LEGO Technic Turbo Polyp / Kraken

[Techniccrack]

A small update!

Preparing the lighting on the model

Electric connection through the arms and crosses

My original plan was to make this with dc plugs, but the rotation has to much friction, so I ordered 6 sliprings (diameter 7,9 mm) that fits perfectly in the ends of the crosses. a Lego brick is 8 mm. it has 4 channels so perfect for the job

Electric connectionfor the seats:

Last week i prepared the the electric connections for the lighting on the seats.

The last idea that i had didnt work (at all)

So i used my old idea from 5 years ago when i was building the first polyp model.

That connection worked great. 

Hers some photos (not much to see, but a progress is a progress :)

1 copper pipe (4mm) fits in the bigger pipe (5mm)(+ pole) in the small pipe (still working on it) will be a plastic pipe and in the plastic pipe a 1 mm piece of copper bar  (- pole). 

A little copper piece under the connector for making contact:

A lot of cutting little copper pipes and pieces of copper plates, but in the end it will working great.

Here is an old short video from 5 years ago with the effect: (the seat will rotate free and still a good electric connection:

to be continued!

[Bublehead]

On the topic of scale, what was the limiting element that set the size of your MOC? I used a Technic Figure as my basis for the ride cars and the tires of the semi tractor.  It went oversize on height but that was dictated by the ride gantry, the required room under the platform for all the power distribution shafts and gears, and the rotating and collapsing ride heads that support the cars and the stroke of the pneumatic cylinders to open and close them.

Did your central hub mechanics (lift and rotate independent) set the size, or was the arms using the 1/4 yellow rack from BWE what dictated everything else?

[Techniccrack]

20 hours ago, Bublehead said:

On the topic of scale, what was the limiting element that set the size of your MOC? I used a Technic Figure as my basis for the ride cars and the tires of the semi tractor.  It went oversize on height but that was dictated by the ride gantry, the required room under the platform for all the power distribution shafts and gears, and the rotating and collapsing ride heads that support the cars and the stroke of the pneumatic cylinders to open and close them.

Did your central hub mechanics (lift and rotate independent) set the size, or was the arms using the 1/4 yellow rack from BWE what dictated everything else?

The main reason for the scale is to the possibility to make everything fit (the systems that i want). I wanted bigger then 1:43 scale and not "creator " style. With technic the scale is always bigger.

The use of the gear racks is a little coincidence that the main cilinder was the same scale as the second version (with the tracktires).

I have tried to make it bigger then technic figure scale but the weight was the limited factor.

So this scale was the biggest that was possible with the functions for a smooth rotation and the most important function: the lift 

The scale is suitable for technic minifigures

 

A lttle progress of the lighting contacts:

The copper "hubs" are in place. i need to file those to make them a little the same height.

I made the 24 contact pins that will be placed inside the hubs.

heres some photo's

On the underside of the crosses there are 2 connectors for put the blue el wire through.

On the real turbo polyp there are blue lights under the crosses. i want to recreate that:

 

to be continued....

Edited May 27, 2018 by Techniccrack

[Techniccrack]

no update. just a stage light impression....

[TechnicRCRacer]

Wow, nice picture! The lighting sure adds a lot of wow factor to this creation! How much more do you have to do?

[Techniccrack]

4 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

Wow, nice picture! The lighting sure adds a lot of wow factor to this creation! How much more do you have to do?

thnx man,

What i still have to do:

LIghting on the model itself. Iam working on it right now.

• The most difficult part is the lighting on the seats (previous posts).

There will be el wires on the seats and arms. THe slipring must be mounted

• The lighting on the center part is easy.(5 volt usb led strips with remote control. Instead of an usb i use a 5 volt small battery.

• Lighting on the head will be also led strip. powered by the 12 volts slip contact on the main cilinder (through the arms to the head). The spider on top must be rebuild AND lightened also

• stage effect lights (strobelights, led controlled flash lights, smoke machine.

• the back stage (graphics of spiders etc)

• rebuilding the cash cabin

• Building the second transport trailer (this part ois not important for the exibition, and that will be the last part i would build

So still busy working on it! :)

 

[Techniccrack]

Little update.

Logo Turbo spider

The base of the design of the Turbo spider logo is ready.

 

to be continued!

[Bublehead]

Awesome Logo

[Techniccrack]

Update.

progress of stage building

I used baseplates 16 x 32, big plates and slope plates to make the beginning of the backscreens.

Theme is ofcourse "spiders" so i made a few nice graphics.

In between the "gaps" there will be led strips that change color and several other functions (blink, flash etc.) 

2 extra stagelights are added

I still have to finish up the ground plates (parts are ordered) so that it closes up nicely, so that will be next week

also the logo must be added in the middle of the backscreen

hers some photos:

 

to be continued

[Edwin Korstanje]

From a technical side very good, but why cut al that baseplates for the floor and background.

 

[Techniccrack]

20 minutes ago, Edwin Korstanje said:

From a technical side very good, but why cut al that baseplates for the floor and background.

 

Simple reason..i dont feel the need to spent 300 euros on "uncutted parts" for just the floor. This thing is expensive enough and better spend that money on the Ev3 set.

Btw. Only the floor is "cutted"

The small parts on the background i found on the attic. Some are a little cutted too

Edited June 3, 2018 by Techniccrack

[Carsten Svendsen]

Not only are you great at building and aestethic skills, you are also a graphics designer and an electronics expert. 

Being a master of all trades must be great 

[Bublehead]

Loving it more and more... a man after my own amusement ride heart.   I’m with you on cut base plates.  If my scale went off the scale like this, I would not hesitate cutting base plate to save money.  I belong to that club and have been a proud member for 18 years when I first made a rollback flatbed tow truck to fit my 8880 on and needed a huge expanse of plates to build a bed, I cut down baseplate and used it upside down with studded beams stuck on it to mount it to the rest of the slide that the roll back bed rode on. The dimpled grey surface was easier to winch the car onto than the studded side.

P.s. now you all know a great cheap way of making large beds for MOCs and it gives you a use for all those studded Technic beams you have laying around.

[BrickWild]

9 hours ago, Techniccrack said:

Simple reason..i dont feel the need to spent 300 euros on "uncutted parts" for just the floor. This thing is expensive enough and better spend that money on the Ev3 set.

Btw. Only the floor is "cutted"

The small parts on the background i found on the attic. Some are a little cutted too

But what if you made the floor/background parts in CAD and then have them 3D-Printed?
Cutting up baseplates to me is nothing but heresy!

[Techniccrack]

24 minutes ago, BrickWild said:

But what if you made the floor/background parts in CAD and then have them 3D-Printed?
Cutting up baseplates to me is nothing but heresy!

3d printed? it an idea, but thats even more expensive.

I know some people will be say its a "no go" to cut pieces, but this the only solution for me with this scale.

The gabs in between will be filled up very nice with long 1x10 plates etc, so when finished up you dont clearly notice the cuts.

 

[pagicence]

Are those red boxes with yellow frames on top of the artwork strobe lights?

[Techniccrack]

5 minutes ago, pagicence said:

Are those red boxes with yellow frames on top of the artwork strobe lights?

No. extra stagelights (blue)

strobelights will be placed in front of the model (otherwise you will be blind by it:) )

 

[Techniccrack]

A little update.

total view model with background and floor for now.

seats and crosses are in the workshop for adding the lights

Just for impression how it turns out

 

to be continued..

[Aventador2004]

Amazing work, maybe HOF.

[wimpie3]

When can we expect a new update?

[allanp]

This thing is looking amazing. In this case the cut base plates doesn't make it any less impressive as you could just buy all the plates you need, it's just a cost thing. One thing to consider though is that Lego themselves have used material for their ships sails and the top of their carousels, and printed cardboard cutouts for ramps and road base plates. So one might consider stiff cardboard with an aluminium checker plate design for the walkways printed on it as being a valid and possibly cheaper alternative to cutting baseplates, though its a bit late for me to suggest that now 

[ndm1306]

I wish I had it. So So beautiful & great!

[Techniccrack]

Thnx for the comments.

An update will be posted in a few weeks. Last month and this month we have a home renovation and a lot of work to do. The spider project is on hold right now.

About the floor: ive made a LDD design of it with wedge plates and normal plates. It turned out very nice with no big gaps.So the floor will be rebuild but i have to order the parts. But it will be next month (Or maybe even later) before i can finish up the model)

The exhibition is in october so patience is everything:)

Techniccrack

[pagicence]

With just 3 months left you don't have a lot of time.

[Nalyd997]

How did I miss this topic?! This is absolutely incredible