42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements

[twoofive]

No, not much modification needed. The gearing towards the steering wheel is deleted, possible to modify it , but for now its temporally gone. 

For the rest it almost just slides in:-) 

I will make a rework for the inner steering wheel, maybe tomorrow.

[twoofive]

This is how it looks now, as you see there is surely an option for the steering wheel. This was the easy way?

[twoofive]

 

 

Hey all! I made 2 small mods today, lockable doors and a bar to keep the bonnet open:-)

Edited October 16, 2019 by twoofive

[Arioh]

Will you share instructions for your upgrades?

[BrickWild]

How to add PF lights to the headlights using a few extra pieces!

[romashkaman]

Hello all.

Just started rebuilding this set. I wanted this set to be rebuilt inside and to save exterior (like many others here).

The actual progress is:

- completed front part of the frame (it's stiff enough even without any other part of the body attached):

- McPherson suspension and front differential module mounts on that frame and is easily detachable (also McPherson struts include new cv-joints from 42099):

- front suspension is built with caster and KPI angles:

- engine is built from 4 PF XL-motors coupled together (output gear ratio is 20:36), also it's equipped with one-way clutch (it's built years ago by @nicjasno):

- given that drive shaft of the engine has half-stud offset in vertical direction, here is an "offset remover":

All modules assembled look like this:

You can find more photos on Flickr.

And, of course, a video of the short test:

This module has some little issues (at first, I need to improve stiffness of the suspension's struts - under load they bend a little bit inward, but it doesn't affect all the process of a drive), but it has a really stiff frame and it's a good start point.

[Nazgarot]

This seems like a good rebuild. But I can't understand why you would use 4 XL motors with their low RMP when you have a Buggty motor available... Even 4 L motors would be better.

-ED-

[romashkaman]

3 minutes ago, Nazgarot said:

This seems like a good rebuild. But I can't understand why you would use 4 XL motors with their low RMP when you have a Buggty motor available... Even 4 L motors would be better.

-ED-

XL-s have the biggest torque among all Lego motors (according to the @Philo's page). Buggy-motor has higher rpms, but lower torque (and it's much more expensive and bigger than XL). It's not good choice for heavy vehicles. L-motors are more compact, but, again, if you compare torque/rpm ratio among all of the motors - XLs are the best imho. I tested this setup (4 XLs) two years ago at local fest:

This model hadn't any gearbox and was pretty heavy. But, as you can see, the car accelerated easily, than acceleration stopped and speed was constant - only because of low max RPMs of the XLs. Theese motors have very good potential even without gearbox. L-motors are too weak for such acceleration of heavy models. Considering I plan to add a gearbox to this rebuilt Defender - it has to be fast and powerfull))

[Nazgarot]

The way I see it 4 XL pull to much power and has to be geared up in order to get a decent speed. 4x L would be more efficient as you could gear them down and still have a decent speed. But thats just my opinion, and you may very well prove me wrong. :)

Looking forward to the result. Are you making a WIP thread to let us follow your build more closely without cluttering this mod thread?

-ED-

[romashkaman]

38 minutes ago, Nazgarot said:

Looking forward to the result. Are you making a WIP thread to let us follow your build more closely without cluttering this mod thread?

Mmm, I don't know am I allowed to make separate WIP thread? One "42110 MODs" thread already exists, I didn't finish the model to show it in completed version, so... I don't know, what am I supposed to do)

[Nazgarot]

2 hours ago, romashkaman said:

Mmm, I don't know am I allowed to make separate WIP thread? One "42110 MODs" thread already exists, I didn't finish the model to show it in completed version, so... I don't know, what am I supposed to do)

Just start a new thread and name it something like; "WIP: Romashkaman 42110 Rebuild"

That way you can collect everything about your rebuild in one place. Just ask if you need any more help.

-ED-

[romashkaman]

Just separated into this topic.

[skdubg]

Hello Community,

i'm new to the Eurobricks forum. Since 2018 I'm interested in Lego again and after some Architecture Sets I bought the Land Rover 42110.

some mods i have already implemented:

- the rubber at the tailgate - by Coolusername
- the workaround for the front lights - by JunkstyleGio

but the car isn't remote controlled. 
my son would see the car driving by remote control.

i made some other small changes:

- changed the lose door frames
- the tailgate has a symmetrical colour design
- modified door hinge
- removed all blue-pins on front, back and left/right side
- three shock absorber on each side on the rear axle (due to weight of battery and infrared receiver)

installation of the steering system:
very simple! 
under the driver's seat is enough space for an l-engine, I tried a servo-engine first, but it's too weak, because the vehicle's weight prevents steering to full impact.
unfortunately the m-engine doesn't offer me a reasonable way to fix it.

the l-engine is connected to the hand-of-god axle. the rest of the manual steering to the roof has been removed.

next step: install a l-engine under the passenger seat to test the connection directly to the red differential.

 

i can upload some pictures tonight, if you want it.

 

greetings
skdubg

Edited October 23, 2019 by skdubg

[romashkaman]

2 hours ago, skdubg said:

 

i can upload some pictures tonight, if you want it.

It would be interesting to watch a video. Only one l-motor for such vehicle? I doubt it'll be enough.

Edited October 23, 2019 by romashkaman

[skdubg]

 

29 minutes ago, romashkaman said:

Only one l-motor for such vehicle? I doubt it'll be enough.

you might be right. let's see how it moves when the engine is installed

[HorcikDesigns]

Maybe am I just too slow in exploring my Defender, and I have to owe myself that I am not an attentive reader of this thread, but did somebody noticed yet, that the original axles on the 42110 are prepared for installation of 42099 CV joints instead of that old U-joints? Might it be some relict from the development stage? Or just minor preparation for motorization that is @grohl making right now only with parts from 42099 set?  

[leonema]

maybe someone has tried the tires 54120?!

just curiosity if they fit or make friction to the mudguard at maximum suspension travel and/or when steering front tires...

thanks :)

[Bricktrain]

with control plus

[romashkaman]

@Bricktrain could you make the video of the test of your configuration?) I guess the performance should be quite the same as 42099's, correct me if I'm wrong (in case there is no additional gear reduction or whatever else)

[unun186]

On 10/29/2019 at 3:40 PM, Bricktrain said:

with control plus

One of it changed to steering wheel on the right? 

 

[Bricktrain]

On 10/30/2019 at 10:42 PM, unun186 said:

One of it changed to steering wheel on the right? 

 

Correct, NZ is RHD so changed it over. I had made the mistake of mirroring the engine also but have changed it back.

Edited November 1, 2019 by Bricktrain

[mzzl88]

Is it possible to make a video once you're done...? I'm really looking forward to make this set RC....

[twoofive]

 

Did some work on the defender:-) first, replaced the v6 with a v8, without modifications to the frame.

Then got rid of the annoying and wrong gearbox, with its enormous friction. Rebuild the rear shock mounts so the floor could be lowered. Rear seat also made higher and longer, to match scale. 

It now has a 2 speed gear box through the shifters on the center console. 

[br0ken4life]

Anyway you can provide instructions on engine upgrade ? ?

[SimonCK]

Hi Everyone

I've built my defender to the stage where I can add the wheels to test the gearbox/engine before I start adding the bodywork.  It is suffering badly from the tension problem that others have experienced. 

My question - I saw a comment in another thread about changing the gear ratio from the differentials from 8t-24t to 16t-16t.  Does this meaning changing two sets of 8t-24t gears?  There is one set in the middle of the car just behind the gear selector and another set right at the back behind the rear differential?

Also how would this help, does it reduce tension by equalising the ratios.  I guess it would speed up the engine too which would be a good thing because it turns very slowly.

Thanks, Simon