Systems tractors and other machinery

[1gor]

@SNIPE this is the idea ...

 

[SNIPE]

Are you wanting to replace the 2 black thin pulleys with a gear?

[1gor]

1 hour ago, SNIPE said:

Are you wanting to replace the 2 black thin pulleys with a gear?

Yes, to save space. This is idea also to save on reduction hubs since reduction hubs have 2 studs connectors that are taking same space as shocks

[vascolp]

Maybe the old 24 tooth crown: ? 

[1gor]

3 minutes ago, vascolp said:

Maybe the old 24 tooth crown: ? 

it is one stud thick; if red 28 tooth differential doublebevel gear had kind of pinholes and not kind of hooks could be usefull (or that Lego redesigns old 40tooth gear to fit that 3 point pin connector)... perhaps it could be fitted ½ stud more inside? I'll try that later today just in case ...

Thank you for your help 

[1gor]

34 minutes ago, vascolp said:

Maybe the old 24 tooth crown: ? 

as you can see it fits perfectly; now i have to make chassis to test it

 

[SNIPE]

cool.

[1gor]

3 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

cool.

so far i have relatively stiff part where this reduction hub is integrated. Only I have to put XL motor 1 stud outer so gears would not rub on XL motor housing ... I'll post images when i finish chassis and axles

[jorgeopesi]

Long time without seeing a very smart and simple idea, thank you for sharing it.

[1gor]

1 hour ago, jorgeopesi said:

Long time without seeing a very smart and simple idea, thank you for sharing it.

No problem about sharing, now keep fingers crossed that it sustains some weight without braking apart...

...but actually all credits go to @vascolp

Edited December 4, 2022 by 1gor

[1gor]

After testing I must say that only traditional way works; reduction gubs should be used as hubs like on 42099 set; so only way is to use like on axle that has angled suspension arms based on Pythagorean theorem 

[2GodBDGlory]

6 hours ago, 1gor said:

it is one stud thick; if red 28 tooth differential doublebevel gear had kind of pinholes and not kind of hooks could be usefull (or that Lego redesigns old 40tooth gear to fit that 3 point pin connector)... perhaps it could be fitted ½ stud more inside? I'll try that later today just in case ...

Thank you for your help 

Actually, I think that idea with the 28T differential gear has the potential to work. I used that basic idea in the rear propellor of my Canadair CL-84 MOC, though it was a non-planetary hub, and it worked well!

[1gor]

7 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Actually, I think that idea with the 28T differential gear has the potential to work. I used that basic idea in the rear propellor of my Canadair CL-84 MOC, though it was a non-planetary hub, and it worked well!
 

Honestly propeller has less friction spinning through the air than wheels that are driving tractor that is supposed to pull something (at least)... I feel honored that you gentleman give me suggestions and share your experience.

[1gor]

Christmas time work on front axle to make something like stiffness...

sorry for bad photo quality 

 

[Jundis]

Ah, thanks Igor!

You posted this before but completely forgot about it.... A shorter liftarm with ball socket is needed desperately! :D

[1gor]

Just now, Jundis said:

Ah, thanks Igor!

You posted this before but completely forgot about it.... A shorter liftarm with ball socket is needed desperately! :D

It was very loooong time ago that I made so.erhing meaningfull, so far only managed to squezze 2 XL motors in Fastrac 4220 chassis(and finally it works very smooth) and now I'm brainstorming how to install m-motor at the rear... since it will have multiple steering modes

[1gor]

On 7/22/2023 at 11:14 AM, Jundis said:

Ah, thanks Igor!

You posted this before but completely forgot about it.... A shorter liftarm with ball socket is needed desperately! :D

If you are interested how re re redesigning of Fastrac is going; now all motors are placed inside central chassis part which includes 2 XL motors for drive, servo for steering (unfortunately no space to put one servo on each axle) one m moror for front pto and one for rear (you can see that one is turned to front and one to rear). Now since I needed more than dozen iterations toake something like that compact and stiff enough, I assume that until end of year I'll find a way how to make front part that will include battery box below bonnet (it remains unchanged) and to enable some stud, stud and half suspension travel on ftont axle.

...now I realized that I forgot to turn of rotation on ma mobile phone...

Special thanks to @Zerobricks, @Philo and @gyenesvi who helped me with their experience when coupling 2 PF XL motors

[1gor]

...at least right side with stairs and toolbox is finished...

...later I have replaced light bluish gray dogbones with black ones on front axle

[1gor]

Finaly left side is made as I wanted, so @eric trax, @Jundis and @Thirdwigg please tell me if I can make something better.

[Ngoc Nguyen]

Can I share this one here?

 

[1gor]

Yes, you are welcome 

[Jundis]

14 hours ago, 1gor said:

please tell me if I can make something better.

The back (technic build) is brilliant, just certain hints of system bricks.

The front is for my taste too much system bricks, but agaiin, this really is my personal taste. Instead of the slopes maye use these on the upper side? However, it wouldn't be that clean. :-/

[1gor]

@Jundis unfortinately I have only 2 of them (for fuel tank); this idea crossed my mind but then I could not make second stairs ½ stud positive offset (to inside) because tractor has a bit amgeled stairs to the left and space on 1:15 scale is 3 studs...

This picture illustrages how left side looks like

 

[1gor]

Front axle and place for battery are finished (and very sturdy). Front axle has one stud suspension travel, so I think becayse it us a tractor (and not range rover) it is acceptable.

[Thirdwigg]

Looking good! I really like those side step modules.