a little while ago I started making a Pagani Zonda c12 in 1:10 scale here are some pictures on brick safe bc I can't figure out how to put large-sized pictures in here https://bricksafe.com/pages/MY1/pagani-zonda-c12. anyways it has a modified version of @Leviathan's  5+r manual gearbox, the one in his Jannarelly design one. independent suspension on all four wheels and I plan on implementing openable doors and rear clamshell bonnet. suspension is inspired from Legos recent 42115. I am planning on using the standard lego wheel 15038 in the back and the new Land Rover wheels in the front bc I think it gives the car a subtle wide to less wide look. I have not figured out how to do a shifting mechanism yet but I'm thinking about going with a ball joint lever similar to @Gray Gear's cars

Edited March 19, 20213 yr by MY1

Best is to copy link to that picture of 800x..... , and just paste link here, it will embed automatically. This is best size for all forum users, not to let them wait to load all large pictures.

thx

On 12/1/2020 at 5:49 AM, MY1 said:

I have not figured out how to do a shifting mechanism yet but I'm thinking about going with a ball joint lever similar to @Gray Gear's cars

Thanks for choosing my gearbox on your moc ! If you have enough place, Gray Gear lever and shifting mechanism is a great solution.

Edited December 3, 20204 yr by Leviathan

  np

Edited March 19, 20213 yr by MY1

UPDATE

I have now installed a shifting Mechanism using @Gray Gear ball lever joint thing along with a safe shift mechanism because what I found out is that the normal white shifting piece 49136 makes it hard to shift accurately with the ball joint so I decided to use piece 42195 instead which forced me to use the safe shift mechanism. I also found that someone did a speed build of @T Lego Centenario, so I got some inspiration from that for the steering bc for me getting the rack and pinion connected to the steering wheel sucks. My next step is to make seats. I had planned to redesign the Defender's seat unfortunately my dog chewed up part of one of the chairs and one part I think he might have ate. I will probably post some pictures later when I have time 

Edited December 7, 20204 yr by MY1

as  I said I would put in some pics when I got the chance so here are some pics

Ive 

I need some help on the doors because they don't seem to replicate the shape of the real door as well as I would like them too>  here is what I have for a door right now I

 

I think that using technic panel piece 64392 along with the gray curved piece above would be a much better replication of the real door however I can't figure out how to do so 

Edited December 10, 20204 yr by MY1

I have made some progress on the Pagani here is a pic of the entire thing so far 

I have added seats, dash, better doors, and the immediately recognizable Pagani exhaust pipes. 

unfortunately, nobody responded to my asking about the doors. I decided to use a 7m flex rod try to get a pointed looking edge. I also put an orange slope piece on the end and a 12m flex rod on the top. 

 

here is the dash at first glance it looks like it's attached by the black connector pieces but then I realized that it was very flimsy so I attached the two technic beams to the dash and those technic beams attach to the frame by the steering column u can see which frame I'm talking about in the above posts.

here are the seats. as you can see very high-quality leather, tri-colored and quad-colored. the top part of the seats connects to the pin with a stud which holds the seats from excessive amounts of movement. 

last is the very recognizable Pagani exhaust. I used the pin connector tube pieces as the exhaust pipe, they are connected to a half stud offset piece which centers them on the back of the car. interestingly I found that I had 2 mettalicy looking  pin connectors so I used those Im sure i can find two more of those but for rn i just have 2 different colored exhaust pipes 

Good progress, looks good.

I have done some more work here are some pics:

so I have totally changed the suspension set up on both front and rear axles the first 2 pics are the rear axle. it now uses an L shaped lift arm instead of a T shaped lift arm. this allows the direction of spring travel to be less vertical and more horizontal. this makes the springs only 1 stud above the rest of the axle compared to before it was 2 studs. it also gives the springs less travel but since the car is already low to the ground I don't care. the last 2 pics are the front axle suspension setup. this new setup kinda fits inside the axle and allows for the same turn radius and the same suspension travel. 

 

 

this is the rear-end clamshell hood which was probably the hardest thing to design so far and it's not really done yet. of this placing the white panels on the edge to be in the right direction while also being sturdy was quite the challenge. I came up with this solution of using an angle connector, number 3,  connected to a weird triangle piece with axles coming out of it, to get the correct direction. the panels with the gray beam still have a lot of play in them. and I have not yet figured out a way to attach the clamshell in a way that most represents the movement of the real car. 

this is the rear bumper. its still pretty crude and needs some work  

I hope that at the end you will make bodywork in just one color and that color will not be color of 4th horseman of apocalypse 

lol most of the pieces come from the landrover defender, the panels mostly come from the old mindstorm set and other various sets that had white panels, and then over the summer I bought some white panels and white flex axles and they took an awfully long time to arrive. I also got the Lambo for Christmas but I'm not ready to take that apart just to get a solid body color

I have practically completed the car here are some pics

front views, 

a look from the rear window 

under the front bonnet 

rear clamshell

rear view 

what the rear end should look like 

so ya the car is practically done. from the last post, I added the front bonnet, rear wings, HOG steering, front end. I changed the Dash and front a lot. rn I'm working on fine details and trying to fill up some ugly gaps. I have to admit tho I think the car is kinda losing the shape of the real car.pls let me know what you think, any changes I should make 

I have finally finished. I am quite happy with how it turned out however there were some minor stepbacks along the way. At first, I called this a Pagani Zonda C12 but then I realized that literally, every single Pagani is custom made and there isn't really a standard Pagani Zonda so this is my version of a Pagani Zonda. Overall the car features:

• 5+r speed manual gearbox with safe shift mechanism from @Gray Gear and slightly modified gearbox from @Leviathan
• modular chassis
• Ackerman steering geometry 
• Working steering wheel and Hand Of God steering
• full independent suspension 
• opening doors 
• opening rear Clamshell 
• opening front Bonnet/hood 
• multicolored 

Gear Ratios are as follows: 

1.  5:1
2.  3:1
3.  2.4:1
4.  1.4:1
5.  1.8:1

The Gearbox was quite a challenge because at first, I had planned on doing a 6-speed gearbox in the central column, I quickly realized that that was waaay too wide for a 1:10 scale car. I also found out that older models of the Zonda were built with 5-speed gearboxes and I wanted the car to be as realistic as possible and that was by making a 5+r gearbox. I stumbled upon Gray Gears shifting mechanism for a 6-speed transmission and safe shift mechanism which was a lot slimmer and allowed me to put the gearbox under the engine which saved tons of space. The shifting linkage for 2nd and 3rd gear or the white parts below really proved quite a challenge because I had routed the drive axle from the differential to the bottom of the car, of course, the only way to move the "middle" clutch is by having a lever under it. this meant that the middle shifting lever was already below the entire car and it still needed to be supported underneath so it wouldn't fall out. my solution was to attach an axle which the middle lever slides upon. the orange ball in the below pic shows where the axle connects with the rest of the chassis. to my surprise, this solution is sturdy and hasn't failed once. It also only lessens the suspension travel by one stud. The safe shift mechanism sticks out a bit but it keeps the "driver" from accidentally engaging more than one gear. It also allowed the clutches to use the non-ribbed connectors. The ribbed connectors made it too hard to shift gears due to the extra force needed to "snap" the clutch piece into the desired position. This also means that while "driving" it is recommended to keep your hand on the gear lever otherwise the car could slip out of gear. Here is a picture of the gearbox and linkages for shifting gears. 

Green is the safe shift mechanism. red controls gears 4 and 5. White controls gears 2 and 3. Blue controls gears 1 and reverse. 

Like the real car, I decided to build my Zonda in separate stages or better known as modular building. just like all Lego instructions, I tried to build back to front starting with the rear axle then the central column and gearbox and lastly the front axle. Most supercars and hypercars the Zonda included are built starting with the monocoque but at the start of the build, I didn't know that so my modular chassis does not really have a monocoque. Each section comes together very nicely requiring only a few pins. I tried to build the bodywork modularly as well but that just wasn't really working. the bodywork though is very sturdy though and altogether you can pick the car up by the roof or the back or the front. 

Similar to the real car, at least what I think, the steering wheel lock to lock is about 3 turns. Due to complications in space, I extended the wheel hub to give the car steering in which the inner wheel turns more than the outer wheel. I didn't do the triangle thing to see if it actually met the specifics of Ackerman steering geometry but it's close enough you get the idea. 

here is a before and after pic of what I mean 

The Real Zonda does not feature a frunk but yet for some reason unknown to me Pagani made the car have an opening bonnet/hood. And of course, it has a rear clamshell which reveals the v12 along with some storage compartments on the side. I decided not to include those side storage compartments because they ended up being too small and as a result looked really stupid when the clamshell was open. Anyways here are some more photos most of these pics are a 3d model of the car because some people don't seem to like multicolored cars. I do plan on eventually buying pieces in the correct color so that I can have a non-multicolored car but right now buying pieces from Lego is really slow, probably because of the pandemic. But I kinda like the 3d model though because it doesn't look super fake and you can also have pieces in chrome whereas you would have to go through a 3rd party to get chrome pieces. Let me know what you think. Also, how do you change your profile pic?

 

 

 

Edited March 19, 20213 yr by MY1

I hope you'll get all the bricks in the right colors. The renders do look nice, but that harlequin version is not for me