42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

[Kumbbl]

@jb70: Great to see the pimped bugatti is makeing good progress: 8<-->1 gear box working smoothly, very well done gear indicator/HoG-gear-switch (BTW: great! ), HoG-steering, working front-suspension - IMHO all essentials are dealed with these mods... thank you  very much (and also too these who have contributed their ideas)...

one remark to the gear-indicator: Could a thin 1x2 black liftarm even be more nice? Not sure if there is a possibility to prevent the vertical axle from peeking out?

[ttoobbyy]

15 hours ago, jb70 said:

 

• This is not only a gear indicator
• It also works perfectly as a HOG gear switch, so it is no longer a pain to reach those paddles beneath the steering wheel.
• The HOG gear switch rotates about 240° to switch through all the 8 gears
• It is easy to operate with less power and clearly rests in each gear position

 

Bravo! You made it while I was still waiting for my package. Well done!

As for the gear ratio, actually, the right one should be 1:2. While pushing 8 times of the gear control paddle (90*8=720 degrees). The indicator need to turn 360 degrees. We can easily achieve this by replacing the first gear connection in to 12:24. I have proved that it is possible in LDD.

My idea changed a little bit. I prefer using it only as a indicator. That's why I came up with ver. 2.0 the built in one. 

Anyway, still so happy to see some one realized my idea!

[jb70]

13 hours ago, Kumbbl said:

@jb70: Great to see the pimped bugatti is makeing good progress: 8<-->1 gear box working smoothly, very well done gear indicator/HoG-gear-switch (BTW: great! ), HoG-steering, working front-suspension - IMHO all essentials are dealed with these mods... thank you  very much (and also too these who have contributed their ideas)...

one remark to the gear-indicator: Could a thin 1x2 black liftarm even be more nice? Not sure if there is a possibility to prevent the vertical axle from peeking out?

Yes, the pimp-up-my-bugatti project is in work, and it makes a lot of fun !

Thank to all your contributions we are making good progress, but I am still not satisfied with these points, I would like to improve:

• The doors are wiggling, they need better guidance and may be a door lock
• The rear suspension is still "sagging" compared to the optimized front suspension from @Didumos69, maybe it just helps to replace all friction pins to non friction, but we have to try.

So does anyone have some ideas to improve these features?

The gear indicator may look better with a thin 1x2 liftarm, but to be used as a switch the thick liftarm is more handy.

[jb70]

For those who are interested, there is a complete LXF available of the original 42083 set by eurobricks member @Migui94:

Official lego sets made in ldd

Edited June 27, 2018 by jb70

[ttoobbyy]

On 6/17/2018 at 7:47 AM, Didumos69 said:

 

I did think of that, but I don't think it's a good idea. It would block the driving rings, but I fear it would allow for too much rotation to actually prevent an undesired shift. Especially when I realize that the 90 degree limiter is all the way in the paddle shifter unit. But more importantly, the wave selectors - which can be regarded as a kind of worm gear - would translate, if not amplify, the rotational force into a longitudinal force applied to the gearbox housing. In other words, you would end up building a very sophisticated mechanism to drive apart the beams to the front and back of the driving rings, with undesired friction in the gearing at the other side of those beams as a result.

I'm convinced that blocking the rotation directly, which has a much bigger chance of actually avoiding a paddle shift, is the better approach. Certainly from a mechanical point of view. And I don't think blocking the rotation is that much more complex compared to blocking the driving rings.

 

On 6/16/2018 at 2:48 PM, jb70 said:

Yes, you are right, my new parts arrived and I test my idea, the axles will turn more than 90 degrees, for an obsessive person, it is unbearable.

After study @jb70 's idea, I came up with a simpler method which requires au minimum only 15 new parts, all of them are regular parts. Maybe it's more friendly for users who don't have much spare parts like me. It can perfectly control speed 1 -> 8 and follow the original structure.

[ttoobbyy]

On 6/16/2018 at 6:13 PM, Didumos69 said:

To make such a thing work, the mechanism of the rear spoiler should be practically without friction. Also, such a connection should have the least lag possible. Preferably only one gear mesh. If we could somehow replace the liftarm above the rear diff (the one with holes placed vertically) we can extend the center shift axle all the way to the back of the rear diff.

 

On 6/19/2018 at 11:28 PM, ttoobbyy said:

And here is how I change from U-joint to worm gear. I think this could work now. As you can see, the red parts shall connect to the grey parts, some elements may not as it should be, just to verify this idea could be mounted.

My idea failed, I test it, although it could be mounted, there are too many gears and too much friction.

There is a contradiction, to rise up spoiler, we need high torque, your hands can tell you that, but right side of the gearbox will only turn 90 degrees, therefore the torque will reduce.

Thus, if we want to connect the gearbox and spoiler, the only method is using left side of the gear control axle. 

[ttoobbyy]

On 6/19/2018 at 10:07 PM, ttoobbyy said:

new gear indicator v2.0 Built-in indicator !!! I must say, I like it very much!

instead of lifting a ugly pole,why not hide it inside the body! all we need is read the number shows on the indicator. 

Since it has multi layer, thus I decided to show it layer by layer.

Here is the first layer and this is how we look from outside. only the very number will show on the window.

 

There is how I achieve this idea. It perfectly divides a circle by 8.  And need to work with 8 speed gearbox. It works fluently, has barely no friction. Although it sacrificed HOG function, it is a step closer to aesthetics. So I think it worth.

 

Edited June 29, 2018 by ttoobbyy
Add video link

[Didumos69]

On 6/28/2018 at 10:15 AM, ttoobbyy said:

After study @jb70 's idea, I came up with a simpler method which requires au minimum only 15 new parts, all of them are regular parts. Maybe it's more friendly for users who don't have much spare parts like me. It can perfectly control speed 1 -> 8 and follow the original structure.

That's a nice gearblock for the original gearbox! Regarding the idea of blocking the driving rings, I appreciate the fact that you want to draw your own conclusions .

19 hours ago, ttoobbyy said:

Thus, if we want to connect the gearbox and spoiler, the only method is using left side of the gear control axle.

Why not the middle control axle?

39 minutes ago, ttoobbyy said:

There is how I achieve this idea. It perfectly divides a circle by 8.  And need to work with 8 speed gearbox. It works fluently, has barely no friction. Although it sacrificed HOG function, it is a step closer to aesthetics. So I think it worth.

Nice indicator! Personally, I would not use tape, but the result is great.

[ttoobbyy]

55 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

Why not the middle control axle?

You ARE absolutely right ! why haven't I expect it! The only thing need to do, is to change 4 gears and remain all the other parts there. 1:5 ratio is of course more powerful. But I am doubt have the courage to disassemble it again 

1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

Nice indicator! Personally, I would not use tape, but the result is great.

If we need to indicate speed, we need something to show the information.

I thought about using exist lego brick that have number on it, which I actually do find them. They are 1*1 tile like   3070bpb061 . 

But the problem is they are too big to hide inside 

 

To assemble the indicator, here is the LDD pictures, and parts that you may need, it may not contain all the necessary parts since I made some modification during assemble. But basically they are right.

 

You may also find .lxf file in my bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/ttoobbyy/gear-indicator

 

[ttoobbyy]

New front cover and Bracket function.

Simple door lock, only need one part

Some modification to improve the door axle strength, but couldn't solve the problem completely.

[Ldon13]

G’day everyone,

I previously commented on suggesting changes to the Top Speed Key slot to be relocated beside the drivers seat, I decided to have a go at it as a first contribution to the thread and in the end after many attempts I was able to make it work with the available space in the chassis,  by only removing 1 Beam Frame that doesn’t require the support to keep it stable. 

Before we go any further I wanted to say that the building experience was fun while listening to the Podcast made it a unique experience overall. The details were impressive in person next to the Porsche especially the back of the Chiron 

When @Seasider mentioned the Chiron is only in LHD, it wouldn’t feel appropriate for a RHD conversion as it doesn’t exist in the real version. So I decided to follow the instruction book instead of image flipping every page on book 1.

The following images has all the modified sections to recreate in your Bugatti with the provided images. There was a lot of limitations with the left-side Beam Frame supporting the spoiler, I spent most of the time on the MOD using the limited space until removing the Beam Frame which helped me continue further.

v1.0 - Relocating the Top Speed Key Slot

Cross Axle Sizes

• Cross Axle 9 (60485) - Spoiler connection, Left-side
• Cross Axle 5 (32073) - Spoiler connection, Right-side handling gear 32269
• Cross Axle 5 (32073) - Behind the shockies handling the gear 32270
• Cross Axle 4 (3705) - Connecting to the Universal Joint
• Cross Axle 7 (44294) - U-Joint to U-Joint

This MOD is fairly simple that requires minor rework on the spoilers supporting Cross Axles by replacing only the left-side yellow Axle Extension 2M with a Hole w/ Pin 15100 and a Angled Connector 32013 on the left-side of the wing bracket not shown below, this helps to keep it stable when the Technic gears are in use. (The Beams were positioned the wrong way when rebuilding it)

There are two Cross Axles of different sizes connecting to the middle Beam 2 x 4, both Cross Axles share the same cross hole as the Cross Axle 14M doesn’t seem to exist in the Technic database. Image below: Cross Axle 5M (Left) and Cross Axle 8M 9M (Right).

Beam Frame removed in yellow and added parts in red.

There are 2 Technic gears 32270 & 32269 that help raise the spoiler to its height but it cannot be tilted forward . As you can see in the image below, there is a gap between the gear 32270 and the yellow Half Bushing piece... Both gears will not connect to each other properly when the 32270 is pushed against the Half Bushing. No problems with it like that but I was thinking of cutting a Half Bushing to fill the gap. I’ve replaced the 8M Cross Axle with a 9M after completing the connection to the key slot, as the 32269 gear wasn’t stabled enough when raising the spoiler. I added in a Beam 5M vertically to prevent up/down movement of the 32269 gear.

I pushed the 32270 gear against the Half Bushing piece and tried raising the spoiler second time, it was unexpect for it to work perfectly now than it did before with both gears barely touching each other when the 32270 gear was against the Half Bushing peice.

Behind the shockies, the Cross Axle 5 can fit through the cleared hole with a Axle Extension 2M (I’ll replace it with a 3M) in between the two beams and on the left is a Axle to a universal joint to another universal joint.

I made a MoC in the image below (Updated) up close has 3 10928 gears next to each other to move the slot further forward to not be hidden behind the blue panel. This MoC is connected to a Steering Knuckle Arm 33299 that the other end inserts in the black bottom panel hole below the Top Speed Key to keep this thing stabled on the frontend, the backend is a pin connected to a Angled Beam 4x3.

Universal Joints placed on 3rd gear in order to work at a 45° angle.

The Top Speed Key inserted into the slot.

Video demonstration, I apologise for the poor quality. 

If you have any questions, you can PM me here or in the comments on my demonstration video. 

 

Edited July 20, 2018 by Ldon13
Updated Images

[JLDC]

Hey guys I was wondering did any of you have a problem getting the gearbox to work

Edited July 15, 2018 by JLDC

[JLDC]

Or should I say can you test it w/ a motor?

 

[LegoHoops]

I've ordered my Bugatti, but it doesn't arrive in New Zealand until next month (August). So decided to get started on the chassis anyway, as I wanted it predominantly Black - except the engine and gearbox.

Some of the specific parts are difficult to get from NZ Bricklink stores, especially the 5x7 beam frame (black), so purchased the Rally Car 42077 as a parts donor in the meantime.

I've built it with the @Didumos69 revised front suspension (thanks for that), a few other tweeks and rear brake calipers in the right place!

Just trying to sort out a solution for a functioning rear wing without the key. 

(Ignore the incorrect black/dark azure panels at the front, just working with what I've got holding it together at this stage)

Chiron rear calipers are at 45 degrees. 

 

Edited July 17, 2018 by LegoHoops
Embedding Image.

[jono rocky]

Not sure if its been done yet but Ive done a rather simple HOG for this car. Here is the link to my Bricksafe folder to the lxf. files. Changed steps 364-373,  step 736,  steps 725-729,   step 376. 

 

[SheldonF]

 

Anyone seen this? 

[LvdH]

I’ve seen something like that before. I’ve tried to remove the black part of a shock once and ended up breaking it, so never again for me.  

[jfb9301]

On 7/17/2018 at 1:45 AM, LegoHoops said:

 

Chiron rear calipers are at 45 degrees. 

 

How did you manage this?

[ctx1769]

A new option extra has just arrived for the Chiron in the form of a glass roof,  who is up for the challenge www.autocar.co.uk

[jb70]

The first release of the "Pimp up my Bugatti" project is available on https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-16181/jb70/42083-pimp-up-my-bugatti.

Thankx for your contributions and have fun to pimp up your Bugatti!

[LvdH]

Thanks a lot for the hard work @jb70! May I ask how much you have to disassemble for these fixes? I’m nearly finished with mine now, way too far in the build to apply any of the mods. 

[jb70]

Yes, it was some hard work in the last weeks. But I enjoyed the work, especially the good ideas and exchange in this forum. 

Edited July 26, 2018 by jb70

[BrickbyBrickTechnic]

4 minutes ago, jb70 said:

Yes, it was some hard work in the last weeks. But I enjoyed the work, especially the good ideas and exchange in this forum. 

This was really interesting to leaf through. Congrats on such an awesome product, and I especially love how you made look like the real Bugatti instructions!

[LegoHoops]

On 7/24/2018 at 10:10 PM, jfb9301 said:

How did you manage this?

By using a Lift-Arm 1x2 with Bar (@ 45 degrees) - Part #85940

Edited July 28, 2018 by LegoHoops

[LegoHoops]

Bugatti finally arrived earlier than excepted. I had built a most of the chassis prior to actually set arriving, so I was able to get rid of the assortment of coloured pins, axles and lift-arms. So chassis is mostly black with with light blue grey engine and gearbox.

Enjoyed building the chassis (marriage), the back end of the car is fantastic, integration of the adjustable wing. If I was to criticise one thing, the biggest disappointment is the doors - floppy. I had brought the Rally Car 42077 for chassis parts so there are some spare dark azure lift-arms to hopefully resolve this. The door handle too is work in progress - disliked the stick-on solution.

Currently the Bugatti is still a work in progress, a few things to tidy up - angled steering wheel, mechanical adjustment of the wing, etc.

Pneumatic hoses used for the symbolic C, wanted it a little bolder and cleaner than the clips and the sticker on the door!

Front end cleaned up a bit, black and grey pins instead of blue, 8L bar with stop rings integrated into the grille area.

Gaps in the front wheel arches closed up too, looks better than filling the space up.

Front seats were modified, set back further in the interior and reclined - not so straight as the originals.

Panel fairing #21/#22 were moved back by one lift-arm to ovalise the cabin area more with the symbolic C, similar to the image below.

Just trying the tone down the dark blue real estate between wheel-arch and cabin.

 

Edited July 28, 2018 by LegoHoops