nicjasno Posted October 15, 2019 Posted October 15, 2019 This U joint setup has no business being there in the first place. Quote
Cumulonimbus Posted October 15, 2019 Posted October 15, 2019 @nicjasno I agree, U-joints are great for giving a driveshaft a degree of freedom to follow the movement of a structure like in a car suspension or even to follow a permanent inconvenient angle like in an excavator arm. But using a pair to solve an alignment issue in a drive train is poor design and prone to errors as shown again here. Quote
Valkyx Posted October 15, 2019 Posted October 15, 2019 Got mine today, bag 1 done. I've checked 2 times if i have aligned everything properly :) i doubt i will be able to finish whole build today. Quote
nicjasno Posted October 15, 2019 Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) The problem is, that the gearbox has no business being where it is and needs to be behind the engine. The reduction gear needs to be behind the gearbox. And the steering rack has no business being behind the front axle, where it is in the way of the gearbox. Edited October 15, 2019 by nicjasno Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) Frist render of the Landy with panels. Wheels will follow shortly Many thanks to @Philo Edited October 16, 2019 by JunkstyleGio Quote
Vectormatic Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 @nicjasno Ill agree with you that the layout of the lego set is wrong, but i also think expecting that level of accuracy is just plain wrong on a lego set. Lego gearboxes are much bigger then their real life counterpart, and yet we expect large amounts of gears and intricate shifting mechanisms. If Lego were to stick to the size of the real thing, we would get a 2-speed gearbox with the shift handle directly on top (courtesy of the blue clutch gear), and MAYBE a center diff, and then you've used up all the space there is. The alternative would be putting a more complex gearbox further forward, and we would end up with no interior, because there is no space for it. The two 1:8 scale cars get closer, the porsche has its gearbox sort of in the right place, but it still is waaaaaaaaaaaay too large to be anywhere near scale, and that is with only 4 speeds. Im not sure on the Chiron's layout, but i would suspect the gearbox to be placed further back in the real thing, as pretty much all mid-engine cars have the gearbox sitting behind the engine, merged with the diff on the rear axle, not below the engine. (putting a gearbox below the W16 would probably put the engine up too high as well) Quote
Valkyx Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 Spare parts after Bags 1 and 2. Please dont tell me ive missed something: I have connected wheels and it seems that the gearbox is working, there is no cracking, but sometimes the engine starts to "work" after riding for 50 CM already. Quote
Bartybum Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 @nicjasno How’s your mod coming along? Quote
kbalage Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 @Valkyx the 3L black bush/pin, the dbg cross block and the black axle joiner is 99% not a spare. Quote
Valkyx Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 Just now, kbalage said: @Valkyx the 3L black bush/pin, the dbg cross block and the black axle joiner is 99% not a spare. I have checked all insides of model and i cannot find anyspot that those could fit. Maybe they will be used later on ? Quote
kbalage Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 2 minutes ago, Valkyx said: I have checked all insides of model and i cannot find anyspot that those could fit. Maybe they will be used later on ? Don't think so. Go through all steps looking for the exact parts, maybe one at a time. Quote
Valkyx Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) 17 minutes ago, kbalage said: Don't think so. Go through all steps looking for the exact parts, maybe one at a time. Doing that right now, going backwards from what i have done to see if there are parts what i have left used in step and im checking if it "exits" in my built model. Edit. Step 306. I have missed the one on the top. Do you think any more parts should i check? Edit: Found error at step 352: Now i have just that 2 pin black one left. Thx :) Im glad that those parts are an outside ones, not inside the gearbox... I guess assembling lego at 1 am is bad idea xD Edited October 16, 2019 by Valkyx Quote
nicjasno Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, Bartybum said: @nicjasno How’s your mod coming along? The 4 speed gearbox is 50% finished. It'll be awesome. I had no time yet to assemble the lego version, from which i'll then take all measurements. Thing is, that building the drivetrain layout accurately would actually make things a lot simpler and more compact (as i intend to prove). The designer of the lego version just built himself into a corner following the old lego model formula. Edited October 16, 2019 by nicjasno Quote
Anio Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 5 hours ago, Valkyx said: Step 306. I have missed the one on the top. So did I ! :D Quote
Meatman Posted October 16, 2019 Posted October 16, 2019 29 minutes ago, nicjasno said: The 4 speed gearbox is 50% finished. It'll be awesome. I had no time yet to assemble the lego version, from which i'll then take all measurements. Thing is, that building the drivetrain layout accurately would actually make things a lot simpler and more compact (as i intend to prove). The designer of the lego version just built himself into a corner following the old lego model formula. I am very interested in seeing your solution. Quote
BrickWild Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 Finished the chassis as of today. But something's not right. When the model is pushed, there's only a slight clicking sound in the gears and the pistons don't move when in gear. Quote
Maaboo the Witch Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 2 hours ago, BrickWild said: Finished the chassis as of today. But something's not right. When the model is pushed, there's only a slight clicking sound in the gears and the pistons don't move when in gear. Did you line up the CV joints? Quote
Arioh Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 Also make sure that u-joints didnt grind against 24z gears nearby. I had such issue, thankfully its easy to correct. (Note to myself, do not build such complex models when drunk) Quote
ptitmannu Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) Merci à Arioh pour l'indice .... Salut Alors, pour ceux qui seraient dans la même galère que moi, voici ma technique qui semble efficace. Comme l'indique Arioh, dans la réponse précédente, c'est le cardan qui se trouve collé au différentiel rouge qui a tendance à se décaler et ainsi craquer. 7 of a text of a text of 5.5 to a text and 5.5 and a common artic of a red red. substituant les axes de 4 et de 8 par un simple axe de 12, afin de pouvoir décaler et ainsi moins se gaver à fixer le deuxième cardan. Au dernier test, ça ne fait pas plus. Edited October 18, 2019 by ptitmannu Quote
Gray Gear Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 10 minutes ago, ptitmannu said: Merci à Arioh pour l'indice .... Salut Alors, pour ceux qui seraient dans la même galère que moi, voici ma technique qui semble efficace. Comme l'indique Arioh, dans la réponse précédente, c'est le cardan qui se trouve collé au différentiel rouge qui a tendance à se décaler et ainsi craquer. 7 of a text of a text of 5.5 to a text and 5.5 and a common artic of a red red. substituant les axes de 4 et de 8 par un simple axe de 12, afin de pouvoir décaler et ainsi moins se gaver à fixer le deuxième cardan. Au dernier test, ça ne fait pas plus. Sorry I dont speak baguette. This is a english speaking forum. Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 A quick translation (by DeepL.com) Hi, So for those who would be in the same boat as me (abusive cracks when testing with the wheels), here is my technique that seems effective. As Arioh indicated, in the previous answer, it is the cardan shaft that is stuck to the red differential that tends to shift and crack. So I modified the length of the axis of 7 by an axis of 7.5 using a 5.5 plus a joint and then a red axis of 2. I also had to modify the axis which is after the second cardan by replacing the axes of 4 and 8 by a simple axis of 12, in order to be able to shift it and thus less stuff itself to fix the second cardan. At the last test, it didn't crack anymore (or a little bit in the engine but I will change it later because the engines in line... bof) Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator Quote
MikeTwo9398 Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) 11 hours ago, BrickWild said: Finished the chassis as of today. But something's not right. When the model is pushed, there's only a slight clicking sound in the gears and the pistons don't move when in gear. I have the same clicking/cracking sound only in the gear setting when the pisitons move at it's fasts. I noticed that the gears shown in the video from RacingBrick at 4:00 are slipping/jumping over each other. And there is no gap ..... Everything else mentioned here is OK. Edited October 18, 2019 by MikeTwo9398 Quote
Valkyx Posted October 18, 2019 Posted October 18, 2019 I have finished build. But sadly i was missing 1 pice :( (2nd time this happen with all my lego sets, previous was 1 missing pice in 42082), it was just a standard grey stick. Ive took it out of some small set the cherry picker, but still bad luck for me. Ps. i have double checked all the lego bags if maybe i have missed one pice in there. Quote
WvG_853 Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 7 hours ago, Valkyx said: I have finished build. But sadly i was missing 1 pice :( (2nd time this happen with all my lego sets, previous was 1 missing pice in 42082), it was just a standard grey stick. ... It happens sometimes. Report this to Lego and they will send you the missing piece. More info here https://www.lego.com/en-SG/service/help-topics/bricks-and-sets/replacement-parts/missing-pieces Quote
Valkyx Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 Ordered the missing one and this one also: My luck is bad... When its together with the rest of roof it is almost straight. Quote
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