Shadow_brick Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 Good:) I just placed my last bl order so it should be here in a few weeks so..... now im gonna be checking the mail ever 10 minutes! Quote
sed6 Posted October 20, 2017 Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) 11 hours ago, bricksmarlin said: The tubes are from an old 4504 falcon! The lighting system is called "Light Stax"! The black part you mention is called Power Brick! Here is another picture! You can build directly on it, or you can use an extension cable for longer distances! The piece between the mandible is made of: part 32324 x1 2x4 Brick x2 2x8 Plate x1 1x8 Plate x1 54200 x2 2412b x3 3794b x2 6231 x2 48656 x2 30413 x1 4599b x1 98138 x1 56902 x2 You can find a better picture on page one of this thread! If the picture is not enough, I'll make new ones! Thank you! The pics on pg1 and the parts list will be enough. And thanks for the light info as well. Edited October 20, 2017 by sed6 Quote
ds760 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Posted October 20, 2017 On 10/18/2017 at 9:26 PM, sed6 said: On 10/18/2017 at 6:17 PM, Juggernaut192 said: Awesome MOD... with LEDs should I worry about how long I have the lights on, and whether or not it's going to melt or deteriorate the plastic? Any thoughts? Thanks! No worries about heat or melting. Some high power LED's do put out lots of heat, but not these little strip LED's, mine are cool to the touch after hours of use There's no UV being emitted by these lights not to worry unless you get uv bulbs Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) Well, still need one bricklink order, but I’ll post my progress. (I’m also bad at Flickr:/) so it’s based on 75192 but as of right now it has about 7800ish bricks. fixed the bad gap on both top on bottom panels by adding a 1x3 plate and a 3x3 wedge. new cockpit interior. this part was difficult since I wanted to remove only part of it to get into the interior. So what you do is flip this panel up. then you remove the panel like so... to get to room one. room 2. room 3 with OT dish. TFA dish. room 4. top view. new underside panels. So that’s it! What do ya think? (sorry my photos aren’t to good:/ ) Edited October 21, 2017 by Shadow_brick Quote
Brikkyy13 Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 5 hours ago, Shadow_brick said: So that’s it! What do ya think? Looks great so far! I bet it'll look better when it's finished. The only thing I would suggest changing at this point is the game table and the chairs around it. Might I suggest getting the dejarik table from 75105 and then some tan pieces like 75105 and 75192? Quote
legocharles Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 HI guys, I cannot wait to mod my Falcon! (still in the box). I have two 50cm led kits on hand (that can be cut if needed). Will 50 cm be long enough for the “curve” needed? Also, have some of you tried to use two strips of leds? I am not worried about brightness, but I thought it might improve light uniformity. On every posted picture, the light looks quite uniform, but I am wondering if the camera is helping that or not. Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, Brikkyy13 said: Looks great so far! I bet it'll look better when it's finished. The only thing I would suggest changing at this point is the game table and the chairs around it. Might I suggest getting the dejarik table from 75105 and then some tan pieces like 75105 and 75192? Yeah I just winged room 1 and 4 because I had been building for a month, and I was getting tired. so any ideas on how to change rooom 1? Edited October 21, 2017 by Shadow_brick Quote
BigEl Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 I have only seen visual mods so far, soo to all the building experts: Opinions on the stability/ structural integrity of the mandibles? They were the obvious weak point of the first UCS Falcon... When I look at my model, the mandibles are dropping down a little bit downards at the front and also a bit to the side. Doesnt seem or feel instable or wobbly, but the mandibles are mostly held up by one black 2 x 8 Plate connection and I wonder about the longevity of the construction. Would be interesting to hear some opinions. Quote
Ninjanomkey512 Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 @Shadow_brick I love the interior! That's what I'm REALLY looking forward to modifying when I finally get a hold of 75192 (probably next year since I'm not a waitlist...). The 75192 has a large empty space in the bottom right so I think it would be awesome to put another large room with small smuggling compartment below. :) Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 15 minutes ago, Ninjanomkey512 said: @Shadow_brick I love the interior! That's what I'm REALLY looking forward to modifying when I finally get a hold of 75192 (probably next year since I'm not a waitlist...). The 75192 has a large empty space in the bottom right so I think it would be awesome to put another large room with small smuggling compartment below. :) Thanks:) the empty space is strange. You think if they are making a $800 set, they would pack it full of stuff. but it still has an interior so that’s a plus over 10179 Quote
legocharles Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 40 minutes ago, BigEl said: I have only seen visual mods so far, soo to all the building experts: Opinions on the stability/ structural integrity of the mandibles? They were the obvious weak point of the first UCS Falcon... When I look at my model, the mandibles are dropping down a little bit downards at the front and also a bit to the side. Doesnt seem or feel instable or wobbly, but the mandibles are mostly held up by one black 2 x 8 Plate connection and I wonder about the longevity of the construction. Would be interesting to hear some opinions. I agree with the mandibles dropping. Being an owner of the 10179, I must say the drooping seems to have (visually and subjectively) gotten worse since I first built it. I temporarily pillars under the mandibles, but while fixing the drooping, in worsened the looks. I remember that the drooping was evident from day one. Is that still the case with the newer version? Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 11 hours ago, Brikkyy13 said: Looks great so far! I bet it'll look better when it's finished. The only thing I would suggest changing at this point is the game table and the chairs around it. Might I suggest getting the dejarik table from 75105 and then some tan pieces like 75105 and 75192? Better seats? Quote
sandtrooper Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 4 hours ago, legocharles said: Also, have some of you tried to use two strips of leds? I am not worried about brightness, but I thought it might improve light uniformity. On every posted picture, the light looks quite uniform, but I am wondering if the camera is helping that or not. For my 10179 I used two strips of LEDs. It was one strip for the bottom half of the engine from right to left, then put a twist in the strip and string it back across the top from left to right. I had to add some small columns of bricks behind the LEDs to keep them in place. Quote
sed6 Posted October 21, 2017 Posted October 21, 2017 5 hours ago, legocharles said: HI guys, I cannot wait to mod my Falcon! (still in the box). I have two 50cm led kits on hand (that can be cut if needed). Will 50 cm be long enough for the “curve” needed? Also, have some of you tried to use two strips of leds? I am not worried about brightness, but I thought it might improve light uniformity. On every posted picture, the light looks quite uniform, but I am wondering if the camera is helping that or not. 50cm is plenty. Each rear engine grate measures 22cm so 44cm total. Less since you'll be working in the inside and the diameter is smaller. One thin strip is perfect to hide behind the center blue tube. Two strips centered would shine between the tubes. One is more than enough! I cheated and used a tiny bit of clear tape (hey at least it's not Kragle) to keep the LED strips pulled tight at each end to prevent the strip from sagging. Have fun, its really easy. Quote
sed6 Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) Flattened out the rear, looks much better to me. Edited October 22, 2017 by sed6 Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) 16 hours ago, sed6 said: Flattened out the rear, looks much better to me. *Snip* Looks great! Edited October 22, 2017 by Lobot : Please don't quote images, thanks :-) Quote
sed6 Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) On 10/20/2017 at 8:53 PM, Shadow_brick said: Well, still need one bricklink order, but I’ll post my progress. (I’m also bad at Flickr:/) So that’s it! What do ya think? fixed the bad gap on both top on bottom panels by adding a 1x3 plate and a 3x3 wedge. I really like you work! No way I can make such mods myself. Mine are simple but I still cringe everytime I remove or add a piece, getting father away from the original design (though they sure left us with a lot of options). I filled the gap with a little wing from my old collection. 2 pairs will do both sides. I need to clean them up in hydrogen peroxide to get their coloring restored. 10 hours ago, legocharles said: I agree with the mandibles dropping. Being an owner of the 10179, I must say the drooping seems to have (visually and subjectively) gotten worse since I first built it. I temporarily pillars under the mandibles, but while fixing the drooping, in worsened the looks. I remember that the drooping was evident from day one. Is that still the case with the newer version? Not really. My mandibles have about 5mm of vertical flex. So half that, 2.5mm of droop? Totally acceptable to me. Besides once I get it hung on the wall it won't droop at all. Edited October 22, 2017 by sed6 Quote
sed6 Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) I filled in the area between the mandibles. I covered the plates using only greeblies I had left over from the build. I also moved the landing light in, again more to scale. I need to replace them with yellow or clear, and get them lit next! Edited October 22, 2017 by sed6 Quote
cehnot Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) 16 hours ago, sed6 said: Flattened out the rear, looks much better to me. *Snip* Can you share your process or open it up and show the interior parts on where you did your changes? Edited October 22, 2017 by Lobot : Please don't quote images, thanks :-) Quote
sed6 Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 27 minutes ago, cehnot said: Can you share your process or open it up and show the interior parts on where you did your changes? Sure, it was easy, I just removed lots of pieces. The pic below is of the bottom section. I removed all the red, and removed the white and yellow hinges. I used a 2x4 plate to seal the hinge line and make it non flexible. Same for the top, I just kept removing pieces until it sat flush. Quote
will Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 7 hours ago, sed6 said: Flattened out the rear, looks much better to me. Looks much better. Might have to have a go one mine. Quote
cehnot Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 Does the curve have a purpose on the rear? All the falcon models do not curve. I think if I buy this I will combine so many different ideas from other falcon mics it may not look or feel similar to this model anymore. The more I look at the model the more I see all the issues I will want to fix on the exterior. One, being the center circle around the gun turret is too large. Second, the placement of the 4 circular maintenance holes in the mandibles. Third, the 6 circular vents in the back. Fourth, the shape of the rear. Fifth, somehow figuring out how to build a full interior. And sixth, rebuild the entire underside. These major issues may have solutions if we combine the exterior with Marshal Banana, jaelon, and Khaled falcon solutions. I love how Khaled figured out a way to use hinges to open up the top. Since the top isn't a structural issue, I feel like we could build a better technic stucture to house these lovely compartments. I saw what Marshal did to the side air docks and those work beautifully on his new freighter. I understand we would need to worry about weight and bowing. I am sure there is a way to do corridors and still have the walls meet the roof with bricks or plates connecting both sides of the corridor doors and hallways. Quote
Shadow_brick Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 Just now, cehnot said: Does the curve have a purpose on the rear? All the falcon models do not curve. I think if I buy this I will combine so many different ideas from other falcon mics it may not look or feel similar to this model anymore. The more I look at the model the more I see all the issues I will want to fix on the exterior. One, being the center circle around the gun turret is too large. Second, the placement of the 4 circular maintenance holes in the mandibles. Third, the 6 circular vents in the back. Fourth, the shape of the rear. Fifth, somehow figuring out how to build a full interior. And sixth, rebuild the entire underside. These major issues may have solutions if we combine the exterior with Marshal Banana, jaelon, and Khaled falcon solutions. I love how Khaled figured out a way to use hinges to open up the top. Since the top isn't a structural issue, I feel like we could build a better technic stucture to house these lovely compartments. I saw what Marshal did to the side air docks and those work beautifully on his new freighter. I understand we would need to worry about weight and bowing. I am sure there is a way to do corridors and still have the walls meet the roof with bricks or plates connecting both sides of the corridor doors and hallways. Curve? Like the frame shape? Quote
cehnot Posted October 22, 2017 Posted October 22, 2017 Sorry, I meant the lip sticking up and down along the rear engine exhausts. They curve up toward the rear center on the top and down on the bottom. Sed fixed this problem in his Falcon. I just wonder why LEGO did this. The curved shape i unow is suppose to be a circle. Sorry I misspoke. Quote
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