22 hours ago, JunkstyleGio said:

@coinoperator,  everything seems to be working perfectly here...

Yes the links work now but the pictures are still not visible on this site.

I love the new bumper, really perfect now, thanks guys
By the way the original idea is not me but twoofive's

In short I ordered for the light gray parts, but after seeing these pictures finally I prefer dark gray, so I think I'll order again ^^

And many thanks jb70 for the pimp version, I think to build with your plans

 

On 11/11/2019 at 8:12 AM, nerdsforprez said:

Chrome Grill looks amazing.  I think I might apply it to mine. Question for the group- I know if Chrome City Bricks and Real Chrome on BL but the parts selection is so limited.  I see so many with pics of a part selection much more extensive than what I see at either of these two stores.  ANyone have recommendations of other stores?

Chrome Block City.  Auri will do custom batches for you if you’re willing to wait. 

Yes, I know of Chrome Block City.  I labeled them wrong in my post.  My bad.

 

But I did not know the owner (Auri) and I did not know he would do custom orders to TY for the information. 

On 11/13/2019 at 12:43 AM, jb70 said:

IMO the original design has a big mistake: the gear sequence is wrong: If you switch to a higher gear, the engine speeds up. Everybody knows, that in real cars the engine speeds up, when you switch to a lower gear. The reverse gear had a gear ratio similar to 4th gear and did not have any impact on Hi/Lo switch. 

So I totally redesigned the complete gear train. And as a side effect I could get rid of the 4 universal joints to connect the gearbox. Now the gearbox is directly connected to the DNR switch with straight axles, avoiding friction and torsion in the gear train. 

MPD file and PDF instructions have been published on rebrickable.com:

So pimp up your Landrover, if you like!

I was hoping for this! I really don't get why LEGO still cannot make a properly designed drivetrain. They should look more at fora like this and learn.

On 11/12/2019 at 6:43 PM, jb70 said:

IMO the original design has a big mistake: the gear sequence is wrong: If you switch to a higher gear, the engine speeds up. Everybody knows, that in real cars the engine speeds up, when you switch to a lower gear. The reverse gear had a gear ratio similar to 4th gear and did not have any impact on Hi/Lo switch. 

So I totally redesigned the complete gear train. And as a side effect I could get rid of the 4 universal joints to connect the gearbox. Now the gearbox is directly connected to the DNR switch with straight axles, avoiding friction and torsion in the gear train. 

MPD file and PDF instructions have been published on rebrickable.com:

 

So pimp up your Landrover, if you like!

 

This is fantastic. The backwards gears thing drives me crazy. I am still surprised that Lego couldn't come up with a solution like this.

Whatabout a stand for the Land Rover?

 

Seen from the rear, you can see that it's placed in slight angle.

 

Instructions are available through Rebrickable and Bricklink stud.io gallery.

 

I wonder if the gearbox can be moved behind the hi/lo shifter/FNR shifter to leave space for a drive motor, or two. (using 1 or 2 PF L motors)

 

Edited November 17, 20195 yr by SNIPE

The revised drivetrain by jb70 looks great, thank you for all the work that has gone into that and particularly producing the instructions.

On my defender I have swapped the 8t-24t gear ratios coming from the 2 differentials to 16t-16t.  This has sped up the engine as desired, however it has made the cracking/tension worse.  I have followed advice in the Racing Brick video and double checked everything.

The odd thing is that it doesn't crack at all when I push the car backwards, but does it badly when pushed forwards.  The cracking seems to be coming from the centre of the vehicle, either in the front gearbox or the gears going to the central differential. 

Any ideas why it is fine going backwards but not forwards? 

In my Landy it was due to the placement of the 4 u-joints. I don't mean the alignment as mentioned in the video that's posted a few times(you should probably do that as well if you haven't), but just pushing them back and forth on the axles a bit to get them in place.

 

Edited November 21, 20195 yr by DutchChris

Hi EB,

To practice my skills in posting something in EB, I decided to share some 42110 wheel options.
First the tumblers, already seen, with some nice caps.

 

Tumblers with green rims...

And the 8448 wheels... unfortunately, even without the required Pulley, (as in these pictures), they stand out of the fenders more than the original 42110 wheels... they they look nice though...

Best Regards!

 

Are these "tumbler" wheels lego wheels ?

5 minutes ago, LegoTT said:

Are these "tumbler" wheels lego wheels ?

Yes, for instance in 42050...

Are they the same than in the avtoros shaman from madoka ?

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-5360/Madoca1977/avtoros-shaman-8x8/#comments

 

I tought these wheels was rare pieces and very expensive ?

1 hour ago, LegoTT said:

Are they the same than in the avtoros shaman from madoka ?

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-5360/Madoca1977/avtoros-shaman-8x8/#comments

Yes the same... got them second hand from three 42050 good deals... 

 

The new Defender set lends itself well to cut-away pics:

 

 

Imagine how crazy it would be if they released a cut-away set like that...

They would never do that just because it is always possible to do with sets as they come already.....

Great pictures !

I always thought that the large tires clear back from the early 80s (like those on 8860 car chassis) were some of the worst tires produced by TLG.  However, they actually don't look that bad on the Defender. 

 

 

 

37 minutes ago, nerdsforprez said:

I always thought that the large tires clear back from the early 80s

Actual Tires in same size and width would be much appreciated on my local adress.

2 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

I always thought that the large tires clear back from the early 80s (like those on 8860 car chassis) were some of the worst tires produced by TLG.  However, they actually don't look that bad on the Defender. 

 

 

 

 

You can also use 24 x 43 tire on wheel racing small 43.2 x 26 wheel to fit new hubs.

Great thread guys. So glad I've joined.

I read somewhere the door frames can be altered to make them less flimsy. Anyone done this?

On 12/26/2019 at 2:06 PM, nerdsforprez said:

I always thought that the large tires clear back from the early 80s (like those on 8860 car chassis) were some of the worst tires produced by TLG.  However, they actually don't look that bad on the Defender. 

 

 

 

I've ordered a hybrid wheel option... tumbler rims and crawler crane tyres

1 hour ago, Neil_Dalby said:

Great thread guys. So glad I've joined.

I read somewhere the door frames can be altered to make them less flimsy. Anyone done this?

I'm surprised people find the doors flimsy. I always thought they were pretty solid