42099 - 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader

[lamaii]

Did anyone building this model find it a little disappointing, with under 1000 pieces, no engine, poor details (seats, body etc) issue with the rear suspension being firmer than the front and disappointing slow speed, it feels like this model was sold on the control+ system. Have to say glad I never paid full price got it for £130 when it was on offer at Argos last week. This does make me concerned about buying the 42100 set, I've got both 42082 & 42055 they are both around the 4K piece and the price between £120 - £150 so I just cannot see the extra £250 in the 42100 and I think I'll be waiting for a sale to arrive.

[Eaglefan344]

3 hours ago, lamaii said:

 

I did the gear switch on mine and am happy with the improved torque but it moves insanely slow. If I just switched one of the gears instead of both, would that give me a happy medium? Or does it not work like that at all? 

 

And sorry for the quote, when I hit reply on my phone it automatically quotes the previous post. 

[kbalage]

@Eaglefan344 check out this post, it might help

[Eaglefan344]

1 hour ago, kbalage said:

@Eaglefan344 check out this post, it might help

Thanks. I did the "5 min upgrade where you swap the inner and outer sets. I guess my question is, if I switch the outer set back to the default orientation, would speed improve while still keeping some of the extra torque? 

[kbalage]

@Eaglefan344 by default you have 2 set of 20T/12T gears on each axle (4 set of gears altogether), and all of them are gearing up. The 5 min upgrade swaps one set of gears on each axle so you have set gearing up and one seat gearing down, having a 1:1 ratio between the motor and the differential.

• Original – 1:1,667 * 1:1,667 = 2,778
• “5 minute upgrade” (swapping one set) – 1:1,667 * 1,667:1 = 1
• Stage 2 upgrade (replacing one set with two 16T gears) – 1,667:1 * 1:1 = 0.6
• Super slow (swapping both set of gears) = 1,667:1 * 1,667:1 = 0.36

If I understand you correctly you swapped all 4 sets of gears, that will really make the car super slow. Swap back one set of gears on both axles and that'll be my 5 min upgrade.

[M_longer]

A direct size comparison between new Control+ elements and their Power Functions counterparts:

The C+ Hub is 5 studs high, 9 studs wide and 9 studs long.

L motors is 4 studs high, 3 studs wide and 8 studs long.

XL motor is 5 studs high, 5 studs wide and 8 studs long.

Basically C+ XL motor is a little bulkier L one, but with several more mounting points. Both are longer (1 to 2 studs) that their PF counterparts, while other dimensions remain unchanged.

The Hub is much more larger than PF battery box. We get built-in remote controll via Bluetooth, but with cost of more space used in the model.
The PF motors required an IR receiver to work with remote, but it could be placed in various places in the model, even far away from battery box, thanks to extension cables, which does appeared in the C+ line so far.

Thanks to @Philo, who made all C+ elements for Ldraw :)

 

[Eaglefan344]

10 minutes ago, kbalage said:

@Eaglefan344 by default you have 2 set of 20T/12T gears on each axle (4 set of gears altogether), and all of them are gearing up. The 5 min upgrade swaps one set of gears on each axle so you have set gearing up and one seat gearing down, having a 1:1 ratio between the motor and the differential.

• Original – 1:1,667 * 1:1,667 = 2,778
• “5 minute upgrade” (swapping one set) – 1:1,667 * 1,667:1 = 1
• Stage 2 upgrade (replacing one set with two 16T gears) – 1,667:1 * 1:1 = 0.6
• Super slow (swapping both set of gears) = 1,667:1 * 1,667:1 = 0.36

If I understand you correctly you swapped all 4 sets of gears, that will really make the car super slow. Swap back one set of gears on both axles and that'll be my 5 min upgrade.

I only swapped the 2 sets in your 5 min upgrade. I feel it's really slow though. I was wondering if it's possible to just swap 1 set (the inside set in the 5 min upgrade) or if that would prevent it from working. 

[kbalage]

1 hour ago, Eaglefan344 said:

I only swapped the 2 sets in your 5 min upgrade. I feel it's really slow though. I was wondering if it's possible to just swap 1 set (the inside set in the 5 min upgrade) or if that would prevent it from working. 

You can't swap gears only on one axle, there'd be a speed difference between the front and rear wheels.

[Ngoc Nguyen]

My app detects the lifting angle the wrong way. When I lift the rear axle up, the app shows that the front axle is lifted, and vice versa.

Does anyone encounter that problem?

 

 

[efferman]

And when you are rotating the hub?

[Ngoc Nguyen]

Just now, efferman said:

And when you are rotating the hub?

Im not sure if the tilting angle is viewed from the back of the front

[Eaglefan344]

44 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

My app detects the lifting angle the wrong way. When I lift the rear axle up, the app shows that the front axle is lifted, and vice versa.

Does anyone encounter that problem?

 

 

I liked the hub backwards with the button more accessible. Is that how you have it? 

[Ngoc Nguyen]

7 minutes ago, Eaglefan344 said:

I liked the hub backwards with the button more accessible. Is that how you have it? 

Yeah. It turns out the instruction says the sise with the green button shoukd face inward, but I put it outward. I prefer that way, as it allows easier access, and I thought such an intuitive position should be the official one. Turns out I was wrong.

[jabz10]

Would it be possible to build a winch with a power up M motor and connect it to the unused D port on the hub?

[Zerobricks]

4 hours ago, jabz10 said:

Would it be possible to build a winch with a power up M motor and connect it to the unused D port on the hub?

Of course, but you would need a third party app to control the modified model.

[gregorski904]

[Andman]

I build mine yesterday. During the build I took care that all gears are running with minimised friction. But still I can hear a rattling sounds from somewhere around the diff. Haven't located where it comes from exactly. Did you guys made the same experience?

[efferman]

The bevel gears in the diffs are not running smooth.

[Andman]

I had a closer look. It can be the middle bevel gear in the diff, if torque is applied to it and the diff is not or very slowly rotating. But most of the times it is the 20t bevel gear which drives the diffs. Even with little load the bevel gear is pushed away from the diff and against the lift arm frame. So it's basically the same issue which was mentioned here.

But I hear also a click sound which I cannot I explain.

[Jim]

I am currently working on my review and I am thinking about swapping out some of the orange, blue, green and red parts with black or grey, to match the chassis. Do you think that's a good idea, or do you prefer to see the original "colored" version of the chassis?

[Maaboo the Witch]

1 hour ago, Jim said:

I am currently working on my review and I am thinking about swapping out some of the orange, blue, green and red parts with black or grey, to match the chassis. Do you think that's a good idea, or do you prefer to see the original "colored" version of the chassis?

Stick with original, I'd say.

[Ngoc Nguyen]

1 hour ago, Jim said:

I am currently working on my review and I am thinking about swapping out some of the orange, blue, green and red parts with black or grey, to match the chassis. Do you think that's a good idea, or do you prefer to see the original "colored" version of the chassis?

Stay authentic, stay organic.

[Jim]

Thanks. I will do that.

[allanp]

4 hours ago, Jim said:

I am currently working on my review and I am thinking about swapping out some of the orange, blue, green and red parts with black or grey, to match the chassis. Do you think that's a good idea, or do you prefer to see the original "colored" version of the chassis?

Of course I'd prefer less colour coding but as it's a review of a set provided by Lego probably best to show it as it was intended by them. Having said that I think it's worth noting the different gearing options for this particular set.

[Jim]

19 minutes ago, allanp said:

Of course I'd prefer less colour coding but as it's a review of a set provided by Lego probably best to show it as it was intended by them. Having said that I think it's worth noting the different gearing options for this particular set.

 

On 10/22/2019 at 3:30 PM, Andman said:

I build mine yesterday. During the build I took care that all gears are running with minimised friction. But still I can hear a rattling sounds from somewhere around the diff. Haven't located where it comes from exactly. Did you guys made the same experience?

I was just playing around with the gears, because I have exactly the same problem with the rear diff.