[MOC] Greyhound 4WD RC Buggy /w instructions - Improved rim-hub connection

[Ctan]

Huh, I have almost done model from LDD, but still need to be merged together and it will be most challenging part of this build :)

I've modded the lightbar, front and rear lights because I want them all glow! (custom leds waiting for soldering). Also I don't want to order second BuWizz becasue I think 2 Sbricks + 2x  750 mAh 3S LiPo will be optimal and cheapest power source for this beast.

 

I've found red, ultra-super-rare (XO) liftarms but it's price is above my expectations so I left black ones on sides (front white will be replaced with black too)

I can't wait to start playing with it!!!!!!

[Permo]

Yes ! .. must have LED's.

Love to see it benig build in all these colors, they all work out great, I guess there will be many more

[Didumos69]

3 hours ago, pagicence said:

@Didumos69 I wouldn't be surprised if LEGO offers you a job as a designer.

Thanks, but I'm afraid they can't afford me.

48 minutes ago, Ctan said:

...

Cool! Are you following the steps in terms of groups in LDD? They will show you how to install the body, albeit assembly by assembly. This one: https://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/4wd-rc-buggy/Greyhound - 4WD RC Buggy - Bld.lxf

Edited June 5, 2018 by Didumos69

[Ctan]

14 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

Cool! Are you following the steps in terms of groups in LDD? They will show you how to install the body, albeit assembly by assembly. This one: https://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/4wd-rc-buggy/Greyhound - 4WD RC Buggy - Bld.lxf

Yes, I was following this file. I've sliced file to groups and build it separately. Later I put all together. I'm still waiting for second Sbrick and I'll need to see where to put it (2 smaller or 1 big battery). I have couple of options and that's why I left space in rear part for the bigger 2200 mAh battery (removed piston engine and M motor). For me SBricks and 3S LiPo work best (set to stable 11,8V) and it's more customisable and cheaper than Buwizz for now.

Also merging together body and chassis won't be too hard, It will need some dissasembly but I know where to put parts now. As you probably know following LDD instructions need a lot of patience, especially for "flying" parts :)
I hope next week it will be fully finished and ready to outdoor ride (I'll make some footage for sure!)
 

[nike-stars]

do you have any plans to make pdf instructions (free/paid) for this buggy? I've tried to analyze the lxf file and it seems very hard to follow the build properly.

Edited June 12, 2018 by nike-stars

[Didumos69]

2 hours ago, nike-stars said:

do you have any plans to make pdf instructions (free/paid) for this buggy? I've tried to analyze the lxf file and it seems very hard to follow the build properly.

Not a PDF, but I will be doing photo sequence instructions. I'm a bit busy at work right now, so give me a few more weeks.

[SilenWin]

Another day with this irresistible buggy

Two fully charged Buwizzes lasted exactly 20 minutes in "ludicrous" mode

[Didumos69]

1 hour ago, SilenWin said:

Another day with this irresistible buggy

You are really punishing this vehicle to the max! This switching between backward drive, forward drive, etc., is the way to break U-joints. Btw, what came loose with the 'boom'-accident? The 6x1 plates?

[SilenWin]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

You are really punishing this vehicle to the max! This switching between backward drive, forward drive, etc., is the way to break U-joints. Btw, what came loose with the 'boom'-accident? The 6x1 plates?

With smaller (98mm) tires I had no more accidents with U-joints :)

"Boom" was caused by pin with "hammer" inside, I think it has some wear after previous runs, because only one steering link on one side falling down again and again. My fault, I should replace it.

 

[metulskie8]

Hello.

I am currently building the model. Could the handlebars in the picture also work?

Instead of the 1 x 6 plate construction?

DSC_0330 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0331 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

Edited June 26, 2018 by metulskie8

[Didumos69]

On 6/22/2018 at 9:13 PM, metulskie8 said:

Hello.

I am currently building the model. Could the handlebars in the picture also work?

Instead of the 1 x 6 plate construction?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155259160@N04/42054533415/in/dateposted/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155259160@N04/41145933730/in/dateposted/

Yes, that should work. It will have a little more slack though. Nice shock absorbers btw!

[technic_addict]

@metulskie8 How much modification did you have to make to make those springs work?  Can you take a photo a little further out to see how they look?

[Ctan]

I have finally done. 

Performance is pretty cool! It work well on single Sbrick (11,8 V) - front L's on single output with polarity switch, back L's and servo each on separate output. After an hour of very intensive playing voltage drops to 10 V and performance was just ok. As far as I saw SilenWin's video my version is a bit faster and have more power. All in all build is totally awesome! Thanks again for sharing your hard work!

[Didumos69]

11 hours ago, Ctan said:

Performance is pretty cool! It work well on single Sbrick (11,8 V) - front L's on single output with polarity switch, back L's and servo each on separate output. After an hour of very intensive playing voltage drops to 10 V and performance was just ok. As far as I saw SilenWin's video my version is a bit faster and have more power. All in all build is totally awesome! Thanks again for sharing your hard work!

Thanks for your report and great images @Ctan! Your left front wheel hub needs some reconnecting .

[metulskie8]

Fail...Sorry

 

 

 

Edited June 26, 2018 by metulskie8

[metulskie8]

16 hours ago, technic_addict said:

@ metulskie8  Wieviele Änderungen müssen Sie tun, damit diese Federn funktionieren? Können Sie ein Foto erstellen?

Hello. It is not changed too much. I will use some pictures. maybe you can understand it. Unfortunately, there are problems with the engine cover.

DSC_0336 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0340 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0339 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0338 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0337 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

 

17 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Ja, das sollte funktionieren. Es wird jedoch ein wenig mehr Spiel haben. Schöne Stoßdämpfer übrigens!

Thanks, I did not have enough of the other shock absorbers. The steering arm is actually quite stable, but I have used an illegal part ....

DSC_0330 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

DSC_0341 by Tilo Endler, auf Flickr

Edited June 26, 2018 by metulskie8

[Didumos69]

@metulskie8, you will run into problems in the back too. It will be a lot of work, but to make it fit you might consider lifting the entire bodywork by one stud, including the black panels in the back.

[metulskie8]

@Didumos69 Mal  sehen, wie ich es mache ... wenn es dir nichts ausmacht, werde ich vielleicht eine ganz andere Karosserie bauen. Oder die Karosserie des Hammerhead ...

Edited June 26, 2018 by metulskie8

[Didumos69]

50 minutes ago, metulskie8 said:

@Didumos69 Let's see how I do it ... if you do not mind, maybe I will build a completely different bodywork. Or the bodywork of the Hammerhead ...

I don't mind at all. Please show us the end result when you're finished!

[technic_addict]

The shocks @metulskie8 used look too large for the front but look nice in the back.  If the modification to use them in the back is straight forward, I would certainly use it.

@Didumos69 I think some people will struggle to build this because of the high cost of the springs.  I wonder if adding a bush (or two) to the spring could eliminate half of them?

[Didumos69]

1 hour ago, technic_addict said:

I think some people will struggle to build this because of the high cost of the springs.  I wonder if adding a bush (or two) to the spring could eliminate half of them?

Something similar has been suggested before, but the whole concept really relies on the strength and the travel of the paired shock absorbers.

I'm afraid this is a collector's item.

[Ctan]

 

1 hour ago, technic_addict said:

The shocks @metulskie8 used look too large for the front but look nice in the back.  If the modification to use them in the back is straight forward, I would certainly use it.

@Didumos69 I think some people will struggle to build this because of the high cost of the springs.  I wonder if adding a bush (or two) to the spring could eliminate half of them?

I can fairly say that it would need even triple springs on back because model is pretty heavy and really needs extra hard springs in this configuration.

[SilenWin]

Some footage from Moscow Downhill summer event with @Didumos69 buggy and other cool cars.

I hope you will like it! 

 

Edited June 29, 2018 by SilenWin

[Void_S]

3 hours ago, SilenWin said:

Some footage from Moscow Downhill summer event with @Didumos69 buggy and other cool cars.

I hope you will like it! 

 

Nice video, thanks! Interesting that 2WD (RWD) and 4WD buggies lands differently: whereas RWD ones do that flawless (except the cases when they touch the ground with suspension liftarms), 4WD must keep the RPM at the same level before the landing, otherwise it can make nose-over because the transmission and motors work like brakes.

Edited June 29, 2018 by Void_S

[Didumos69]

17 hours ago, SilenWin said:

Some footage from Moscow Downhill summer event with @Didumos69 buggy and other cool cars.

I hope you will like it! 

Very nice to see!

13 hours ago, Void_S said:

Nice video, thanks! Interesting that 2WD (RWD) and 4WD buggies lands differently: whereas RWD ones do that flawless (except the cases when they touch the ground with suspension liftarms), 4WD must keep the RPM at the same level before the landing, otherwise it can make nose-over because the transmission and motors work like brakes.

That makes sense.

In the end I think the Greyhound comes into full bloom on a bumpy surface where it can maintain high speed, where it tilts in turns and where you can see the suspension in full action. The name Greyhound is actually quite apt.

Edited June 30, 2018 by Didumos69