Triangle windows in the doors, rear view mirrors added, grille finished, hood lock and hinges finalised.

You mentioned on the stream that the front suspension might be too soft.

I'm guessing a single axle is even more twisty.

What happens if you use 2L axle connectors instead of 3L, or #2 Angle connectors?

11 hours ago, amorti said:

You mentioned on the stream that the front suspension might be too soft.

I'm guessing a single axle is even more twisty.

What happens if you use 2L axle connectors instead of 3L, or #2 Angle connectors?

The white connectors are stiff enough, the main problem is in the exposed axle in the liftarm just before the 8z gear. That's allowed to twist too much.

@nicjasno I have a question about bionicle parts you use in front suspension. I mean for example connector with ball sacket (93571). I orderd couple of them and they fit veery tight. Does this connection anyhow slow/block the front suspension?

With time and a bit of help it loosens up.

Nicjasno is the first one to stream a lego build from start to finish that i know of. Excellent idea. I've learned so much from viewing hes stream. 
Hope to see more streams like this in the future. 

Don't forget to submit your suggestions for the next project.

The best suggestion is to complete this cool model  and discuss the building instructions creation :)

Edited October 22, 20204 yr by Aleh

I am looking forward to instruction for Charger. @nicjasno where I can put my suggestions? I have two in mind.

I'd like to see a classic mini. There's some real technical challenges such as fwd with "correct" suspension, and the rear swingarm setup is wild.

All that with some sort of elastomer suspension (rubber 2l connectors maybe?) should keep your interest in building it.

4 hours ago, keymaker said:

I am looking forward to instruction for Charger. @nicjasno where I can put my suggestions? I have two in mind.

Right here will be fine.

@nicjasno In

at 2:03:00, you try to place this piece:

You can also achieve this by using this piece:

supported from below by this piece:

Also, above the front wheels, there is a diagonally placed 13L liftarm. This makes a triangle with sides 5, 11 and 12 but that is not a rectangular triangle. To make it a rectangular triangle, it should change to 5, 12 and 13. For example by using one of these two constructions:

• Change the mounting point at the back of the wheel 1 stud to the inside and 1 stud to the back. Then it can attach directly below a pin hole of the 5 x 7 frame. The mounting point in the front will then go 1 stud to the inside, nicely on top of the 5 x 7 frame. This solution might interfere with the grey 2 x 4 liftarms.
• Change the mounting point at the front 1 stud more to the front.

The car is a fantastic project. Thank you for the streams!

I seriously respect this model. It takes on a commonly built car, at a commonly built scale, yet manages to create something totally unique! The emphasis on realism in the mechanics and the well-thought out bodywork really make it stand out. I am sure it would be fascinating to watch the live streams, but I simply can't justify the time. Great work!

@nicjasno's streams are great help for beginners. I've learned so much things by watching hes streams. 

3 hours ago, technicmath said:

@nicjasno In

at 2:03:00, you try to place this piece:

You can also achieve this by using this piece:

supported from below by this piece:

Also, above the front wheels, there is a diagonally placed 13L liftarm. This makes a triangle with sides 5, 11 and 12 but that is not a rectangular triangle. To make it a rectangular triangle, it should change to 5, 12 and 13. For example by using one of these two constructions:

• Change the mounting point at the back of the wheel 1 stud to the inside and 1 stud to the back. Then it can attach directly below a pin hole of the 5 x 7 frame. The mounting point in the front will then go 1 stud to the inside, nicely on top of the 5 x 7 frame. This solution might interfere with the grey 2 x 4 liftarms.
• Change the mounting point at the front 1 stud more to the front.

The car is a fantastic project. Thank you for the streams!

The flex axles can not go through axleholes, that's why that piece is not being used.

The triangle mounting points on the firewall can not be changed, especially not in the positions you are suggesting. That would make it worse. The mount points are where the structure is strongest.

Edited October 22, 20204 yr by nicjasno

28 minutes ago, nicjasno said:

The flex axles can not go through axleholes, that's why that piece is not being used.

The triangle mounting points on the firewall can not be changed, especially not in the positions you are suggesting. That would make it worse. The mount points are where the structure is strongest.

Sorry, I did not realize that a flex axle should go through that place. Another possibility is to use this piece:

The axle hole of this piece connects to the black liftarm. Then a 3L liftarm (possible at both sides of the above piece) can be used: 2 pin holes in the pins of the above piece and 1 pin hole at the top where the flex axle can go through.

Nice solution, if it fits the gap. Still needs something to stop it spinning but should be possible.

This thing would make the flex axle too long :P

Pleasure to watch you build again in real time.

This one is really something. Yeah, a bit different from your old (and my favorite) studded builds, but nevertheless, it is really packing both functions and look.

Off-topic: miss the old days on your forum and all the builds there, especially your collabs with Ivan. Just few days ago I used the Wayback site to take a look at how the forum used to look back then. Oh the memories.

 

On 9/19/2020 at 6:01 PM, nicjasno said:

It'll have a fake v8 with valves and stuff, and alternatively electric motors for R/C.

That will be cool. What motors are you thinking of using? You could use the R/C Buggy motors, Power functions, Powered Up, or even the EV3 motors or the Lego Education motors. When I found out about the Lego Education sets and saw the new motors. I immediately realized how much better they are in terms of shape and connectability. 

I love your Dodge Charger, it is coming together nicely. Maybe you could consider some interior lights and lights underneath the car to light up the road (I thougt of this when I saw the picture of the Charger's hood open and the orange panels glowing in the light). I love the suspension and the structural integrity of your models, it is inspiring! Great job @nicjasno!

 

5 hours ago, Milan said:

Pleasure to watch you build again in real time.

This one is really something. Yeah, a bit different from your old (and my favorite) studded builds, but nevertheless, it is really packing both functions and look.

Off-topic: miss the old days on your forum and all the builds there, especially your collabs with Ivan. Just few days ago I used the Wayback site to take a look at how the forum used to look back then. Oh the memories.

 

Good times :)

8 hours ago, Milan said:

Pleasure to watch you build again in real time.

This one is really something. Yeah, a bit different from your old (and my favorite) studded builds, but nevertheless, it is really packing both functions and look.

Off-topic: miss the old days on your forum and all the builds there, especially your collabs with Ivan. Just few days ago I used the Wayback site to take a look at how the forum used to look back then. Oh the memories.

 

Indeed, the old times...

I check the live builds if possible, and they are really enjoyable! Thanks for sharing the design and build process!

Why have you choosen these tyres, not like what is for the unimog or Defender?

10 hours ago, bekesizoltan said:

I check the live builds if possible, and they are really enjoyable! Thanks for sharing the design and build process!

Why have you choosen these tyres, not like what is for the unimog or Defender?

13 hours ago, nicjasno said:

 

Makes sense. The best that you could pick.

Edited October 25, 20204 yr by Milan
No need to quote the pic from the previous post. Thanks.