Thanks for the advice, Im going to start a new thread. Wow, thats awesome that you saw one tho, I only found it from asphalt 8+9 and wanted to make it from there, but seeing it in life would be amazing.

  On 11/23/2023 at 5:24 PM, stuffs said:

Im going to start a new thread.

I have merged your question with the Generic Building Help Topic.
If and when you decide to start building the car, feel free to open a Work in Progress topic so others may provide advice or help.

Make sure to read the rules about posting images, including their size, etc.

I recently 3d printed two hailfire droid wheels, does someone have a list of items and parts I can use as the bearings? I cant seem to find anything but gbc balls.

  On 11/24/2023 at 2:23 PM, glowytheglowbug said:

does someone have a list of items and parts

LEGO 4481 Hailfire Droid Instructions, Star Wars (brickinstructions.com)

  On 11/24/2023 at 5:03 PM, Jurss said:

LEGO 4481 Hailfire Droid Instructions, Star Wars (brickinstructions.com)

As in the ball bearings eg wheels or gbc balls?

  On 11/14/2023 at 7:08 AM, Jurss said:

 

Thank you!

A quick and easy one clutch gear (old style) if I want to have a motor connected to a shaft that may lock and I want to put a clutch gear in between to prevent motor damage should I put it motor side or output side of the 2 gears ?

  On 12/4/2023 at 5:54 PM, Seasider said:

A quick and easy one clutch gear (old style) if I want to have a motor connected to a shaft that may lock and I want to put a clutch gear in between to prevent motor damage should I put it motor side or output side of the 2 gears ?

The thing you want to protect has to be connected to the axlehole of the clutch gear. Using the clutch gear as a transfer gear to a function without it actually driving the axle eliminates it's safety usage.

  On 12/5/2023 at 10:35 AM, Zerobricks said:

The thing you want to protect has to be connected to the axlehole of the clutch gear. Using the clutch gear as a transfer gear to a function without it actually driving the axle eliminates it's safety usage.

Technically correct, but it also depends on how much torque he wants to put the load under before the clutch gear slips.

Got a question about building a proper gearbox that doesn't take a massive space of a vehicle. 

Basically I like to build small in a scale that's either close to Madoca's wing body truck and the 42024~42008 scale, it's my favorite one. So there isn't really enough space to fit all the gears and the housing for the gearbox in the chassis, like I planned, and it just turned out to be a 1/5 of the whole vehicle, completely leaving the back seats section with no space at all (behind every real car some seats would appear, but on my design, you see gears. And clutch gears. And driving rings.). I tried getting a realistic gearbox unit at first that's placed at the front section like in the interior of real cars, but I didn't work.

I'd also like to give myself some constructive criticism: So I didn't built the chassis of the car first. I first built the gearbox because that's the most complicated thing for me. But then I realized that I cannot house a transmission (=speed) gearbox if I don't make a proper frame for it. Now I am going to finish this design, because it actually goes well, but lesson learned for future builds!

So the thing is, how to design a good, compact gearbox that has a decent number of speeds (I originally planned 6-speeds, then I reduced (?) it to 5, I'm actually not sure how many there are now. Regaradless there are 3 driving rings arranged linearly) not too big and fits the car properly, like in real vehicles/cars? (I know there are many, many examples hovering all over the internet, although I really want to know how to design my gearboxes well just like most talented MOC builders out there do)

Thanks in advance!

Ok another question I want to stop an axle from pulling out under load, what’s better a single bush or 2 half width bushes?

  On 12/7/2023 at 8:49 AM, Seasider said:

Ok another question I want to stop an axle from pulling out under load, what’s better a single bush or 2 half width bushes?

From my experience, 2 half width ones. But most impotrantly, bushes have to be new or rarely used - they lose a lot of grip strength over time.

  On 12/6/2023 at 8:22 PM, PlopiNinetySix said:

Got a question about building a proper gearbox that doesn't take a massive space of a vehicle. 

Basically I like to build small in a scale that's either close to Madoca's wing body truck and the 42024~42008 scale, it's my favorite one. So there isn't really enough space to fit all the gears and the housing for the gearbox in the chassis, like I planned, and it just turned out to be a 1/5 of the whole vehicle, completely leaving the back seats section with no space at all (behind every real car some seats would appear, but on my design, you see gears. And clutch gears. And driving rings.). I tried getting a realistic gearbox unit at first that's placed at the front section like in the interior of real cars, but I didn't work.

I'd also like to give myself some constructive criticism: So I didn't built the chassis of the car first. I first built the gearbox because that's the most complicated thing for me. But then I realized that I cannot house a transmission (=speed) gearbox if I don't make a proper frame for it. Now I am going to finish this design, because it actually goes well, but lesson learned for future builds!

So the thing is, how to design a good, compact gearbox that has a decent number of speeds (I originally planned 6-speeds, then I reduced (?) it to 5, I'm actually not sure how many there are now. Regaradless there are 3 driving rings arranged linearly) not too big and fits the car properly, like in real vehicles/cars? (I know there are many, many examples hovering all over the internet, although I really want to know how to design my gearboxes well just like most talented MOC builders out there do)

Thanks in advance!

If you compare LEGO gears with those used in their 1:1 counterparts, you would find that LEGO gears are considerably larger in scale. Therefore trying to use them in scales smaller than what they are designed for will be difficult if not impossible if your intentions are to keep them within scale.

  On 12/7/2023 at 1:19 PM, Lego Tom said:

If you compare LEGO gears with those used in their 1:1 counterparts, you would find that LEGO gears are considerably larger in scale. Therefore trying to use them in scales smaller than what they are designed for will be difficult if not impossible if your intentions are to keep them within scale.

Ah I see 

And although to me it doesn't feel the same, I could also try a CVT, which I never tried... probably will be more compact than gears.

Edited December 7, 20231 yr by PlopiNinetySix

  On 12/7/2023 at 8:49 AM, Seasider said:

Ok another question I want to stop an axle from pulling out under load, what’s better a single bush or 2 half width bushes?

The old toothed half-bushes are pretty tight, especially if you arrange them so that the teeth engage too. A bunch of those end-to-end makes the really hard to pull out.

  On 12/8/2023 at 7:14 AM, howitzer said:

The old toothed half-bushes are pretty tight, especially if you arrange them so that the teeth engage too. A bunch of those end-to-end makes the really hard to pull out.

Or a drop of Superglue...

  On 12/8/2023 at 7:14 AM, howitzer said:

The old toothed half-bushes are pretty tight, especially if you arrange them so that the teeth engage too. A bunch of those end-to-end makes the really hard to pull out.

Yeah, no wonder they crack open over time.

I would like to have some second opinions for an unfolding mechanism for some cubus:

Basic idea is to have a cubus of equal length sides (obviously by its name.. ) unfolding itself to have:

• Two walls / sides being angled at their bottom edges by 90° to have their insights brought into a horizontal position
• The top being turned around 180° and also being lowered to the ground to form some higher horizontal plateau, also resting in a horizontal position

Short quick & dirty drawio sketching to give more imagination:

Left side: Top of the cube in the 180° turned and lowered position             ///                         Right side: Top is on the cube, its insides are upside down

Should theoretically be a farely simple mechanism as the bottom and top joints just need to be reduced by factor 4 to have all joints (roating gears) being moved with one source of power, right? (besides weight being a thing, but thats on another page..)

Would be interest in critical opinions or better ways to solve my issue.

 

  On 12/8/2023 at 7:14 AM, howitzer said:

The old toothed half-bushes are pretty tight, especially if you arrange them so that the teeth engage too. A bunch of those end-to-end makes the really hard to pull out.

Oh yes, the childhood half bushes are freakin awesome when it comes to grip on axles... :D

Edited December 11, 20231 yr by aFrInaTi0n

  On 12/11/2023 at 11:22 PM, aFrInaTi0n said:

I would like to have some second opinions for an unfolding mechanism for some cubus:

Basic idea is to have a cubus of equal length sides (obviously by its name.. ) unfolding itself to have:

• Two walls / sides being angled at their bottom edges by 90° to have their insights brought into a horizontal position
• The top being turned around 180° and also being lowered to the ground to form some higher horizontal plateau, also resting in a horizontal position

I don't have access to LEGO right now, but I'm imagining a simple lever mecahnism, kinda like this. Just try out a few different options

 

I think my need is even more simple, as the top plate should basically be rotated at the edge and in the same direction as the other two joints. so basically all three joints hall work in the same direction / dimension.

Anyways I need to watch the mechanism some more itmes to get the idea.. thanks already!

 

Edit: Ahh got it now, it was more about the lever transporting the movement to all joints, not about the rotation - Much more helpful after understanding what was meant!

Edit: I am always forgetting that different lever offsets are also working for doing translations like gears..

Edited December 12, 20231 yr by aFrInaTi0n

Im messing around with a 6x6 for fun, and I have the choice of batteries over the front axle for a better max climbing angle or batteries evenly distributed, giving better rear wheel traction but probably worse max climbing angle. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

  On 1/31/2024 at 7:18 AM, Aurorasaurus said:

Im messing around with a 6x6 for fun, and I have the choice of batteries over the front axle for a better max climbing angle or batteries evenly distributed, giving better rear wheel traction but probably worse max climbing angle. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

Knowing nothing about trial trucks, but drawing from general physics and knowledge, I'd say you need your point of gravity to be about a third from the front. So divide your car in three, and put the point of gravity there.

I'm working on a very large ship. It'll probably end up 1 meter or so in length. I'm trying to build a skeleton/frame inside so it doesn't buckle or come apart when I lift it up. Ultimately, I'd like to have it lifted up on a stand.

My question, is this frame sturdy enough? The technic frame itself will be doubled/stacked on top of itself, with a two plate buffer between the stacks so I can connect the 14720s. I will also have a layer of plates under/over it. 

Edited February 17, 20241 yr by TomSkippy
picture

  On 2/17/2024 at 10:37 PM, TomSkippy said:

I'm working on a very large ship. It'll probably end up 1 meter or so in length. I'm trying to build a skeleton/frame inside so it doesn't buckle or come apart when I lift it up. Ultimately, I'd like to have it lifted up on a stand.

My question, is this frame sturdy enough? The technic frame itself will be doubled/stacked on top of itself, with a two plate buffer between the stacks so I can connect the 14720s. I will also have a layer of plates under/over it. 

 

What about replacing some of the beams with 67491's mounted vertically? 

Is there a trick to aligning big CV joints like universal joints? My specific example is this new CV to UJ