Hello everyone!

I'm working on my first 100% designed MOC - and I'm building the actual model from LDD into real bricks and stumbled on a problem when building IRL.

The vehicle I'm building is the Buck Rogers Starfighter and I'm using the 30360 Engines as the sides of the vehicle. 

The problem that I'm having is that the nose and engines of the starfighter are very long, and connect to the 30360 Engines at each end using a 6143 Round Brick. Which means just about every time I pick up the model and even touch the engines or the nosecones - they fall off. 

I'm trying to figure out how to reinforce this connection somehow but I'm stumped. I've put a pin (30374 Blade) through the Brick and the Reflector which makes that whole connection very solid - but it's that white Round Brick and where it connects to the engine that just cannot support the weight. 

Any builders out there have any ideas how to do this better? It's frustrating since the overall shape of the model and design I'm super happy with - it's just these end connections need to be stronger.

Thanks!

 

 

Can't you rotate the 30360 engine part and use the antistuds?

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by TeriXeri

Use a longer bar than 30374.

I don't have one of the engine pieces handy to play with, but there are a few things you might try:

Substitute three 2x2 round plates for the round brick. The extra surface contact with the studs might be enough to keep it secure.

The 2x2 round brick has been redesigned a couple times. The original version had a different design on the underside. It may give you a stronger connection. Try one of the transparent colors, too. They sometimes grip more strongly.

You could try inserting a Technic bush in between the four studs inside the engine and using a longer bar inserted into it. You would not be able to attach anything to the studs because the bush would be in the way, but they fit very snugly, usually, and it might be strong enough to hold the cone assembly.

Thanks everyone for the tips.

Ok so the problem is the 2x2 Round Piece into the 30360 engine. Unfortunately there is no Technic receiver in the Engine Piece, or that would solve the problem. So the weak point is the whole weight of the engine going into those 4 inset studs. 

I will try some other 2x2 rounds to see if there is a different one. Do you know what I might be looking for?

I'm going to play with some other attempts that have been suggested. 

@TeriXeri your elegant solution is not a bad one! It alters the astetic but does seem to hold better simply due to less connections. I will reserve this if I can't some up with an alternative! 

6 minutes ago, Corellian Corvette said:

I will try some other 2x2 rounds to see if there is a different one. Do you know what I might be looking for? 

The slots on the underside of the older bricks are more squared off, where the newer ones are rounded. It's difficult to describe, but I'll see if I can add a photo later. One quick way to tell the difference is the axle hole in the oldest version was flush with the top of the brick, where later ones have a somewhat recessed hole.

Could you use 93168 instead of 30360? The new version has an indent for a cross axle.

@dougman51 thanks for that TIP!

As it turns out, I think the simplest solution is the best. Simply by taking @TeriXeri suggestion of rotating the cylinder, that created a stronger bond. I slipped a 10 Cross Axle in the middle of the whole engine assembly, which left enough on the other end to hold into the hole. I tried that on the physical model and it helped A LOT. 

NOW - If I swap the engine with a 93168, then truly problem solved. I'll have a cross axle all the way through the engine and into the cylinder, and will hold great. THANK YOU