42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

[stevenhalim]

17 minutes ago, jb70 said:

@stevenhalim, yes, also the real Bugatti Chiron has the "+" paddle on the right hand side:

[image seen and removed]

I found an easy solution to reverse the paddle shifter. Just move the knob gear in the paddle shifter unit to the top.

That solves the issue. Now you can shift up by pulling the right paddle:

Wah clever easy fix jb70 :). Thanks.

I will apply this to my Bugatti soon (will take some time as I need to disassemble quite a few pieces around that area).

Perhaps put it in your Pimp up my Bugatti version 1.2 (if you decide to add more features later after your latest door mod).

[jono rocky]

I have done something similar also, including adding foot peddles. I moved the shifting mechanism up about 3 studs for the brake peddle to activate the rear air brake (almost finished it). The lxf file is here and replaces steps 343-360.

[jb70]

On 8/19/2018 at 6:01 PM, stevenhalim said:

Wah clever easy fix jb70 :). Thanks.

I will apply this to my Bugatti soon (will take some time as I need to disassemble quite a few pieces around that area).

Perhaps put it in your Pimp up my Bugatti version 1.2 (if you decide to add more features later after your latest door mod).

Here you are:

Pimp up my Bugatti v1.2

[Scot-e-dog]

Has anyone come up with a solution for the "lag" when in forward gears?

I have investigated this and come up with the following.

- Before the marriage process, both engine and gearbox are running freely, with minimal friction.

- After marriage, there is no lag in reverse, but lag in all forward gears, but more on some than others.

- My conclusion is that the marriage process is somehow increasing the friction in the forward gearchain, probably as a result of a shaft being pushed hard into a stationary element.

Unless anyone has any better ideas, I am going to retry the marriage process and see if I can play around with each of the shafts that get joined to decrease friction.

I will let you know if I succeed.

[kbalage]

@Scot-e-dog I don't think the marriage itself has anything to do with the lag. You have different amount of gears engaged in the drivetrain depending on the gear selected and due to the backlash of the Lego gears it takes time until the rotation from the wheels reaches the engine, that's all. You can try to remove the cover panels to have a clear visibility on the gearbox and the engine (or at least the output to the engine) and see when it starts to move in different gears.

[Didumos69]

11 hours ago, Scot-e-dog said:

I have investigated this and come up with the following.

- Before the marriage process, both engine and gearbox are running freely, with minimal friction.

- After marriage, there is no lag in reverse, but lag in all forward gears, but more on some than others.

- My conclusion is that the marriage process is somehow increasing the friction in the forward gearchain, probably as a result of a shaft being pushed hard into a stationary element.

Unless anyone has any better ideas, I am going to retry the marriage process and see if I can play around with each of the shafts that get joined to decrease friction.

I will let you know if I succeed.

11 hours ago, kbalage said:

@Scot-e-dog I don't think the marriage itself has anything to do with the lag. You have different amount of gears engaged in the drivetrain depending on the gear selected and due to the backlash of the Lego gears it takes time until the rotation from the wheels reaches the engine, that's all. You can try to remove the cover panels to have a clear visibility on the gearbox and the engine (or at least the output to the engine) and see when it starts to move in different gears.

Yeh, the marriage process does not cause lag, but it can introduce friction like @Scot-e-dog assumes. @kbalage is right about the lag. If you take into account the number of gear meshes (engine to diffs) directly involved in each gear: R::4, 1st: 11, 2nd: 15, 3rd: 11, 4th: 15, 5th: 13, 6th: 17, 7th: 13, 8th: 17, you see why.

11 hours ago, Scot-e-dog said:

Has anyone come up with a solution for the "lag" when in forward gears?

Earlier in this thread we have shown that the gearbox could do with 2 less meshes, which reduces lag. This mod is part of @jb70's pimped up version.

[jfb9301]

20 hours ago, Scot-e-dog said:

Has anyone come up with a solution for the "lag" when in forward gears?

Just for clarification,

"lag" is rather non-specific.

Are we talking about "Backlash"? (there is a helpful definition here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear#Backlash) This is evidenced by multiple rotations of the the tires before the engine starts to turn in the new gear.

or

Are we talking about "Friction"? Evidenced by the shafts being hard to rotate and excess force required to push the model along.

Both of which can be reduced by having less gear meshes. In my build with the stock gearing, I do not seem to have issues with friction. To be clear, I invest a good deal of time on each step of a gear train to ensure that the gears are in their best alignment to reduce rubbing (friction). On the other hand, backlash can be a huge issue with the large pitch and loose clearances of Lego gears. Less meshes will always reduce backlash.

Careful building and good support of axles on both sides of the gear is essential to any Lego build. Friction is easy to cope with.

Backlash is essentially unavoidable in any Lego build, and can be a nightmare in a Lego transmission.

Edited August 22, 2018 by jfb9301

[Scot-e-dog]

2 hours ago, jfb9301 said:

Just for clarification,

"lag" is rather non-specific.

Are we talking about "Backlash"? (there is a helpful definition here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear#Backlash) This is evidenced by multiple rotations of the the tires before the engine starts to turn in the new gear.

or

Are we talking about "Friction"? Evidenced by the shafts being hard to rotate and excess force required to push the model along.

Both of which can be reduced by having less gear meshes. In my build with the stock gearing, I do not seem to have issues with friction. To be clear, I invest a good deal of time on each step of a gear train to ensure that the gears are in their best alignment to reduce rubbing (friction). On the other hand, backlash can be a huge issue with the large pitch and loose clearances of Lego gears. Less meshes will always reduce backlash.

Careful building and good support of axles on both sides of the gear is essential to any Lego build. Friction is easy to cope with.

Backlash is essentially unavoidable in any Lego build, and can be a nightmare in a Lego transmission.

There appears to be two things going on:

1) backlash as a result of traditional lego gearbox issues accounts for 1-1.5 turns of the wheels (depending on what gear you are in), but.....

 

2) once this backlash has been used up, there is additional backlash in some gears where the clutch gear is clearly absorbing the resistance from additional friction.  In this instance, there is also a stored "spring load" which flicks the wheels backwards.

 

The gearbox backlash doesn't bother me.  The potential for excessive friction does.

[jb70]

On 8/21/2018 at 9:46 PM, Scot-e-dog said:

Has anyone come up with a solution for the "lag" when in forward gears?

I have investigated this and come up with the following.

- Before the marriage process, both engine and gearbox are running freely, with minimal friction.

- After marriage, there is no lag in reverse, but lag in all forward gears, but more on some than others.

- My conclusion is that the marriage process is somehow increasing the friction in the forward gearchain, probably as a result of a shaft being pushed hard into a stationary element.

Unless anyone has any better ideas, I am going to retry the marriage process and see if I can play around with each of the shafts that get joined to decrease friction.

I will let you know if I succeed.

@Scot-e-dog, when I first built my Bugatti, I had a similar experience. In my case there was a loose pin in the middle console after the marriage process. The grey liftarm was not really connected to this blue pin with pinhole and by that it caused a lot of direct friction onto the mesh with the white clutch gear inside:

Please check this area in your case.

To avoid this issue, I modified the structure around this gear mesh in the Pimp-up-my-Bugatti MOD like that:

[jfb9301]

I have been working on a couple of ideas for minor improvements to the details of this model.

I have already built a pair of rear caliper mounts, but I am just now getting to Bag 12, so I will soon see whether or not they will work. Here is the LXF for my mounts. 

https://www.bricksafe.com/files/jfb9301/42083/Rear%20Caliper%20mounts.lxf

I got to thinking that I don't like the white behind the headlights. Cars don't have white there, they have chrome. and the rest of the headlight mount is white, where it should be black. I came up with a LXF of a plan to change both of these, but I lack the parts to build them and see what they look like. I'll link the LXF if anyone wants to have a go (and maybe post a picture). If nothing else I will get the parts on bricklink and try them out myself.

https://www.bricksafe.com/files/jfb9301/42083/Headlights.lxf

Once I finish the car I want do something similar to what others have done to bring the tubing around the door sill. I also want to tackle the annoying gap at the top of the front fenders. I am sure that I will find more things that I ant to work on, but those are just what I have spotted for now.

Edited August 25, 2018 by jfb9301

[ikdo]

On 6/9/2018 at 7:04 PM, Didumos69 said:

I built my front suspension MOD. I made one error in the LXF-file. I used friction pins where the extra wishbones are connected to the vertical 5L thin levers, where it should have been frictionless pins. I fixed that in the LXF-file.

I checked it's strength and I think it's good. With a weight of over 1500gr it only just starts to compress, the wishbones are flat at a weight of over 2000gr and the suspension is fully compressed at about 2800gr. Does anybody know what the weight of the Bugatti is and how it's divided over the front and rear axles? The only thing I'm not completely happy with is the rigidity of the bent liftarms sticking the top. Will see if I can improve that.

Hi everyone,

Did anyone carried out this improvement? If so, can you take a short video to show the improvement in the rebound in the completed model?

Thanks, 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 30, 2018 by ikdo
error

[Didumos69]

9 minutes ago, ikdo said:

Hi everyone,

Did anyone carried out this improvement? If so, can you take a short video to show the improvement in the rebound in the completed model?

Thanks,

Yes (see the post below), and it has been included in @jb70's Pimp-up-my-Bugatti MOD.

[ikdo]

Thanks for your quick response!

[wissamms]

Here is one awesome MOC and improvement :D

 

https://www.facebook.com/LEGOTechnic/vi ... 947766986/

[Bebboclaud]

On ‎7‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 7:45 AM, LegoHoops said:

I've ordered my Bugatti, but it doesn't arrive in New Zealand until next month (August). So decided to get started on the chassis anyway, as I wanted it predominantly Black - except the engine and gearbox.

Some of the specific parts are difficult to get from NZ Bricklink stores, especially the 5x7 beam frame (black), so purchased the Rally Car 42077 as a parts donor in the meantime.

I've built it with the @Didumos69 revised front suspension (thanks for that), a few other tweeks and rear brake calipers in the right place!

Just trying to sort out a solution for a functioning rear wing without the key. 

(Ignore the incorrect black/dark azure panels at the front, just working with what I've got holding it together at this stage)

Chiron rear calipers are at 45 degrees. 

 

Hi,

can you take a picture behind the calipers to see how you build it?

Thanks.

Edited September 18, 2018 by Bebboclaud

[LvdH]

2 hours ago, Bebboclaud said:

Hi,

can you take a picture behind the calipers to see how you build it?

Thanks.

This  part attached to a pin, and the clips attached to the bar.

[jfb9301]

Also you can look at my alternative (using what I feel are more common parts)

https://www.bricksafe.com/files/jfb9301/42083/Rear%20Caliper%20mounts.lxf

I built this alternative into my build, and it works with the stock calipers.

[jono rocky]

I have finished my mods to the Bugatti. With thanks to pimp my Bugatti for the gearbox, front suspension and Hog. Ive added

Working door handles, openable glove box, rear brake light, higher mounted shifter with foot pedals and + gears on the right side, gear selected display next to the shifter (using the sticker numbers on the sheet), 7th gear limiter 7-1 1-7 as the real cars 7 speeds, 45deg rear calipers and lastly a working rear spoiler brake.

The spoiler brake can be activated by either pushing a axle on the dash down, pushing the brake pedal or manually at the back left with the key (where the raising of the spoiler use to be). Move the manual raising of the spoiler to the right side. the brake does not affect the spoiler when its in the down position. I left gravity to do the work for the brake part of the spoiler to fall down as when being played with, the spoiler brake lifts and falls with fast sudden stops (a request from my middle son).

lxf file here of the mods used above.

 

http://vimeo.com/291827046 A link to the video, sorry cant seem to get it ti work.

[letsbuild]

Has anyone tried putting Porsche wheels on the Bugatti?

[Seasider]

57 minutes ago, letsbuild said:

Has anyone tried putting Porsche wheels on the Bugatti?

Why would you want to do that ? :)

you’d have to change the hubs over too from what I recall when I build both as the wheels mount differently on the Bugatti 

[letsbuild]

1 hour ago, Seasider said:

Why would you want to do that ? :)

you’d have to change the hubs over too from what I recall when I build both as the wheels mount differently on the Bugatti 

I would do that because lego.

the wheels could just have pins inserted, I believe, then that would fit on to the hubs.

[SamuelYsc]

10 hours ago, letsbuild said:

I would do that because lego.

the wheels could just have pins inserted, I believe, then that would fit on to the hubs.

It can't, it won't fit. I have tried it, for some how something is blocking them to connect together. If you really want it, you may try add 2x4185( 6hole Technic Wedge Belt Wheel) and 3 more 2780 (black pin) or just use 3 6558 blue pin

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

And also, here is my try for the 45 degrees Rear calipers.

Edited October 7, 2018 by SamuelYsc
type error

[letsbuild]

On 10/6/2018 at 9:07 PM, SamuelYsc said:

It can't, it won't fit. I have tried it, for some how something is blocking them to connect together. If you really want it, you may try add 2x4185( 6hole Technic Wedge Belt Wheel) and 3 more 2780 (black pin) or just use 3 6558 blue pins.

Thanks!

[Supermc225]

How about making the body removable? Is that even possible with the set?

[ctx1769]

Getting the bugatti today so shall be studying this thread abit more carefully