it was still a look-alike mercedes truck.

The pinacle is still the 8480 imo - spare shuttle to submarine

Here is the new version and how it looks like.

That angle will be to sharp for the U-joint, probably.

Yes, it is. The maximum angle is 45°. You can get a little bit sharper, but it won’t be very smooth. 

3 hours ago, Erik Leppen said:

That angle will be to sharp for the U-joint, probably.

 

3 hours ago, LvdH said:

Yes, it is. The maximum angle is 45°. You can get a little bit sharper, but it won’t be very smooth. 

Thank you guys, that's very important, what about now?

45 minutes ago, ttoobbyy said:

Thank you guys, that's very important, what about now?

Can you lower the upper U-joint now? Then the angles of the two U-joints will be more equal.

EDIT: Also, when you rotate one of the U-joints by 45 degree, the 2 U-joints will together approximate a constant velocity joint. That will give the gear-indicator more even steps. When both U-joints make the same angle, they will function as a perfect CV-joint.

Edited June 18, 20186 yr by Didumos69

On 6/16/2018 at 12:13 PM, Didumos69 said:

I say high five @jb70! Great work!

The housing could have been even more elegant without the need to fit it in the rest of the Bugatti. The main gain though, is having 2 less gear meshes in each of the 8 speeds.

I know @ttoobbyy has been sharing ideas on connecting the shift axle.to the rear wing, but I somehow have the feeling that these free holes in the center of the gearbox could be used to route the center shift axle to the back.

To make such a thing work, the mechanism of the rear spoiler should be practically without friction. Also, such a connection should have the least lag possible. Preferably only one gear mesh. If we could somehow replace the liftarm above the rear diff (the one with holes placed vertically) we can extend the center shift axle all the way to the back of the rear diff.

Thanks for all the work!! Has anyone figured out the gear ratios?

30 minutes ago, 1963maniac said:

Has anyone figured out the gear ratios?

For the stock build, yes:

 

5 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

For the stock build, yes:

 

WOW, that's complicated!! 

Very interesting MODs. I'am still waiting to buy this supercar since I find it too much expensive... I will try integrate them when I'll have this car, and try to enhance them (and propose mods as I did for the Porsche, if any)

@Didumos69 : your gearbox MOD is really impressive !

On 6/18/2018 at 2:25 PM, Didumos69 said:

Can you lower the upper U-joint now? Then the angles of the two U-joints will be more equal.

EDIT: Also, when you rotate one of the U-joints by 45 degree, the 2 U-joints will together approximate a constant velocity joint. That will give the gear-indicator more even steps. When both U-joints make the same angle, they will function as a perfect CV-joint.

 

of course. It has planty of space there. Besides, I have also simplify the gear base under it to earn more space. I have fixed my final version and waiting for my spare parts (This is my first lego).

Mean while, I have also came to an idea to fix the problem about the linkage between gearbox and spolier (90 degrees of universal joint is forbidden) It could be solved by using worm gear. This could also help to prevent from control the gear box by touching spoiler.

May I ask, which software are you used for drawing your model? Why my LDD is so ugly and doesn't have neat background as yours?

1 hour ago, ttoobbyy said:

May I ask, which software are you used for drawing your model? Why my LDD is so ugly and doesn't have neat background as yours?

To start with you can use Ctrl-K to make screenshots without the ugly background in LDD. I'll come back with a more extensive answer later.

I have build the Didumos gearbox and it fits and works fine!

Only problem i encounter is that occasionally it doesnt do a full gear shift and the orange cog of the 1-4 gearbox stops at like a 45 degree angle resulting in an incomplete gearshift. I have the idea this sometimes leads to a break in the gear sequence; i observed a couple of times that the orange cogs were out of sync.  I think the high/low gear does switch at this moment resulting in 7 instead of 8 gears. A problem easily solved in this build fase but later on when the the model is complete might be quite a pain to fix.

When i power it with a L motor this happens more often. Besides that i dont get any wheel motion anymore from gear number 4 because the friction is to high.

Edited June 19, 20186 yr by Dragonic

I make a mod to remove the 8th gear in order to have a gearbox like the real Chiron which has only 7 speeds :)

3 minutes ago, chox said:

I make a mod to remove the 8th gear in order to have a gearbox like the real Chiron which has only 7 speeds :)

Why not post some pictures of the mod?

Just now, technic_addict said:

Why not post some pictures of the mod?

Because I have not finished the mod completely for a proper integration :/
may be tomorrow if I have time
 

2 hours ago, Dragonic said:

Only problem i encounter is that occasionally it doesnt do a full gear shift and the orange cog of the 1-4 gearbox stops at like a 45 degree angle resulting in an incomplete gearshift. I have the idea this sometimes leads to a break in the gear sequence; i observed a couple of times that the orange cogs were out of sync.  I think the high/low gear does switch at this moment resulting in 7 instead of 8 gears. A problem easily solved in this build fase but later on when the the model is complete might be quite a pain to fix.

When i power it with a L motor this happens more often. Besides that i dont get any wheel motion anymore from gear number 4 because the friction is to high.

Did you test this with the gearbox mode only, or also with the original gearbox? The incomplete gearshift doesn't sound like something specific to the modded gearbox, because the whole shift mechanism hasn't changed. As for the friction; in the modded gearbox friction should actually be less than in the stock build. It would be valuable if you could share your experience with both the modded and the original gearbox,

new gear indicator v2.0 Built-in indicator !!! I must say, I like it very much!

instead of lifting a ugly pole,why not hide it inside the body! all we need is read the number shows on the indicator. 

Since it has multi layer, thus I decided to show it layer by layer.

Here is the first layer and this is how we look from outside. only the very number will show on the window.

Here is the second, Basically shows the base 

Next layer, this is how we fix the base.

Under that, is how we fix the axle.

I change my find from universal joint in to bevel gears once again :P

The back view, how I simplified the gear base.

And here is how I change from U-joint to worm gear. I think this could work now. As you can see, the red parts shall connect to the grey parts, some elements may not as it should be, just to verify this idea could be mounted.

1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

Did you test this with the gearbox mode only, or also with the original gearbox? The incomplete gearshift doesn't sound like something specific to the modded gearbox, because the whole shift mechanism hasn't changed. As for the friction; in the modded gearbox friction should actually be less than in the stock build. It would be valuable if you could share your experience with both the modded and the original gearbox,

Yours is still better than than the original; there was almost 0 movement with the original when run on an l-motor.

I didnt test the shift mechanism with the original gearbox cause i hadnt build that part yet.

I agree with you that the failed gear switches have probably nothing to do with the modded gearbox.

 

One way to fix the front suspension is to add a spacer to the shocks.

The spare yellow bushing will work but it will make the shocks too strong.

So I ended up cutting the bushing in half and install that on all 4 front shocks

And now the front suspension works perfectly.

 

9 hours ago, TopLvlObj said:

One way to fix the front suspension is to add a spacer to the shocks.

The spare yellow bushing will work but it will make the shocks too strong.

So I ended up cutting the bushing in half and install that on all 4 front shocks

And now the front suspension works perfectly.

 

 

Did you try one spring with a half bush and one spring unchanged?

My news mod (inside the Chiron) with only 7 speed :

 

13 hours ago, TopLvlObj said:

One way to fix the front suspension is to add a spacer to the shocks.

The spare yellow bushing will work but it will make the shocks too strong.

So I ended up cutting the bushing in half and install that on all 4 front shocks

And now the front suspension works perfectly.

 

Why not use a lighter springed shock absorber and anchor the ends closer together?

Found a place for the speed key thing, under the front bonnet you can place it sideways, https://gyazo.com/9f55d95b05f53dfe7ae8bfeef5a02dbf

It won't go anywhere as the axle fits smoothly where I circled yellow https://gyazo.com/ac358e49df8288085b4e231aa01d5c13