[WIP][MOC] Y-Wing

[EnderWiggen]

Hello Everyone, I am in need of Help, I wanted to build A Brickwright Y-Wing so I got the planes and started Building it with limited parts and a 
need to reduce the weight of the engine nacelles of the y-wing. I will admit this did not start out as a True MOC and for a large part of the build 
it was a FrankenSet, I.E. Little of this Little of that, and as I built I used inspiration from Other builders like DarthPineapple and Dmaclego. 
As it Stands my Build only has the engine nacelles and forward cockpit as true or partial MOC's and I am working to create a main body like 
DarthPineapple's The problem is the main body is from Brickwright's MOC for now I have extended the the engine pylons and dropped the engines down 
creating a offset making the engines lower than intended so now the main body will sit like a hunchback when all the detail is done. I am not ok 
with this as I want the center aft of the main body to look like a real y-wing. Reference the pictures below for how far I have Gotten on this build.
I am looking for a way to lower the main body detail to match the model as best I can and would like any help on a good way to say convert or make 
this setup work. You can see the frame I came up with to make the engines lighter and lower and still provide detail on the outside...

I just need some advice on how to make the body match. 
Enjoy 
Edit 11/25/017 Crossed out Help Parts Removed [Help]from Title

[/url]20171119_075335 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

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[/url]2017-11-23_08-34-30 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

Edited April 7, 2018 by EnderWiggen

[theDeanoRama]

I like the snot you've done on the pylons connecting the nacelles to the fuselage, but is there enough lateral strength to actually support the weight or do they sag and or break away when lifted? Without seeing a full break away of the inside portion of the nacelles it's hard to see what you've done to create the connection. What is creating the physical connection between pylon and nacelle currently?

Edited November 25, 2017 by theDeanoRama

[DarthPineapple]

I think you're off to a great start and the basic structure is already there. Like I've said before, just start on one end of the middle section, adding details using brackets and tiles, clips, modified plates, hoses, etc. The useful thing about greebling is that there's little large-scale planning involved and you can just work section by section. I'm not quite sure what difficulties you're having with the body as to me it seems fine?

[EnderWiggen]

16 hours ago, theDeanoRama said:

I like the snot you've done on the pylons connecting the nacelles to the fuselage, but is there enough lateral strength to actually support the weight or do they sag and or break away when lifted? Without seeing a full break away of the inside portion of the nacelles it's hard to see what you've done to create the connection. What is creating the physical connection between pylon and nacelle currently?

Thanks theDeanoRama, the pylons connection is still a work in progress, I am still figuring out why the left pylon to engine connection is more stable and hardly sags as much as the right both are not exactly the same but both use the Support 2 x 2 x 10 Girder Triangular Vertical - Type 4 - 3 Posts, 3 Sections as the core of each engine, instead of solid bricks, cutting the weight in half. Yes each is strong enough to be played with by my kids that are around 7 and 9.

hear is the brake down of the pylon to engine connection.

[/url]20171125_000928 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

[/url]20171125_004237 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

[EnderWiggen]

13 hours ago, DarthPineapple said:

I think you're off to a great start and the basic structure is already there. Like I've said before, just start on one end of the middle section, adding details using brackets and tiles, clips, modified plates, hoses, etc. The useful thing about greebling is that there's little large-scale planning involved and you can just work section by section. I'm not quite sure what difficulties you're having with the body as to me it seems fine?

DarthPineapple, OK I believe now I was presumptuous in being stuck I do always need help but now I see that I am on the wright track, and now I just have to build and rebuild until I get the results I am looking for. Think You DarthPineapple.

[EnderWiggen]

Still more to share on this MOC. I was able to build Spring Shooter 1X4 into the head or Nose of the Y-Wing and now I am wondering why LEGO has not used a setup like these but rather just stuck the Spring Shooter's under the Nose. So hear is the Pictures of my integration into the nose of the Spring Shooter's With a Press button.

Enjoy

[/url]20171102_060414 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

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[/url]20171102_122518 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

[/url]20171119_223425 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

[theDeanoRama]

1 hour ago, EnderWiggen said:

Thanks theDeanoRama, the pylons connection is still a work in progress, I am still figuring out why the left pylon to engine connection is more stable and hardly sags as much as the right both are not exactly the same but both use the Support 2 x 2 x 10 Girder Triangular Vertical - Type 4 - 3 Posts, 3 Sections as the core of each engine, instead of solid bricks, cutting the weight in half. Yes each is strong enough to be played with by my kids that are around 7 and 9.

hear is the brake down of the pylon to engine connection.

[/url]20171125_000928 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]

[/url]20171125_004237 by Ener Wiggin, on Flickr]

That's a really creative connection. If your getting different sag per nacelle, all I can think of is that maybe the cylinders are a little worn or the clips, maybe replace them with newer ones. That's a lot of stress to put on just those two points and they could be expanding a little over time.

[EnderWiggen]

Thanks theDeanoRama I had not considered the age or the ware of the parts, I have been looking into resuporting the pylonbut first I will have to replace some parts and see if that makes it better. Thank you for the advice.

[DarthPineapple]

Maybe the sagging is also caused by the tan technic pins you're using. The black and blue versions have extra friction slots which result in a more stable/stiff connection. Especially the 1x1 round brick is now only supported by the two small circular slots on the very end of the tan pin.

The tan and light grey versions without friction slots are generally only used if the pin is required to rotate freely or if they need to be disconnected frequently.

Edited November 26, 2017 by DarthPineapple

[EnderWiggen]

DarthPineapple I did not know that about the black and blue versions having extra friction slots. I will switch the parts out. Thank you.