Maybe big stacks of 1x1 circular plates could get a good effect?

I don't know how that would work...

I just stumbled upon this great demonstration (best i have seen so far) on why it is so important to have a proper setup of your u-joints and just had to share it:

 

Does anyone know what Lego part is used here on top for the eyepiece (foto is from 2013, Lego Ideas):

I got some suggestions that it might be an inverted / inside out Lego tire.

Does anyone know what tire it is?

On 4/24/2021 at 3:25 AM, Andman said:

I just stumbled upon this great demonstration (best i have seen so far) on why it is so important to have a proper setup of your u-joints and just had to share it:

 

Thank you for sharing this! Very smart and clear demonstration. Now I understand why some Lego GBC components I see online sometimes have that unintended speed-up and show-down, while it should be moving at a constant velocity.

Thanks, I've learned something new!

Edited April 25, 20213 yr by BrickDesignerNL

On 3/24/2021 at 5:59 PM, Lira_Bricks said:

Thanks! I would have never imagined Lego ever using nuts/bolts!

The first time I saw them I though it wasn't LEGO until I build this one:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8851-1

The upper part rotates using this par https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3403c01 that would easilly let go of the top, so it's joined together with these (trough the center hole) so it won't fall off when lifting some heavy load. On normal axles and using normal bushes these would probably get lose over time. 

I just finished building my Land Rover Defender Technic set, and I have a problem with the functional pistons. For some reason, when I push the car around, the pistons do not move, but when i pick up the car and spin one wheel, the pistons move. Does anyone know the source of this problem?

6 minutes ago, noahtheb said:

I just finished building my Land Rover Defender Technic set, and I have a problem with the functional pistons. For some reason, when I push the car around, the pistons do not move, but when i pick up the car and spin one wheel, the pistons move. Does anyone know the source of this problem?

Did you line up the U-joints okay? The attachment points have to match.

Yes, I just checked. I think the problem is in the differential, but I can't find out what is wrong with the differential.

4 minutes ago, noahtheb said:

Yes, I just checked. I think the problem is in the differential, but I can't find out what is wrong with the differential.

Are all diffs oriented in the correct direction? Check the instructions carefully and make sure everything looks okay.

Yes, I just checked on Racing Brick's website, and he said to make sure all the differential are facing the correct way. I will check now.

I fixed it now, Thank you!

Any inspiration or examples of passing two axles through a turn-table? I'm trying to power up a crawler crane's tracks from the super-structure, but I'm completely clueless as to how to do this while maintaining the super-structure rotation ability. Thanks!

1 minute ago, Xour said:

Any inspiration or examples of passing two axles through a turn-table? I'm trying to power up a crawler crane's tracks from the super-structure, but I'm completely clueless as to how to do this while maintaining the super-structure rotation ability. Thanks!

See 8043, 8258 & 42070.

1 hour ago, suffocation said:

See 8043, 8258 & 42070.

Thank you! It seems that I don't own the pieces required... oh well, too bad! Thanks again!

Hello, 

The idea to build an Iveco X-way out of 42078 parts came to my mind after seeing Mcd_Technic’s Iveco on Rebrickable. Since a X-way is an hybrid between on and off road, I want to built pendular axles, to support the ‘off-road feel’, but I also want to use parts only from the Mack Anthem, cause I don't have many loose parts (and no springs...) in my collection.

So, I need to build a pendular axle. The rear axles i can manage, that's not too difficult. But the front axle needs steering. All the pendular steering axles I've seen use the steering shaft as the pivot axle, but I don't have a steering shaft. So, I need to built an pendular axle, with steering, but without a steering rack. I know it's a bit overcomplicated, but I want it 

Btw, I created a seperate topic for this question, but now I realize that it’s better to ask it here. Maybe @Jim or @Milan can delete/close my topic? I’m sorry if I cause any frustrations for this...

1 hour ago, Rebel_Lego said:

Btw, I created a seperate topic for this question, but now I realize that it’s better to ask it here.

I would suggest to start with the Axle Collection Thread to browse and see, maybe you will find exactly what you need. We have dozens upon dozens of axle designs there.

Just now, Milan said:

I would suggest to start with the Axle Collection Thread to browse and see, maybe you will find exactly what you need. We have dozens upon dozens of axle designs there.

Didn’t know about that thread, thank you!

Does anyone know a way to create a quarter stud offset? Ideally a spacer (like bush or something) but other methods can also be considered. I know such an offset could easily be created by placing bushes and aligning them carefully on an axle, but those are prone to unintentional sliding, and I'm wondering if anyone has come with a better method...

7 minutes ago, howitzer said:

Does anyone know a way to create a quarter stud offset?

Maybe @Lasse D can help there?

He has used some pretty fancy connections here:

↑ How I imagine the inside of a LEGO set  (And also how it is )

1 hour ago, Milan said:

Maybe @Lasse D can help there?

He has used some pretty fancy connections here:

When we go sub-half-plating, it is difficult to make something both correct and small. I typically use the 0.2 mm space between LEGO parts for these kind of offsets, such as seen on the headlight in the car shown in that picture, or more clearly in the rear diffuser of the Ford GT:

  

This is achieved by turning 1-stud connections.

In Technic-creations I typically use bushes on cross-axles.

49 minutes ago, Lasse D said:

When we go sub-half-plating, it is difficult to make something both correct and small. I typically use the 0.2 mm space between LEGO parts for these kind of offsets, such as seen on the headlight in the car shown in that picture, or more clearly in the rear diffuser of the Ford GT:

  

This is achieved by turning 1-stud connections.

In Technic-creations I typically use bushes on cross-axles.

So... basically stacking bushes until the tolerance accumulation takes care of your offset?

@howitzer is the tolerance needed really tight? 1/5 of a stud would be much easier than1/4 stud

Sometimes when I'm looking for an unusual spacing I'll stack a bunch of old toothed half bushes, which when meshed together are slightly less than a full stud. Perhaps you could get something by messing around with these?

9 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

@howitzer is the tolerance needed really tight? 1/5 of a stud would be much easier than1/4 stud

I want to place a half-beam in the middle of two beams which are 1-stud apart, so yeah, I'm indeed looking for quarter stud offset.