[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

[Jurss]

I think it will work, also under a load. It just needs to be build littlebit more sturdy, so that gears axles are fixed from both sides.

[pluto7443]

I want to order some parts off Bricklink, and I'm looking to make an independent suspension, driven, steering axle. Which parts would I use for an axle like that? I'd probably use a servo motor for steering, and I'd prefer as small as possible. Thanks!

[Jurss]

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=2739a&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=6571&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=15460&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=6572&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=31794&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=731c04&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=6574&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=87761&utm_source=rebrickable#T=A

Check Axle collection thread, You will see parts used

Some LXF from me https://bricksafe.com/files/Jurss/r5tr/axle_front_independent_11.lxf

[TechnicRCRacer]

I'm having trouble with my latest model. The chassis is very solid and works well, but the bodywork I am trying does not flow or look nice. I'm trying to give it a more premium feel and make nice instructions, but I'm really struggling with the bodywork. Could anyone help or make suggestions?

[willba]

Hi,

I'm pretty new to LEGO thanks to COVID lockdown and I'm having trouble with the latest build and I'm hoping someone can help before I disassemble and potentially have to rebuild!

The build I have a problem with is the Volvo Articulated Hauler (42114), I finished it and was trying to drive it and wouldn't move forward or backwards at all.

The issue is that the two front wheels are turning the opposite way to the rear four wheels, so a diff or something must be backwards.

Has anyone else encountered the same issue and able to point out exactly where I have gone wrong??

I searched before making this post and couldn't see any posts with the same issue, only with the Land Rover Defender (which was my last build and awesome!).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! 

[Jurss]

As You wrote, issue is in incorrect placement of differential. Just change foront differentinal position.

7 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

Could anyone help or make suggestions?

Looks OK already, maybe roof is too high. Also I would make front lights different, so that they align more with that upper panel.

[Surffikoira]

Hey guys! I'm planning of building an European truck with a closed race car trailer for a TC18/42093 scale car. I'm pretty clueless on trucks, but it seems to me like the 42098's scale is a bit too small. Would 62.4mm tires be more appropriate?

[Jurss]

Yes.

Except, if it is more like short range/city truck. F.i. MB Atego, DAF LF series. 

And those are also more usable for some race (rally) car transortation.

[Surffikoira]

2 hours ago, Jurss said:

Yes.

Except, if it is more like short range/city truck. F.i. MB Atego, DAF LF series. 

And those are also more usable for some race (rally) car transortation.

Thanks! I was thinking something like this:

 

[Jurss]

OK, then for comparision use tire diameters

Rally tire for that Škoda will be ~650mm

Truck tire is something like 1076mm

So, then also for Your models tire ratio between truck and car should be ~1.6

That narrow tire on Corvette vs that truck tire (used on Arocs) ratio is 1.44(4). Next lareger tire already will be too large. Maybe that from batcar?

[Surffikoira]

Thanks for checking! Damn, but the Tumbler wheels are too wide.

I found the blueprints with dimensions for the Scania tractor. If i'd be willing to cheat with the car vs. truck scale a bit, the cab width would be 18 studs (2500mm IRL) using Arocs tires. Maybe add to the unrealism and stretch it to 19 studs, which would just fit a 15 studs wide car in the trailer.

Or just make a pickup-truck with a simple trailer for a less grandiose setup 

[Mechbuilds]

Is there a difference between 23801 and 11949 wheel hubs in steering angle? 
If i just add two axle ball joints on the black hub, it should have the same spot than the gray hub. But if you add a 5 long half beam on the suspension arm, will the black hub collide earlier than the gray one? 

[Jurss]

3 hours ago, Surffikoira said:

Damn, but the Tumbler

Not the tumbler. 

I meant front tires from 76139

[Surffikoira]

49 minutes ago, Jurss said:

Not the tumbler. 

I meant front tires from 76139

Ahhh, sorry. Those tires would be perfect, thanks! The look of the rims is optimal, but maybe they could work out.  

[willba]

Hi, 

   I posted on here recently with trouble I'm having with the Volvo articulated hauler.

I have fully rebuilt twice and I am still having the same issue with front two wheels turning the opposite way to the rear four wheels.

Does anyone else have this build completed that may be able to help with the attached pictured?

This is the rear part of the built and the connection point turns anti clockwise when moving forward.

 

This is the front part which also turns anti clockwise when moving forward. When joined the two halves want to turn in opposite directions moving forward or backwards.

If anyone has this and can tell me which part is turning in the incorrect directions I would be eternally grateful as I have no idea where I have gone wrong! 

[Jurss]

I think it was already answered - change front differential, so that its main gear is on other side.

[anyUser]

4 hours ago, willba said:

I posted on here recently with trouble I'm having with the Volvo articulated hauler.

I have fully rebuilt twice and I am still having the same issue with front two wheels turning the opposite way to the rear four wheels.

This is the front part which also turns anti clockwise when moving forward. When joined the two halves want to turn in opposite directions moving forward or backwards.

If anyone has this and can tell me which part is turning in the incorrect directions I would be eternally grateful as I have no idea where I have gone wrong! 

Hello,

if your description refers to observation made when pushing the truck - e.g. not using the motor to move:

This is perfectly OK. The drivetrain is powered via the dark grey differential between rear axles and front one. The propulsion input to the differential housing is always connected to the motor that works as a stop at this point. Therefore the two output sides of the differential are rotating in opposite directions if wheels are turned by hand: You cannot push the hauler by hand. You need to activate the motor to have all wheels turn in the same way.

Verify that you have aligned the differentials as shown in step 340 on page 219.
When I lay my hauler on its side and spin on of the rear wheels, the other rear wheel rotates in the same direction and the fronts wheels rotate in the opposite direction. The housing of the grey differential, e.g. the 24-tooth side of it, are visible from the bottom: It does not turn.

 

[willba]

22 hours ago, anyUser said:

Hello,

if your description refers to observation made when pushing the truck - e.g. not using the motor to move:

This is perfectly OK. The drivetrain is powered via the dark grey differential between rear axles and front one. The propulsion input to the differential housing is always connected to the motor that works as a stop at this point. Therefore the two output sides of the differential are rotating in opposite directions if wheels are turned by hand: You cannot push the hauler by hand. You need to activate the motor to have all wheels turn in the same way.

Verify that you have aligned the differentials as shown in step 340 on page 219.
When I lay my hauler on its side and spin on of the rear wheels, the other rear wheel rotates in the same direction and the fronts wheels rotate in the opposite direction. The housing of the grey differential, e.g. the 24-tooth side of it, are visible from the bottom: It does not turn.

 

Thanks for getting back to me, glad to hear that the wheels should no be able all turn in the same direction and the hauler cannot be pushed by hand.

I've made sure all differentials are aligned in step 340 on page 219, I paid very particular attention to this on the rebuilds.

When I lay the hauler on the side and spin the rear wheels, the housing of the grey differential does not turn like you have pointed out.

Could it be possible one of the two motors in the rear is faulty? Is there any way to test this being possible?

I was so careful following the build instructions considering full rebuilds so I think it has been assembled correctly and as laid out in the instructions..

Thanks again for your help!

[anyUser]

If you got that far you could also set up the control+ hub: Put in the batteries (iset on page 222) and connect the cables as described in step 344 respectively 347.

If you start the control+ app a firmware update will be written to the hub. This can be recognized by the red / green / blue changing of the LED. If the hub is ready the indicator will change to a permanent blue. Select the interface for the hauler. It will open in the setup screen to calibrate the motor. This includes a backward / forward test drive. Do not worry: It will take less than the + / - 1 m space. My truck was moving only about 40-50 cm.
The calibation should finish sucessfully even though the linear actuators aren't connected yet.

 

[TheQuoteMan]

Hi, 

Could anyone point me towards a steered driven solid axle with diff lock that fits Unimog 8110?

I have searched the 8110 MODS and the Axle thread to no avail.

I have converted rear axle to difflock with ease but I am realllllyyyy scratching my head with the front difflock.

 

[howitzer]

Just a quick question: can anyone tell me how much torque the pneumatic switch with axle hole ( https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb0874 ) requires to be turned? Can it for example be operated with PF M motor without gearing for more torque?

[anyUser]

1 hour ago, howitzer said:

Can it for example be operated with PF M motor without gearing for more torque?

Just tested:
With not-fresh batteries: No.
PF L and PF Servo could.

Remark: pneumatic switch (from 42080) was hardly used.

Edited November 14, 2020 by anyUser

[howitzer]

21 minutes ago, anyUser said:

Just tested:
With not-fresh batteries: No.
PF L and PF Servo could.

Remark: pneumatic switch (from 42080) was hardly used.

Ok, thanks! I have a project which requires such a switch, and the motor I'm using is not actually PF M but Spike M instead, which should have similar torque. Looks like I'll have to build a test rig when I get my hands on the switch (waiting for a BL order to arrive..) to determine how much gearing is needed.

[ukbajadave]

18 hours ago, howitzer said:

Can it for example be operated with PF M motor without gearing for more torque?

The best solution I have found is using worm gears. This slows the speed down (increasing torque) and allows fine control.

[Gray Gear]

This question has been bothering me for a while: Why are so little Technic builds getting Frontpaged? I had to go back 16 pages to find 3 Technic MOCs. The oldest one was on 8th of June. That makes 3 Frontpaged entries in over 5 months.

Is the MOC quality here really so low that it that it takes over 5 months to find 3 MOCs that deserve to be frontpaged? I don't think so.

Meanwhile there is a massive ammount of Sci-Fi, Town and Train Tech MOCs frontpaged. Is there some logical reason to this? I just feel like my favorite theme on this Forum does not get the exposure and representation it deserves.

This does not exactly belong here, I know, but I feel like I can just ask a quick question here without bloating the first page with another unneccecary new thread. If there is a better place for this the feel free to move it there.