Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 22, 2020 Posted July 22, 2020 (edited) REVIEW - 42113 - BELL BOEING V-22 OSPREY INTRODUCTION (In False Swipe Gaming’s style and voice) What’s up everyone. Next up, we have the Osprey. This aircraft is among one of the most well known tiltrotor aircrafts, a̶n̶d̶ ̶h̶a̶s̶ ̶b̶e̶e̶n̶ ̶c̶a̶r̶r̶y̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶d̶e̶m̶o̶c̶r̶a̶c̶i̶e̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶r̶e̶m̶o̶t̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶s̶ ̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶i̶n̶c̶e̶ ̶i̶t̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶c̶e̶p̶t̶i̶o̶n̶. I still remember the time when I was going over the different types of helicopters and thought to myself “When will I ever see an official Lego Technic tiltrotor aircraft?” And guess what, that day has finally come. This set is perhaps the most eagerly waited and is expected to be most technically complex in the 2020 Lego Technic lineup. Today we’ll be examining if this set is worth the hype it’s been building. So we ask, how good is the 42113 Bell Boeing V-22 Osprey actually? (I’m a huge Pokemon fan and a regular follower of False Swipe Gaming’s videos) PICTURES Unfortunately there are no hi-res versions. My only piece of photography equipment is the smartphone Samsung Galaxy J7 Prime I’ve been using for 3 years. Its photography capabilites are mediocre. I also don’t have a professional grey backdrop. My room is adequately lit, but my phone can’t capture that. So the photographs are gonna be subpar, and the backgrounds are gonna be messy. Sorry for that. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by me, to me, for me. I learned of its existence through a photo on Facebook about the accidental spotting of the premature introduction of this set onto the shelves by the sole Lego distributor in Vietnam. After there was the rumor that its release is delay, I immediately drove 45 minutes to that store and grabbed it before other people caught wind of the news. So in a sense, my acquisition may not be entirely legitimate, but I paid for the set fair and square, and any problem should be due to the distributor. It is my goal to give you an honest opinion about this set, and, because I reallyyy like it, it also happens to be my goal to promote this set to you guys. Yes I’m biased. SET INFORMATION Number: 42113Title: Bell Boeing V-22 OspreyTheme: TechnicReleased: 2020 but actually no this set has been cancelled and will never be releasedPart Count: 1,642Box Weight: I didn’t weigh it because I don’t have a scale. Please refer to Sariel’s review for this information. Box Dimensions: I didn’t measure it because I don’t have a tape ruler either. Please also refer to Sariel’s review for this information.Set Price (RRP): € 129,99 / $ 149.99Price per Part: € 0,079 / $ 0.091Links: Brickset HISTORICAL CONTEXT Since the beginning of the new era of Technic (2009 onwards), there have been quite a number of large aircrafts. They are: - 2012 – 9396 – Helicopter – 89.99 EUR / 119.99 USD, 1,056 parts. - 2014 – 42025 – Cargo Plane – 119.99 EUR / 139.99 USD, 1,297 parts. - 2016 – 42052 – Heavy Lift Helicopter – 119.99 EUR / 139.99 USD, 1,042 parts. - 2017 – 42066 – Air Race Jet – 119.99 EUR / 159.99 USD, 1,151 parts. - 2020 – 42113 – Bell Boeing V-22 Osprey – 129.99 EUR / 159.99 USD, 1,642 parts. The pattern here seems to be that there is going to be a 1000-1200 piece motorized aircraft set for the price point of 120 - 130 EUR / 140 - 160 USD every two years. The 42066 is a bit of an anomaly because it is released one year earlier than expected. As the debate about military relevance rages on, I would also like to touch upon the possible connections of the previous aircrafts. This following part is totally speculation on my part. I suspect that all of them are modeled after existing military aircrafts and then slightly tweaked to remove the resemblance: 9396 A: Sea King 42025 A: Lockheed C130 42052 A: Kamov 42052 B: Chinook 42066 A: F-35 The resemblance to an existing military aircraft tends to increase over time. It is fair to say for quite a while the TLG has been tiptoeing around the no-military rule they imposed on themselves. THE BOX The box is fairly big but feels light. It fills up to 2/3 of the set. Since I got mine copy directly from the store, there’s no visible damage anywhere. There’s no 2-in-1 logo, which means another B model bites the dust. But I’m actually okay with that in this case. The back of the box shows a very impressive rear view of the aircraft, along with the various motorized functions. CONTENT OF THE BOX The set contains: - Sealed instruction booklet with stickers - 4 bags #1 - 4 bags #2 - 2 bags #3 - 2 bags #4 - 1 unnumbered bag that contains the 6 rotor blade and the flex axle used in the cabin - 1 black paper box that contains the dumb Battery Box and the L-motor New Parts in 42113: - Power Up Battery Box, part number 6214082 Parts in New Color in 42113 - Technic Liftarm 3x3 T-shaped in Orange, part number 60484 / 6305545 - Rotor Blade/Sian Side Skirt in Black, part number 6305550 - Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm in Orange, part number 60208 / 6303441 - Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in Orange, part number 18945 / 6303439 - Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in DBG, part number 18945 / 6112843 - Technic Panel 3x5 #1 in DBG, part number 87080 / 6013548 - Technic Panel 3x5 #2 in DBG, part number 87086 / 6303445 - Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #50 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310171 - Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #51 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310172 - Technic Curved Panel 3x13 in DBG, part number 18944 / 6303446 Rare Parts in 42113: - Linear Clutch White Half, part number 46834 / 6257336 - Linear Clutch Grey Half, part number 46835 / 6257337 - Frame 7x11 in White, part number 39794 / 6247435 - Biscuit Connector in Yellow, part number 39793 / 6252654 - Technic Connector #4 135 degrees in Orange, part number 32192 / 6262900 - Technic Shell Panel 3x7 in Orange, part number 24119 / 6149936, 6303440 - Technic Liftarm 9L in Orange, part number 40490 / 6135086 - Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in LBG, part number 11946 / 6236922 - Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in LBG, part number 11947 / 6236920 - Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in DBG, part number 11946 / 6330085 - Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in DBG, part number 11947 / 6197945 - Technic Panel 3x7 #3 in DBG, part number 64683 / 6248902 - Technic Panel 3x7 #4 in DBG, part number 64391 / 6248903 - Technic Shell Panel 3x11 2 holes in DBG, part number 62531 / 6211633 - Technic Panel 5x11 in DBG, part number 64782 / 6207990 - Cylinder Hemisphere in Black, part number 86500 / 6252319 This set is a heavenly part pack for all the DBG and Orange panels lovers out there. PART LIST The set consists of 1,642 parts, shown below. BUILDING EXPERIENCE The build is split to 4 stages: - Stage 1: The fuselage and the cockpit - Stage 2: The gearbox and the wings - Stage 3: The rotors - Stage 4: The tail and the fairings STAGE 1 Similar to 42052’s design, the build starts with the wall panels and wraps around the battery box. The dumb Battery Box is a part of the reinforcing structure and isnt designed for removal because battery replacement only takes place on one side. In contrast, to replace the batteries in the old PF battery box, you always need to detach the whole battery box. The new Battery Box has an axle hole at the switch and is designed to be turned on from the OUTSIDE, through the protruding 5.5 axle. Then the side landing gears are attached. The landing gear uses the past-the-midline lock to prevent the model from collapsing on itself. This lock technique also appears in the 42066. After that the build moves to the rear ramp. This ramp is a huge upgrade over the predecessors’ ramps, because it involves two pieces moving in opposite directions through clever linkages. The cargo bay has plenty of space, and Sariel’s hamster will definitely like it. Notice the position of the red bush. When the ramp is closed, the bush is further away. When the ramp is open, the bush is pulled back closer. Then the build moves to the front landing gear, the cockpit, and the side skirts. The front landing gear also uses the same lock technique. After stage 1, the build looks like this. There are two windows behind the cockpit that are deliberately left unfixed. The reason is the assembly from stage 2 will connect to the fuselage through points accessible only through the windows. I like those windows, because they look like fish gills. STAGE 2 The build starts with the uppermost layer of the gearbox. The uppermost layer involves fitting pieces around and into the white 7x11 frame. This is the bottom view of the setup above, and it shows the middle layer. The middle layer contains three axles: - The black one tilts the rotor - The red one drives the blades - The middle DBG one reverse the direction of the gears. It doesn’t connect to any function. At first I thought the whole setup is odd, redundant, and over-engineered. But then it all makes sense to me. Basically, the drive train for the rotor tilting is the most complex one, because it requires: - A gear driven by a worm gear to prevent backward transmission. In other words, any function that involves fixing something in a certain position or angle will need to counter gravity and thus will almost always require a worm gear. - A clutch system to prevent stalling and axle twisting. It has become apparent for some time that the 24z white clutch gear isn’t always usable because it takes up more than 3 studs and restricts the usage of the surrounding parts. Hence, the tilt rotor drive train goes like this: - In the middle layer: Black axle -> 12z gear -> 20z gear -> 3 8z gears -> a worm gear that connects to the blue 20z clutch gear in the upper layer - In the upper layer: Blue 20z clutch gear -> 12z gear -> linear 3L clutch on the same axle -> 12z gear on the same axle -> Tan 20z gear -> Side axles Look closely and you can see the blue 20z idle gear above the worm gear. The setup is very, very, very well thought and well designed. Every single piece has its own role. The reason for the round about blue 20z -> 12z -> clutch gear -> 12z -> tan 20z is that there are only two types of big gears that can be driven by a worm gear: 20z and 24z. And as stated above, 24z is too big. And the 3 8z gears are there instead of 2 16z gears because the space doesn’t allow the latter. Meanwhile, the rotor blade drive train is less complicated: - In the middle layer: Red axle -> 2 8z gears -> tan 20z gear that connects to the 12z gear in the upper layer - In the upper layer: 12z gear -> tan 12z half gear in yellow axle -> side axles. So the rotor blade drive train is geared up slightly. Now comes the bottom layer of the gear box. This layer contains the L-motor on one side, and one m-LA on the other side. The axle from the L-motor is geared down in the 12:20 ratio to the middle axle. The m-LA is to drive the landing gear retraction. This is the bottom view. After the bottom layer is attached, the build moves toward the rear, which includes 4 bi-directional switches. Reminder that this is the bottom view. Some more parts are added, and the basic axle system has taken shape. I really like the clear color coding. Bottom layer: - Yellow axle goes to the m-LA in the front that controls the landing gears. - DBG axle goes to the m-LA in the back that controls the ramp. It isn't connected to the 12z-20z gears. Those gears are connected to the motor. - Motor goes 12z-20z to the middle axle. Middle layer: - Red axle goes to the spinning blades - Black axle tilts the rotor - DBG axle in the middle reverses the direction of the gears. Official Lego sets have used several techniques to reverse the direction for the sets of gears in the front and back in bi-directional gearbox: - Using a 16z -> 20z -> 16z to drive 16z gears from below through a 2x3 rectangle. This one is used in 42042, 42055, 42082. - Using a brace with 3 12z half gears. This one is used in 42054 and 42056. - Using a 16z -> 8z -> 8z -> 20z drive train on the middle line. This one is only used in 42066 so far The direction reversal technique in this set is similar to the one in 42066, but it’s a huge improvement over its predecessor. The problem with the 42066 technique is that the set of gears on one direction is driven by a 16z, while the set on the other side is driven by a 20z, which creates a subtle yet noticable difference in speed between two directions. In this set, the direction reversal from the motor goes like this: Motor -> 12z gear -> 20z gear -> the 16z gear that drives the set of red 16z idller gears in the rear and 3 8z gears that reverse directions of the red 16z idller gears in the front. This technique eliiminates the difference completely by driving solely through 16:16 and 8:8 gears, which are all 1:1 and thus preserve the speed. There are only two switches in the assembly. The other two have already been attached to the fuselage. To be exact there are only 3 bi-directional switches, not 4 though. The switch for the rotor blade function can only be selected in one direction and is blocked in the other direction. To sum up, the 4 switches are designed like this: - In the bottom layer: one will go directly to the m-LA that points to the cockpit and controls the landing gears, and the other one will go directly to the other m-LA that points to the tail and controls the ramp. - In the upper layer: one will tilt the rotor, and one will rotate the blades. The axles for both switches go through the white frame and branches to the sides. The 5x11 frames are added, together with the drive axles. The frames are fixed at a slightly upward angle. The drive axles near the cockpit tilt the rotor. The drive axles near the tail rotate the blades, and therefore need to incorporate two linear clutches through the white pin connectors. THE MARRIAGE At the end of stage 2, the gearbox + wings assembly are dropped onto the fuselage. After the marriage the top is completely covered. The head of the m-LA will connect to the spare pin hole of the 3L LBG liftarm in the linkage that control the landing gears below. An orange bush with pin head will be inserted from the window behind the cockpit. On the other side, the wire from the L-motor is connected to the readily available port in the battery box. After that the wire must be bent 90 degrees upward, so that the gill wall can close shut. The plug head of the wire already saves some space for this case, so no worries about squeezing and damaging the plug or the wire. After that beams are added from the top to close the gill walls completely. STAGE 3 In this stage the two rotors are built. The rotors are mirrored and thus feel repetitive. There’s nothing special in this stage, so I didn’t take any photo. It might not be clear to some people, but the rotor tilting drive axle tilts the rotors through the 2x4 L-shaped liftarm, and not through any gears that mesh with the small turntables. I thought the axles drove a 8z gear that meshes with the turntable at first. But no. The small turntables are there only to bear loads. STAGE 4 There is this very funny part in the linkages to the rear elevator. All of the liftarms are connected through frictionless pins. Yes you read that right. A 11L assembly of linkages built through 1 3L liftarm and 2 5L liftarms are connected together through frictionless pins. In reality the build looks like this. I thought “This must be a joke right? How can I control the rear elevator with this kind of thing? There’s no way the linkages can hold themselves up together and transmit. Maybe it’s an error in the instruction. Lego’s instructions are prone to that nowadays. Surely it must mean the usual black friction pin right?” I replace the frictionless pins with the friction one, and indeed it looks better and feels better and controls better. But then I would have 3 unused frictionless pins and will be lacking 3 friction pins. Hmm. Perhaps the frictionless pins setup will work when it is attached to the model? I decided to give it the benefits of a doubt. And OH MY GOD IT WORKED. IT’S NO MISTAKE, PEOPLE. It actually works. My initial thoughts are plain WRONG. I was too too quick to dismiss it. The reason it works when incorporated into the model is this tiny 1 stud opening in the back. The linkage was squeezed through that hole, and thus is held horizontal steadily. There’s no drooping like it did in the separate module. There’s this small odd detail in the tail that I don’t understand. The rotors have a red light on the driver’s side and a green light on the passenger’s light. That’s the international requirement for aircrafts, and I know this. But on the rear sponsons, there is only one red light on the driver’s side, and no light on the other side. I don’t know why. If you know why, please enlighten me. FINISHED MODEL Please refer to the Technic Comparison thread for photos of this model in the best lighting conditions, as well as comparison with other aircraft models. FUNCTIONS 1. Spinning the blades. 2. Tilting the rotors 3. Opening the rear ramp 4. Retracting the wheels. 5. Controlling the elevator The functions are best demonstrated through videos, so please refer to Sariel’s review to see. Here I want to talk about these threefunctions. 1. Spinning the blades. First, the one thing I keep forgetting about this feature is that: I must NOT turn this feature on when the rotors are horizontal! Why? Because the rotor blades are longer than the distance from the wing to the ground. If I turn it on, the blade will quikcly hit the ground and stall. Urg. To observe the spinning blades, I must always rotate the rotors the vertical position first. I wish there is some mechanism to prevent the blades’ spinning when the rotors are horizontal. Second, I tried using my finger to block the spinning blades, and it does hurt. Not terribly, but more than I expected. So this feature might not be very safe for kids. Indeed mass times speed = ouch. This also means the model totally should not be swooshed around when the blades are spinning. Third, when I stop the blades, the motor seems to struggle to deliver power. And if I block the blades on both sides, the motor stalls instead of continuing to deliver power. That means the linear clutch inside the wing doesn’t have the low tolerance like I thought. Fourth, when I turned on the switch to start this function, the motor stalls and rattles for a few seconds before the blades spin normally. It seems like the motor has to overcome a significant initial inertia. The motor seems to be straining to deliver power. The blades still spin fine, but the axles in the gearbox spin slower than usual, and the sound coming from the motor is weird. I troubleshoot by turn it on on multiple separate occasion when the blades are removed, when the left rotor is removed, when the right rotor is removed, and when both are removed. The motor and the axle only rotate normally when both rotors are removed. I think either the rotors design interfere with the function, or the drive train isnt geared down enough. The gear ratio from the motor to the spinning blade is practically 1:1. 2. Tilting the rotors The rotors have some slack due to the complicated drive train, but the slack is only about 1 degree. It’s not much. And they tilt quicker than I thought. The movements and positions of the rotors have an effect on those of the blades, and vice versa: - Tilting the rotors from ▬ to ▮ will spin the blades inward like this ↺ ↻ by 30 degrees - Tilting the rotors from ▮ to ▬ will spin the blades outward like this ↻ ↺ by 30 degrees. For example, if the rotors are ▬, and the blades are ▲ ▲, after tilting upward, the rotors become ▮ and the blades will become in these positions ▶ ◀. They spin inward 30 degrees. And if the rotors are ▮, and the blades are ▲ ▲, after tilting downward, the rotors become ▬ and the blades will become in these positions ◀ ▶. They spin outward 30 degrees. That means the position of the rotor blades has an effect on the tilting function, and you've gotta be careful about the display position of the rotors and the blades. I usually display the rotors ▬ and the blades ▲ ▲, so most of the time there is no problem with the tilting. But once I put the rotors ▮ and the blades ◀ ▶, and I turned on the tilting function to make the rotors ▬. Becuase of the 30 degrees outward spin effect, the blades become ▼ ▼. Because the length of a blade is larger than the distance from the rotor to the ground, the rotors stalled, and I have to spin the blades manually out of that position for the tilting to work. So the display position that should be avoided is that rotors ▮ and blades ◀ ▶. 5. Controlling the elevator It is rather strange that there is no mention whatsoever in the official instruction that this is a function. The function demonstration double pages in the back only show the 4 motorized functions. An inexperienced builder may not realize the existences of this manual function. HANDLING The model is very very rigid. The wings cannot be ripped off. Sariel’s review will show you this. Therefore it can be picked up by the wings, the tails, or the cockpit. Just don’t grab the sponsons. In the bottom there are two holes behind the landing gears for you to put your fingers into. This means the model is very swooshable. I don’t swoosh my models though, but I think some of you may want to. Just don't turn on the spinning blades while swooshing. They will sweep into your face. SUMMARY WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THIS MODEL - The design is very very very well thought. - The gills. I don’t really know why but I really like the fact that this model have gills!!! - The 4 bi-directional switches gearbox. - The orange accent. Lego’s orange is a very strong accent color, and it always surpsises me. The orange on the screen never striikes me as strongly as the real life orange. - The tilt rotors. - The upgrades of the functions. This set feels like it takes all of the functions from the previous aircrafts and raise them to a new bar. One-piece ramp -> Two-piece ramp. Past the midline lock from 42066. Direction reversal technique from 42066. Properly covered wings. - It looks bloody hell beefy and muscular. I swear it gives off the vibe of a guy lifting weights on both sides and flexing muscle fibers at the same time. - The most technically complex aircraft to this date. No dispute about this. - The finger holes in the bottom - A very faithful reproduction of the real model. The proportions are correct. WHAT I (SLIGHTLY) DON'T LIKE ABOUT THIS MODEL - I keep forgetting when to and when not to turn on the spinning blades SCORES Design: 10/10 Building Experience: 10/10 Features: 9/10 Playability: 7/10. It’s highly playable, but only got 7 because of the hazards presented by the spinning blades Parts: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Final verdict: 9/10. Is it worth the hype? Completelyyy. And it is indeed the most technically complex set in the 2020 lineup. It has been 2 years since the last proper Technic set, with drive axles and gearbox and bi-directional switches. And none of the remaining set in the 2020 lineup has this kind of sophistication. What else are you waiting for? Start building one yourself!!! WHO MAY LIKE THIS SET? - Me. Well yeah, of course. Duh. - Aircraft geeks. - Miilitary equipment geeks - DBG panels lovers - Orange panels lovers - The Lego Group WHO MAY NOT LIKE THIS SET? - Also The Lego Group - GPO DFG VK - B model lovers IF THIS SET WAS A MAGIC ITEM: +10 to Social Responsibility -20 to Adherence to Stated Values and Principles -20 to Consistency -20 to Brand Reception Forces the player to discard the current hand. The player loses the game. Edited July 28, 2020 by Ngoc Nguyen Quote
Bartybum Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ngoc Nguyen said: But on the rear sponsons, there is only one red light on the driver’s side, and no light on the other side. I don’t know why. If you know why, please enlighten me. Probably a strobe light. No need for Textron to waste money by putting in a second one in the real V-22 Edited July 23, 2020 by Bartybum Quote
icm Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) Thanks for a very detailed review! Sure wish this set hadn't suddenly become more exclusive than an SDCC Boba Fett Brickhead, it's a real beauty. Edited July 23, 2020 by icm Quote
brickless_kiwi Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) 28 minutes ago, Bartybum said: Probably a strobe light. No need for Textron to waste money by putting in a second one in the real V-22 Correct. Love the review. Edited July 23, 2020 by brickless_kiwi Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 23, 2020 Author Posted July 23, 2020 1 hour ago, Bartybum said: Probably a strobe light I thought strobe light must be white? Quote
Bartybum Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 4 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said: I thought strobe light must be white? Perhaps nav beacon Quote
Dylan M Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 Is this a Markus pieces? Probably i will build this one some other day when the rainbow comes... -Shalom Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 23, 2020 Author Posted July 23, 2020 8 minutes ago, Dylan M said: Is this a Markus pieces? Probably i will build this one some other day when the rainbow comes... It certainly feels like a Markus's creation. But I don't know for sure. Quote
1gor Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 Thanks for very nice review. Best aircraft LEGO Technic set so far IMHO. Quote
lee1980 Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 I initially thought would not get this as have the jet plane un-built, this looks so good though, is big and have no where to display but what a great set of functions to. Shame no good talking about as cancelled!!! Quote
brickless_kiwi Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 35 minutes ago, richmond202008 said: How u buy battery box ? please The battery box is currently only available with this set. Quote
mostlytechnic Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 Thanks for the review, and I appreciate all the details you gave on the technical design. Looks like a set we'll all miss. Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 23, 2020 Author Posted July 23, 2020 2 minutes ago, A_Eurobricks_User said: The U.S. price is $149.99 Thanks. I added that in. Quote
JunkstyleGio Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 I had it pre-ordered for €111... But it was canceled! Too bad.... But there will be other models. @Ngoc Nguyen Nice review by the way. Quote
A_Eurobricks_User Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, mostlytechnic said: Thanks for the review, and I appreciate all the details you gave on the technical design. Looks like a set we'll all miss. What a shame it's been cancelled... Edited July 23, 2020 by A_Eurobricks_User Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted July 23, 2020 Author Posted July 23, 2020 I added some unicode geometric characters to illustrate the relationship between the rotors and the blades. Quote
Polarlicht Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 Wonder if someone will loan a set to Sariel to review it? Quote
paulmison Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 9 minutes ago, Coolusername said: Wonder if someone will loan a set to Sariel to review it? Sariel is getting a copy, according to this comment on his YouTube community page. Quote
teos Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 Highlighting this review on the main page is rather tactless. Quote
Bartybum Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 1 hour ago, teos said: Highlighting this review on the main page is rather tactless. What do you mean Quote
BrickWild Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 Consider yourself lucky! ;-) By no means getting one is going to be a cheap feat, let alone easy! Quote
brickless_kiwi Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 16 minutes ago, BrickWild said: Consider yourself lucky! ;-) By no means getting one is going to be a cheap feat, let alone easy! It remains to be seen whether stores in the US and Europe and Australian sell 42113s by calculating I'd say 1000 to 1200 where shipped to nz given the numbers per store and stores Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.