I think these side panels could be attached slightly better (original attachment left, modified attachment right):

Edited June 11, 20204 yr by Didumos69

As soon as i saw the rubber band used to link engine and drivetrain, i knew something had to be done

 

The engine now rotates quicker, making first gear look frantic and second gear non-sluggish (i think second gear is now the speed first gear was, thinking about the gearbox) Ive eliminated one rubber band and capped off the original drive side of the crank with the large flat gear for decoration, on the other side, using the tan 20z gear has the benefit of looking vaguely like those round housings in the side behind the fairings on the real bike.

More work remains to be done, but this just had to be fixed ASAP

 

Edited June 11, 20204 yr by vectormatic

4 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I think these side panels could be attached slightly better (original attachment left, modified attachment right):

It is indeed more rigid, but dissolves the original idea of easy removable body panels.

I did it anyway, as the bike looked overweighted with that belly, and turned it into a Streetfighter V4, details can be found in the 42107 topic (I didn't expected a separate topic).

Added: fake front brakes, belly panels, clutch and brake lever, rear fender is widened, etc...

 

Edited June 11, 20204 yr by agrof

I have an idea for the drive train on the right side: Replace the three 16z gears with 12z + 20z clutch + 12z. That will allow space for a pair of 16z gears in the place of the rubber band.  Can anyone test this?

10 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

I have an idea for the drive train on the right side: Replace the three 16z gears with 12z + 20z clutch + 12z. That will allow space for a pair of 16z gears in the place of the rubber band.  Can anyone test this?

This was suggested in the other thread, and I pointed out that the lower 16t gear will hit the shifting limiter mechanism when shifting gears, so some further modification would be needed to make that work.

1 hour ago, BrickMonkeyMOCs said:

This was suggested in the other thread, and I pointed out that the lower 16t gear will hit the shifting limiter mechanism when shifting gears, so some further modification would be needed to make that work. 

Either way, as i posted above, the other side of the body offers the space for a 20z-12z connection between engine and gearbox, which also helps to speed up the engine a bit. IMHO this is a perfectly servicable fix for the problem.

 

Im considering whether it is possible to change the stepper mechanism to use one of those rubber 2L thingies rather then a rubber band, im not sure how durable those things are, but its bound to be better then the rubber band.

 

Also, does anyone have any bright ideas for the rear shock? comparing pics the bike is sitting just a tad high at the rear, and i would prefer a bit more stiffness in the suspension, so a repositioning of the rear shock is in order i think.

@vectormatic Same thoughts here too. Though it is not 100% aligned, but does the job properly - and just a tad harder shifting feel.

Only 3 parts needed.

EDIT: added one more "led" to the headlight:

Edited June 12, 20204 yr by agrof

Hi guys,

Here are a few mods I have done to mine :

 

Modified stand for better stability :

Chain tensionner :

 

2 Pins tol hold the dashboard in naked config :

Nice one @agrof, i dont know if i have the rubber 2 stud thingy in my spares, if i run across one ill definitely give it a try!

@agrof that looks fkn sick

On 6/12/2020 at 2:06 AM, vectormatic said:

As soon as i saw the rubber band used to link engine and drivetrain, i knew something had to be done

This mod can even be done without new part. I just took the 12z half gear from the chain transmission and put it in the top position, and then I turned the 20z half gear inside.

Half gears don't mesh very well, only the tip of the teeth are in contact. I tested this too, but doesn't seem legit.

My modifications have been kept strictly cosmetic, haven't touched the gears or anything. One thing that bugged me from the start was a lack of the front mudguard, rear lights, front brake callipers and the radiator. So I've added all these into my model. 

Edited July 4, 20204 yr by Desmo_Mash

Do the suspensions still work with these mods ?

2 hours ago, Leewan said:

Do the suspensions still work with these mods ?

To a certain extent, yes but it's now very limited both in the front and rear. Statically looks a lot better which is what I was after.

Rear can be fixed by reverting to original exhaust manifold idea though

Very interesting modifications you guys made. The first thing I did as I assebled it the first time was to replace all the blue pins, axles and other parts in weird colors, as i always do. I'm lucky to have a lot of old spare parts to do so.

I wonder what you think about that windshield? I like these red Katana swords. Nice solution. But the windshield itself looks way to scrached and milky to me.

Any ideas to solve?

Hi, duc fans...

I mod mine aswell.

Tank cap, brake pads, front and rear fender, exhaust under de rear, front lights rear lights, handgrips and levers...

Enjoy...

 

 

Edited September 15, 20204 yr by Viperfreak24

Good idea to use brick parts for fenders.

Not so good idea to use eb to host pictures, it is not menat to do so. Use bricksafe, flickr etc. to host pictures, then just paste link here, it will embed automatically.

Okey,

Thx for the upload tips.

Thx for the comment to.

I will change the pictures soon..

The brick fenders look smoother then.

Edited September 15, 20204 yr by Viperfreak24
Other link for attachments

 

So, I enjoyed building this, my first technic motorbike. 

Great tinkering value in this set. I think I am done now! Made some similar mods to many above:

Front mudguard, still has reasonable suspension travel. Attached to frame, but forks turn it somewhat with the wheel. Also more aggressive lights and added brake levers. 

Tried to cover the hole around the fuel tank and ended with this - I think it bulked up nicely. Also eliminated one elastic band. 

Rear mudguard beefed up, added lights and number plate. Also red shock, tightened chain. 

Sorry to necro a month-long abandoned thread, but I just built this set the other day, and am wondering whether anyone thinks a compact sequential stepper/shifter mechanism could fit. I don’t like the basic shifter it has and really wanna replace it, but have no idea whether there’s space to fit a seq. shifter

Edited December 4, 20204 yr by Bartybum

5 hours ago, Bartybum said:

lSorry to necro a month-long abandoned thread, but I just built this set the other day, and am wondering whether anyone thinks a compact sequential stepper/shifter mechanism could fit. I don’t like the basic shifter it has and really wanna replace it, but have no idea whether there’s space to fit a seq. shifter

I am afraid you just won't find the place to do it.

I tryied it and get to this conclusion that all the gearbox/engine setup has to be rebuild.

 

Next to that is the question: what's the interrest af sequential shifter just for...2+N speeds gearbox?

EDIT: i am sure that creating at least a 4speeds sequential is possible...

Edited December 4, 20204 yr by steph77

51 minutes ago, steph77 said:

Next to that is the question: what's the interrest af sequential shifter just for...2+N speeds gearbox?

I don't like the unrealistic shifter. Bike shifters move back into place after pressed.

On 11/6/2020 at 1:07 AM, DrJimbo said:

 

 

Wow! I like how you installed new front separate side lights! Looks cool!

 

6 hours ago, Bartybum said:

compact sequential stepper/shifter mechanism could fit

I think the stepper mechanism won't be issue here, it will be hared to arrange all the gears and those switches for gears compact way.

Check this

2 speed sequential gearbox will be about the same size.