I have quite a few switches and have been interested in modifying some of them for a while now. I found a couple PowerPoint presentations from BrickWorld in years past discussing how to modify switches. The one thing they do not cover is moving the throw to the other side of the track. Now, I know there are switches from 4DBricks in just about every configuration including with the throw on the other side. But if I have an over-supply of switches, and have no need to purchase more, then modifying my existing stock makes more sense. Is there a write up on how to move the throw it is that really something I will have to figure out for myself?

I am unaware of any mods for LEGO produced switches that move the switch throw to the other side of the tracks.  Most of the mods I know of are to make single crossovers that fit the existing 8 stud spacing and 16x alignment geometry.

Sanders' Bricks on Bricklink has done throw rod modifications on switches.  https://store.bricklink.com/C0lsanders_?itemID=130278695#/shop?o={"itemType":"P","catID":"128","showHomeItems":0} 

Sal

I was thinking about some of the switches I saw on penlug's layout at Brick World...

Not the white ones by chance? :)

I've moved the throw to the other side on a handful of switches. It's a pain.

@legoman666, that is why I let someone else do the modifying and just by them off Bricklink.  I have bought a custom crossover from Sanders' Bricks on Bricklink.  He does great work.  I posted pictures in another switch mod post a few days ago on here.  They are great quality and you have to look very close to see the are modified.  Myself and another member of my lug are looking at buying some more for use at Brickworld Chicago.  If he does not have a particular modified switch AVALIABLE on his Bricklink store, just message him.  The crossover I wanted he did not have in stock.  After contacting him, he had it made within 24hrs and was ready to ship.  The nice thing is, I think he has done it so much, he is very proficient at the mods.  Check out his splas pages on Bricklink for more info.

Sal

On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 9:02 AM, pirzyk said:

Not the white ones by chance? :)

No, they were definitely modified TLG switches.

On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 12:31 PM, legoman666 said:

I've moved the throw to the other side on a handful of switches. It's a pain.

Any tips you can share?

22 hours ago, legoboy3998 said:

@legoman666, that is why I let someone else do the modifying and just by them off Bricklink.  I have bought a custom crossover from Sanders' Bricks on Bricklink.  He does great work.  I posted pictures in another switch mod post a few days ago on here.  They are great quality and you have to look very close to see the are modified.  Myself and another member of my lug are looking at buying some more for use at Brickworld Chicago.  If he does not have a particular modified switch AVALIABLE on his Bricklink store, just message him.  The crossover I wanted he did not have in stock.  After contacting him, he had it made within 24hrs and was ready to ship.  The nice thing is, I think he has done it so much, he is very proficient at the mods.  Check out his splas pages on Bricklink for more info.

Sal

Thank you for the resource! I will check it out. Not sure if he will share his methods since I am not interested in purchasing, but learning. I'll reach out and see!

Hello alias ALKO

At which rail turnaround conversion did you think? Do you mean something like that ??

An welchen Weichen Umbau hast du gedacht?? Meinst du so etwas??

 

 

My problem is not to modify the railroad tracks. My problem is my bad english do you have a translator ??

Mein Problem ist nicht die Eisenbahnschienen zu modifizieren. Mein Problem ist mein schlechtes Englisch hast du einen Übersetzer??

mfg  Udo

 

Hey Udo! Du kannst hier gerne was auf Deutsch posten, ich übersetze dann falls du willst ;)

Hey Udo! You can post something in German if you like, I will translate it for you ;)

@ust60 the switches of your cross-over in the inner loop: the handles are on the other side of the track. How did you move the handles to the straight side of the track?

Hallo alias ALKO

 

Ich hoffe mal das C…. alias Capparezza das übersetzen hin bekommt, frage mich ob das in Deutsch überhaupt verständlich ist.

Erster Schritt: Die Weiche muss von unten mit sanfter Gewalt geöffnet werden (Vorsichtig mit einem schlanken Schraubendreher) die Grundplatte auf der Unterseite entfernen. Zunächst erst einmal zur Seite legen. 

Zweiter Schritt: “Schieber“ “Verstell Zunge“ herausnehmen. Zunächst erst einmal zur Seite legen.  Später mehr zum Umbau des “Schieber“ der “Verstell Zunge“

Dritter Schritt: Siehe Foto neben den Roten Platten (nach innen zwischen roten Platten und Schiene) trennen. “Die Führung des Schiebers (die auch den gelben “Umsteller“ aufnimmt), absägen. Die roten Platten dienen nur als Führung für das Sägeblatt. (werden leider etwas beschädigt)

 

Vierter Schritt: Das abgesägte Stück (Führung des Schiebers) mit Platten, provisorisch auf der graden Seite der weiche an den vorhandenen Noppen befestigen. Jetzt sieht man (auf der Unterseite), wo eine neu “Aussparung“ für den “Schieber“ entstehen muss.

 

Fünfter Schritt: Mit einer schlanken vierkant Schlüsselfeile eine neue Aussparung für den “Schieber“ feilen.

Sechster Schritt: In seiner Größe, Länge müsste der “Schieber“ wieder in die abgesägte Führung des Schiebers, (die nur mit Platten provisorisch befestigt ist) passen.

Siebter Schritt: Die Länge des “Schieber“ passt, ABER NICHT DIE FUNKTION.  “Schieber“ modifizieren:

Rechts der originale Lego "Schieber", links der Umgebaute "Schieber"

Der kleine “Mitnehmer“ das Material oberhalb der kleinen Metallfläche muss entfernt werden. Ein neuer “Mitnehmer“ muss entstehen.

"Schieber“ (nach dem Entfernen des original “Mitnehmers“) in die Weiche legen. Der neue “Mitnehmer“ (bei mir eine Modellbauschraube) muss zwischen die die beiden Drehte der Feder die in der weiche verbaut ist.

Achter Schritt: Funktionstest, wenn alles mit liebe und Geduld gemacht wurde funktioniert sogar die Originale “Rastung“ der Weiche noch.

leider nicht perfekt.

Ohne liebe zu eilig/zu schnell nicht schön.

 

Auch noch nicht perfekt aber schon besser mit mehr Liebe gemacht

Vor dem Verkleben erst die Grundplatte mit der Führung des Schiebers (die auch den gelben “Umsteller“ aufnimmt) lose zusammen halten erst den schmalen teil der Grundplatte absägen dabei ist die abgesägte Führung des Schiebers der “Anschlag“ für das Sägeblatt. Zum Schuss alles vorsichtig wieder verkleben.

With kind regards     Udo

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First step: The switch must be opened from below with gentle force (carefully with a slender screwdriver) to remove the base plate on the underside. First of all, put aside.

Second step: "slide" "remove tongue adjustment". First of all, put aside. Later more about the conversion of the "slider" of the "adjustable tongue"

Third step: See the photo next to the red plates (separate between red plates and rail). "Saw off the slide guide (which also picks up the yellow" diverter "). The red plates only serve as a guide for the saw blade. (unfortunately a bit damaged)

Fourth step: Fasten the sawed-off piece (guide of the slide) with the red plates, temporarily on the straight side of the soft on the existing knobs. Now you can see where a new "recess" for the "slider" must arise

Fifth step: File a new recess for the "slider" with a slender square key file.

Sixth step: In its size, length, the "slider" would have to fit again into the sawed guide of the slider, which is provisionally fastened only with the red plates.

Seventh step: The length of the "slider" fits, BUT NOT THE FUNCTION. Modify "slider":
The small "driver" the material above the small metal surface must be removed. A new "driver" must emerge.
Place "slider" in the switch after removing the original "driver". The new "driver" (in my model a screw) must between the two turns of the spring is installed in the soft.

Eighth step: Functional test, if everything was done with love and patience even the originals "detent" of the switch still works.

Before gluing together, first hold the base plate with the slide guide (which also holds the yellow "diverter") loosely together and then saw off the narrow part of the base plate. The sawed guide of the slide is the "stop" for the saw blade. Gently glue everything back to the shot.

 

Sincerely, Udo

 

Edited January 19, 20187 yr by ust60

Danke Udo!  I may now attempt a mod of my double crossover :)

Edited January 20, 20187 yr by pirzyk

Wow! Thank you @ust60!! This is incredible! Thank you so much!

@ust60: Hi Udo! Sorry, bin erst jetzt wieder Heim gekommen. Hast aber sehr gut übersetzt, die Anleitung ist verständlich

The instructions are perfectly on spot. But I don't know if I'm brave enough to cut up a 9V switch yet

Apologies for the thread necromancy; I was recently trying to modify some RC switch track into 9V switch track using copper tape (I know to use aluminium for better working); I drilled out the plastic rivets and opened the underside of the 9v switch to see what, if any, inner workings I'd need to replicate for the RC track conversion - experienced modders; I don't believe I need(ed) to do anything as the 'conversion is all done 'top-side', on the rail; with tape? - my issue is that now I can't seem to get the conductive switchblades on the underside of the 9v to reliably slide under the contacts (like I imagine it did prior) to 'lock' the switchblade - it will sort of half-switch the track but not 'lock' the route. Will try and get pictures - any advice appreciated as I have done all my straights and curves but the switches still have my confused