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Posted

I love the design of this model, I really like how the panels + the flex axles + some system bricks work together. This is the kind of design I prefer.

I'm not a supercar fan, so I'm happy that I can save some money. But if it was a truck that would not be so simple!!

One curiosity: I have never understood what is the need of a gear box in a model without a motor. I mean, if you move gears up and down, what is the difference when you move the model manually?

 

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, mpj said:

One curiosity: I have never understood what is the need of a gear box in a model without a motor. I mean, if you move gears up and down, what is the difference when you move the model manually?

It changes the speed of the fake engine and it is more original

Edited by KikoTube
Posted
8 hours ago, KikoTube said:

It changes the speed of the fake engine and it is more original

It is also a big challenge to design, and to fit it in to a Technic model, and tt is also fun to build and adds something interesting into the car, which otherwise might not have many working functions compared to models of some construction machinery.  

Posted (edited)
I did some calculus on the gear ratios. Btw, the first gearbox in the chain has 4 positions, but toggles between 2 speeds. The second gearbox has 4 positions and 4 speeds.
 
Engine to DNR
(Always) -3:5 x -1:3 = 1:5
 
DNR gearbox
(1st-8th) -5:6 = -5:6
(Reverse) -1:1 = -1:1
 
D - 1st gearbox (R)
(1st-4th) -1:1 = -1:1
(5th-8th) -5:3 x -5:3 x -1:1 = -25:9
 
D - 1st to 2nd gearbox
(1st-8th) -1:1 x -1:1 x -1:1 x -1:1 = 1:1
 
D - 2nd gearbox (L)
(1st,5th) -3:5 = -3:5
(2nd,6th) -1:1 x -1:1 x -4:5 x -1:1 x -1:1 = -4:5
(3rd,7th) -1:1 = -1:1
(4th,8th) -1:1 x -1:1 x -5:4 x -1:1 x -1:1 = -5:4
 
D - 2nd gearbox to main
(1st-8th) -3:1 = -3:1
 
Main to diffs
(Always) 5:7 = 5:7
 
Combined
(Rev) 1:5 x -1:1 x 5:7 = -1:7 = -0.143
(1st) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -3:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 9:42 = 0.214
(2nd) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -4:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 2:7 = 0.286
(3rd) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -1:1 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 5:14 = 0.357
(4th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -5:4 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 25:56 = 0.446
(5th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -3:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 25:42 = 0.595
(6th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -4:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 50:63 = 0.794
(7th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -1:1 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 125:126 = 0.992
(8th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -5:4 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 625:504 = 1.240
Edited by Didumos69
Posted
11 hours ago, Ascius said:

And we don't have it in Lithuania yet, ruined my weekend plans xD

First ones arrive to Hungary on Wednesday, have to count back really slowly until then...

Posted (edited)

Very disappointed to find out that the new hubs do not work with the Porsche wheels.. They do work well with the smaller wheels(42077), especially since you can attach them with 3 black friction pins and it eliminates the play between the pins and the holes that the older hubs had... However, the offset is 1/2 a stud different when using the new hubs compared to the old one, so this is NOT as good.

Edited by Paul Boratko
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I did some calculus on the gear ratios. Btw, the first gearbox in the chain has 4 positions, but toggles between 2 speeds. 

Edited by BusterHaus
Too late for me to do logical typing.
Posted
6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:
I did some calculus on the gear ratios. Btw, the first gearbox in the chain has 4 positions, but toggles between 2 speeds. The second gearbox has 4 positions and 4 speeds.
.....
 
Combined
(Rev) 1:5 x -1:1 x 5:7 = -1:7 = -0.143
(1st) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -3:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 9:42 = 0.214
(2nd) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -4:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 2:7 = 0.286
(3rd) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -1:1 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 5:14 = 0.357
(4th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -1:1 x -5:4 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 25:56 = 0.446
(5th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -3:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 25:42 = 0.595
(6th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -4:5 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 50:63 = 0.794
(7th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -1:1 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 125:126 = 0.992
(8th) 1:5 x -5:6 x -25:9 x -5:4 x 1:1 x -3:1 x 5:7 = 625:504 = 1.240

My brain is waaay too frazzled to check the match, but im releaved that the gear sequence is correct, we only get one R, and the ratios actually make some form of sense

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, vectormatic said:

My brain is waaay too frazzled to check the match, but im releaved that the gear sequence is correct, we only get one R, and the ratios actually make some form of sense

Yes, but to get the order right you need to have the right orientation for the 2l-lever with towball inserted that switches the first gearbox. It should switch the first gearbox when the second gearbox switches from its 4th to its 1st gear or from its 1st to its 4th gear. This can easily be messed up during the build.

Just to be clear. The 20t blue gear of the DNR flows to the first gearbox, then to the second gearbox and in the back it flows back (with a 24t-8t mesh visible in first image) to the main driveshaft, which connects the front and rear diffs. Reverse flows directly to this main driveshaft via the 16t clutch gear of the DNR.

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69
Posted

Oooooh, excellent work on the render :thumbup:. Just one thing though, WHAT THE HECK?!!! The reason I've commented so many times asking for more sizes of clutch gear is to make gearboxes simpler, requiring less parts, have less friction, more intuative, easy to understand and be more like the real thing where all gears are arranged on only two parallel shafts (with a third shorter one to mount the reverse idler gear) This thing is mental! But like I've already said, to go to that ideal from what we had before in one set would require possibly too many new parts to be made at one time and I'm happy that we got the new 20t clutch and cylindrical cam shifter, so not critisising, just find it kinda funny. What is kinda annoying though is that when they when from an even number system to a more studless friendly odd number system, they made the drive rings longer, meaning a clutch gear, drive ring, clutch gear combo is now 5M long as opposed to only 4M. So to make an 8 speed gearbox with this new system, with many new clutch gears arranged on two shafts would be over 20M in length, which to be fair is still shorter than the complete gearbox in 42083, so maybe it is still feasible to do that with the newer 3M long drive rings, in any case I'm sure it was possible to have reduced the old 4M long system down to 3 meaning an 8 speed gearbox would be only 12M long with only 2 main shafts. Maybe next time :wink:

Posted
55 minutes ago, allanp said:

Oooooh, excellent work on the render :thumbup:. Just one thing though, WHAT THE HECK?!!! The reason I've commented so many times asking for more sizes of clutch gear is to make gearboxes simpler, requiring less parts, have less friction, more intuative, easy to understand and be more like the real thing where all gears are arranged on only two parallel shafts (with a third shorter one to mount the reverse idler gear) This thing is mental! But like I've already said, to go to that ideal from what we had before in one set would require possibly too many new parts to be made at one time and I'm happy that we got the new 20t clutch and cylindrical cam shifter, so not critisising, just find it kinda funny. What is kinda annoying though is that when they when from an even number system to a more studless friendly odd number system, they made the drive rings longer, meaning a clutch gear, drive ring, clutch gear combo is now 5M long as opposed to only 4M. So to make an 8 speed gearbox with this new system, with many new clutch gears arranged on two shafts would be over 20M in length, which to be fair is still shorter than the complete gearbox in 42083, so maybe it is still feasible to do that with the newer 3M long drive rings, in any case I'm sure it was possible to have reduced the old 4M long system down to 3 meaning an 8 speed gearbox would be only 12M long with only 2 main shafts. Maybe next time :wink:

I guess the new waveselector also works on the old 2L driving rings? Or do these old rings not work with the new 20T clutch gears?

Posted (edited)

Another take on the front suspention:

Is it possible that @Sariel really did a building error which causes the sagging suspention?

In the speedbuilding video it's visible at about 8:22 that Sariel has build the springs in completely vertical. I've not seen the instructions yet but on another picture it looked like the springs were oriented with an angle one stud further out on the suspention arm. I'm not yet an engeneer but an shorter leverage should aplay way more force to the springs!

That would explain the sagging!

Edited by vale
Posted

@vale Yes, I mentioned that to @Sariel in his thread. He built it correctly in Billund though, and that also seemed to have a similar (but maybe not as great?) issue. Ideally the shocks need moving out another stud at the base (or in at the top).

Posted

I really love this, the only thing I am not a fan of is the horseshoe in the front, it sticks out too far. I feel like the grey hose needs to be where the blue soft axle is, but it needs the soft axle against it.

Posted
14 minutes ago, technicfan said:

I really love this, the only thing I am not a fan of is the horseshoe in the front, it sticks out too far. I feel like the grey hose needs to be where the blue soft axle is, but it needs the soft axle against it.

Oh man I felt exactly the same when I saw the side profile!

Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Bartybum said:

Oh man I felt exactly the same when I saw the side profile!

I wonder how it would look if it had the grey hose in place of the blue soft axle and the grey connectors removed.

Edited by technicfan
Posted

A highly critical review by Held der Steine in German: 

In brief he considers it highly over priced and flawed in its implementation. He does not consider this a “Technic” model and is not a fan of the recent tendancy of form over function. If you want realistic reproductions of models, why not reintroduce the Model Team series ...

 

Posted
31 minutes ago, WvG_853 said:

In brief he considers it highly over priced and flawed in its implementation. He does not consider this a “Technic” model and is not a fan of the recent tendancy of form over function. If you want realistic reproductions of models, why not reintroduce the Model Team series ...

I agree with him a little.

Posted
14 hours ago, Pvdb said:

It is also a big challenge to design, and to fit it in to a Technic model, and tt is also fun to build and adds something interesting into the car, which otherwise might not have many working functions compared to models of some construction machinery.  

Very true!

Posted

I’ll add my opinion for what it’s worth but to me this is over paneled and doesn’t resemble the car too much if you take off the ‘c’ or the horseshoe thingy. 

This thing really needs some gaps to make it look better. It’s just messy looking. All those small panels trying to replicate smooth surface doesn’t work for me. 

I think there should have been some modularity involved so one could display half panels  half chassis sort of thing. Leave a fender off or one side of the car would have been great.

Ill never have either but I’d rather the Porsche because it looks like one. Forget the technicness of them as that’s all locked away anyway. It seems all for looks but I really think they got it wrong.

look forward to getting the new gearbox parts though from bricklink. 

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