I think the contrast between the DBG engine area and the white fuselage is a little too sever. I'd turn all the white into Light Blue Grey and add some dark tan details to the engines.  

Since the Tantive IV was a councilors ship, it stands to reason that it would be shiny white. The Liberator is more of a battle wagon so greys would be it's more natural color (in my opinion!). 

I'm looking to improve the design of the fins in the midsection as pictured here:

CR-90 midsection close-up by Scott Roys, on Flickr

This is what I came up with for the area next to the engine block. Bricks colored green for contrast and to note that they are new.

fin mode by Scott Roys, on Flickr

I'm hoping that this set-up will work for simulating the forward fins. With the ball joint, you should be able to model the wacky angles.

fin mode 2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Edited April 23, 20177 yr by ecmo47

@ecmo47 Hi Scott, I actually tried this solution :) There are pros and cons with each method, but in the end it comes down to preference :)

Btw, the side tube looks to be placed wrong in the ldd.

Edited April 23, 20177 yr by mortesv

Huh. You're right. The sides tubes are 2 studs forward of the upper tube that holds the radar antenna. Which one do you think is off?  Does the side ones need to go back 2 studs, the upper/lower 2 studs forward or each set move one stud in the appropriate direction?

Hey everybody! Please forgive me for spamming all on Mortesv's threads on various 1/250 scale builds (CR-90, Neb-B and the ESB fleet). I am very likely going to take my fleet to Brickfair, Virginia. I was wondering if there is anybody else interested in bringing their scale builds and combining them into one large Rebel fleet aka The Battle of Scarif. The show dates are Aug 5-6 in Chantilly, VA which is just west of the DC area. I've got a pretty good fleet already with a Neb-B, 3xGR-75's and 16 fighters. I will be shortly adding a hammerhead and at least one CR-90. Please PM me if your interested so we don't clog up these build threads. 

Edited April 23, 20177 yr by ecmo47

9 hours ago, ecmo47 said:

Huh. You're right. The sides tubes are 2 studs forward of the upper tube that holds the radar antenna. Which one do you think is off?  Does the side ones need to go back 2 studs, the upper/lower 2 studs forward or each set move one stud in the appropriate direction?

The side tubes should be moved just one stud backwards towards the engines :)

The Brickfair idea with one giant fleet is a great idea! Unfortunately I live in Denmark and the costs of moving everything to the US are a bit prohibitive ;)

I do hope you get a lot of people's fleets together though - it will look awesome!

Maybe I could join in via Skype? :D

On 23/04/2017 at 9:24 AM, EKae said:

Here's what I have so far of the CR90 Liberator from Rogue One/Rebels:

Any suggestions?

It looks amazing! I disagree with the contrast comment - I think it's very faithful to the colours of the Liberator, and only a tiny bit exaggerated, which is a necessary sacrifice due to the brilliance of Lego's white colour (especially when compared with "White" star wars ships, which are almost always a bit dirtier and more greyish than white lego pieces are able to portray). The one thing I would do, though is definitely add in some small accents of "dirty" colours: dark tan, dark orange, reddish brown, dark brown, etc. where the concept art indicates oil/grease/rust/dirt/whatever.

Another thing, because I haven't looked at the original build in any great detail and don't plan on making it myself I can't give specific advice for specific areas of the ship. But I would encourage you not to shy away from exploring alternative ways of creating identical or similar shapes that match the CR90's profile and shapes in order to improve the colour blocking for a Lego Liberator (obviously the original build was done with the Tantive in mind and inevitably, the colour scheme of a ship will affect what choices builders make to create certain shapes or angles).

Edited April 24, 20177 yr by atlas

Hello, everybody!

This afternoon, I attached my UB-820 to the ceiling as a sort of test. I'm planning on attaching my hammerhead to the ceiling, eventually, so I started with a fairly light ship.

I attached it by two points, here in the front::

And here in the back:

Where I then attached both points to the ceiling:

Hope you guys approve, will post hammerhead when hung! If anyone wants any information on what materials I used to hang it, just ask!

@ecmo47: I am considering the possibility of sending you a few ships in the mail for you to display at your convention. Probably anything smaller than a Hammerhead, maybe a normal CR-90 when I'm done. I'll let you know on my decision! :)

Hi, just wanted to show and get feedback for my custom scaled U-Wing. If you have any suggestions, please tell me so i can fix it. Also, i just place a $130 bricklink order which puts me at 80% of the parts for the CR90.

(Bad Photo Sorry) This photo compares mortesv's scaled x wings to the U wing. An X Wing is 12.5 Meters long and the U-Wing is about 25 meters so it is pretty much perfectly in scale with the fleet since the U-Wing is about twice as long as an X-Wing. Also, the wing can be angled backwards like in the movie :)

Edited April 27, 20177 yr by Lobot
Deleted links removed

@EKae great job, it looks like it is flying!

I think the larger ships will need strings though :)

Hello there! Just one thing to share today, the completion of my second hammerhead . . .

I'm definitely running out of room . . . I better figure out how to hang things from the ceiling!

@mortesv: Is your next release bigger or smaller than the Nebulon? I just need a heads up . . . :)

@ecmo47: Is your hammerhead going to be the rogue one version or the star wars rebels version? I noticed Fuchs built the rogue one version, and I built the star wars rebels.

@EKae my next release for the fleet is going to be bigger than the Nebulon, but also smaller - it is still very very early and might take the rest of the year to finish :)

I will also make another post soon about a project not related to the Rebel Fleet :)

Edited April 27, 20177 yr by mortesv

@EKae the Rebells Hammerhead in orange looks very good.

A rail system from the ceiling could be a good idea, I think 3 or 4 rails side by side with cover hook should work.

 

@mortesv  bigger than the nebulon! - we need a flagship like the MC80 - but in scale it is 4,8m long.

Are there any rare parts I need to build your Tantive IV; I would like to start bricklinking some parts for a second GR 75 and the Tantive.

15 minutes ago, Fuchs said:

@EKae the Rebells Hammerhead in orange looks very good.

A rail system from the ceiling could be a good idea, I think 3 or 4 rails side by side with cover hook should work.

 

@mortesv  bigger than the nebulon! - we need a flagship like the MC80 - but in scale it is 4,8m long.

Are there any rare parts I need to build your Tantive IV; I would like to start bricklinking some parts for a second GR 75 and the Tantive.

And Home One would be 15,2 meters long (3,8km) ;)

@mortesv I have just begun collecting parts for the Nebulon so take your time on the next project, I'm gonna need a few months to catch up ;) 

7 minutes ago, Davenocheese said:

@mortesv I have just begun collecting parts for the Nebulon so take your time on the next project, I'm gonna need a few months to catch up ;) 

Don't worry, I have a wedding to plan this summer - I won't be done until some time after that :)

5 hours ago, mortesv said:

@EKae my next release for the fleet is going to be bigger than the Nebulon, but also smaller - it is still very very early and might take the rest of the year to finish :)

I will also make another post soon about a project not related to the Rebel Fleet :)

Great news!

Can't wait to see what you are doing this time! (but I'm sure it will be awesome)

By the way, is wedding planning not also for losers?

@mortesv: If not an MC80, is it the possibility of an MC30c, or a Mark 2 frigate :) ? Also, we need to start making imperials so the rebels have some opponents! :)

It is going to be big, yet small :)

Wedding planning is a lot like building lego - if you came to my wedding you would understand why ;)

 

Finally got all my parts in and the building has commenced! Now I get to discover all the parts I managed to overlook or order in the wrong color.

First tip: Divide the LDD file into two parts. Engine block and fuselage. Hopefully this will cut down on LDD weirdness where it jumps from one section to another or works sub-assembles that do not connect.

The engine mounting block is VERY solid!

DSC01972 by Scott Roys, on Flickr  

Edited April 28, 20177 yr by ecmo47

2 hours ago, ecmo47 said:

Final got all my parts in and the building has commenced! Now I get to discover all the parts I managed to overlook or order in the wrong color.

First tip: Divide the LDD file into two parts. Engine block and fuselage. Hopefully this will cut down on LDD weirdness where it jumps from one section to another or works sub-assembles that do not connect.

The engine mounting block is VERY solid!

DSC01972 by Scott Roys, on Flickr  

Good to know, can those 1x16 technic bricks be substituted for black?

Yes, I think so, but I checked the price and they are not significantly cheaper. Both about 80 cents each.

You may not want to change the color - If you look at a perspective straight from the back, you can notice.

Does anybody think this would be a good choice for an imperial ship to build that wouldn't be to massive?

http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Raider-class_corvette

Also, does anyone know of more rebel ships to build? I want to build more things that wouldn't be larger than the Nebulon, or only slightly larger than the Nebulon.

I found a small mistake in the engine design. On the bottom row, the two outer engines are one plate-width off alignment.

Engine mis-alignment by Scott Roys, on Flickr

The fix is easy though. Take off the bricks until you get down to this point. (model is flipped upside-down in this picture)

DSC01973 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Find two white 1x8 plates and one white 2x4 plate and install them like this:

DSC01975 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Re-install removed bricks.

Here is picture of the top of the middle row of engines to show how things line up on my model.

DSC01976 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

LDD plans have been pretty straight forward but I have deviated in a couple ways. 

1. If I know that a part is mirrored on the other side, I go ahead and installed it.

2. I assembled all the engines of each row at once. The middle row of engines are easy to install and remove so leave them off until the end.

3. I noticed that Mortesv used white robot arms (#4735) and these plans have LBG ones. White is not hard to find so you might want to order those instead.

Edited April 29, 20177 yr by ecmo47