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Posted
14 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

The mod finally works!!!!!

I combine this

 

20200729_005212

 

with this

 

20200729_005328

 

The blades spin much more slowly but the motor is no longer stressed. The rotation speeds of the axle coming from the motor when the spinning blades are turned on and off are the same now. The sound is also the same. The motor is finally at peace.

Is it a simple case making as per the 2 pictures? are more parts needed to do?

Posted
54 minutes ago, lee1980 said:

Is it a simple case making as per the 2 pictures? are more parts needed to do?

Yes it is simple. Overall you need these parts:

- 3 20z tan gear
- 1 3L liftarm
- 2 blue 3L pins

I also reinforced the structure inside the rotor a bit, but it has nothing to with the mod. I replaced the 5L axle + 3L connector with a 6L axle + 2L connector, and a connector pinhole with two pins. You don't have to do the second mod.

Posted
43 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Yes it is simple. Overall you need these parts:

- 3 20z tan gear
- 1 3L liftarm
- 2 blue 3L pins

I also reinforced the structure inside the rotor a bit, but it has nothing to with the mod. I replaced the 5L axle + 3L connector with a 6L axle + 2L connector, and a connector pinhole with two pins. You don't have to do the second mod.

Thank you, I think I get it will remember this if I decide to build or not at some point. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Where do you plan to put the switch and the bi-direcional gearbox?

Dont know yet :laugh:

Posted

If manual, I think you'd still need some locking function to keep the wings in place when handling the model. If that means a worm gear, I'd go for motorized. Otherwise I'd go for moving the superstructure by hand (no gear connection to the turntable at all).

Posted

Today I  did a quick and simple mod of replacing the white 2L pin joiners and friction axle pins under the wings with just 4L axles, because for some reason,

When I turned the motor on, the axles were rotating just fine on both sides until it got to one of the white pin joiners on one side, then it stopped. However the other side worked fine on both sides of the pin joiner.

The 42100 linear clutch is still activated when the VTOL is at its max or minimum rotation and even if the blades or spinning or stationary.

Posted (edited)

Maybe, something like this would work:

50172960462_c32fe3751c_o.png

It seems to fit, you get the double gears, and it is kind of braced.

Edited by imvanya
Posted
5 hours ago, imvanya said:

Maybe, something like this would work:

50172960462_c32fe3751c_o.png

It seems to fit, you get the double gears, and it is kind of braced.

Yes, that was my thinking too, after @R0Sch pointed out the potential problem with my solution which he posted above. I hadn't considered adding the 3l axles top and bottom but that's a great idea because any slack between the liftarms and the gears, which might cause the gears to misalign vertically, can be removed by tightening them slightly.

Posted (edited)

So I finally figured out how to make a super compact blade pitch and rotation mechanism *yey*:
640x659.jpg
This has been tested IRL except I didn't have part 47501 so I just used a 1x2 plate and two pins with stud.
Here's how it works: (The VTOL axle is hidden here but will still be present)
640x261.jpg
The mini turntables are in the same place as the original model. The ball joint is actually not just tied to the VTOL line, it is its own function axle so you can change the blade pitch in VTOL or normal mode.
Here is the LDR file

Perhaps someone (Maybe @efferman ?) can figure out a way to attach the blades? The pinholes should really be on the sides not on top so the blades are awkward to mount.

Regards, Snipe

Edited by SNIPE
Posted

Solved it :)
20200801_075356.jpg20200801_075329.jpg

The first idea I had was to replace the 47501s with 3164s and attach the blades onto the two studs but this made the blades angle in and out on the wrong axis though it did look kinda cool.

I actually, made the blades rotate in yet the 3rd wrong axis last night, which also looked kinda cool because it could also be used to unfold the blades like an umbrella. I'll post the other two designs just for fun soon in this reply.

So then I figured out that I could just use some 32138s along with a thin beam and axle pins.

One oversight I had was, since the blades are now pinned to the gark bluish gray wheel, I need a way to clamp the wheel together with the red gear while alllowing the axle to slide through it as well as rotate.

Posted

Gear reduction mod explanation:

First replace the 3-side black brace that meshes the black 12z gear with the tan 12z half gear in the yellow axle

50141675518_bb9a0e7b12_b.jpg

 

with a 3L beam and replace the black 12z gear with the tan 20z gear. Move the tan 12z half gear to the right 0,5 unit and add the white connector as a bracer.

50162964918_76993a3273_b.jpg

 

Then add two 20z gears into the rotors.

 

50163503091_01cf62ba7b_b.jpg

Posted

I'm surprised those three z8 gears are the issue. I used the same exact technique in one of my tow trucks and it still works fine even after a year of relentless manhandling.

800x720.jpg

Posted (edited)
Cracked it!. I needed to have a way to mount the gears and housing as well as the dark bluish gray wheel so that they allow an axle to slide in and out through it yet still rotate.
 
Here's a video of it working: https://youtu.be/CIRMnGynUJE The pin with ball joint changes the blade pitch.
The rotation is just done with a red frictionless 8 tooth gear which is stepped down to a pair of 12 tooth bevel gears
(I will replace this with a 20+12 thin bevel gear pair actually for more torque).
 
Also the wheel hub allows the axle to slide through the axle hole whilst still keeping the wheel clamped to the gear housing. This was the hardest part.

One slight problem that needs fixing is the two discs can still slide along the axle because of the friction working against them.
Also everything needs to be placed inside of a 7 x 11 technic frame since the spring keeps forcing the beams apart but now that I have a working prototype (the hardest part) the rest is easy.
legosmall.png
ldcad file coming soon!
 
Regards, Snipe.
Edited by SNIPE
Posted

I bought a copy, built the model and wrote a review of the Osprey : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-technic/42113/bell-boeing-v-22-osprey-42113-markus-kossmann-2020

42113-01.JPG

I gotta say, now that I have built it, I am very sceptical about all this shitstorm about 42113.

It would make a lot of sense that TLG didn't cancel that model because of the military BS but because TLG found out very late in the process that the product has a very major design flaw in its core. And so took advantage of the situation to cancel the launch of the product.

Redesigning and providing customer service for such a product would have been VERY complicated and VERY expensive. Analysing the product to come up with a fix matching Lego building standards, bringing home all sets already shipped, opening boxes, adding extra parts to fix the set, redoing instructions, reprinting them, maybe redoing box design, updating the production lines. And also all costs related to communication about this mess.
Not to mention that the product would have been delayed a lot to get fixed and relaunched properly.
 

Full cancel plain and simple was the simplest way to go.

@Huw Millington

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