42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

[Paul Boratko]

Very disappointed to find out that the new hubs do not work with the Porsche wheels.. They do work well with the smaller wheels(42077), especially since you can attach them with 3 black friction pins and it eliminates the play between the pins and the holes that the older hubs had... However, the offset is 1/2 a stud different when using the new hubs compared to the old one, so this is NOT as good.

Edited June 2, 2018 by Paul Boratko
Whoops.. Wrong thread..

[JonathanM]

@Paul Boratko That's weird - I'd have thought it should work with both, as both the Porsche and 42077 wheels fit the same hub piece (92909)? Is it due to the spokes or something?

[Paul Boratko]

The center of the smaller wheels fit into the center of the new hub allowing the friction pins to lock into place, but the Porsche rim doesn't do this, so the friction pins come up a bit short from opening and snapping into position...

Edited June 2, 2018 by Paul Boratko

[Appie]

So, going by @Didumos69 gearbox images and how it works, it's basically a 4-speed gearbox with a low/high selector added to that, just like the DB11.

Perhaps it is possible to remove 1 driving ring on the high/low side if it's possible to make a 180 degree turn instead of 90 on that axle? Less gears, less friction, happier drivetrain? Added bonus could be like in the DB11: can't switch over from 8 to 1 (at least according to brickset review that's also a thing on the Chiron). 

Or more simple: just keep the 2 driving rings, but remove half of the gears so that one of each output remains and with this added free space add a gearblock 2L liftarm with axle and pinhole like the mod for the Porsche (assuming there's space around that now free space on the Chiron) so you can't go 8>1. Could that work? 

Edited June 3, 2018 by Appie

[SheldonF]

Did anyone get an extra light grey flex axle? I got 3 of the medium size one ( not sure exact length). Did I miss a step in the build? I checked the parts list and it shows the build has 2, but I got 3. Also, tried changing this. I'm undecided if it looks better or worse. What do you guys think?

 

https://imgur.com/a/IY7uZlE

 

It's rough..I used a pneumatic hose but I will replace with an 11 Flex axle. I think the C line looks a lot nicer, especially from far. 

[Pvdb]

Regarding the gearbox.  If it is in neutral or reverse gear then we select forwards, which forward gear will the gearbox be in?  I assume it will be the gear that it was left in and not necessarily first gear.

[Didumos69]

6 hours ago, Appie said:

Or more simple: just keep the 2 driving rings, but remove half of the gears so that one of each output remains and with this added free space add a gearblock 2L liftarm with axle and pinhole like the mod for the Porsche (assuming there's space around that now free space on the Chiron) so you can't go 8>1. Could that work?

I think that might work. You do need to get all orientations exactly right. Also the orientation of the gear selector in the first (low/high) gearbox. In the stock gearbox the only thing you have to get right is the orientation for the 2l-lever with towball inserted that switches the first gearbox. It should switch the first gearbox when the second gearbox switches from its 4th to its 1st gear or from its 1st to its 4th gear. Apparently some reviewers did this wrong.

EDIT: Another thing that bothers me is that drive flows from first to second gearbox via 3 16t clutch gears rotating on axles that have different speed.

20 minutes ago, Pvdb said:

Regarding the gearbox.  If it is in neutral or reverse gear then we select forwards, which forward gear will the gearbox be in?  I assume it will be the gear that it was left in and not necessarily first gear.

Correct.

Edited June 3, 2018 by Didumos69

[Kumbbl]

26 minutes ago, Pvdb said:

Regarding the gearbox.  If it is in neutral or reverse gear then we select forwards, which forward gear will the gearbox be in?  I assume it will be the gear that it was left in and not necessarily first gear.

Yes... and IMHO it is also not really easy to ensure that you can only switch from 1st to neutral rsp reverse - as with the Porsche and its 4 speed gearbox this was easy  by blocking the switching knobwheel suitable - but because with a 8 speed gearbox the switching knobs make not just one but two full cycles when switching once completely all speeds you would need a mechanism which "counts" these two cycles - maybe a gearrack which slides slightly after each gear change and which appropriately prevents  the DNR box from being switchable unless when 1st gear is selected...

@Appie: how has the DB11 of Jeroen solved this (if it has)?

[abrahamandentity]

I’m not a big fan of the model’s colour. Blue just doesn’t do it. Why not replace it with some black, red etc? It might improve the look of the model. 

[agrof]

I was also thinking about that, unfortunately there is not much color variety of certain parts available. Still, I would buy this in a heartbeat (or in full black):

More edited pics HERE.

Edit: Although I must admit, some color really adds to the appearance.

Edited June 3, 2018 by agrof

[Bartybum]

@agrof Can you try in white gold/tan + black like below?

https://goo.gl/images/Wv5q9M

[Appie]

1 hour ago, Kumbbl said:

how has the DB11 of Jeroen solved this (if it has)?

On the DB11 reverse just bypasses the gearbox like on the Chiron, so can switch from any gear to reverse on that as well. 

[agrof]

9 minutes ago, Bartybum said:

@agrof Can you try in white gold/tan + black like below?

Sorry, I am not Photoshop expert, this quick saturation and hue settings are the best I can do for now.

[Jeroen Ottens]

1 hour ago, Kumbbl said:

Yes... and IMHO it is also not really easy to ensure that you can only switch from 1st to neutral rsp reverse - as with the Porsche and its 4 speed gearbox this was easy  by blocking the switching knobwheel suitable - but because with a 8 speed gearbox the switching knobs make not just one but two full cycles when switching once completely all speeds you would need a mechanism which "counts" these two cycles - maybe a gearrack which slides slightly after each gear change and which appropriately prevents  the DNR box from being switchable unless when 1st gear is selected...

@Appie: how has the DB11 of Jeroen solved this (if it has)?

In my DB11 I prevent the high-low switcher from switching more than 180 degrees. This way you can't switch from 1 to 8 or vice versa. I can imagine that blocking the 2L lever with towball to go full 360 will achieve the same effect.
It doesn't automatically switch back to 1st when switched to neutral (although I have thought of mechanisms to do that, but most of them relied on some sort of wind-up elastic, which gave too much tension in the structure when in 8th gear or too little force when in 2nd gear)

[Bartybum]

21 minutes ago, agrof said:

Sorry, I am not Photoshop expert, this quick saturation and hue settings are the best I can do for now.

Yeah it should be able to be done with hue changes :D

[technicfan]

Can someone try replacing the blue soft axle in the horseshoe in the front with just the grey hose and remove the grey connectors?, just want to see how it looks.

[efferman]

On sariels speedbuild video at 8:18 is to see where the dampers are mounted on the front suspension. Put the damper one hole closer to the wheels should reduce the suspension problem and make it much more stiff.

[LvdH]

6 minutes ago, efferman said:

On sariels speedbuild video at 8:18 is to see where the dampers are mounted on the front suspension. Put the damper one hole closer to the wheels should reduce the suspension problem and make it much more stiff.

Sariel made a building mistake. It is supposed to be closer to the wheel. 

[efferman]

Ok, i make errors at building sets too, but this one is strange.

[T Lego]

As soon as I get my hands on this set I will definitely mod it. My main goal will be to make working discbrakes with the new disc part and this part: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=42646#T=S&O={"iconly":0} Synchronizing it with the rear wing with the brakes would be awesome too, but I am not sure yet if I will be able to do this... 

[Appie]

38 minutes ago, efferman said:

Ok, i make errors at building sets too, but this one is strange.

It gets even weirder because in Brickset's review they are mounted at the angle desired angle (or at least the better angle than vertical), yet they claim to have an issue similar to Sariel (though not sure if it stays flat on the ground in their model).

From brickset review:

Quote

5. All wheels have suspension

However, the weight of the body is such that after pressing down above a wheel, the chassis does not return to its original position (thanks to Sariel for pointing this out).

Edited June 3, 2018 by Appie

[Lox Lego]

58 minutes ago, LvdH said:

Sariel made a building mistake. It is supposed to be closer to the wheel. 

Sariel definitely made an error. Here is the proper design from the instructions: 

 

From my observation the front still does not return to original height, and after a short time the Bugatti will be sitting on the ground in your display case. 

 

Edited June 3, 2018 by Lox Lego

[agrof]

@Lox Lego Does the front suspension work for You OK? Does the spring misplacement cause the no-suspension issue, or is it just as wrong with original setup? Could You make an analysis what could be the root cause?

@Bartybum Easy hue setting work only for base colors (seems to), other shades start to pixelize.

Edited June 3, 2018 by agrof
added questions

[Didumos69]

@Appie, @Jeroen Ottens, @Pvdb, I think @Appie's idea for a gearblock should work. With a proper gearblock for avoiding 8th-to-1st gearshifts, only the front two clutch gears are needed in the 1st (right) gearbox, because that gearbox only needs two of its 4 positions (in the original it uses all 4 positions, but toggles between two speeds).

Leaving out the other 2 clutch gears in the back and the 16t gear they mesh with, creates space for exactly that gearblock. In the background the original, in the foreground the mod. The piece sticking out at the top side is a 4x2 liftarm.

For this to work properly it is required that the orange gear selector for the first gearbox and the 2l lever with towball inserted that switches the 1st gearbox have the right orientation: There should always be one of the two remaining clutch gears engaged.

@Kumbbl, in fact the gear selector axle of the first gearbox counts the cycles of the gear selector axle of the second gearbox. But it will be hard to have this flow back to the DNR in order to avoid switching to reverse in other than 1st gear.

 

Edited June 4, 2018 by Didumos69

[Wolf_Zipp]

2 hours ago, agrof said:

@Lox Lego Does the front suspension work for You OK? Does the spring misplacement cause the no-suspension issue, or is it just as wrong with original setup? Could You make an analysis what could be the root cause?

One hole make much difference:

IMG_20180603_155740 by Wolf Zipp, auf Flickr

It´s factor 3