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Posted
34 minutes ago, Anio said:

I bought a copy, built the model and wrote a review of the Osprey : http://www.techlug.fr/review-lego-technic/42113/bell-boeing-v-22-osprey-42113-markus-kossmann-2020

42113-01.JPG

I gotta say, now that I have built it, I am very sceptical about all this shitstorm about 42113.

It would make a lot of sense that TLG didn't cancel that model because of the military BS but because TLG found out very late in the process that the product has a very major design flaw in its core. And so took advantage of the situation to cancel the launch of the product.

Redesigning and providing customer service for such a product would have been VERY complicated and VERY expensive. Analysing the product to come up with a fix matching Lego building standards, bringing home all sets already shipped, opening boxes, adding extra parts to fix the set, redoing instructions, reprinting them, maybe redoing box design, updating the production lines. And also all costs related to communication about this mess.
Not to mention that the product would have been delayed a lot to get fixed and relaunched properly.
 

Full cancel plain and simple was the simplest way to go.

@Huw Millington

I had the same feeling once I found about the design flaw. The insane cost and delay associated with a fix would've just made the set unprofitable anyway so cancelling is the logical option here.

How this flaw escaped QA is baffling though, but at least we now have an explanation on how the TLG supposedly missed the military connotations of this set and the apparent conflict with their stated values: They didn't, they just decided there's no such conflict and went ahead with the development but were then forced to cancel the set for an unrelated technical reason.

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Posted (edited)

TLG redesigns the set without flaw, puts it on the market with a mea culpa, speculators of flawed set stuck with it. Win-win situation.
Unfortunately mea culpa and TLG don't go well together so.... will not happen.

Edited by Berthil
typos
Posted
3 hours ago, Berthil said:

TLG redesigns the set without flaw, puts it on the market with a mea culpa, speculators of flawed set stuck with it. Win-win situation.
Unfortunately mea culpa and TLG don't go well together so.... will not happen.

Not gonna happen since their official statement is relatet to the Osprey being mostly used in military, which violates their own guidelines. How would they fix that? They'd lose their credibility and the shitstorm will be even bigger.

But let's get back to topic. @efferman, i really like cost guard color scheme.

Posted (edited)

It seems to me that there is another potential way to fix the gearbox flaw, perhaps better than doubling up the 8t gears.  The purpose of the three 8t gears is to power the red 16t clutch gears on one side in the opposite direction.  This is a problem, because the changeover switch for the rotors only goes in one direction, and engages with the red gear that is driven through the 8t gears.  How about simply re-configuring the rotor switch so that it goes in the opposite direction.  That way it will engage with a red gear that is driven directly by other 16t gears, not through the 8t gears.  This would need a bit of rearrangement of course (currently there is an extra liftarm where the red gear needs to be. 

Sorry if this is hard to understand.  It's also possible that there is some obstruction to this scheme that I cannot see (I don't have the set). 

Edited by aeh5040
Posted
21 hours ago, aeh5040 said:

That way it will engage with a red gear that is driven directly by other 16t gears, not through the 8t gears. 

This is part of my gearbox.

Posted (edited)

Didn't want to use lime rotor blades respectively those from set 8046/42092 so I made a subsitute:

011_wr_33655k.png

Edited by anyUser
200709: picture update
Posted (edited)

Here's a small fix for the gaps in the nose cone.

Really simple and needs only few parts. I really wonder why they didn't make that.

Before:
50206194341_1a29a123f3_c.jpg
After:
50206194371_74539ddb5e_c.jpg

This replaces step 136 in the instructions:

50205680128_0295957e9c_c.jpg

Edited by Vaionaut
Posted

I really like the clear instructions that Vaionaut has given in the previous post.  Could someone do something like this for whatever is the best solution for the Lego 42113 gears issue(s)?  I have looked at this entire thread but I don't understand the fixes that seem so clear to others.  People talk about things like a 20z something and I have no idea what 20z means, for example.  Ideally, if someone could provide simple instructions like the kind that comes with any lego set, that an 11 year old could follow easily, I think it would do a world of good for everyone.  It would also be great if there were some parts numbers for ordering purposes.  Thanks in advance.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, pb007 said:

I really like the clear instructions that Vaionaut has given in the previous post.  Could someone do something like this for whatever is the best solution for the Lego 42113 gears issue(s)?  I have looked at this entire thread but I don't understand the fixes that seem so clear to others.  People talk about things like a 20z something and I have no idea what 20z means, for example.  Ideally, if someone could provide simple instructions like the kind that comes with any lego set, that an 11 year old could follow easily, I think it would do a world of good for everyone.  It would also be great if there were some parts numbers for ordering purposes.  Thanks in advance.

First you need this pdf. Have a close look at the steps 220 to 223. In the meantime i will create building steps for you. Just give me a couple of minutes. I'll update this post when i'm done.

UPDATE:

Here you can download the instructions. Have a look at the last page for an overview. Parts in green are changes to the original version.

UPDATE 2:

I totally forgot to answer your others questions:

  1. Here you can find some further helpful links, including a part list which can be imported into bricklink to order them.
  2. 20z refers to a gear with 20 teeth. But i have no idea why it's "z"
12 minutes ago, Dylan M said:

That's so clear at good instructions 

Good job

Thanks

Edited by Andman
Posted
3 hours ago, pb007 said:

People talk about things like a 20z something and I have no idea what 20z means, for example.

20z means 20-tooth

20-z gear refers to the 20-tooth gear, bricklink code 32269: 

32269.jpg?1

 

12-z gear refers to the 12-tooth 1-module thick gear, bricklink code 32270

32270.jpg

 

12-z half gear refers to the 12-tooth 0.5-module thick gear, bricklink code 6589

6589.jpg

 

You can find the parts number at the end of the instruction file.

Go here for a complete guide on how to build your own model: 

 

50 minutes ago, Andman said:

First you need this pdf. Have a close look at the steps 220 to 223. In the meantime i will create building steps for you. Just give me a couple of minutes. I'll update this post when i'm done.

UPDATE:

Here you can download the instructions. Have a look at the last page for an overview. Parts in green are changes to the original version.

Can you do the instructions for my mod as well?

Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Can you do the instructions for my mod as well?

I can try. Just point me to the file with your mods :-)

UPDATE: Are you referring to your torque fix here?

Edited by Andman
Posted
13 minutes ago, Andman said:

I can try. Just point me to the file with your mods :-)

In the instruction, page 130 & 131, which is step 161 and 162, replace the 3-side black brace that meshes the black 12z gear with the tan 12z half gear wth a 3L beam and replace the black 12z gear with the tan 20z gear. Move the tan 12z half gear to the right 0,5 unit and add the white connector as a bracer.

50162964918_76993a3273_b.jpg

 

In page 251, step 319, replace the 12z half gear with a 20z gear. Remove the 3-side brace.

In page 255, step 324-325, add a -o- connector between the two connector points of a small turntable. Then add a 2L axle connector + a red 6L axle from one side and the 12z gear on its way in. The result is like this.

50163503091_01cf62ba7b_b.jpg

 

Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

In the instruction, page 130 & 131, which is step 161 and 162, replace the 3-side black brace that meshes the black 12z gear with the tan 12z half gear wth a 3L beam and replace the black 12z gear with the tan 20z gear. Move the tan 12z half gear to the right 0,5 unit and add the white connector as a bracer.

50162964918_76993a3273_b.jpg

But this requires tan 20z in step 193 on page 146 to be swapped with black 12z from step 161 on page 130. Otherwise it wouldn't work, would it?

 

Is there already a cad file from the original version out there? It would make it way easier for me to do instructions.

UPDATE: Found one

Edited by Andman
Posted
20 minutes ago, Andman said:

But this requires tan 20z in step 193 on page 146 to be swapped with black 12z from step 161 on page 130. Otherwise it wouldn't work, would it?

Yes my bad. The 20z gear in the bottom should be changed into a 12z as well.

Posted
On 8/8/2020 at 4:19 AM, efferman said:

first complete realtime build can start.

50201674221_a769659c80_c.jpg

 

Sorry for the OT but what software did you use to build / render this model? It looks beautiful!

Posted
32 minutes ago, Magical Duck said:

Sorry for the OT but what software did you use to build / render this model? It looks beautiful!

Stud.io 2.0

Posted

Actually nowhere. It is still a beta version, only to test the drivetrain, and actually i have a customer project. So the osprey must wait.

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