Didumos69 Posted May 17, 2018 Author Posted May 17, 2018 10 minutes ago, pagicence said: You said it. It's amazing just to watch. It's awesome how well it works, and I love it when it hits the table and the whole thing just shakes, including the camera. How much does it weigh? Thanks! It weighs 1980gr. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) I updated the stepped (in terms of groups) LXF-file. Now only the front axles and rear suspension arms need to be broken down into steps. Edited May 18, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) I still had to do a slope test with the bodywork attached. It managed 65% (about 33 degrees) in fast mode and 85% (about 41 degrees) in ludicrous mode. I tried 100% (45 degrees), but that was a bridge too far. But an 85% slope for a 2kg model is not bad imo. Edited May 18, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
pagicence Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Why don't you try slowing down for a 100% slope? Maybe you will get better shot at it with less speed. Quote
Marxpek Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 6 minutes ago, Didumos69 said: I tried 100% i bet you can make it, that board seems awfully slick, traction seems the issue to me. cover it with carpet? Quote
technic_addict Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 I think the amount of torque and speed you have is excellent. I have a rock crawler with excellent torque that is useful for climbing slopes. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 35 minutes ago, pagicence said: Why don't you try slowing down for a 100% slope? Maybe you will get better shot at it with less speed. 34 minutes ago, Marxpek said: i bet you can make it, that board seems awfully slick, traction seems the issue to me. cover it with carpet? I tried both, but the front wheels lose traction (start slipping) because all the weight is on the rear wheels. And the rear motors can't push it up just by themselves. Quote
BusterHaus Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Instructions for the main frame only: http://www.filedropper.com/greyhound-4wdrcbuggy-copy I stand corrected, this model is quite modular. All these sections can be built off the model: main frame, front axle with servo, rear axles, fake motor, hood and some rear engine-covers. There are a couple of other partial assemblies, too. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) 30 minutes ago, BusterHaus said: Instructions for the main frame only: http://www.filedropper.com/greyhound-4wdrcbuggy-copy I stand corrected, this model is quite modular. All these sections can be built off the model: main frame, front axle with servo, rear axles, fake motor, hood and some rear engine-covers. There are a couple of other partial assemblies, too. That's very cool @BusterHaus! I see a few issues, but I think if we continue this, we should discuss further via PM. It would be a pitty if incomplete BI start roaming the internet. Edited May 18, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
BusterHaus Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Don't worry, I won't be posting any more partial instructions. I made these without a cover page and parts list on purpose, so they can't be mistaken for anything that official. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 1 hour ago, BusterHaus said: Don't worry, I won't be posting any more partial instructions. I made these without a cover page and parts list on purpose, so they can't be mistaken for anything that official. It's perfectly okay this way, only when it gets more substantial we better not post them here while in progress. Like you said. Quote
Johnny1360 Posted May 19, 2018 Posted May 19, 2018 21 hours ago, Didumos69 said: I tried both, but the front wheels lose traction (start slipping) because all the weight is on the rear wheels. And the rear motors can't push it up just by themselves. Have you tried it in reverse? We used to do this to make it up some very steep grades while four wheelin in the AZ mountains. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 19, 2018 Author Posted May 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Johnny1360 said: Have you tried it in reverse? We used to do this to make it up some very steep grades while four wheelin in the AZ mountains. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give that a try when I'm back home. The rear is slightly heavier than the front so it should make a difference. Quote
sirslayer Posted May 20, 2018 Posted May 20, 2018 yeah, from my experience and you can even see some of the videos i posted on my thread that some times going reverse has more torque and even tried to do a balance model and it seems the torque can affect how straight your models goes forwards or reverse vs gear slippage that can occur!! and I even place my front differential main gear to the left or right side to counter the motors directional pull and realized that the forward or reversal direction on Legos Battery box haves different speeds on my output and its a little difference going to forward or reverse but enough to notice.. I had a dually design on the rear axles and going reversed had better traction and weight .. I just wanted to share this and I hope you had similar incidents !! Quote
Johnny1360 Posted May 20, 2018 Posted May 20, 2018 Ah well just a thought, incredible performance none the less. I have been following this for a while and think it's turned out great. Quote
mj002 Posted May 23, 2018 Posted May 23, 2018 I liked the white basic color, but I mixed it with a little yellow stripe and wheels. I think it's beautiful Great thanks to @Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 23, 2018 Author Posted May 23, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, mj002 said: I liked the white basic color, but I mixed it with a little yellow stripe and wheels. I think it's beautiful Great thanks to @Didumos69 Thank you very much @mj002! Your color scheme looks really cool actually. Now that you have built it, what is your opinion about the complete model? EDIT: I noticed you skipped a few changes to the chassis. You did that intentionally? Edited May 23, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
mj002 Posted May 23, 2018 Posted May 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Didumos69 said: Thank you very much @mj002! Your color scheme looks really cool actually. Now that you have built it, what is your opinion about the complete model? When I first saw the pictures and the video from the chassis (when you tried to suspension) then I knew I had to build it. Fortunately you gave us a dxf drawing to sort the parts and building. I like the chassis, especially the rear axles, enchanted by kicking, the front axle looks very good with the moving L motors. The chassis was good too, but when the white body came, I had some white panels. I expected some white panels and lift arms, but it is very impressive with the white color (I did not like it in orange so much as, but I like the Dutch soccer team ) My experience: inside mode: It goes through everything, up the mattress. But you have to be careful of the collision, because the steering rod on the front axle is often damaged; plate 1x6 is shedding many times and the 6628 Pin with towball has slipped a few times. Universal joints have broken twice as well, but I only have Buwizz 1.0 ( only fast mode) and I do not use it in Ludicrous mode. outdoor mode: grass goes well even though it is slower than inside (Ludicrous mode is missing here), It goes smoothly on smaller pieces of wood and stones. If goes to a lot of pebbles the suspension is very spectacular, then you just smile. I'll take it to a skateboard park soon.I will report my experience. Do you have X-ray eyes? really left some old unit... I plan to break down and install it according to your step method. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 23, 2018 Author Posted May 23, 2018 (edited) 15 hours ago, mj002 said: When I first saw the pictures and the video from the chassis (when you tried to suspension) then I knew I had to build it. Fortunately you gave us a dxf drawing to sort the parts and building. I like the chassis, especially the rear axles, enchanted by kicking, the front axle looks very good with the moving L motors. The chassis was good too, but when the white body came, I had some white panels. I expected some white panels and lift arms, but it is very impressive with the white color (I did not like it in orange so much as, but I like the Dutch soccer team ) My experience: inside mode: It goes through everything, up the mattress. But you have to be careful of the collision, because the steering rod on the front axle is often damaged; plate 1x6 is shedding many times and the 6628 Pin with towball has slipped a few times. Universal joints have broken twice as well, but I only have Buwizz 1.0 ( only fast mode) and I do not use it in Ludicrous mode. outdoor mode: grass goes well even though it is slower than inside (Ludicrous mode is missing here), It goes smoothly on smaller pieces of wood and stones. If goes to a lot of pebbles the suspension is very spectacular, then you just smile. I'll take it to a skateboard park soon.I will report my experience. Do you have X-ray eyes? really left some old unit... I plan to break down and install it according to your step method. Thanks for your report. I guess the front axles are the most vulnerable area. I also broke 2 U-joints over time and after a crash the front wheel hubs sometimes came apart. The most frustrating was when a pin with towball popped out of the gear rack assembly. It was a pain to put it back. But after filling the area in front of the gearrack this didn't happen anymore. Btw, do you have the hammer-pieces inserted in the pins connecting the steering rods to the wheel hubs? Update: Today I made a test-drive with slightly different front wheel hubs, which use 5L axles with end-stop instead of short (old) versions of the 5.5L axle. It performs equally well. I made this change to make it more easy for others to build this. It's the last thing I wanted to do before I make photo sequence instructions. Edited May 24, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
mj002 Posted May 24, 2018 Posted May 24, 2018 8 hours ago, Didumos69 said: I guess the front axles are the most volnurable area. I also broke 2 U-joints over time and after a crash the front wheel hubs sometimes came apart. The most frustrating was when a pin with towball popped out of the gear rack assembly. It was a pain to put it back. But after filling the area in front of the gearrack this didn't happen anymore. Btw, do you have the hammer-pieces inserted in the pins connecting the steering rods to the wheel hubs? Yeah, it's painful to bring it back.I'm using my daughter's eyebrow pencil. ? Yes there are hammers, first I did not understand why, but after the first test it became clear and I asked for two of my son. It's a family building. ? The u-joint snaps or breaks in the center, not at the connection to the shaft.Do you have test a pin fixing instead of 1x6 plate, could it be better? I look forward to the test result with 5 axes. Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 24, 2018 Author Posted May 24, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, mj002 said: Yeah, it's painful to bring it back.I'm using my daughter's eyebrow pencil. ? Yes there are hammers, first I did not understand why, but after the first test it became clear and I asked for two of my son. It's a family building. ? Haha! I had to ask my son for the hammer-pieces as well. I ever removed the differential from his 42037 and replaced it with an axle, because I needed the small bevel gear, hoping he would not notice. He demanded me to put it back immediately . Since that event, I ask him politely when I need some of his parts . 3 hours ago, mj002 said: Do you have test a pin fixing instead of 1x6 plate, could it be better? I did test with this. It did not come apart during testing, but it introduces a lot of slack in the steering links. Too much imo. But in my case the 1x6 plates only came loose once, after a severe crash. You could give it a try though. Edited May 24, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 25, 2018 Author Posted May 25, 2018 (edited) On 5/23/2018 at 10:01 PM, Didumos69 said: Update: Today I made a test-drive with slightly different front wheel hubs, which use 5L axles with end-stop instead of short (old) versions of the 5.5L axle. It performs equally well. I made this change to make it more easy for others to build this. It's the last thing I wanted to do before I make photo sequence instructions. I tested a little more, but the hubs with 5L axles-with-stop are not as good as the ones with the old / shorter 5.5L axles. The nice thing about the 5.5L axle is that the 'stop' can be completely locked up inbetween thin liftarms / levers, which are in turn tied together with pins. This ensures the 5.5L axle can only move if it moves together with these thin liftarms / levers. So I decided to stick to the rare short 5.5L axle. Even though they are rare, they are not expensive on Bricklink. I painted them black in the digital files, because all black copies of the 5.5L axles are the older / shorter version. The final LXF-file with build steps in terms of groups can be found here. LDR-file here. This shows the final hub: Here is also the final parts list (click to open in high-resolution): Edited May 25, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
mj002 Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 Thanks, I just disassembled it and now I'm building the chassis step by step ... I wanna know how to go ... Quote
Didumos69 Posted May 25, 2018 Author Posted May 25, 2018 (edited) 42 minutes ago, mj002 said: I wanna know how to go ... I suppose this is not a question, or is it? Btw, also the front axles have changed a little, the static structure in particular. Edited May 25, 2018 by Didumos69 Quote
mj002 Posted May 25, 2018 Posted May 25, 2018 5 minutes ago, Didumos69 said: I suppose this is not a question, or is it? This is not a question. I'm curious about the step by step LXF construction... Quote
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