Polarlicht Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Valkyx said: Ordered the missing one and this one also: My luck is bad... When its together with the rest of roof it is almost straight. Wow, if this is from the factory and not bend by yourself, sell it on ebay :D Quote
nicjasno Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 Finally managed to build mine: I'll make a video review next week. Quote
Valkyx Posted October 19, 2019 Posted October 19, 2019 4 hours ago, Coolusername said: Wow, if this is from the factory and not bend by yourself, sell it on ebay :D when i have joined all of the roof bricks together it got a bit straight but well still bends out. Quote
Jim Posted October 20, 2019 Posted October 20, 2019 I just posted my (mostly pictorial) review of this wonderful set. Quote
bd5400 Posted October 22, 2019 Posted October 22, 2019 (edited) I just completed my build of this set and I'm having a suspension issue that I can't wrap my head around. The suspension is way too soft and the rear of the car sits all the way down with the body resting on the wheels. I've gone over the instructions again, looked at comparison pictures, and I cannot figure out what could be wrong. Is it possible my suspension pieces are defective? I looked around online and I came across a single comment where someone had the same issue but no further information. Any ideas of what could be going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Edit: To clarify, everything feels like it is working, it's just that the suspension is too soft. The rear wheels feel springy and if you are holding it in the air and pushing the wheels up and down you wouldn't know something was wrong. It's only when you place it down does the weight of the vehicle make the entire rear sink. Also, please excuse my terrible job at sticker placement! Pics: Edited October 22, 2019 by bd5400 Quote
Jeroen Ottens Posted October 22, 2019 Posted October 22, 2019 Shouldn’t the lower attachmentpoint be one stud more outward? Quote
bd5400 Posted October 22, 2019 Posted October 22, 2019 10 minutes ago, Jeroen Ottens said: Shouldn’t the lower attachmentpoint be one stud more outward? Yes. Yes it should. I've been staring at this thing for what feels like hours and I completely missed that detail. I made the same mistake on both sides. Thank you!!! Quote
Bartybum Posted October 22, 2019 Posted October 22, 2019 @bd5400 You've also made a mistake at the hood. All the beams/contours should run parallel until the front Quote
bd5400 Posted October 23, 2019 Posted October 23, 2019 On 10/22/2019 at 12:51 AM, Bartybum said: @bd5400 You've also made a mistake at the hood. All the beams/contours should run parallel until the front Thanks but I think the hood is fine (unless I'm not understanding what you're referring to). It looks like I pushed in the front area while I was handling it/holding it upside down while trying to figure out the suspension issue. That caused the outer-most beam to angle up a bit, making everything appear out of alignment. I haven't changed anything, but it looks fine now, so I must have pushed it back after taking the picture. Quote
paul_delahaye Posted October 23, 2019 Posted October 23, 2019 Here is me thinking you'd modded it with air suspension on the rear. On real Range Rovers/Discovery's you sometimes see them leaking when parked and they look like that. Quote
SNIPE Posted October 23, 2019 Posted October 23, 2019 The green parts have such a diversity of shades depending on the lighting. like from apple green to almost light brown. Quote
valenciaeric Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 So it is possible to add a locking diff and it was part of the original design as per this video. Quote
Shiva Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 valenciaeric, I am trying to find and keep reasons NOT to get 42110. "Economy being 1" That video does not help. 42110 + 42099 is out of the question for me. Would a power functions version with the older technic system be possible? Quote
Vectormatic Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 7 minutes ago, Shiva said: 42110 + 42099 is out of the question for me. Would a power functions version with the older technic system be possible? Why wouldnt it? Lego is so flexible, you could probably motorize this set with a 30 year old 9v motor, sure you would end up with control via cable, and performance would probably suck, but it would all fit. Quote
valenciaeric Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 2 hours ago, Shiva said: valenciaeric, I am trying to find and keep reasons NOT to get 42110. "Economy being 1" That video does not help. 42110 + 42099 is out of the question for me. Would a power functions version with the older technic system be possible? Wait a few weeks and it will be sub 120 euros. 4x4 RC parts will be stronger but I guess you could use the existing driveshafts and PF motors. Quote
Shiva Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 sub 120 euros, not that sure, but, who knows. I'll have to try to remember to check prices. I did check comparisons between the Control+ and PF and they seem quite similar in power. + I could maybe someday spend cash on a Buwizz or SBrick? maybe? Or use the old PF's instead. Or wait for Control+ to have better support for mogs. PF + wait for Control+ I think. Quote
valenciaeric Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 30% off RRP is 125 euros and we will get that before Xmas for sure just like with all the summer wave of Technic sets. Maybe even 110 euros if lucky. Quote
Shiva Posted October 28, 2019 Posted October 28, 2019 I'll hope for something similar here in Sweden :) or thru the closest amazon's. I did find a shop that has 42099 "1972SEK" for almost the same price as 42100 "1724SEK". Quote
valenciaeric Posted October 29, 2019 Posted October 29, 2019 16 hours ago, Shiva said: I'll hope for something similar here in Sweden :) or thru the closest amazon's. I did find a shop that has 42099 "1972SEK" for almost the same price as 42100 "1724SEK". I´ve seen it for 126 or so in Germany and I got mine for less than 110. It´s just a question of time till pre or post Christmas blow out sales and I would see it sub 100 euros. Quote
mobi Posted October 29, 2019 Posted October 29, 2019 (edited) I have built the chassis so far [step 302] and bit disappointed. The gear shifting is not smooth at all. Gear 1-2 works OK-ish but gear 3-4 quite bad, especially at Hi gear mode. Some cogs are cracking. There is one YouTube video which discusses this. The root cause seems to be too many cogs and UV joins transfering motion in non-linear fashion. Even after following the suggestions in above video it is still not smooth and engine pistons are jerking. Feels like TLG did not even properly test the model before releasing to market. Edited October 29, 2019 by mobi Quote
Shiva Posted October 29, 2019 Posted October 29, 2019 valenciaeric, cheers :) will try to keep checking the prices. Quote
mobi Posted October 29, 2019 Posted October 29, 2019 It was mind bogglingly complex to figure out how the transmission works. I followed the steps mechanically while building. But now after observing the chassis, I think I have figured it out. Engine revolution is transferred via passenger side red shaft to 4-speed gearbox at the back of the chassis. After speed reduction, it transfers [from rear] via passenger side grey shaft to front and then goes to DNR/Hi-Lo clutches. From there it transfers to center differential and then to front and rear differentials and finally to wheels. So the path is: engine -> [red shaft] -> rear gearbox -> [grey shaft] -> middle gearbox -> differentials -> wheels Have I got it correct? Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted October 29, 2019 Posted October 29, 2019 In Lego sets the wheels set the Fake engine in motion.... Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted November 16, 2019 Posted November 16, 2019 The drive train runs either like this Wheels -> Drive mode -> Hi/Lo switch -> 4-speed gearbox -> Engine or like this Wheels -> Rear mode -> Engine This setup feels really weird. In the drive mode, it should have been Wheels -> 4-speed gearbox -> Hi/Lo switch -> Drive mode -> Engine instead. Besides, during Rear mode, the wheels still drive the Hi/Lo switch through the 4-speed gearbox, which generates a lot of extra friction. I'd prefer the drivetrain of the Bugatti. It's in the correct order: Wheels -> 8-speed gearbox -> Drive mode -> Engine. Quote
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