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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted (edited)

None of the above. Pay attention to the front and rear suspension. Position of the components in my model are exactly like on the real car. I did a lot of research on this. By the way this is my favorite car brand.

MacPherson strut. Steering rack and front sway bar (blue thing), which is coupled to the lower control arm, in front of the front axle. Rear hub carrier hinged on the side in front of the rear wheel, angled rear control arms, shock absorber and rear sway bar (blue thing), which is coupled to the upper control arm, behind the rear axle.

If you know cars, then you should know this. Ask yourself; which car has that complicated rear suspension? All of that coupled with the V8 and 6 speed manual transmission equals...? What?

Edited by pagicence
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, StudRobotics said:

Did some research on banned race cars. Is it the BMW M3 GTR?

I actually can not believe that you guessed it. YES it is.

I was kind of hopping that it would take some time before someone figures it out.

Edited by pagicence
Posted

It looks very nice! 

Front suspension on strut type in BMWs has two lower arms.

What is the gears ratio in steering? M motor is quite fast, it needs some gearing down.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, skaah said:

Ha, you made the cilinder heads in the colors of the BMW M logo! 

YES, you've noticed! That was the hint to guess.

2 hours ago, tomek9210 said:

Front suspension on strut type in BMWs has two lower arms.

What is the gears ratio in steering? M motor is quite fast, it needs some gearing down.

No, it doesn't. Not on E46. There is 1 control arm, 1 steering link to connect wheel carrier to steering rack and 1 link that connects sway bar.

M motor is directly connected to the rack. It's the smallest motor that takes up the least amount of space, I tried with servo motor but it was too bulky. And from the rack to the steering wheel ratio is 2:1, so the full lock should be pretty close to the real race cars.

Edited by pagicence
Posted
30 minutes ago, pagicence said:

No, it doesn't. Not on E46. There is 1 control arm, 1 steering link to connect wheel carrier to steering rack and 1 link that connects sway bar.

M motor is directly connected to the rack. It's the smallest motor that takes up the least amount of space, I tried with servo motor but it was too bulky. And from the rack to the steering wheel ratio is 2:1, so the full lock should be pretty close to the real race cars.

Oh, I thought e46 also had two lower arms. My mistake.

Posted
25 minutes ago, LvdH said:

I can already tell you your steering setup won't work. It will never go straight unless you use something like an SBrick or train speed remote to slow it down, but those are really uncomfortable to use. I suggest you either add a hockey spring to make it return to centre, or use a servo even if it needs more space. Or make it a fully manual build, the gearbox is already manual anyways. 

I have none of those in LDD, but all of those can be added later for the real build. In this case is form over function. I want an RC car, the gearbox in the real car is manual, I am going for the authenticity.

Posted

For kidney grills I have something in mind, but I'm not sure yet. Aldo the front bumper turned out to be a real pain in the megablocks, a lost 2 days on it and got nowhere. So far I've done the roof, doors and rear quarter panels. Currently I'm working on the roll cage. I won't disclose any details, you'll just have to wait and see when it's finished.

This is my first 1:10 scale car, and I didn't realize that it's going too be a long term project. I was hopping to finish it within 2 weeks, but looks like it's going to be more... a lot more.

Posted

The chassis lacks widthwise structure. This way you will have a lot of flex and eventually parts will disconnect. The lack of a widthwise structure is especially apparent between the struts in the front section.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
2 hours ago, MSc Shobaki said:

I have built the left hub based off of your images and can tell you now that it’s very weak. You need to stiffen it verticaly for it not to snap apart

I don't think that will be enough. It needs to be completely redesigned so that the socket is facing downwards.

On 2/25/2018 at 11:05 AM, Didumos69 said:

The chassis lacks widthwise structure. This way you will have a lot of flex and eventually parts will disconnect. The lack of a widthwise structure is especially apparent between the struts in the front section.

This is important IMO. It's something I didn't integrate into my chassis early on and it proved to be a problem during the later stages. Had to tear the whole thing apart. 

Posted

I like the realism of your chassis.  If im understanding your chassis correctly its on a uni-body frame and that would be a challenge to build.. I hope it works out in the end!!  

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