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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted (edited)

Here are the issues I found during build of my 42100 set:

1. Damaged motor - I had a simillar injury on one of the C+ hubs in the 42099:

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2. Actuator's input shaft color is Dark red instead of Orange. Also one actuator seems to have corrosion, while the other has a very rough surface finish:

1280x1707.jpg

1280x960.jpg

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3. Instructions have a few issues too. The 2L axle here can interfere with the 12 tooth gears if not inserted fully. I'd use a normal cross-pin here:

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4. This assembly is almost impossible to take apart without damaging bricks:

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5. You can't test the model in third phase. App won't connect to the hubs, because all motors are not yet wired to the hub.

I'm thinking contacting lego costumer service regarding actuators, they seem to be a poorer quality than normal ones and they also feel like they are totally unlubricated.

What is your opinion on the issues above?

 

Edited by Zerobricks
Posted

1. Lego should replace that. 
2. Lego should replace that as well. 
3. That's pretty sloppy design by lego. I agree. The cross pin would actually add to the structural integrity. 
4. That's not true. You can twist the pin hole pin and push the axle out with another axle from the other side. 
5. Shitty design by lego. They should have fixed the issue and tested it. 

Posted
Just now, Mechbuilds said:


4. That's not true. You can twist the pin hole pin and push the axle out with another axle from the other side.

I did that, but the pinhole connector's edge got damaged because the pully wheels hold the 4L axle so hard in place.

Posted
Just now, Zerobricks said:

I did that, but the pinhole connector's edge got damaged because the pully wheels hold the 4L axle so hard in place.

Hmm.. Well you could put a flathead screwdriver or something similar between the axle and the pin and just wiggle it loose enough. 

Posted
Just now, Mechbuilds said:

Hmm.. Well you could put a flathead screwdriver or something similar between the axle and the pin and just wiggle it loose enough. 

The requirement for a tool (other than a brick separator) indicates a very bad design, in my books.

Posted

Issue 4: I think it might be a bug in the model, which from the instructions was generated.

As I see, there is no use of that pinhole in further assembly, so I guess it should have been rotated by 90°, like in step 250-251. If so, You can easily push the axle with another one out.

Posted
21 minutes ago, Mechbuilds said:

I did that, but the pinhole connector's edge got damaged because the pully wheels hold the 4L axle so hard in place.

That's true, it would be a challenge to pull this axle anyways, as double-pulley, like double-halfbush provides even more friction than a single-bushed part. It's even an official technique to secure an axle.

Posted

2 : Who told you LA input were supposed to be orange ? They are dark red.

4 : Use your nail (or the edge of any Lego part) and push the axle out.

Posted

2: the LAs in my copy of 42081 had the same rough finish as yours, and one feels a little janky. The dark red input is understandable, as that is the axlehole colour for CONTROL+.

1: The damage to the motor is unbelievable though, especially in a premium product such as this. The fact that this has also happened with 42099 is indicative of a serious quality issue with the CONTROL+ components. :thumbdown:

Posted
2 hours ago, Anio said:

2 : Who told you LA input were supposed to be orange ? They are dark red.

4 : Use your nail (or the edge of any Lego part) and push the axle out.

1. Instruction booklet

2. Pully wheels hold the axle way too strong, stronger than usual.

Posted
35 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

1. Instruction booklet

2. Pully wheels hold the axle way too strong, stronger than usual.

Unless the pully wheels got a new tolerance modification or the axle is thicker nowadays but..
I built the same exact thing out of my 42055 parts and had no issue taking the axle out with my fingernails. Sure it's tight but manageable with a little bit of force.. But not fingernail breaking force. 

Posted
40 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

1. Instruction booklet

Fair enough.
Then it is just the instruction that is not correct on this tiny detail. Not a big deal, if you ask me.

Posted
Just now, Maaboo35 said:

Say again? *huh*

 

I thought we were practicing mutual unintelligibility.

Anyway, back on topic, specifically point number 3: I've noticed TLG doesn't like making users click more than 2 pins together when joining modules, unless strictly necessary. I guess a lot of users can't handle the friction (which is what she said).

Posted
Just now, Anio said:

Fair enough.
Then it is just the instruction that is not correct on this tiny detail. Not a big deal, if you ask me.

To me, it's really not even an issue. Nobody cares what color it is. It's hidden anyways. As long as it works, and it's hidden then the color is irrelevant if it were bright pink. 
What issue i have is the fact that the metal part was corroded.. Do they have quality control at all? It should not even be a thing. 

What happened to TLG's motto of "only the best is good enough"?

Posted (edited)

But we Brits live by the Python :laugh:

I wonder how many users found actuators with metal rot. These things go for 10 euros a piece on B&P - still not enough to pay for decent QA?

Edited by suffocation
Posted
Just now, suffocation said:

But we Brits live by the Python :laugh:

I wonder how many users found actuators with metal rot. These things go for 10 euros a piece on B&P - still not enough to pay for decent QA?

It's an absolute disgrace. Money clearly isn't enough any more - do we need to pay in blood for quality? :hmpf_bad:

Posted
5 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

App won't connect to the hubs, because all motors are not yet wired to the hub.

And in PF era you could just connect it to the battery box and check if it works :))

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