Touc4nx Posted September 25, 2019 Author Posted September 25, 2019 I started the digital building Quote
Touc4nx Posted September 29, 2019 Author Posted September 29, 2019 (edited) The full bodywork is done. However, the price is already pretty high, without the use of the black pins : Edited September 29, 2019 by Touc4nx typewriting error Quote
LvdH Posted September 29, 2019 Posted September 29, 2019 Great work so far! By the way, the Studio prices are based on averages of new pieces. It’ll be approximately half if you buy used Quote
Touc4nx Posted September 29, 2019 Author Posted September 29, 2019 1 hour ago, LvdH said: Great work so far Thanks and for the price I didn't knew that but it seems logic ;) Quote
KD123 Posted September 29, 2019 Posted September 29, 2019 Amazing Work! Only thing I'd recommend is considering the use of flexaxles to form the shape of the fenders. Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 12, 2019 Author Posted October 12, 2019 On 9/29/2019 at 3:36 PM, KD123 said: use of flexaxles It's done on the real model, it's just not visible in the render as Stud.io doesn't allow to flex the axle great. By the way it's been a long time since I haven't uploaded anything new because I was working on the chassis. So now I'm proud to present you the whole car : I will now start doing the instructions for it. Just for fun, here is the gearbox : Hope you like it. And have a nice day. Quote
LvdH Posted October 12, 2019 Posted October 12, 2019 Fantastic job! I just might have to build this. Are there any exceptionally rare or expensive parts? Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 13, 2019 Author Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) On 10/12/2019 at 11:57 AM, LvdH said: exceptionally rare or expensive parts I don't think, just looking at it, however if you want to get rid of every visible blue pins it will be expensive. And there is also a decent amount of black 3L axle. And 16 6L thin Liftarm in light bluish grey. You will need a 4.5cm long pneumatic tube in grey : It's to make the Turbo : You also need two 16L soft axle in black. And I made the car using a BuWizz to get a pseudo-decent performance. I think that's all, if I find any other part that might be rare or expensive I will tell you. Edited October 18, 2019 by Touc4nx Added some Rare/Expensive parts Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 18, 2019 Author Posted October 18, 2019 Instructions are coming along nicely. For now I just have made the chassis and the gearbox. And it's already 341 pages long Quote
Nazgarot Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Touc4nx said: Instructions are coming along nicely. For now I just have made the chassis and the gearbox. And it's already 341 pages long How do you get correct ackerman geometry with this steering setup? It seems to me that this makes the outer wheel turn more than the inner wheel... Is there something I'm not seeing with KPI angle that affects the geometry, or is there another way you are getting the angles right? -ED- Quote
Gray Gear Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 10 hours ago, Nazgarot said: How do you get correct ackerman geometry with this steering setup? It seems to me that this makes the outer wheel turn more than the inner wheel... Is there something I'm not seeing with KPI angle that affects the geometry, or is there another way you are getting the angles right? -ED- The Link is mounted further inside than the joint the steerin pivots on - thats all you need Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 19, 2019 Author Posted October 19, 2019 Here are some schematic to clarify it @Nazgarot: The blue line represent the inner wheel and the pink represent the outer wheel. Quote
Nazgarot Posted October 20, 2019 Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) This would be correct if the steering rack was behind the wheels, but with it in front it should be oposite unless the KPI angle shifts the wheels more/less sharply due to height of attachment of the steering rod changing as the wheels are turned... Se illustration of typical ackerman geometry. May it be an anti ackerman setup for some reason? I can't say it will be a problem, but a deeper explanation of why using an anti ackerman or why I'm wrong would be nice (I always like to learn something new). :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry -ED- Edited October 20, 2019 by Nazgarot Corrected spelling Quote
Gray Gear Posted October 20, 2019 Posted October 20, 2019 I did not realize the links were in front of the axle. Yes, this seems to be a problem. Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 21, 2019 Author Posted October 21, 2019 13 hours ago, Nazgarot said: deeper explanation of why using an anti ackerman I'm sorry but I can't help you, it works but I don't know why maybe as you suggested it has to do with the kingpin inclination and caster angle ? Here is two picture if that can help. Quote
Nazgarot Posted October 21, 2019 Posted October 21, 2019 Well, thanks anyway for taking time to post the picks. I'll have to do some research on this. Could be very helpful in future builds if I can find out why it works. -ED- Quote
Gray Gear Posted October 21, 2019 Posted October 21, 2019 Well, I dont get it. It seems to work, even though it shouldn't. It is bothering me, if someone can explain this please do. I am no expert in this field. Quote
Touc4nx Posted October 26, 2019 Author Posted October 26, 2019 Just a quick update as I'm doing the instructions : you can download a .csv with the part list here. Quote
Touc4nx Posted November 12, 2019 Author Posted November 12, 2019 Step 1000 of the instruction is here. Instruction are 90% done. Then I will have to check if they are right (and buildable) Anyway here is a render of the different colored ones (the background isn't part of it) Quote
Touc4nx Posted December 10, 2019 Author Posted December 10, 2019 Ho Ho Ho, Santa is bringing you presents. (Jokes apart it's been a long time since I hadn't updated this project) The car is finally finished and I have done and checked the instructions. It's a 1218 pages long pdf with detailed instructions. It's made out of 1224 steps for 2892 parts. I'm considering to sell the instructions for roughly 10 to 12 € as I put a lot of time to make them. I was just wondering if I can legally sell the instructions by calling it a Subaru or if I have to ask permission to the brand for that. Anyway you can download a little sample of the instructions here. And as a bonus here are some pictures and renders. The "most wanted" pic Some renders of different parts And the gearbox And finally; why have one car when you can have two times the same ? Hope you like it. Touc4nx Quote
Meatman Posted December 10, 2019 Posted December 10, 2019 The wheels look a bit small for this scale. Quote
Gray Gear Posted December 11, 2019 Posted December 11, 2019 12 hours ago, Meatman said: The wheels look a bit small for this scale. It might seem that way because of the wheel arches being so narrow in the rear. It makes the wheel look smaller in comparison to the body. Wheel arch shaping&Fitment are very important in a car, as it can easily mislead the human eye and make things look off. I dislike the rear wheel arches, because I hate using these angle connectors for shaping wheel arches. But the rest of the car turned out really nice, especially the white one. Very recognizable Quote
Touc4nx Posted December 11, 2019 Author Posted December 11, 2019 4 hours ago, Gray Gear said: dislike the rear wheel arches, because I hate using these angle connectors for shaping wheel arches. I have to totally agree with this statement, I'm not a big fan of it but for budget reason I did it like that I could have used the same setup as the front one (a 19L soft axle) but the rigidity of the build was compromised. Quote
Gray Gear Posted December 11, 2019 Posted December 11, 2019 Are the rear wheel arches narrower than the front ones? Quote
Touc4nx Posted December 11, 2019 Author Posted December 11, 2019 (edited) Yes, the front ones are 10 studs wide and the rear one only 9 studs wide. I wasn't able to go closer for the front one and keeping the possibility to steer Edited December 11, 2019 by Touc4nx Quote
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