42110 - Land Rover Defender

[cmdAnton]

22 minutes ago, Nebulaire said:

Do you know that the tires you ordered fit on the defender rims ?

Damn, didn't know that... 

 

13 minutes ago, grohl said:

They are in the making  and will be posted as soon as they are done. The video is quite easy to follow though

 

But in that video you didn't use power functions but the new system, right?

[grohl]

Yes, but with a bit of rebuild you can use what is in the video.

[Fergie147]

Need some help on the rear diff transfer to the clutch and gearing. Obviously turning the offside rear hub clockwise turns the near side anti clockwise etc. However when simulating the hubs both going in the same direction the diff should transfer the power to the rest of the gearbox. Mine does not want to do this easily. I can feel it tightening up. 
I think it’s a gear jamming for the assembly of the two sections around instructions 62-64. But I cannot see where. Any clues as to what it could be. 

[Gzynek2323]

@grohl I just finished building a Defender. One of the best Technic sets in my collection.  Great Job

[TechnicRCRacer]

Also just finished building my copy and I love it! I’m probably the only person who likes the olive green color 

[Gzynek2323]

Me too, I would not mind seeing in on the Lambo:)

[nerdsforprez]

3 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

Also just finished building my copy and I love it! I’m probably the only person who likes the olive green color 

Nope!! I love it as well. Wouldnt mind seeing it on the lambo also.  Though, after buying both 42056 and 83 i am promising myself not to get the lambo....

[NotANumber]

Nice model. I did experience the gear-clacking issue, and debugging it lead me to the following causes:

The first was 12- and 20-tooth gears at the engine-side shaft of the gearbox weren't meshing smoothly. With the engine disconnected it moved jerkily when the wheels were turned. From what I can make out, the appears to be down to a small change in the design of the teeth on the 20-tooth gear: I swapped it for an older one which has slightly more-tapered teeth -- the lower one in the picture underneath -- and things ran smoothly. (I also swapped out the one just before the engine, tucked behind the roof steering shaft.)

Second was the engine itself. I'm not a fan of this new 2-arm-and-axle design (like in the Mack Anthem); the old 2x2 cylinders are smoother and more charming. Anyhoo, here I made the mistake of leaving a gap between the bulkhead and the red bush on the crankshaft. This meant the 2-arm 'cranks' were fouling on sideways the red bush con-rods.

[Amt0571]

I've just finished building the car. Knowing beforehand of the transmission issues, I made sure to build it really carefully, with gears moving freely, and aligned the universal joints correctly. Before doing the bodywork, I attached the wheels and checked that all gears worked. 4th Hi was not smooth and it had a lot of drag, but worked without cracks, so I kept building since I didn't manage to improve it.

Surprisingly, after finishing the model, 4th Hi (the lowest gear) cracks when moving the car forward, but not when moving it backwards. All other gears work perfectly. It seems like the body places some stress on the transmission that wasn't there beforehand. In that gear the transmission seems to work like a spring, storing energy that it ends up suddenly releasing either as a spin of the fake engine, or as cracking gears.

I've checked everything and I have been unable to see which gear is cracking, though it seems it comes from the front part of the transmission.

 

Any idea to fix it?

EDIT: since it works perfectly and even quite snooth when running backwards, I'm going to try mounting the differentials reversed, so the whole drivetrain runs reversed.

 

EDIT2: I've reversed the diffs. While doing it I found one of the small blue pieces underneath the car, behind the front axle was a bit loose and tightened it. After reassembly it works on all gears. Surprisingly, it doesn't crack if I move it backwards (the previous forward) on 4 Hi. In any case, I think mounting the diffs reversed is worth it as the transmission is A LOT smoother and has way less drag when running reversed. Moreover, its really easy to do with almost no disassembly involved.

Edited February 27, 2020 by Amt0571

[thekoRngear]

On 2/26/2020 at 6:13 AM, Amt0571 said:

I've just finished building the car. Knowing beforehand of the transmission issues, I made sure to build it really carefully, with gears moving freely, and aligned the universal joints correctly. Before doing the bodywork, I attached the wheels and checked that all gears worked. 4th Hi was not smooth and it had a lot of drag, but worked without cracks, so I kept building since I didn't manage to improve it.

Surprisingly, after finishing the model, 4th Hi (the lowest gear) cracks when moving the car forward, but not when moving it backwards. All other gears work perfectly. It seems like the body places some stress on the transmission that wasn't there beforehand. In that gear the transmission seems to work like a spring, storing energy that it ends up suddenly releasing either as a spin of the fake engine, or as cracking gears.

I've checked everything and I have been unable to see which gear is cracking, though it seems it comes from the front part of the transmission.

 

Any idea to fix it?

EDIT: since it works perfectly and even quite snooth when running backwards, I'm going to try mounting the differentials reversed, so the whole drivetrain runs reversed.

 

EDIT2: I've reversed the diffs. While doing it I found one of the small blue pieces underneath the car, behind the front axle was a bit loose and tightened it. After reassembly it works on all gears. Surprisingly, it doesn't crack if I move it backwards (the previous forward) on 4 Hi. In any case, I think mounting the diffs reversed is worth it as the transmission is A LOT smoother and has way less drag when running reversed. Moreover, its really easy to do with almost no disassembly involved.

Hi, although this is my first post here I actually have been lurking around this forum for around 6 years. I also bought a Lego Technic Defender with which I have been facing gear-cracking problem. Mind if you show me the bottom of your vehicle so that I can make the diffs reversed?

Update: I have done the diffs reversing myself. And oh boy, what a progress! Now I can move my Land Rover forward without a single cracking. However, I am not as lucky as you are as the vehicle still cracks in the 4th when moved backwards (previous forwards). This fix is definitely a life saver. Also, it required minimal disassembling. The only thing is we have to move the vehicle backwards less (or pretend it never happens in the (now) backwards).

Edited March 1, 2020 by thekoRngear

[Amt0571]

On 2/29/2020 at 12:20 PM, thekoRngear said:

Hi, although this is my first post here I actually have been lurking around this forum for around 6 years. I also bought a Lego Technic Defender with which I have been facing gear-cracking problem. Mind if you show me the bottom of your vehicle so that I can make the diffs reversed?

Update: I have done the diffs reversing myself. And oh boy, what a progress! Now I can move my Land Rover forward without a single cracking. However, I am not as lucky as you are as the vehicle still cracks in the 4th when moved backwards (previous forwards). This fix is definitely a life saver. Also, it required minimal disassembling. The only thing is we have to move the vehicle backwards less (or pretend it never happens in the (now) backwards).

After reversing the diffs, I left the Defender on a shelf for a day and tried it again in 4th Hi to see if it still worked and... surprise: it worked well while moving forwards (and still did it remarkably smooth, considering the amount of gears involved), but cracked again when moving backwards.

So well... at least I can move it forwards in D in all gears, and backwards in R without cracking. Realistic enough :p

I still want to find out what gear is cracking when moving backwards and try to fix it. Unfortunately, I have very little spare time to do it, so I think I'll be unable to do it in less than a couple of months. If you make any progress, keep us informed :D

[kahaya]

I have implemented all the changes from V1.3 and it works absolutely perfectly. Had implemented the V1.2 changes and still had clicking. Now have no clicking sounds at all and all works well. Thanks.

[Akbalder]

When I'm on HI selector with max speed, there is a lot of friction when pushing the car and the engine doesn't move. The car even goes in reverse when I release it. 

Is it a known issue or did I mess something while building it?

[thekoRngear]

4 hours ago, Akbalder said:

When I'm on HI selector with max speed, there is a lot of friction when pushing the car and the engine doesn't move. The car even goes in reverse when I release it. 

Is it a known issue or did I mess something while building it?

It is a known issue

[4x4mods]

Has anyone done any rear bumper or lift kit modifications on 42110?

Oh, and would 23798 tires fit on the defender with a small lift?

[4x4mods]

or 92912 tires

 

[4x4mods]

 

Saw this suspension idea today, thought it looked cool.is there anyway that something like this would work on the defender? I'm talking about just the purple part. This would improve suspension travel by a lot. If you want to see how it works go here.

 

Spoiler

 

 

[Bartybum]

Has anyone experienced the gearbox tightening up over time? I've had it sitting on a closed off shelf for a few months now, and the gearbox has somehow tightened itself to the point that it'll only run without clicking in 1st LO.

I've only ever had the same experience with two sets before - 42009 and 42043. In 42009, the outrigger gearbox began to sieze up over time, and in 42043 the crane began to lose its slewing capability.

I'm hardly surprised these phenomena pass through unnoticed in the design phase, since they take months to onset.

[thekoRngear]

5 hours ago, Bartybum said:

Has anyone experienced the gearbox tightening up over time? I've had it sitting on a closed off shelf for a few months now, and the gearbox has somehow tightened itself to the point that it'll only run without clicking in 1st LO.

I've only ever had the same experience with two sets before - 42009 and 42043. In 42009, the outrigger gearbox began to sieze up over time, and in 42043 the crane began to lose its slewing capability.

I'm hardly surprised these phenomena pass through unnoticed in the design phase, since they take months to onset.

Yes. I did, twice. I mentioned it in another thread. My gearbox worked fine upto D/HI/LO 3rd gears. Two weeks of playing with it’d gone nuts. Cracks even in the 1st/2nd gears. After my final build I have decided to keep it as a display model which has been almost a month now. Now I am worried after looking at your post. Previously I had thought it was a unique phenomena occuring to me.

Edited April 10, 2020 by thekoRngear

[Leanderv]

On 1/6/2020 at 2:24 PM, cmdAnton said:

Hey guys,

i just ordered Part 15038 (Tire 94.3x38R) and 44772 (56mm D. x 34mm Technic Racing Medium, 6 Pin Holes) to modify my Defender. I hope it will fit, i tried it in Studio and everything worked, i'll post some photos, once the parts arrive.

just one question regarding a motorized version of the defender: Is there a pdf-instruction for a build with Power Functions?

cheers,

anton

Both part numbers are rims, i guess you mean tires 92912.

Did those tires fit or did you need to do modifications?

[4x4mods]

you would definitely need modifications otherwise there would be too much wheel scrub when turning.

 

[4x4mods]

i stretched 45932 tires over 15038 rims and they stay on really nicely.

[4x4mods]

Has anyone done a lift on their land rover?

 

[A K]

Guys I need help please!  This is the second time I have become stuck at this one point.   Instruction number 271 (images attached).  The black wheel simply does not set cleanly in line to push the black rod through it.  It sits just a little higher than the grey wheel under it and despite using all the force it is not cleanly fitting.  I never have to force fit any step in lego but can't for the life of me understand what is wrong. I even rebuilt the entire Instruction set 1 ALL OVER AGAIN.  

Any tips anyone please?  What could be wrong.  

[agrof]

Hello @A K, welcome here!

You are right, there should not be such forced building step at all. Checking the instruction, I can not correctly understand your problem - I assume all the gears are meshing nicely. Can You please post a picture or a short video to visualize your issue better?

EDIT: does the chassis laying perfectly linear? As far I understand in step 271 it still might have a bit of bending like shown in step 267.

Edited May 7, 2020 by agrof