LEGO Technic Turbo Polyp / Kraken

[Homersapien]

insane, incredible work.

[Subblaffer]

Looks really good!

Wouldn't it be easier to just add another 4 rubber wheels (and maybe extra motors), and less cheaty?
In the video you can see the head lifted up, but is that the maximum, or can it go higher?
What is approximately the +/- speed of the crosses while using the middle ring?

Let us know when you are on the next event! Unfortunately I missed Lego World Utrecht.
I really wanna see this beast in action!

Looking forward to a good quality video!

[Techniccrack]

6 hours ago, Subblaffer said:

Looks really good!

Wouldn't it be easier to just add another 4 rubber wheels (and maybe extra motors), and less cheaty?
In the video you can see the head lifted up, but is that the maximum, or can it go higher?
What is approximately the +/- speed of the crosses while using the middle ring?

Let us know when you are on the next event! Unfortunately I missed Lego World Utrecht.
I really wanna see this beast in action!

Looking forward to a good quality video!

The new drivering is also an experiment at my work (new laser cutter machine).

Iam upgrading the model now, and maybe i will go back to the rubber wheels like you said. But i think space limits are the issue. but i will look it over.

The head in the video is at half height. This was after 3 days on the event that the footage was shot, and due the slip problem i ran it at this height, just to make sure the model would keep rotating.

in this video the maximum height is shown: (just a lift test a few months ago:

With lower cilinder and main rotation of the model, the variable speed is of the crosses is 1 rotation in 0,7 seconds to compete standstill to even backwards 

Next event where i stand with the model is the "bouwen en zo" event in Hoogenveen in march the 30 and 31th 2019

 

 

 

 

[Techniccrack]

Update!

Improvements

Last weeks worked on the improvemens on the model

Head

I covered the wiring in the head. It looked a bit messy. every spiders leg has a light wire on them. so there is a big "pile" of all those wires

Now all the internal wiring is covered up as much as possible. 1 wire is connected to the main cilinder through one arm

Head arm connections

the weight of the arms is pulling the head down. the 6 connectors between the arms and head was nearly toucing the excentric (2 mm space_/

so i changed the beam into cormner beams. problem fixed

Head lightning

the eyes and the legs are ligtened. Heres a example of how it looks.

on the lower half of te head there will be a little led strip (not on picture

Main cilinder improvements

The main cilinder suffered from slippery rubber wheels. I changed the rubber band with a 3d printed ring with tooth. it works great (previous post)

Electric connections

The connections for lightning i had to do that with crown stones and covered these up behind a beam.

Because the model must be able to go on transport i wanted that the connectors could be hooked and unhooked fast.

So i mounted 4 power functions connectors between the arm connections. works great.

The pf connectiors on the arms can be stacked (1 connectord for 2 arms) and its an easy connections 

Drivetrain lower cilinder

I noticed that the 4 gears that drives the lower cilinder starting to slide upwards on the axles while rotating.

The gears of the crosses are driven 2 mm above that gears, so there was a risk of stall of the whole model

so a made a little modification.The lower cilinder is now 3 studs instead of 2. above the gears i added a beam that holds the gears in place

Excentric

Pure a dressing up for the excentric.

i covered the led strips with trans blue tiles and the top part is dressed up better

 

Thats it for now.

to be continued

[Shiva]

Thank you for the updates :)

[Techniccrack]

Update!

Control panel

I nearly finished up the control panel for manually control of the model.

only thing left do is add some stickers.

From left to right:

Switch for logo lighting

Switch for stagelights

Switch for model lighting (and stroboscope). the lighting on the model shut down when strobelight is active

Switch for activate the excentric

Control of the main cilinder

Lifting switch

Smoke switch

Music switch on and off

 

To be continued!

 

Edited November 26, 2018 by Techniccrack

[Frequenzberater]

This turns better and better... 

May I ask you about your girlfriend/wife? 

Does she hate or love this model? :D

[Techniccrack]

1 hour ago, Frequenzberater said:

This turns better and better... 

May I ask you about your girlfriend/wife? 

Does she hate or love this model? :D

she is afraid of spiders.....

[Techniccrack]

A small update.

I forgot 1 switch on the controll panel. The switch for the lower cilinder.

so a new photo:

The red round trans red bricks are lights whitch lit up when the power for the functions is active (a little "system ready" check)

Switch for logo lighting

Switch for stagelights

Switch for model lighting (and stroboscope). the lighting on the model shut down when strobelight is active

Switch for activate the excentric

Switch for control the lower cilinder (on, off and reverse)

Control of the main cilinder

Lifting switch

Smoke switch

Music switch on and off

[Ankoku]

That control unit does look cool!

[Techniccrack]

A small update

Control panel

I added the stickers on the control panel.

it turns out nice

to be continued

[Frequenzberater]

Great! This thing got a nice 80's vibe. I like it. 

[pagicence]

It's really nice.

[Techniccrack]

Time for a update!

Control panel and change of lift controller

The control panel is now ready. I had to adjust the lift controller, because i changed the remote control operation to a " solid cable" connection.

I build in another slipring that goes through the center units up to the exentric with a Lego PF connector. Its better handling.Plus when use of the automatic program unit it must contain a steady connection because of the timing. When a remote signal is lost for only half a second the timing is not good anymore.

So i had to replace the remote controller on the panel with a cabled switch

the control panel needs new stickers, so pictures will follow

heres a picture of the slipring that goes through the center unit:|

Lightingconnections

Last few weeks working on the connection for the lights. very tricky job, but its finished.

Main voltage is 12v. this goes due a copper contact into the main cilinder.

from there its split 3 ways.

to Inverters:

2 wires with 12 volts goes to 2 inverters for powering the EL wire. from a single inverter there is a split in two way.

4 signal wires goes to 4 lego connectors on the side of the main cilinder. I used hub 1 and 2 on the lego connector

to Led strip

1 wire goes to a voltregulator that has an output of 5 volts. from there there is a 4 way split that leads to the lego connector (hub 3 and 4)

The arms will be connected to the Lego connectors. very steady connection and easy to disconnect.

So a lot of connectios had to be made, but it worked out great.

here is a sneak peek of the lighting on the arms, crosses and seats:

]

some el wire strings doesnt work properly. i still working on that

Thats it for now. more to come!

[suffocation]

Why, why oh why had I missed this topic until now?

Everything about this build screams awesomeness

[Carsten Svendsen]

MAn I had completely forgotten about this masterpiece until now. I can't wait for the finished result 

[Techniccrack]

Model lighting update! and photo

thnx for the nice comments.

I had a problems with some light wires.

Problem is solved (a bad connection in the cilinder).

The whole model is now nearly finished. Only the head will get a couple of round lights on tbut here it is for now:

I feel a little in heaven right now and never thought i pull this complicated wiring off.

hope you guys enjoy it

to be continued!

[Carsten Svendsen]

Bro, that's insane. It's like looking into a chest of gold, that's how shiny and beautiful this is. Be sure to make a video once finished eh?

[Techniccrack]

19 hours ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

Bro, that's insane. It's like looking into a chest of gold, that's how shiny and beautiful this is. Be sure to make a video once finished eh?

Video is in productio. but its take a while to finish. But am promise it will be a kickass ride:)

Edited February 17, 2019 by Techniccrack

[pagicence]

The lighting is just mesmerizing.

[Techniccrack]

Lighting update!

I finished up the lighting for the head.

Next thing to do is light up the spider on top of it and bulld the drag contact

Here's  how it looks: very cool, my opinion

I will finish the model, back to the attic, building up the model from bottem up, the  bearing rings will be placed between the cilinders, floorplates will be added, stagelights and stage just to be ready for the next video with the whole thing in motion

to be continued!

[Carsten Svendsen]

That looks sick 

[Frequenzberater]

From that distance it looks like the real thing. Awesome! 

[Shiva]

Big thank you for the updates!

[Techniccrack]

UPDATE!

Its been a while simce the last update, but here its is:

Lighting

The lighting of the whole model is finished.

The led lights on the models arms, head and excentric cilinder are led strips.

i dont like the look of this strips, so i added transparent Lego tiles on it, to cover the led strips.

here is a photo of an arm:

it looks better and the light has now a little gradient from blue, green yellow and orange to it

Main chassis

I had to do small upgrades to the main chassis. A little wiring work, stronger chassis and a little gear problem is fixed.

Also i had to add hubs for the hoses from the smoke machine.

the hoses are not Lego. The hoses will be very hot and the smoke machine will create water vapor, so the hoses must have a diametere of 1 cm minimum.

So i used waterhoses from the carparts shop, works great and easy detachable:

Autorun module and clock

The autorun module ive made with the chain system didnt works out so well, unfortunally.

But ive made a better one, with 2 cilinders.

1 cilinder contains a rotating hub that push the levers inside the cilinder to the correct position.each lever operates a switch that start a function.

the hub goes round in about 2,5 minutes (1 complete run of the model)

All functions will be operated, including the smoke machine, strobe light, lift, etc etc.

when the hub has made 1 full rotation, the hub in the second cilinder is starting to rotate, along with a clock. 

this clock rotates 1 full round in 3,5 minutes.  that is the waitingtime for the next run of the polyp

This system is perfect for events and fairs, because operating the model by hand is a hard time business a whole day. And conitue running of the model will wear out the gears.

Here are 2 pictures of this (very complicated) module (naked version)

Thats it for now.

To be continued!