[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

[mdemerchant]

@Carsten Svendsen This should look nice but it's slightly too large diameter and the part is only available in very limited colors.  41125.  I don't know of a star shaped part exactly the size you want.  Maybe you could build something with 4x4 or 6x6 round plates and small tiles but I don't think you would be able to get six points that way.  Four points would be easy though and getting the spiral is easy by mounting the plates on pins so you can set them to whatever angle you want.  Use bars to join the pins.

 

[Carsten Svendsen]

3 hours ago, Hrafn said:

@Carsten Svendsen

my first thought would be to try https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=44374#T=C

Doubled up it gives you 6 blades, then you can align successive pairs on the same axle at 30 degrees offset between each pair.  But that gives you too much twist… hm.

For augers, I have seen other builders use flex axles twisted in a helix around an axle, to give a sense of the auger’s edge.

 

Yeah those pieces were my very first thought back in the day but it didn't work, as you said, they have way too much twist. Also they are too short, so I'd have to extend them 1L which I don't think is sturdy enough and also doesn't look great.

I have seen that teqnigue with augers as well, I'm just not confident in the sturdyness of it. Right now I've got ribbed hoses around an axle, but I've cheated and used glue to make it stay in place.

 

53 minutes ago, mdemerchant said:

@Carsten Svendsen This should look nice but it's slightly too large diameter and the part is only available in very limited colors.  41125.  I don't know of a star shaped part exactly the size you want.  Maybe you could build something with 4x4 or 6x6 round plates and small tiles but I don't think you would be able to get six points that way.  Four points would be easy though and getting the spiral is easy by mounting the plates on pins so you can set them to whatever angle you want.  Use bars to join the pins.

The blades definetely looks nice, but as they have a pin hole instead of an axle hole, this would make it impossible to stay in that shape while spinning. Also they are way too big.

I had a thought of using flex hoses but on a twist (studio can't twist hoses), but then I don't know what to fill the void in the middle with so....

Maybe I'll just post in the system forum if I can find the right category

Edited May 27, 2022 by Carsten Svendsen

[mdemerchant]

21 minutes ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

The blades definetely looks nice, but as they have a pin hole instead of an axle hole, this would make it impossible to stay in that shape while spinning. Also they are way too big.

Parts with a pinhole can stay in place, you just make a big long pin out of pins and bars instead of using an axle.  If you are willing to live with four points and a nice twisted shape I think it's easily done with 4x4 round plates and pointed tiles at the size you want.

[Carsten Svendsen]

1 hour ago, mdemerchant said:

Parts with a pinhole can stay in place, you just make a big long pin out of pins and bars instead of using an axle.  If you are willing to live with four points and a nice twisted shape I think it's easily done with 4x4 round plates and pointed tiles at the size you want.

I can't do the twisty thing with tiles and plates, obviously not everything can be recreated in lego. I played around with your idea of using round plates and I do like the looks of this. Because they're plates, it's also a lot easier to put in two different axles as I need to. 

The width is pretty much perfect, probably slightly wider irl due to tolerances. Diameter is about 6.5 studs on the widest across, so close enough to 7 with what it is. I just worry that there's too much mass in here and that it will create difficulties operating.

 

Edit: I just saw in a this solution and I would like to know what ring piece that has been used? Maybe I can do something similar

 

Edited May 27, 2022 by Carsten Svendsen

[mdemerchant]

9 hours ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

Edit: I just saw in a this solution and I would like to know what ring piece that has been used? Maybe I can do something similar

I would guess some sort of narrow wheel but given the extremely creative parts usage on that MOC it could be practically anything 

Clips fit on the edge of a wedge belt wheel which will give you basically the same structure but something slightly larger diameter is being used here.

[Jayden]

17 hours ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

Edit: I just saw in a this solution and I would like to know what ring piece that has been used? Maybe I can do something similar

It is this 

Edited May 27, 2022 by Jayden

[Carsten Svendsen]

7 hours ago, Jayden said:

It is this 

Hmm, that could work alright, I'll try it out. Thanks

[Jayden]

1 minute ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

Hmm, that could work alright, I'll try it out. Thanks

You are most welcome.

[MP LEGO Technic creations]

On 5/27/2022 at 6:22 AM, Carsten Svendsen said:

I just saw in a this solution and I would like to know what ring piece that has been used? Maybe I can do something similar



In fact, it is actually a wedge belt wheel with a tyre. The new type of steering wheel doesn't hold the clips in defined position and needs an additional support.

The result looks how I wanted to but I'm not completely sure if it'd be suitable for your model. 

One more thing - if you let those clips attached to it for longer time, the tyre won't be useful anything else, then.

 

 

Edited May 30, 2022 by MP LEGO Technic creations

[Carsten Svendsen]

52 minutes ago, MP LEGO Technic creations said:

In fact, it is actually a wedge belt wheel with a tyre. The new type of steering wheel doesn't hold the clips in defined position and needs an additional support.

The result looks how I wanted to but I'm not completely sure if it'd be suitable for your model. 

One more thing - if you let those clips attached to it for longer time, the tyre won't be useful anything else, then.

 

 

Ah I was wondering that as well as the steering wheel has spokes on the back which would interfere. Also, they're quite deep and bulky. I don't have the facilities to test it out physically, but this does seem quite plausible. Thanks

Edit: This looks really great imo. I'll go with the solution on the right

Edited May 30, 2022 by Carsten Svendsen

[thekoRngear]

Guys, regarding gearbox I have observed something which might sound interesting. I am not expert in gearbox mechanism anyways. 

Below in the picture is the Technic Defender 42110's 4-speed sequential gearbox mockup with tweaks borrowed from the Pimped Up version. The Pimped Up version has those rear 16t gears (it is 20t and 12t double bevels in the Pimped Up, I kept it the same as original gearbox) supported by longer axles. In the original gearbox, those 16t gears are connected through 3L Stop axles. The Pimped up version replaces them with longer axles with no stop and, a T beam is also attached on top of those 16t axles. The bottom single hole is attached with the blue pin. What amuses me is that if that T Beam is detached the gearbox works more freely. When the T beam is there, it feels as if the gearbox is having some kind of resistance. This is not the only instance I am describing here. A month and half ago I had to tweak the McLaren Senna GTR MOC (from 42115). Its 8 speed sequential gearbox has couple of points similar to the pictured one where 20t and 12t double bevels are paired. I saw if I don't use 3L stop axles and use a longer axle (just one stud longer) without any support (such as the T Beam in this case) they move more freely. I kept that longer axle but open. Looks definitely bad but the whole gearbox gets to spin and mesh freely. Since it was one instance I did not think it was necessary to tell about it anywhere. But now that I observe it again can anybody tell me what actually is happening here? Has anybody tried that out before?

 

[Zerobricks]

I suppose it's because the connectors can slide apart slightly along with the axles and gears. Once you put a beam over them that can cause issues.

[Lipko]

I think the problem with that setup is that the T beam is not fully constrained, so it's possible that it can be inserted with slight misalignment or can go off during play. That's why I usually try to avoid such situations. But there's a much worse thing going on in that mock-up: the L beam. Only fixed by one friction pin (so not fully constrained by the structure, but constrained by the rotating axles). Also the piece behind the shorter arm of the L beam will try to separate from the other parts (only friction axle and two frictionless pins will hold the piece). So the L beam and that part will try to shear the rotating axles on the left. Depending on space constrains, I would have put the L beam one stud to the left and fix that connector part from the left side with two hole-pin parts. Edit: should be tested

To sum it up: if you have a rotating axle, avoid having holes that are too close to each other on parts that are not fully fixed (fully fixed: friction pin or form-locking solutions) together.

Edited June 21, 2022 by Lipko

[2ndgen]

I hope I have the right place. 

Has anyone attempted putting suspension on 8285 at all. 

I just finally found one a reasonable cost (ish), and. Struggling how to add suspension without changing to much of the original truck. 

Any sort of info would be great as I haven't been able to find a single thing on this, other then a few mentions, and a fuzzy YouTube video that's less then helpful. 

Thanks gals and guys. 

[Zerobricks]

On 7/17/2022 at 8:27 PM, 2ndgen said:

I hope I have the right place. 

Has anyone attempted putting suspension on 8285 at all. 

I just finally found one a reasonable cost (ish), and. Struggling how to add suspension without changing to much of the original truck. 

Any sort of info would be great as I haven't been able to find a single thing on this, other then a few mentions, and a fuzzy YouTube video that's less then helpful. 

Thanks gals and guys. 

I think 42043 would be a good inspiration.

[2ndgen]

On 7/18/2022 at 3:52 PM, Zerobricks said:

I think 42043 would be a good inspiration.

Ya that's a good idea, change the front a bit, to work with driveshaft steering maybe. I dunno. I'm trying also to keep it as low as I can, but realistically is it possible, not so sure. 

[kopylov]

Hi there! Does anybody know is Mindstorms Robot Inventor hub equivalent to the Powered Up one in terms of output voltage and current strength? I am trying to figure out will powered up motors work in the same way with mindstorms hub as with powered up hub (in terms of speed and torque) or not

[Jayden]

8 hours ago, kopylov said:

Hi there! Does anybody know is Mindstorms Robot Inventor hub equivalent to the Powered Up one in terms of output voltage and current strength? I am trying to figure out will powered up motors work in the same way with mindstorms hub as with powered up hub (in terms of speed and torque) or not

Hi.

It depends on what battery's you use for the hub (1.2V 6x for rechargeable 1.5 6x for standard), but the RI has an output of 7.2V.

[JESUSWARRIOR777]

I was watching older saved videos and came across the "Dominator TRS - Lego dually pickup truck" video by Zerobricks and saw this awsome 15 cylinder engine and was wondering if there is any type of instructions on how to build it? It would look great with a few sets I'm building now.

[Zerobricks]

On 7/26/2022 at 2:55 PM, JESUSWARRIOR777 said:

I was watching older saved videos and came across the "Dominator TRS - Lego dually pickup truck" video by Zerobricks and saw this awsome 15 cylinder engine and was wondering if there is any type of instructions on how to build it? It would look great with a few sets I'm building now.

Topic is available here:

 

[Carsten Svendsen]

Hello, I'm having issues again.

I need a solution to transfer circular motion around corners. For the top motors, this is easy, just a hard linkage.

For the bottom two motors, they need to be connected to each other as well to the top ones.

It is to synchronise the motors so that they all run at the same speed constantly. I thought maybe convert to piston movement and then a corner piece but I think that would cause too much slack and wouldn't work anyway.

Then I thought about creating a fork that kind of slides back and forth, but it wouldn't ever be locked in place to the current rotation.

[1gor]

@Zerobricks photo (from over 5 years old mobile phone) should present my problem;  through second vertical hole in 7 x 11 frame and double bent liftarm should this part go...

I hope that you can figure out what I mean (hole just in front of red transverse 1 x 7 liftarm)

 

[Zerobricks]

1 minute ago, 1gor said:

@Zerobricks photo (from over 5 years old mobile phone) should present my problem;  through second vertical hole in 7 x 11 frame and double bent liftarm should this part go...

I hope that you can figure out what I mean (hole just in front of red transverse 1 x 7 liftarm)

 

How about using a 32054 + 2736?

Or use a 5L beam and connect it to the upper and lower holes and use that to hold your pinball linkage.

[1gor]

3 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

 

Or use a 5L beam and connect it to the upper and lower holes and use that to hold your pinball linkage.

This one I can actually try, but have to keep in mind that connection must be within 7 studs width, otherwise it will rub on Xerion tire during turning...

Thank you 

[MP LEGO Technic creations]

6 hours ago, 1gor said:

This one I can actually try, but have to keep in mind that connection must be within 7 studs width, otherwise it will rub on Xerion tire during turning...

Thank you 

Why don't you use this inserted into that 2780 pin?

Maybe I've overlooked something but if not, this connection should be fine.