements - 50 cm (L), 25 cm (W) and 15 cm (H). Weighs 2.5 kg.
• All wheel drive (AWD) with 3 open differentials.
• Full independent suspension.
• Steering - KPI, Caster, Progressive Camber, sharp steering up to 40 degrees. Towerpro MG995 Servo.
• Powered by a brushless 4370KV motor at 9 volts .

For fun and laughter .

 

Can i offer one piece of advice/mod sugestion.....this part on Flat Silver, trust me :-)

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=32187&colorID=95&in=A

And use Black 6558 pins....it will look alot better.

use this part in red on the front: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=48989&colorID=5&in=A

you used certain LBG parts that i personally would have used red, to colour match.

you could use this part in black on the wheel hubs: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=4185&colorID=11&in=A

Edited December 20, 2016 by Jim
Removed the images

[nerdsforprez]

I think we all would also benefit from a video.  especially would love to see your brushless motor in this build. ..

[PorkyMonster]

21 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I like your search for a properly angled steering geometry.

Nice to see some details. Very clever how you secured the CV-joint. Given your geometry, I guess this was needed because the axle inserted into the U-joint will slide in and out of the CV-joint. The 3L thin lever could still slide over the 3L axles with knob, but I guess that won't happen.

I would also very much like to see your custom wheel hubs.

One thing that I still can't figure out how to include is Ackermann geometry - primarily because if I forgo parallel (i.e. one to the front and one to the back of the front axle) steering links, my front wheels will go out of sync and one of them will not be able to recover from the steer (likely due to the weight of the car). Still thinking...

Indeed, the 3L thin level will not slide over the 3L axles with knob - friction between them is strong enough to prevent that.

Here's the detailed, more accurate, front axle that I'm using: (lxf file)

I've shamelessly adopted the slanting 5L thin level idea that I first saw in your Steppenwolf platform as I think the way it links to the lower steering arm can allow for more ground clearance. But I've modified other portions to suit my model. Caster is realized by tilting the entire front axle relative to the chassis, because that will allow my suspension travel to be in the same direction as the caster angle.

 

16 hours ago, Richard Dower said:

Can i offer one piece of advice/mod sugestion.....this part on Flat Silver, trust me :-)

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=32187&colorID=95&in=A

And use Black 6558 pins....it will look alot better.

use this part in red on the front: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=48989&colorID=5&in=A

you used certain LBG parts that i personally would have used red, to colour match.

you could use this part in black on the wheel hubs: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=4185&colorID=11&in=A

Thanks!! I fully agree with your suggestions on parts 32187, 6558, 48989 as well as all the LBG parts, and I'll see what can be done (as I don't have certain parts) that's the beauty of Lego - many ways to implement the same effect.

Could you clarify on the wheel hubs part? ( couldn't quite understand what you meant...).

But related to the wheels, I'm considering adding this rim cover: .

 

 

 

15 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

I think we all would also benefit from a video.  especially would love to see your brushless motor in this build. ..

That's on the way .

 

[Didumos69]

5 hours ago, PorkyMonster said:

One thing that I still can't figure out how to include is Ackermann geometry - primarily because if I forgo parallel (i.e. one to the front and one to the back of the front axle) steering links, my front wheels will go out of sync and one of them will not be able to recover from the steer (likely due to the weight of the car). Still thinking...

Indeed, the 3L thin level will not slide over the 3L axles with knob - friction between them is strong enough to prevent that.

Here's the detailed, more accurate, front axle that I'm using: (lxf file)

I've shamelessly adopted the slanting 5L thin level idea that I first saw in your Steppenwolf platform as I think the way it links to the lower steering arm can allow for more ground clearance. But I've modified other portions to suit my model. Caster is realized by tilting the entire front axle relative to the chassis, because that will allow my suspension travel to be in the same direction as the caster angle.

Yeah, it's hard to get the wheels aligned properly with all these angles and Ackermann steering. On the Steppenwolf I optimized for pushing the car forward and I limited the steering to guarantee a successful return. Max steering angle was still over 40 degree. When pushing the car backwards it suffered from a little toe-in. I also had to build an 8L gear rack.

When the steering links don't make enough angle with the wheel hubs, steering gets sloppy. This problem is more likely to occur with Ackermann steering. I've seen people bringing the gear rack closer to the axles to make sure the steering link-wheel hub angle averages around 90 degree.

This shows what I mean:

Nice to see someone using the tilted wheel hub idea from the Steppenwolf

Edited December 17, 2016 by Didumos69

[PorkyMonster]

Here's the video, hope you guys like it, comments most welcomed

 

 

[Jim]

On 12/16/2016 at 0:11 PM, Richard Dower said:

Can i offer one piece of advice/mod sugestion.....this part on Flat Silver, trust me :-)

Hi. Please don't quote the images, especially not all of them. Thanks.

[Didumos69]

I really enjoyed watching this video! Especially the second half with the slow motion images of the vehicle taking the doorstep. I could have watched that for another 10 minutes . This shows that suspension in a supercar-like vehicle actually makes sense. I also like the ground clearance. Many others throw in a set of suspension arms and a handful of shocks and claim their vehicle has suspension. Great to see someone around who has an eye for suspension characteristics in an on-road vehicle . 

Edited December 20, 2016 by Didumos69

[PorkyMonster]

10 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I really enjoyed watching this video! Especially the second half with the slow motion images of the vehicle taking the doorstep. I could have watched that for another 10 minutes . This shows that suspension in a supercar-like vehicle actually makes sense. I also like the ground clearance. Many others throw in a set of suspension arms and a handful of shocks and claim their vehicle has suspension. Great to see someone around who has an eye for suspension characteristics in an on-road vehicle . 

Thanks . I like to observe suspension at work, especially those with some sort of dampening, that's why I included that segment .

[PorkyMonster]

On 12/16/2016 at 11:01 AM, PorkyMonster said:

... this structure also prevents the CV joint from falling out of the differential).

(replace the red part with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15100#T=S&O={} as I couldn't find that in LDD...)

Just to share that I've found another, even more secured, way to keep the CV-Joints from separating:

Note that this is only useful for people building models with varying/progressive wheel camber... otherwise, the axle joining the CV-Joints should not move in and out.

 

[Didumos69]

1 hour ago, PorkyMonster said:

Just to share that I've found another, even more secured, way to keep the CV-Joints from separating.

Note that this is only useful for people building models with varying/progressive wheel camber... otherwise, the axle joining the CV-Joints should not move in and out.

Even better. Completely form-locked, does not rely on friction .

[PorkyMonster]

 

1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

Even better. Completely form-locked, does not rely on friction .

With earlier method, the 3L thin lever began to slip after some time... then I tried doubling to 2 x 3L levers (possible because my actual implementation uses 4L axle instead of 3L), and while that managed to stop the slippage there, the 4L axles began to slip out of instead ... that was why I decided to design this new method.

[Victor Imaginator]

Great chassis solutions. And i like overall shape of the car, very ferrarish. I don't like using non-LEGO parts, but i like clever tinkering anyway)

[PorkyMonster]

12 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Great chassis solutions. And i like overall shape of the car, very ferrarish. I don't like using non-LEGO parts, but i like clever tinkering anyway)

Thanks

On using non-LEGO parts, I just didn't want my creations to be bounded by LEGO's limitations. And with things like SBrick, BuWizz, 3D printing technology, and the fact that RC components by LEGO itself are rare and old (not to mention expensive), I suspect that what used to be a simple "parts from LEGO vs parts from elsewhere" will become "parts that can be integrated easily with LEGO vs parts that don't"...The former draws a clear-cut line, whereas the later opens up a whole new world of opportunities and creativities without diminishing the role of LEGO as the key enabler - the fundamental "ingredient".

[JJ2]

16 minutes ago, PorkyMonster said:

On using non-LEGO parts, I just didn't want my creations to be bounded by LEGO's limitations. And with things like SBrick, BuWizz, 3D printing technology, and the fact that RC components by LEGO itself are rare and old (not to mention expensive), I suspect that what used to be a simple "parts from LEGO vs parts from elsewhere" will become "parts that can be integrated easily with LEGO vs parts that don't"...The former draws a clear-cut line, whereas the later opens up a whole new world of opportunities and creativities without diminishing the role of LEGO as the key enabler - the fundamental "ingredient".

Agreed, with the rise of 3D printing I think that using non-Lego motors will increase, it would be cool if someone took the next step from using a 3D printer to making injection molded plastic parts to fit Lego but that may be a long ways off.