23 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Another update. Steering rack mechanism is now finally sturdy and compact. Fake engine moved deeper and become a structural element. HOG gear on top is located where is roof ended. Back of frame it's a little flexible being 1 stud thin - it will be sturdier later with something attached at the back of the truck. Frame can't be lowered more - it's already touching the front and rear axles while suspension fully compressed. And i don't want to make axles thinner.

I finally had the time to scan through this interesting WIP topic. Nice to see the progress and the suspension looks impeccable .

One note on the current state of the chassis: If you would use the 6L side of the bent liftarms to lower the mid-section of the chassis, the rear section would be 'in-grid' with the rest of the chassis. EDIT: That would make it more easy to connect the mid to the rear with future additions. The mid-section would also be more horizontal as it is now.

I will be following this WIP with great interest!

Edited February 27, 20178 yr by Didumos69

24 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

I finally had the time to scan through this interesting WIP topic. Nice to see the progress and the suspension looks impeccable .

One note on the current state of the chassis: If you would use the 6L side of the bent liftarms to lower the mid-section of the chassis, the rear section would be 'in-grid' with the rest of the chassis. EDIT: That would make it more easy to connect the mid to the rear with future additions. The mid-section would also be more horizontal as it is now.

I will be following this WIP with great interest!

Suspension have one flaw - too soft) Just don't have hard shocks yet... Tried to swap sides of bent liftarms. Is it some kind of magic? Need some adjustments of Panhard rod, but it should be better, thanks)

1 hour ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Tried to swap sides of bent liftarms. Is it some kind of magic?

The 6L side exactly spans the hypotenuse of the (3, 4, 5)-triangle (based on the Pythagorean triple (3-4-5)). So it spans 3L horizontally and 4L vertically, which puts both ends of the slanted section on a perfect 1-stud grid.

See also this topic for more of these prefectly gridded angles.

Edited February 27, 20178 yr by Didumos69

Building some bodywork lead me to one thought - i need that long hard shocks from 9398 crawler (or 8110 unimog). Soft ones just can't hold that weight... But i find a solution how to do it right just here and now)

Using 6.5 hard shocks doesn't look like bright idea? Yes, suspension travel at rear axle became worse. I think i'll revert to 9.5 shocks for rear axle. But at front axle suspension just get much more stiffer, but with same articulation. There's something weird - floating shock mounting points. It's virtually make shock longer.

Nice. I'm also planning Unimog, but I'm just still planning ...

Suspension and steering connection to axles are great.

On 2/24/2017 at 4:19 PM, Victor Imaginator said:

@efferman i just found one pictures with insides of unimog. Only thing that i understand - engine is right behind front axle) I'll rotate it later, thanks for comment.

Victor, first of all congratulation to decide to make this great model (my 318-323 is under reconstruction). The reason that I've quoted this message is that you can see anything important in this blueprint. Just go with axles from 8110 set and perhaps this tires or tumbler tires (I'm waiting for better times to by 4 tumbler tires for my version of 5023...). real Unimog U400 does not have torque tubes...grill could be made of 

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=11947&idColor=1#T=C&C=1 or

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=11946&idColor=1#T=C&C=1

and below bumper you could use this

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=11954&idColor=11#T=C&C=11

My suggestion is that you copy 3fferman's/Michaels chassis solution...and if I my (miss)use this position, everything important for this type of Unimog you can find in this tread

Looking forward to see you work and hope that you'll be able to use shield from Arocs for Mercedes star. Take this as suggestions and not as criticism. 

 

5 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Building some bodywork lead me to one thought - i need that long hard shocks from 9398 crawler (or 8110 unimog). Soft ones just can't hold that weight... But i find a solution how to do it right just here and now)

Using 6.5 hard shocks doesn't look like bright idea? Yes, suspension travel at rear axle became worse. I think i'll revert to 9.5 shocks for rear axle. But at front axle suspension just get much more stiffer, but with same articulation. There's something weird - floating shock mounting points. It's virtually make shock longer.

Yes you need longer shocks from 8110 set. If it could help you, take a look at this video...

(Face is familiar...)

@Jurss Thanks) I wasn't even planned to make Unimog. Just played a little in relatively new Asphalt Extreme - there's Unimog U 4023. And there's independent suspension. I was shocked, and searched for details immediately. And then i realize that i never heard nothing about torque tube suspension. So, it was challenge and i just accepted it)

@I_Igor Thanks) Blueprint was needed only to understand where's engine. And using ready solution from 8110 - it's not what LEGO for me. I like to develop something new, at least new for myself. I don't plan to use 8110 wheels - it's too large for chosen scale. And i really need hard 9.5 shocks for rear axle, for mounting some heavy at rear of truck. But don't have an opportunity to get at least pair right now( Thanks for parts suggestions. I don't decided about grille yet, but under the bumper will be 6L half beams. Exactly 6 holes like on real one)

3 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

@Jurss Thanks) I wasn't even planned to make Unimog. Just played a little in relatively new Asphalt Extreme - there's Unimog U 4023. And there's independent suspension. I was shocked, and searched for details immediately. And then i realize that i never heard nothing about torque tube suspension. So, it was challenge and i just accepted it)

@I_Igor Thanks) Blueprint was needed only to understand where's engine. And using ready solution from 8110 - it's not what LEGO for me. I like to develop something new, at least new for myself. I don't plan to use 8110 wheels - it's too large for chosen scale. And i really need hard 9.5 shocks for rear axle, for mounting some heavy at rear of truck. But don't have an opportunity to get at least pair right now( Thanks for parts suggestions. I don't decided about grille yet, but under the bumper will be 6L half beams. Exactly 6 holes like on real one)

Victor which scale should be your model? I have some plans for model U5023 and perhaps I'll be able to take some photos to help you...my scale is 1:15. 5023 is basically the same model as U4023. I'm using smaller yellow shocks...6L half beams are not bad idea, but I was thinking to make it easier for you and suggested panel could stiffen your construction. 

 

7 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

Victor which scale should be your model? I have some plans for model U5023 and perhaps I'll be able to take some photos to help you...my scale is 1:15. 5023 is basically the same model as U4023. I'm using smaller yellow shocks...6L half beams are not bad idea, but I was thinking to make it easier for you and suggested panel could stiffen your construction. 

 

1:14.5 scale... close, but i'll use long shocks at rear anyway. And i need to use panels at rear, because rear suspension is softer now. For balance i may choose brick built cabin. No panels for front axle)

Also, another small update. Because i need lightweight attachment at rear, using mostly panels - choice was easy. And i decided too start with attachment, because weight balance is really important thing for me. There's green marks - 3 fixing pins. And yellow marks - it's guide pins. Very easy replaceable back) One side is black because i don't have another pair of 3x11 panels in white. Let's assume that driver was drunk and damage this side of truck... And then, because he still was drunk, he stole replacement from nearby truck, but in different color)

Progress for today:

Not a final shape of the cabin, just to feel overall proportions.

11 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Progress for today:

Not a final shape of the cabin, just to feel overall proportions.

Nice idea (specially with drunk driver ). Black is used as base color with anti-corrosive protection and you are waiting for your turn into pint shop .

If it helps, overall width is 2480mm for real U4023, so your model should be wide 22 studs approximately (honestly very hard with LEGO portal axle hubs because they are 5.5 studs wide...). Just one question - is it possible to use tumbler tire on both sides with portal axle hub since tire is asymmetrical?

My idea was to connect differential with ball joint with combo of this parts instead of "dog bone"...I'll publish images asap.

Link for Unimog U4023 and U5023 specifications...

 

@I_Igor I tried tons of parts combinations for torque tube - to make it small and rigid enough. Dog bone just fits there as no other part) But i opened for suggestions. Width of the model is about 23 studs and with Tumbler tires it will be more. I choose 42000 tires because of smaller width - more life like.

2 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

@I_Igor I tried tons of parts combinations for torque tube - to make it small and rigid enough. Dog bone just fits there as no other part) But i opened for suggestions. Width of the model is about 23 studs and with Tumbler tires it will be more. I choose 42000 tires because of smaller width - more life like.

I understand. Another way is to make custom portal hubs like I've made to use 8 and 16 gear for hub reduction, so they partially fit in 68.8 X 24 wheel 

Edited March 1, 20178 yr by I_Igor

Another update. I hope it's close to final version of chassis. 6.5 hard shocks at front axle, doubled 9.5 soft shocks at rear axle, anti-roll bars. Anti-roll bars wasn't planned, but with more and more weight rolling was more and more significant.

Front anti-roll bar. Still thinking how to put it inside car, not outside...

Rear anti-roll bar. Slightly stiffer than front because these long soft shocks are too soft and rolling is more noticeable at rear axle. Was noticeable)

On 3/1/2017 at 0:18 PM, Victor Imaginator said:

Another update. I hope it's close to final version of chassis. 6.5 hard shocks at front axle, doubled 9.5 soft shocks at rear axle, anti-roll bars. Anti-roll bars wasn't planned, but with more and more weight rolling was more and more significant.

Front anti-roll bar. Still thinking how to put it inside car, not outside...

Rear anti-roll bar. Slightly stiffer than front because these long soft shocks are too soft and rolling is more noticeable at rear axle. Was noticeable)

Perhaps you should try using this for anti-roll bar.  It is stiffer. I had similar problem with front suspension on my UGE model, so this part helped me a lot.

Edited March 7, 20178 yr by Milan
Removed quoted images from previous post.

@I_Igor By stiffer i mean "harder to twist". Construction is rigid enough. I sure that adding 1 kg of bodywork do not lead to failures like bending parts, unpinning parts e t.c.

14 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

@I_Igor By stiffer i mean "harder to twist". Construction is rigid enough. I sure that adding 1 kg of bodywork do not lead to failures like bending parts, unpinning parts e t.c.

I was thinking more about some elegant and simple solution, but until I find some time (due to all day work), I can not describe it and it does not mean that "my" solution is useful for your project...

I like the rear anti-roll bar . It seems like the rear end of the chassis bends a little under the pressure of the shocks. Can't you add anything to stiffen this thin section of the chassis?

Edited March 1, 20178 yr by Didumos69

@Didumos69 Thanks) Yes, it bends a little. Not because of shocks, just under it's own weight. There's only one beam from left side that hold very rear part. And it holds on two first pins of a beam. I'll fix it later)

It is looking really nice, the anti-roll bars are great details of realism. 

Fixing rear of chassis and making it more sturdy lead to changing rear shocks mounting point. It increased travel of suspension. This increased travel ruined all my attempts to incorporate anti-roll bar( Maybe i will solve this tomorrow. And front anti-roll bar is changed to more compact and capable of 4 stud travel. As you can see at the photo - with given articulation chassis flexing in the front part. Later it will be fixed, and with weight of bodywork i think articulation remains the same.

By the way - 4 stud travel with 6.5L shocks. Better to see it.

 

As i said yesterday - better to see it. Video clearly shows me where i was wrong. There's no 4 studs travel, there's chassis bending. A little bit frustrating, but no fails - no learning) Braced it properly, also started making LDD, because i think i need some optimizations.

Fixed chassies:

And 3 questions about LDD:

Blue question - how to align it?

Green question - how to put 2x4 liftarm there? Cross axle hole in liftarms don't have that round depression. But ball pin with axle have this tiny round bevel...

Pink question - how to place u-joints with 12z bevel gear attached on the axle instead of LBG bushing?

P.s. Already solved green one - just put 2x4 liftarm first. But, 9L steering link is off the grid because of that 1mm.

And another question.

Red clutch gear don't make 'click' with old differential in LDD. I just can rotate it as i wish. And gear have overlap with differential. I don't know what it means, maybe old differential isn't properly described inside LDD. Anybody can check - is this configuration working in real life?

2 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

And 3 questions about LDD:

Blue question - how to align it?

Green question - how to put 2x4 liftarm there? Cross axle hole in liftarms don't have that round depression. But ball pin with axle have this tiny round bevel...

Pink question - how to place u-joints with 12z bevel gear attached on the axle instead of LBG bushing?

P.s. Already solved green one - just put 2x4 liftarm first. But, 9L steering link is off the grid because of that 1mm.

Blue: Put the axle into place first, attach the links to the bottom ball joints and then gradually bring the upper ball joints and the upper ends of the links closer to each other by rotating the axle and the link. If LDD crashes while rotating the axle, make sure the axle is only connected to one rotation point (so remove one of the L-shaped liftarms temporarily).

Pink: Rotate the axle with the 20t gear by 30 degrees.

2 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

And another question.

 

Red clutch gear don't make 'click' with old differential in LDD. I just can rotate it as i wish. And gear have overlap with differential. I don't know what it means, maybe old differential isn't properly described inside LDD. Anybody can check - is this configuration working in real life?

It has been reported by @Paul Boratko that these two don't fit. They really don't fit. The old DBG gears with clutch should fit. EDIT: see this post.

Edited March 2, 20178 yr by Didumos69