@KikoTube

I built your axle, and as others have already stated, you need to fix the spring higher by a total of at least 1 stud.

You can see the soft spring is only compressed halfway.

 

I reckon that you could still fit a differential in the center by going old school and not use any of the new wheel hubs and make some of your own.

That would decrease the overall width by 2 studs and provide enough space for a differential.

Edited April 8, 20186 yr by Carsten Svendsen

@KikoTube and @Aventador2004 you should work together because we need the same shock absorber positioning, else the car will be leaned either forword either backwords. 

A slight lean forward would be great though. It gives the car an agressive stance. So a slightly higher rear suspension is better than to have equal heights IMHO

Edited April 8, 20186 yr by Jeroen Ottens
Typo

1 hour ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

@KikoTube

I built your axle, and as others have already stated, you need to fix the spring higher by a total of at least 1 stud.

You can see the soft spring is only compressed halfway.

 

I reckon that you could still fit a differential in the center by going old school and not use any of the new wheel hubs and make some of your own.

That would decrease the overall width by 2 studs and provide enough space for a differential.

Thanks for Building!

The mounting Point will be set higher for sure, but the issue with the Diff in the middle can't be solved.

 

Edit: Does the steering work fine tho?

 

On top is the latest drivetrain, i tried With diffs in every combination i could imagine (not only those) but didn't find anything. Seems to be impossible in 23 wide,even with selfmade hubs.

36 minutes ago, Jeroen Ottens said:

A slight lean forward would be great though. It gives the car an agressive stance. So a slightly higher rear suspension is better than to have equal heights IMHO

I feel the same way. Good Idea... 

Edited April 8, 20186 yr by KikoTube

Not impossible, just tricky. Use the floating diff idea, and use only one Ujoint on each side. 

9 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

Not impossible, just tricky. Use the floating diff idea, and use only one Ujoint on each side. 

Floating Diff in a steered axle is too high for me tbh...

 

Never seem something like that before

 

Edited April 8, 20186 yr by KikoTube

It seems like @letsbuild used my name, I think it fits well.

 

Got an idea...

If  @Aventador2004 has Problems with the Diff too, how about powering the two drivetrains with two seperate motors. It would have the function of a diff...

1 hour ago, Aventador2004 said:

It seems like @letsbuild used my name, I think it fits well.

That was me 

2 hours ago, KikoTube said:

Got an idea...

If  @Aventador2004 has Problems with the Diff too, how about powering the two drivetrains with two seperate motors. It would have the function of a diff...

A center differential; allowing torque steer!

59 minutes ago, Jim said:

That was me 

Either way. I am sure letsbuild will approve.

Wow! Excellent progress!

@KikoTube, that is a good front axle, but you should try to integrate a differential.

@Jim, thank you for changing the topic name that @Aventador2004 suggested.

As @Jeroen Ottens mentioned, a tilt towards the front would be nice, though currently it's a little overboard, I think.

Keep up the good work, everyone!

Edited April 9, 20186 yr by letsbuild

18 hours ago, KikoTube said:

Does the steering work fine tho?

On top is the latest drivetrain, i tried With diffs in every combination i could imagine (not only those) but didn't find anything. Seems to be impossible in 23 wide,even with selfmade hubs.

The steering works fine, but personally I would like to see it have a tighter turn radius. Right now it's not that tight.

I just tried something myself and you are correct, the whole thing would need to be 25 studs wide to normally implement a differential.

1 hour ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

The steering works fine, but personally I would like to see it have a tighter turn radius. Right now it's not that tight.

I just tried something myself and you are correct, the whole thing would need to be 25 studs wide to normally implement a differential.

I arrived at the same conclusion about the width. About the turn radius, a tighter turn radius won't be possible, because of the CV-joints. Their max angle is 20 degrees.

@letsbuild. I think we should take this builder feedback and the problems @Aventador2004 and @KikoTube are experiencing seriously. My suggestion would be to extend the width to 25 studs, so a normal diff layout with 2 CV-joints at.each side is possible. It doesn't really need to change the scale for we might choose to have the wheels sticking out of the body by one stud. Just my opinion.

I agree with @Didumos69, increasing the width to 25 studs would not only allow differentials to be added, but also the use of frames - making the design both simpler and stronger.

3 hours ago, mocbuild101 said:

I agree with @Didumos69, increasing the width to 25 studs would not only allow differentials to be added, but also the use of frames - making the design both simpler and stronger.

I agree as well

It‘s equal for me, cause the axle has a diff now, but on the outside.

 

but ye, it would be simpler..

Yes this would help a ton. I am sure it will improve the car.

Hopefully that allows the space for lots more, like my LSD.

Guys, it is possible to fit everything in 23 studs if you use turn table based wheel hubs. From diff connects CV-joint, then a U-joint, and because U-joint goes into the turn table automatically shortens the hole thing by 1 stud. That means that you don't have to use a floating diff, and you will get more than 20 degrees of travel. This works fine for a rear axle, I tried it. But I don't know will it work on the front axle. I hope I gave you something to think about.

This is how I did it:

(on this picture you can't actually see the U-joint, but you get the point)

Edited April 9, 20186 yr by pagicence
pic insert

1 minute ago, pagicence said:

Guys, it is possible to fit everything in 23 studs if you use turn table based wheel hubs. From diff connects CV-joint, then a U-joint, and because U-joint goes into the turn table automatically shortens the hole thing by 1 stud. That means that you don't have to use a floating diff, and you will get more than 20 degrees of travel. This works fine for a rear axle, I tried it. But I don't know will it work on the front axle. I hope I gave you something to think about.

Did you add the space with the turntable connects to the wheel?

It is at least 1.5L wider than a wheel hub.

What space?

4 minutes ago, pagicence said:

What space?

The connection to the wheel needs another bush, then the wheel has room.

Like this: the first post.

 

Edited April 9, 20186 yr by Aventador2004

Yes, I did. but you only need 0.5 space. That half bush that's inserted there.

Edited April 9, 20186 yr by pagicence

1 minute ago, pagicence said:

Yes, I did. but you only need 0.5 space. That half bush that's inserted there.

I see now. 

2 turntables ready.

11 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I arrived at the same conclusion about the width. About the turn radius, a tighter turn radius won't be possible, because of the CV-joints. Their max angle is 20 degrees.

@letsbuild. I think we should take this builder feedback and the problems @Aventador2004 and @KikoTube are experiencing seriously. My suggestion would be to extend the width to 25 studs, so a normal diff layout with 2 CV-joints at.each side is possible. It doesn't really need to change the scale for we might choose to have the wheels sticking out of the body by one stud. Just my opinion.

Ok, we can extend the wheelbase to 25 studs wide, but we'll need to keep most of the bodywork fairly narrow. Maybe design it to look like it has a widebody kit.

47 minutes ago, letsbuild said:

Ok, we can extend the wheelbase to 25 studs wide, but we'll need to keep most of the bodywork fairly narrow. Maybe design it to look like it has a widebody kit.

Widebody kit sounds really cool !